dibarlaw
-
Posts
3,945 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by dibarlaw
-
-
Tried to take the 1925-25 out to take some snow pictures in front of our house.
It did not want to go far from its snug garage. The 5.00/5.25X21" Dunlops don't
go in the snow!
-
One commentator tonight stated that you did not need to have big money to bid on cars at Barret-Jackson many sell for as low as $3000. To be able to enjoy on a "BEER Budget' Not a Champaigne budget"!??
Larry
-
I know the lenses don't look right. And not shure of what the 1926s are to look like. So I sent you pictures to check out. I still am having problems posting photos here.
Larry
-
Pair of I believe a set 1927 lights with an extra set of Liberty lenses. They are in fair condition but do need restored. Asking $100.plus shipping. The gentelman I am listing this for is in Lakeland,MN. Just bought a set of bumpers from him and was great to work with.
Contact me by E-mail and I can attach Photos.
Larry DiBarry
717-263-3804
-
Who does this resilvering service in the Pa. area? I know the Austraian fellows have said to go to their local Trophy shop. Don't think that will work around here. My 1925 is well polished down to brass.
Larry
-
If you e-mail I can send some photos of mine on my 1925-25 which does seem to be correct and functions well.
Larry
-
My wife and I saw the War Horse yesterday also. Wonderful film!!! Thanks for the ID on the Vauxhaul. The model T truck did bother me just because it was much newer than the time period. The wars beginning--- 1914 the T truck 1920s. The curse of loving old cars and movies. I know my wife hates my commenting. Also when the scene is to be the 1929 stock market crash and they show a 1938 Zenith console radio for a news broadcast. The Jonny Depp "Dillinger" most cars newer than time period.
Larry
-
Ben:
I have just secured the modern equivilent of "steam cylinder oil" the 600W
now is ISO VG 680 I am trying to secure more for some of the other car colectors locally. Particularlly for Model "A" Fords. I just asked the steam engine club where they got theirs. Hopefully this will solve my "crunching" in my 1925-25.
Larry
-
I agree with Lief to go to the Buick site and give more information. Is the car a master or standard coupe and model number.
Larry
1925-25
-
Sent PM. I will gheck if they are adaptable to my 1925 Buick-25. I think they would look great on the front. The rear may or may not be a problem with the spare. Most applications I have seen are seperate left and right segments for the rear.
Larry
-
Lief:
Thank you for posting the photos of Lenhardt's beautiful 27-25. I have a 25-25 and have been asking in the forum for interior and top photos since my interior is pretty bare. Nothing has shown up yet. Missing robe rail carpeting and foot rest and bow rests. The photos in the parts book are very poor and nothing on the bow rest. The pictures are great! They will help a great deal. Also I believe my top assembly is made up from another (larger) car as it apears to have been cut and rewelded.
Larry DiBarry
-
I replied to your E-mail this morning but it kicked it back.
Don't exactly know what is required in the 27s. But just went thru the service manual for my 25. Steam cylinder oil for transmission, differential and steering box. Should not be a problem in Florida weather. In winter the manual states transmission application to mix 50/50with engine oil. One of my problems is that I can't start in neutral /won't go ito gear. If I start in gear with the clutch depressed once running shifting is no problem. One recomendation was that I used the 600W steam cylinder oil. Model "A" and"T" Fords use this also. Slows the gears enough to get the initial shift. Also this lubricant is much kinder to all those bronze bushings in our machines.
Tell me more about your 27. We were trying to buy a 27 model 54 sport roadster last July out of Ohio. Still for sale I believe. Also run these questions over on the Buick Pre War Fourm you will get better answers.
Larry
-
I have a 1925 Buick Standard Touring car. And reciently went looking for the 600W "steam cylinder oil" as called for in our manuals. Checked local tractor supply places here in south central Pa.They didn't have any but I got leads to the Steam Engine clubs and that lead to an old line distributor outside of Harrisburg Pa. 5gal @ $48.00 plus something for the governor. Then my son who drives truck to well drilling sites outside of Indiana Pa. Said it was no problem finding it around the pumping sites. I should have 5 gal from him on monday. We will see what it is like. If you wish, send a PM or e-mail and I can get you a number for the Harrisburg supplier.
-
Still trying to find former owners of my 1925 Buick standard. Would like to know what was done to it when it was brought back to life in the 1970s. I bought it from a New York owner who had it aprox.10 years. He remembered it comming from Wisconsin. Any one out there remember some one having a 25-25 with burgandy paint, black fenders and wheels,tan top and blackwall tires(tires may be that old).
Help!
Larry
Chambersburg Pa
1925 Buick-25
1937 Buick-41
1987 Chevy S-10
-
John:
I have plenty of rope packing for the water pump. Thanks anyway. I take care of that each time I run the engine and made up some wrenches for that purpose. I will have to make a new shaft as it is pretty well scored. The flow I refered to was oil from the shaft suport bearing between the water pump and the DELCO unit. There is always a trickle of oil while running the engine. Also thank you for the top hardware link. Now just need pictiures to see what the bow rest is to look like.
