ronnie27

Attached is a picture of my HOMEBUILT, LS3 powered, C4 suspended, power everything, 1962 Corvette. No longer have the 1967, 1987,1999, or 2005. And just for the record I have never owned a gold chain or disco ball. I do however have a nice 64 Riv. Love em all.

This post is long and maybe I missed it, but have you also checked for a broken motor mount. Vibrates at 2000 rpm when not moving, vibrates upon deceleration when load on the engine is essentially reversed. A thought!

When my pump went out a couple of years ago I went to O'Reilly and got one.

The ring was there on my 64.

I'm no transmission expert but Russ's site tells you exactly which transmissions will work. Don't get the 4L60 and 4L60E confused, different transmissions. 4L60 I believe was the mechanical later version of 700R, 4L60E the electronic (computer controlled) version.

I can't wait for the article. Extremely impressed with Eric's Flicker page and the quality of his work. I guess that would fall in the category of Old World Craftsmanship.

Thanks guys, I have verified the damper is fine. Moving the spark advance has helped a whole lot. I have located a vacuum gauge to borrow to get an accurate manifold reading, but haven't had time to go get it. I am going to have to pull off the car for a couple weeks. Will get back on it then. Thanks again for who have tried to help.

Thank you, that will make things much easier. Will update on results when I get them. And I will be shopping for vacuum gauge, hopefully one that do the job and not break the bank.

EM TEE, I like this idea, but #1 is difficult to get to on an AC car. Wondering if you or someone knows which/if another piston is also at t.d.c. at the same time as #1, albeit not on the same stroke (power)?

Ok, now I understand where we r going with the inner and outer ring. Thanks. Likely will not get to this for a little while, fixing to head to the mountains for some vacation time.

Well guys here is where we are at. Since I'm about 2db from deft I advanced the timing to around 9deg. The car is running at around 650 to 700 rpm's. It shifts much smoother at the lower rpm's and doesn't tend to stall near as bad. When I hook the vacuum back to the distributor the advance moves to I'm guessing (no timing marks) to approximately 20 degree's at idle. The vacuum pressure is around 13 at this point. Let me also say I am getting this number from the F.I. controller since I don't own a vacuum gauge, can't vouch for the accuracy. Additionally as originally stated the engine was supposedly rebuilt so I also can't vouch for the originally of the cam. Unless you tell me I'm damaging something I am going to try it for a while and see what happens. Since you mentioned that possibly the balancer had moved I assume it is not keyed, is that correct? Everything seems tight and runs true. I did have a three groove balancer pulley on a big block Chevy come apart a few years ago on Hot Rod Power Tour. Thanks to three guys from Minnesota and a couple of local hot rodders I was back up and running in a couple of hours, free of charge. Thanks for all your help.

Will try and check that tomorrow. Thanks

Absolutely beautiful, I have to keep going back looking at the pictures. I love the color.

Manifold pressure, 15 in with a slight upward waver toward 15.5 at 800 to 850 rpm's. "IF" the engine is not the problem, is their anything in the transmission making it begin to pull sooner than normally expected, say 600 rpm.

Oh, by the way, nice to meet you both and thanks for the quick replies.

To respond to above, yes the problem seems to have been developing over a long period, and definitely before the FI was installed. The fuel/air ratio runs between 13.5 and 14 according to the programmer included with the FI unit. I totally agree with the vacuum theory but I can't locate any, I have actually replaced all the hoses. Distributor vacuum advance possibly or Vacuum modulator possibly? Distributor worn out, I don't know. Just a little extra info, once I'm rolling it runs and shifts fantastic.

Hi guy's, first time to post. Have been a member now for about 9 months. 64 Riviera, white. I have been reading this forum for around three years and have learned a lot, Thanks! With that said; now my question, it seems that my car has slowly been loading the engine down more and more when I first shift from park to reverse or drive. It seems to pull the rpm's down almost 400 rpm's requiring me to slowly have been increasing the idle speed to keep from stalling. The engine is strong, burns no oil, no smoke, etc. Haven't run a compression check but don't feel the need by all other symptoms. No vacuum leaks can be found. Timing is dead on. Vacuum modulator seems to work fine as far as shifting goes, (have tried running with it disconnected, definitely changes things). The engine was supposedly rebuilt around 20,000 miles ago. Had a carburetor on until recently. I now have a FiTech throttle body fuel injection installed. It can correct for the above issues to some extent but still have the root problem. Suggestions please.