dibarlaw
-
Posts
3,955 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by dibarlaw
-
-
Bold One:
Post the same question on the Buick Club forum and you should get some answers. Or do a search of that forum about 1924 or 25 water pumps
Larry
-
rhead:
If you want to see what the 1925 model 24 roadster looked like before it was cut up. Go to Google and search 1925 Buick images. It shows as light green body parts assembled to approxamate positions. Other pictures shown. Was for sale as a RAT ROD around $1,800 at the time. I checked the buick specs. And for your car it looks like you should have 23" rims. You did not respond to my PM so I guess the rest of the wheels are gone.
Larry
-
rhead:
I also spoke to him about the bumpers since the spare tire carrier showed brackets. (I bought a set of bumpers for mine). If I wanted them to make an offer since he is planning to cut them up because of the flat plate to fabricate stuff.
Larry
-
rhead:
Glad to see your on your way with the 25-48. I was planning on bidding on the same rims for my 25-25, and all the rest but was distracted and forgot to get my bids in. My take on the rims is that they are 21" since the tires shown are 5.00 5.25X21 and for standard series 1926 thru 1928. Rims for our cars should be 22". But mine were changed to 21"years ago. So I could use these. Not quite shure what your master series takes.
I would like to have the rest that you don't need. I wanted them for the rim bolts and brake drums. When I made inquireries the poster refered me to the owner. The owner said that he had gotten it from Alabama. The previous owner had partialy restored the frame and dissasembled the rest then died of a heart attack. He bought all the rest to HOT ROD the roadster. I guess he didn't care to get the other accessories missing from the car and engine. He asked me if I could find him a windshield frame. I also asked if I could make offers on the items that didn't get a bid. No word yet. From the pictures he looks to be more skilled at using a cutting torch than a wrench!
Larry
-
1
-
-
Dave:
Just like you I had planned to connect with some other BCA and Forum people. Too massive a place and too little time. I did meet up with Dick and Karen Beckley. Dick is director of our Mason Dixon Chapter. My favorites....
Dick's 1937 Roadmaster Phaeton. I am a 37 owner.
The 1925 Md 45. Touring I have a 1925-25
1908 Md. 17 Touring I have always wanted to drive a big brass era Buick.
My runners up would be the same as you stated.
Great Day!
Larry DiBarry
-
2- 10" Dia X 5 7/8" deep. American Flatlite Standard. Don't know what they go to. $100.00 OBO for the pair. Glass Bulbs & reflectors very good. Very minor dings on rims which would need replated. Buckets show rust but no holes.
Larry
-
2 NOS 5.50-5.25 X17" GENERAL tires. Great condition. May be pre war. Great for period looking spares. Or if you have a tire display holders. $75.00 for pair. Could deliver to Hershey on saturday.
Larry
-
1 left rear has Chrysler Corp. tag.#1-NO.872953. 55" Lg. 25 1/2" high. 1 right rear# 1303 386. 55 3/4" Lg. 26"high. Both have storage scratches
and light surface rust. $50.00 each. I am about 1 Hr. south of Hershey. I could deliver to show on saturday.
Larry
-
Jared:
Reading all the posts I readily concur with the opinions given. I had done the same as you except my infatuation with antique cars started close to 50 years ago. To my family I was the crazy 7 year old who had just seen Disney's "Absent Minded Professor". Now believing all antique cars were magical and could fly! Memorizing information in the "American Heritage" antique car postcard collection. (I still have them) Only dreaming some day I could have an antique car to drive. To me at this time antique ment pre-1930.
Pleaded with my parents to let me buy everything from a 1916 Model"T" to a 1924 Chrysler. In 1971 I bought a one owner, well kept 1937 IHC pick-up. I spent the next year ruining it because of my lack of skill, lack of space and lack of money. (I hope it is in a better place). My start with Buick came in 1973 as a $750.00, 1938 brush-painted Special, including mismatched size tires(also painted white walls). All my fathers mechanic friends tried to talk me out of the Buick since no one would work on it and parts would never be found. Sold it to a fellow near Pittsburgh. I hope it is still around.