Larry
-
Still trying to drive my Buick:( The radiator has been boiled out, I back flushed the block. Now it runs cool. The next issue was the oil slinging fan hub. Which I rebuilt and made new bearings for. Also made a new leather belt. Made new gasket for pushrod cover which slowed down the amount of oil leaks. But still leaks well between cylinder block and crankcase. Also the starter-generator water pump shaft bearing has a steady flow from it. Any Ideas how to stop that leak? I have secured a supplier for the 600W "Steam Cylinder Oil" for the transmission and will pick up saturday. Met with a fellow about 1 1/2 miles away with an unrestored 1924 model 45 and compared notes. He gave me a crank that did not fit his car. But it fit mine perfectly!
Well last sunday, (since it was finally properly insured) I thought I would take it for a short drive. This time it reluctantly started and drove about 50 feet where it stopped and wouldn't start again. Keeps flooding.. The elec fuel pump is set at lowest output.(Planned to restore the vacuum tank this winter).I had to tow it back to my garage with my 87 Chevy S-10 and push it back in the garage. Boy is it heavy! Glad none of the neighbors were out...
How humiliating!
Larry<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
-
Still trying to drive my Buick:( The radiator has been boiled out, I back flushed the block. Now it runs cool. The next issue was the oil slinging fan hub. Which I rebuilt and made new bearings for. Also made a new leather belt. Made new gasket for pushrod cover which slowed down the amount of oil leaks. But still leaks well between cylinder block and crankcase. Also the starter-generator water pump shaft bearing has a steady flow from it. Any Ideas how to stop that leak? I have secured a supplier for the 600W "Steam Cylinder Oil" for the transmission and will pick up saturday. Met with a fellow about 1 1/2 miles away with an unrestored 1924 model 45 and compared notes. He gave me a crank that did not fit his car. But it fit mine perfectly!
Well last sunday, (since it was finally properly insured) I thought I would take it for a short drive. This time it reluctantly started and drove about 50 feet where it stopped and wouldn't start again. Keeps flooding.. The elec fuel pump is set at lowest output.(Planned to restore the vacuum tank this winter).I had to tow it back to my garage with my 87 Chevy S-10 and push it back in the garage. Boy is it heavy! Glad none of the neighbors were out...
How humiliating!
Larry
-
I did dissasemble mine, bored out the ends and pressed in bronze sleeve bearings. Then bored out to fit the shaft +.002. Made a cork gasket for the shaft end. Repainted , resealed then 1/4 full of gear oil rather than engine oil.
So far it's spinning not slinging! Also made up a new leather belt.
The next task is to secure the 600W oil and change out what is in the trans.
to see if that solves the"creeping " start situation.
Larry
-
A great resource of technical info can be had on Google patents. # 1,743,712.
The only info on the hub was Automotive Fan & Bearing Co. and 2 patent dates. I did a search with this much and now have patent drawings and full documentation on operation. My hub was filled with grease (to be aprox 1/3 full with engine oil) which was pretty solid untill things got warm. Then oil was leaking around the fan to hub face
gasket soaking the belt. None was leaking at the rear even there was no seal!
The solid grease plugged the oil holes/grooves. I believe the tollerance should be about .005 since the shaft is .745 its entire length. That is if the bore on the bearing was originally.750, it is now .755. Debated about boreing out the ends and inserting bushings and then line bore them both for a closser fit to the shaft. Then check with my local electric motor rebuilder for an adaptable
end seal or make my own out of "compressible cork" as the patent calls for.
Or make up the" Buick Technical tips" solid hub with sealed bearings.
Thoughts/any advice?
Larry
-
Today we wrestled the radiator back on the 1925-25. The correct shell mounting bolts made it a bit easier. I ran it at idle for about 20 min. kept it's cool! :)Now to concentrate on the ever lengthening list of things to address. Also made a new gasket for the front push rod cover. One leak out of many taken care of. I guess next is to take care of the oil slinging fan pulley hub. Before I ruin another leather fan belt. I believe there was someone selling the sealed bearing kit. I will check with the parts people. I have to work on the parking brake to get it to hold. Would like to talk with other 1925-25 owners to see if they have restoration photos of what the top bow saddle looks like so I can fabricate them. We would like to drive with the top down by next spring.
-
My problem with my 1925-25 is that I have the key and it locks/unlocks. But I am afraid it will break to try and remove it.
Good Luck!
Larry
-
Dwight:
Labrandi's did my 37-41 bumpers and bumperetts over 3 years ago which were not in bad shape. $1,650!!! I am repainting my 25-25 radiator shell with
3 coats of Mastermark silver primer wet- block sanding and respraying in a nickel/chrome like enamel. After all its to be a driver.
Larry in Chambersburg
-
Radiator cooked out. The radiator guy said there was some crud. Mostly lime scale. I backflushed the engine with high pressure and got about a handfull of the same stuff. Now have to repaint and reinstall. Since the shell was painted silver I have been building up the pitted surface with the Mastermark silver primer then I will respray with a nickel tone paint. Spent $1650 getting my 37's
bumpers and guards done 3 years ago. Ouch! Don't feel it would be a worth while investment to have the shell re-nickeled.
Would like to find a set of period bumpers for the 25 though.
Larry
-
I asked before if you had a leather belt for a 1925 Buick Standard "6".
33 1/2"
Larry
Help needed for Haynes Apperson
in General Discussion
Posted
Alan :
Great find! I will check around too. Would like to come over and see what you have. I am over the mountain in Chambersburg. I have a 1925 Buick Touring.
Larry