Jump to content

dibarlaw

Members
  • Posts

    3,955
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by dibarlaw

  1. Brian:

    If you check back a few posts you will see that It did not sell. The "no less than $40,000" turned a lot of people off. Our impression from Tom Roberts original post was that the family was expecting around $30,000. Which from what I saw would be a reasonable high dollar figure. I gave the deceased owner's brother a near offer. Providing I could test it out first to my satisfaction. Also would have to sell both my 1925-25 and my 1937-41 if I could get it.

    They did have a time getting it started. (sitting a while). The fellow who drove it 25 feet out of the garage looked truely terrified at trying to drive it. I could also understand somewhat of the auctioneers negativity after losing a nice commission from the no sale. I know our local auction house charges 30% plus 10% buyers premium on all their estate sales. I know there is usually a smaller % on big dollar items or real estate, sometimes 7-10%. So at $30,000 he could have made at least $2,100 for 10 min work.

    When they reluctantly dropped the starting bid down to $20,000 (still stateing that they would not accept less than $40K) there was only one bidder.... Me. And the auctioneer even raised my own bid to $21,000! But still it was good to meet some fellow car guys. I did take some pictures as to how the brake switch was set up and how they did the tail/turn/brake lights.

    Larry

  2. Mike :

    I responded to your other post but I believed I solved my 25's "doggieness in 3rd". I could move the distributor about .060 from side to side also the shaft was just as sloppy. I bought a cast iron 1924 ? distributor at an auction last week and rebuilt it. Still had .003 tolerance on the shaft. When I pulled my die cast distributor there was a steel sleeve

    pressed over the lower casting with no provision to lube the shaft or it's bearing. (The grease I put into the fitting prior went nowhere). Close to .015 side play. The lower shaft casting was broken from the body. Also the cetrifugal advance plate was missing a spring and one not connected! It is amazing that I could get it to run at all!

    Dropped the rebulit unit in and retimed and now all is well on the ignition side!

    Larry DiBarry

  3. Mike:

    You should be able to get the Graphite type rope packing at an old line type hardware/plumbing store. 3/16 dia should be good. "BOB's Automobilia" in California can set you up with points wire sets etc.(I made up my own). Since the 9mm type they sell was impossible to fit into my spark plug cover. And the boots were for 7mm (very old stock as they were not flexible and split. But you may have to call as the 1924-25 point set do not show a price "inquire"(should be same for 23. Also sells the packing but not the same as the original design.

    Great to hear that another 23-54 is up and running. Last year we drove up to Vermont to buy one but the deal fell thru.I do have pictures of that car if you need some refrence.

    Send us some pictures !

    Larry DiBarry

  4. Well this is what I have done to the 37 to locate the trouble this week. I made up an adapter for a NOS Delco Remy regulator #5592. 90 deg off from my #5807. It has the same specs as shown in the Jan 1937 Delco Remy service manual. And is for negative ground. I hooked it up and the ammeter then pegged discharge...So I quickly disconnected then reinstalled my #5807. Same reaction... pegs charge for about 1min then starts to swing wildly then lands on 0 for a while then pegs discharge then 0. I removed the engine groundstrap, cleaned all contact points and reinstalled. I tried another coil. All same reaction.

    Could the vacuum starter switch be a cause? I have had to jiggle the lever on top at times when it did not make good contact. to engage the starter. My next stop will be the generator. There were some issues noted in the 37 Buick service buletins. Again it was "rebuilt "20 years ago an only put back into service in Aug. Don't know if it was ever repolarized.

    Larry

  5. My question is about the compatability of the Delco starter/generator distributor from a big series 1924 to standard series 1925. I bought a spare distributor at auction on saturday. The case from the auction unit is a cast iron and no noticable side play on the shaft. The case in my 25-25 is die cast but not cracked or deformed yet the shaft can be moved over .036. and the whole unit can be rocked at least the same.

    About 70 degrees yesterday in south centeral Pa. We took "Beuhla" to church and a few miles drive afterward. Did not seem to be running right. Thought to run out some more fuel before the winter drain down. I checked and should still have about 2 gallons. So I checked the points and were showing burning. I stoned them and tried to readjust. But the distributor shaft is very worn. When running I can press against the side of the unit with slight presure and just about stop the engine. So on the winter list is to rebush the shaft. Then the wife and I drove over to see another Buick Club member who has a yet to be restored 1924-45 touring car and show what I have done to my 25. Drove back home and parked in back of my house. Cleaned up the garage then went to drive the 25 around the block. Started right up but only made it about 1/2 way around the block when it died!