After school, jobs, marrage, family etc. I had the "itch" come back in 1987 and bought my 1937 Special. After blowing the clutch on the drive home from Altoona Pa. I took on all the repairs myself and quickly became overwelmed! I picked at it for the next 25 years. All this time not enjoying driving an antique car. Last October My wife and I decided to buy another Buick to drive and finaly enjoy while I got back to the 37.(see thread "looking for a driver Buick") When the call went out for 1937s at the Buick nationals, we contracted to get the 37 finished up as a driver. Finaly we would participate in club activities! The shop promised to have it able to be driven to the meet. As mentioned in other threads the cost was over double what we budgeted, and double what the car could be worth. The cost was only directed to reliable driveability. No internal engine work. Brake system rebuilt, front end, fuel system redone, radiator and new wiring harness. No glass, no chrome, no uhpolstery work.The only cosmetics were 2 patches and closing up the 1" holes cut for turn signals and the wheels being repainted, since I was assuming to drive to North Carolina and new tires were in order. (If my "ship would come in" I could repaint the car later). This would have been great if only they had it done when promised. It was just delivered 2 weeks ago and driveability is still an issue.
In hind sight I should have posed questions as you have first then use the good advice from the experienced people here on the forum.
Now
back to picking at it myself.Larry
-
I had purchaced a 1925 Buick model 25 as a driver last October and by this summer we have gotten most of the "gremblins" taken care of. But I have had it stop on me 3 times.
Each time it was fuel related or more specificely lack thereof. My good wife had to tow us home twice, the last not more than 3 blocks from home garage. I have the tow straps always at the ready... We reciently had our 1937 Buick done up as a "DRIVER "restoration. We committed to this facillity because of their promise to have it able to be driven reliably to the 2012 Buick nationals in Concord NC at the end of June. Well it was delivered on Sept 17th with still some "tweaking" to be done. But we were assured once started
it ran and drove fine. Within an hour of writing final payment check several good Symeritans were pushing the car with my wife and I out of a busy intersection. The engine just quit and the battery was dead. My wife walked back home aprox.a mile. She returned with our 2008 KIA Rondo not even thinking that It couldn't provide a "jump" for the 6 volt Buick or that it could be a tow vehicle. Not that it was her fault about this oversight it was just that I was too upset to provide coherant instructions. I drove the Kia back to get my 1987 S-10 (it has actual bumpers)! I had to search the garage looking for the tow straps. I then remembered that they were under the front seat of the 1925. My neighbor and I came back to hook up the 1937 and tow it home just as evening was turning to dusk. Back at my garage my wife and 2 neighbors pushed the Buick back in the garage till we can investigate how much "tweaking" this car will need.
Larry
-
Thanks Joe I was wondering when the next installment of your adventure would appear. I have really enjoyed the descriptions of the meticulous work you have done.
When can we sign up for a ride?
Larry
-
Keith:
Sorry to hear that your dad is not doing well. We realy had a grand time with him. John and I had hoped that he would be able to get the 22 brought back. I believe we speculated on the possible cost of doing the required work. Our thoughts originally were in the $1,500.00 range. That was for removing the fuel system, cleaning, rebuilding the carb, removing valve cages to do a valve job and new wires etc. We could not check the condition of the radiator and the rest of the cooling system. (My 1925-25 radiator work cost over $1,000.) And since we didn't get it running we could not check drivability issues. I know it needed tires. Not cheap! After my experience with the shop doing a "DRIVER RESTORATION" on my 1937 I would multiply that $1,500 estimate by at least 3. Not that I didn't have the value of the work delivered. It was just that my estimation was way below reality. I should have plugged along on my own.
My take on it would be to try to sell it "as is" and let the new owner deal with the issues. You may be putting $4,000 in it to get very little added value. Unfortunately once these cars are left to degrade value drops quickly. I know! I now have double in my 1937-41 than it would ever be worth. And I still have to do more work to make it driveable.
My 2cents!
Larry
-
Big Dog:
Thanks for saving me the trouble of posting this querry. My 37 special just came back from the shop for a driver restoration and is doing the same thing. All new wiring harness. They said that it seemed that it gave a bit of a shock when touching the horn button/ring?(one spoke was broken). To me that would indicate a dead short at times. They did put in a new horn relay. They also had the battery disconnected while in transit (2hr). Reconnected battery, then cranking over much slower than I remember. Engine starts and runs very well. It was put in the garage and they disconnected the battery again. (I know...I know I should have asked, ..why?). Later I reconnected the battery and fired it up to take a short drive. Got to drive it for the first time in 25 years!! It ran and drove very well. Till we stopped at a red light and it just shut off. Battery dead! Had to tow it home! We will have to keep tweaking. Get out my meter and start checking for those shorts.
