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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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I would love to get out with my 25 Buick but still have to get the brakes finished. Just got the rivets today to install the scrubbed and countersunk external band lining. (Some one had driven in copper plated steel split rivets).
Originally just needed to replace the leaking rear seal!
Larry
1925 Buick-25
1937 Buick-41
1987 Chevy S-10
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The 4-4 1/2 rivets arrived today and have the countersunk lining riveted on. The small bench mount press (PLYMOTH) takes a lot of muscle to get a good set. I also turned a setting punch to finish off the set, getting a better form.
I thought I bought brass rivets, but turned out to be annodized steel. Little harder to set than the few brass ones I had to do the short lining.
Larry
1925 -25
1937-41
1987-S-10
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Pete:
Don't know if mine will need replacing in my 1937 Special. The resto shop had only done the radiator. No verdict on the heater core yet. If the contact on the Chevy truck comes thru I could take the other if compatable.
"Of course it should be good. The thing put out great heat when I drove it home!" In Feb 1987!!!!
Larry
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My restoration fellow is still looking for good formulas for #510 Hampton Gray and Carteret Red. A close match will be fine. Never will be a show car.
Larry
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Thanks Marty:
I had to save the picture so I could zoom in to see if it was 2 or 3 stripes. Shows 3.
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Thanks Grant. I forwarded the photos to the shop. I think the wheels that are on the car still have some stripes. But they are 39-?wheels I bought a rough set of 1937 wheels that I had sandblasted and recoated. These are the ones to be repainted.
Larry
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Just went to the Judging manual and #510 Hampton gray uses Carteret Red stripes. Now just need a shade comparison or formula.
Larry
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My 1937-41 is in the shop getting ready for the National. I asked them to paint and stripe the wheels. I sent them 20 years of the "Torque Tube" magazine with the topics earmarked for reference. With the stripe form and spacing as well as the color. They have not found that info. As the car is 1 1/2 hours away I can't look at the ID plate. I believe it is #510 Hampton Gray? The wheels are to be body color. What is the red for striping? Mixing formulas?
Larry DiBarry
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Dave:
I would first remove the combination switch. Carefully marking the positions of the connections. Then clean the contacts of the multi-contact switch well.
In the start position you should should have a current drain and hear a faint
chattering sound. (Rattelsnake). That indicates the starter is in operational
mode. Once the engine starts it automaticly dissengages the starting circuit.
The switch on my 1925-25 is quite "finniky". I usually have to hunt around for a sweet spot to hear the rattel
Larry DiBarry
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Have the new lining riveted to the E brake band. I had to make up some copper rivets on the lathe for the ends. Drilled and countersunk all. Then put 6-32 screws in to hold as I worked around. After school I went to a local old line hardware store. (Service department to work on small gas engines etc.) Where they let me use their rivet machine. Now 3 more wheels!
Larry
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Mark :
So sorry about your luck. I was hoping to finally participate in a meet this year. But with the 1925 laid up with brake problems. We were looking forward to the national with our 1937. The restoration shop promised to have it ready to drive several weeks before to do some trial runs first. When I visited them
on April 10 th we agreed to get a new wiring harness. Yesterdays E-mail now
informed that they haddn't sent for one yet . 4 week lead time. So they would not have it ready for the national. Upset dosen't cover for me.
Feel your pain...
Larry
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Well the 36" lining sent was clamped /stretched tightly and came up 1" short.
I then asked them to then send one piece 76" long and I would cut it myself.
Well that's what it said on the invoice when the new lining arrived friday. But measured at 74"!
I will have to be carefull!
Larry
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I will probably be using local roads. I don't want to push the 37 on it's first big trip in over 25 years.
Larry
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At this point we are planning to go. If my 1937-41 is roadworthy by then. I plan to drive it to the meet. Penn Dutch Restorations has promised. I asked the wife about the after tour and not much appealed to either of us.
Larry DiBarry
1925-25
1937-41
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Nice progress report Mark. I thought that I was the only one with a "Boss Redhead" But she barely tolerates our 2 Buicks.
Larry
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Another set back with my car. I thought I gave correct information on the outside diameter of the e-brake band (35 1/2"). Which would be the inside diameter of the lining. I asked for a few inches more than 6' and I would cut to fit exactly They just cut 2 - 36" lengths (outside diameter) now they are both 1 1/2" short. It seems that I just can't get ahead with my 25.
Larry
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In the Buick Technical tips. Published by The BCA on pages 159-160 shows the process of having one machined. I remember in the mid 1980s Bugles having ads showing a complete ready to install unit. Don't know anyone who still has any of these. I also had a thread on the forum back last winter about how I did mine.
Larry
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Tom:
Thank you for shareing. It is great to see some of these early survivors.
Tried to purchase a similar 1912 Buick at Hershey. But as always a day late and a dollar short.
Larry
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Phil:
The Model 45 master is a good deal larger than the standards. And the 2 side and quarter windows would not fit. Even so they would be for the enclosed Standard touring. Anyone I have asked is doing the same as you. Turning them into a collapsable top touring car.
Good luck with your restoration. And keep us posted.
Larry
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Larry S:
I bought the felt seals from "BOB's" And made my own gaskets. Now trying to find someone local near Chambersburg to get linings and rivets from.
Larry DiBarry
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Unless it is worn excessively it should just need oil added. I made new bearings for mine. 1925 -25 Touring.
Larry
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Wow Dave!
Looked to be a 1924 Master sedan. The Photo credits called them both Model Ts? Could you ID the remanents of the blue touring car?
Larry
24-35 differential adjustment?
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
rwolf:
This may be similar to your 1924-35. On my 1924-25. Since only 1/4 lining was available. I had to lay out the new lining and grind off 1/16 to fit inside the drum. Also make shure you block (shim) up the wheel off the floor. Needs to go on straight. Especially after I installed a new seal and slinger gasket. Really had to fight getting it to go on. My axle taper was a little chewed up but the key fit well. Check out my thread " Brake Work.
Good luck
Larry"