    Got out the gas can and added more fuel. After about 6 tries she finally started but ran very rough. It did make it back into the garage under it's own power. The winter list gets longer.

    Larry<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

  6. About 70 degrees yesterday in south centeral Pa. We took "Beuhla" to church and a few miles drive afterward. Did not seem to be running right. Thought to run out some more fuel before the winter drain down. I checked and should still have about 2 gallons. So I checked the points and were showing burning. I stoned them and tried to readjust. But the distributor shaft is very worn. When running I can press against the side of the unit with slight presure and just about stop the engine. So on the winter list is to rebush the shaft. Then the wife and I drove over to see another Buick Club member who has a yet to be restored 1924-45 touring car and show what I have done to my 25. Drove back home and parked in back of my house. Cleaned up the garage then went to drive the 25 around the block. Started right up but only made it about 1/2 way around the block when it died!

    Got out the gas can and added more fuel. After about 6 tries she finally started but ran verry rough. It did make it back into the garage under it's own power. The winter list gets longer.

    Larry

  7. Just an up date on the 1924-45. I met with Tom Roberts at the auction for the car in western Pa. We had a great conversation. Quite a gentelman. The car is realy in nice condition. Definately not a # 1 but a well set up tour car with many modifications. Closer to a slightly degraded #2. The auctioneer listed it as STSA. (Subject To Sellers Approval. When the time to sell arrived he announced they would not accept less than $40,000! Needless to say there were no bids. So at this time it was not sold. I did make the seller an offer but don't believe he would consider it. ( I would still have to liquidate my car to buy it!) There was no statement about a reserve on the parts. But when they came up they also put a reserve on them. My thought was that they would offer the parts first to the buyer of the car. They later did sell all of the parts to another BCA member. Hooray! All I was able to buy was a distributor and a Complete Buick History Book. The family member indicated that if they couldn't get their price. He would buy it. Of course all the spare parts are now gone. Thank goodness to a member who can use them. At first when no one would bid at the reserve price the auctioneer said they will probably get that much for scrap!!! After my fiasco with the E-Bay 1925 standard parts that went to scrap because no one contacted them to pay I really was upset with the auctioneers attitude.

    Such is life I guess.

    Larry

  8. Jeff:

    The shop also put in a new Interstate battery. Now 5 months old. Specific gravity about 1300 and reads full charge. It is hard to tell if there is a short as the ammeter shows a slight discharge even with the battery disconnected. Just below the zero point.

    I know about Gremblins!! My 1987 S-10 right side turn signals went out. The first thing I checked were the operation of all the light bulbs. All stops, park and flashers worked. So both filaments on the 1157s were OK?? I invested in a new switch. then spent a day making up pullers etc to tear apart the steering column. Replaced..what a nightmare! STILL DID NOT WORK!! Re checked the rear tail again.. BAD BULB! Then this past week my 1925-25 Buick's combination switch was throwing the breaker on the lighting side. I had rebuilt the switch last spring. So again checked the bulbs all showed ok. Tore out switch again took off one lead at a time on the switch till the breaker stopped tripping. Lead #4 Tail light! Pulled out the bulb which cheked ok. Replaced with new one and problem solved!!. Both defective bulbs would light on both filaments when voltage applied. But there was a high resistance short within the bulb itself.

    GREMBLINS!

    larry

  9. Dave:

    I am looking for 1925 Buick parts..

    Robe Rail. see photo.

    Touring car Top irons and retangular rear window frame. First see if you have any then I can send photos and dimensions.

    Top rests. see photo.

    Delco starter generator D-283 if you have one I can then send more details.

    Tail lights with Buick logo on vertical plate.