Larry
-
I plan to be there at least for the show on saturday. Would like to be there for thursday to flea market to seek out stuff for the 25-25 and 37-41. I can't leave school till 3:00. It is a shame how a job can get in the way of one's hobbies. But I had hoped to get the 1937 Special back in time to register for the driver class but it just was delivered last night. (Was promised to be ready to drive to the BCA national in June.) The shop said all the heavy lifting has been done and it would just need some tweaking! Took it out for a short drive aprox 3 miles... had to tow it back home!! Just quit at a red light. When I tried to restart battery was dead!! But the Hampton Gray wheels are pretty!
Not Happy.
Larry
-
Drove the 25 Buick downtown to farmers market, to breakfast, to some yard sales then out for a country drive About 10 miles round trip. Still finding things to deal with. Overheating issue is being minimized since there was hardly a pump shaft or overflow drip till we returned home. Motometer showed normal driving temp. Still having an oil slinging problem. Not from fan hub since there are now sealed bearings installed. Looks like I will need to take care of the front pully seal on the timing cover. Belt is oil soaked and fan is slipping. Now that the engine had a chance to actually get hot the oil pressure dropped to 10lbs. Charge is still good. Only inconvience was with the top down and the car traveling at the blinding speed of 45 mph, the folded top, even strapped down to my home made top rests wants to act as a parachute. Had to stop to refold top and tighten the straps. Of course one strap broke.
Larry
-
This is an update on my 1937 still at the shop, about the fuel pump and carb situation. The rebuilt AC pump I sent down to them is doing its job. Hooray! But they indicate that there are problems with my "rebuilt" Marvel carb. This is their description....("There are problems with the carb. The throttle shaft is badly worn and should be rebushed. There is an issue with the linkage. Depressing the accelerator pedal does not move the lever operating the accelerator pump in the carb sufficiently to squirt gas into the throat, making it difficult to start the car. If operated by hand the pump works as intended. Wrong linkage maybe? Possibly internal adjustment? We are reluctant to open up the carb. The car is tuned as finely as we can given the worn condition of the throttle shaft. The longer stroke fuel pump you sent does make a difference. In any case it runs well once started and drives and stops".)
My response:
"As to the carburetor. I sent it out to be rebuilt 20 years ago to I believe a Jim Alexandro? He was highly recomended and was thought to be very exacting. One just dosen't know till the component is put back in service. And it did sit for 20 years. I believe it cost well over $100 then. I know that the prefered carb is the Stromberg. But I have tried to find one with the correct accessories for mounting with no luck." Unfortunatley I did not take detailed photos when I removed the carb so when I" hung" all the parts back on the engine prior to sending the car out to the shop. I relied on them find the correct placements on the linkage. Only detailed diagrams I have seen over the years in "The Torque Tube" were for Strombergs.
More on their evaluation..
"The carb was obviously rebuilt. The leather seal on the accelerator pump was very dry and "crispy" and there is some problem with the linkage that controls the stroke of the accelerator pump. Once the engine fires it runs well but it takes a lot of cranking to get it going since the accelerator pump doesn't squirt fuel into the bowl when operated via the pedal. There is also a vacuum leak around the butterfly shaft in the carb which doesn't help things. I suspect the shaft was marginal when the carb was rebuilt and the rebuilder deemed it serviceable but it should be rebushed for best operation".
I would like to get the car's carb problems smoothed out as soon as possible. Then I could tackle some of the detail work to to make it the reliable driver I wanted. Any input on my course of action once I get the car back? I do have a spare Marvel carb to rebuild. I have some seen posts on trouble shooting these Marvels. Directions? Ideas?Larry
. -
Sent the spare pumps to Restorer's shop. Should have gotten there on thursday. We will see what the verdict is.