    Larry post-79073-143139248123_thumb.jpg

    post-79073-143139248111_thumb.jpg

    post-79073-143139248117_thumb.jpg

    post-79073-143139248127_thumb.jpg

  10. After my 37 came back from the shop doing the driver restoration it was found that there was a battery drain. They had to know about it since after it was pulled into my garage the father told the son to be shure to disconnect the battery. After the final payment they left and I took it for a short drive. All seemed well about a 3 mile trip had my wife join me and took off again for a little further drive. This time on the return trip while waiting at a red light I noticed that the ammeter was swinging wildly and the engine stopped. I tried to restart but the battery barely growled...DEAD. Thank God for some good semeritans to help push us out of the busiest intersection during rush hour. When I towed it back home and after calming down,(that took about a week)! I checked battery ..GOOD but manny connections were loose. They installed New complete wiring harness from Road Island Wiring. The cable to starter nut I could remove with my fingers! I did an all around checking schematics/wiring diagrams and retightening. I thought I would try again. Takes about 6 pumps to get enough fuel to start. But it starts right up without excessive starter work. They were reluctant to do any further work on the carb (a "MARVEL") since Jim Alexandro rebuilt it 20 years ago and was just put on. Citing throttle shaft leakage and accelerator pump seals as them not able to get it to run any smoother. The starter and generator were rebuild 20 years ago also and were just put into service.

    This is what it's doing.

    At start up, fast idle, the ammeter shows full charge. Within 2 min meter flutters and drops to 0.

    What I have done

    I replaced the 30 year plus old plug wires. Several were pinched badly in the cover.

    Saw that the coil polarity was reversed. Fixed.

    Also starter leads incorrectly placed. Fixed.

    Adjusted points to .015 they were about .019.

    Removed the original 5 terminal voltage regulator and cleaned contacts. Insulated selonoid lead (showed burned) was touching resistor. Repaired.

    I reinstalled the regulator and is still doin the same thing. No inprovement in running

    I have annother similar NOS 5 terminal Delco regulator just about identical except mounting is 90 deg off. When I removed the resistor on my original unit it checks at aprox 13 ohms same as the NOS one. When resistor is remounted in unit it shows 1-2 ohms. The NOS still shows 13 ohms.

    Could this be the problem or possibly the coil ?

    Larry

  11. Tom:

    Please try to get some photos that open. When I was searching for "a driver Buick" I found a few downdraft conversions. And even though the cars may have looked very nice. Some of the "jury rigging"may leave you with an expensive fix to be a good driver. The photos show some nice extras. Two tail lights are not original but better for people following. If they are set up as brake lights. I still haven't set up my 1925-25 for brake lights yet. My 25 starts easily and runs OK. 4 wheel brakes are a plus and are very good if they are set up and maintained. The reverse shift and double clutching took about an afternoon to master. This only works if you don't have a sticking clutch like mine. So my car still has some drivability issues. I have probably spent an additional $1,500 on parts and repairs (except for the radiator,with me doing all the work) but still is not what I would call a reliable driver. But after a year of working on it we seem to be making friends. 30K seems overly optimistic in this market. High quality accurate restorations can still bring good money. But driver quality cars with modifications go for much less.

    I will would love to help with my experiences if you are close enough. I am in Chambersburg. There is another BCA member in our town with a 1924-45 but it is still along way to being on the road. BCA member Don Bowman in Williamsport MD. also has a model 45 with an older restoration.

    Send a PM or e-mail if interested.

    Larry DiBarry

  12. Tom:.

    The 1924-45 was available only in black. Can't tell any more since we can't open an enlarge the photos. 2 years ago there was a 24-45 in like condition at auction, Millersburg Pa. I dropped out at $16,500 and it sold for $18,000. The purchacer said he has already put in annother $5K and at last contact it was still not on the road.

    Larry

  13. Just to update on the wheels, rims and tires. The seller said that since no one contacted him or sent a payment he took all the parts to scrap. I was late in getting in my bids and saw that the items were sold. When I called about possibly buying the rest of the wheels he said he took all to scrap friday morning. Got $158 for all. Including axles, rebuilt engine with transmission. Even asked to call the scrap yard but he said they "chunk it all up as you bring it in".

    I thought this forum was a place where we could help each other!

    Larry

  14. While out viewing the leaves along old route 40 in Maryland we came across this at Town Hill Bed & Breakfast. About 16 miles west of Hancok Maryland at the sumit of Town Hill. No phone # but is on the same property as the B&B. According to the sign it was in the barn since 1959 . Looks very solid. If it was a Buick Super I would be all over it. Hope some one will save it!

    post-79073-143139226162_thumb.jpg

    As I just lost many good parts for my 1925 Buick from an e-bay seller who didn't get paid for the parts by the high bidders! Took all to scrap! Even had the rebuilt engine broken up!

    Someone please save this forlorn Pontiac!

    Larry

    post-79073-143139226132_thumb.jpg

    post-79073-14313922614_thumb.jpg

    post-79073-143139226145_thumb.jpg

    post-79073-143139226152_thumb.jpg

    post-79073-143139226157_thumb.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...