Larry
-
Chris :
Thanks for posting the For Sale 1915 T. It truly looks great and a pleasure to see! I hope someone will take it. We had been looking for one in good condition for something around $15,000. But all were pretty cobbled up. And for more money. We finally bought our 1925-25 Buick last Oct. Also somewhat cobbled. But would still like to try owning a "T" for a while It was always my favorite antique car. Since I saw Fred MacMurray flying his in "The Absent Minded Professor" back in 1961. As a 6 year old I thought all Model T's could secretly fly!
Larry
-
Thanks all who joined in to help with this problem. I have sent my extra pumps. The AC pump may have an 1/8" more movement as noted in my first post.
I oppologize to any one who has to work on a car that was partially dissasembled over 20 years ago. I tried to keep track of what I did. Consulted the 37-38 Buick Club's "Torque Tube". Bought parts from vendors that "promised" they were for my 1937-41 special. Restorer 32 has already had to sort through some of the incorrect parts I had assumed were correct.
Just hoping this would help.
Larry
-
My son and his family came today for my birthday. His talented wife presented me with this cake.
Very Sweet.Larry
-
Probably should have started this thread here first.
My 1937 Buick has been in a shop getting a "driver restoration". I had the tank cleaned prior to it going to the shop. I replaced with a new float and checked the sending unit for proper resistance. They made new fuel line. 3 weeks ago they were having trouble keeping it running. If they filled the carb it would run then starve. I asked then if I could send my spare fuel pumps. I believed that I rebuilt and remounted the pump that came with the car when I drove it home 25 years ago. Now not shure but I checked the 2 I had here at home. The one I rebuilt is an AC and seems to have had better suction. Checking the ones I have here The ACs actuating lever projects out 1 7/16" unloaded, 1 1/4' when spring is compressed (before pressure/tension on diaphram). The other pump which now I believe was the one originally on the car(not rebuilt) is CM brand, has the lever projecting 1 5/16" unloaded and 1 3/16 spring loaded. This past week they said it has the same issue only now after manualy filling the carb bowl it will run at idle. But will run down the battery and still won't get fuel to the carb. They put on another pump from a 1937 248 engine they have in the shop. Same result. Now they are saying that the cam lobe may be worn. Don't see how since the car ran great home and ran well for several years till I removed all accesories when I began to clean up the engine. Should I ask them to check their work? Ie. kinked line, poor seal at sending unit. The car is now 2 hours away and will finally have to send my extra pumps to be checked. I can't check my 20 year library of the "Torque Tube" since they have it at their shop.
Larry
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
-
Thanks Pete:
Should have prefaced my post that I had the tank cleaned prior to getting it to the shop and they made all new fuel line for it. Mabe I should ask them to check their work ie. kinked line, poor seal at sending unit etc.
Larry DiBarry BCA#18395
-
My 1937 Buick has been in a shop getting a "driver restoration". 3 weeks ago they were having trouble keeping it running. If they filled the carb it would run then starve. I asked then if I could send my spare fuel pumps. I believed that I rebuilt and remounted the pump that came with the car when I drove it home 25 years ago. Now not shure but I checked the 2 I had here at home. The one I rebuilt is an AC and seems to have had better suction. Checking the ones I have here The ACs actuating lever projects out 1 716" unloaded, 1 1/4' when spring is compressed (before pressure/tension on diaphram).
The other pump which now I believe was the one originally on the car(not rebuilt) is CM brand, has the lever projecting 1 5/16" unloaded and 1 3/16 spring loaded. This past week they said it has the same issue only now after manualy filling the carb bowl it will run at idle. But will run down the battery and still won't get fuel to the carb. They put on another pump from a 1937 248 engine they have in the shop. Same result. Now they are saying that the cam lobe may be worn. Don't see how since the car ran great home and ran well for several years till I began to clean up the engine. The car is now 2 hours away and will finally have to send my extra pumps to be checked. I can't check my 20 year library of the "Torque Tube" since they have it at their shop.
Larry
-
rhead:
Keep us informed of your progress. I have spent almost a year learning about my 1925 model 25. Still much to learn. The people on the forum have been great with their insights and experience. We have to keep this information documented and in circulation since all the people with first generation knowledge are gone. And the second generation
is swiftly leaving us. The 24-48 is a very nice car and the four wheel brakes (if properly adjusted and cared for) are very adequate stoppers. Just don't get them wet!
Larry
AND STILL THE SCRAPPERS STRIKE
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Or how not to bid on e-bay.
I had been following an assortment of 1925 standard parts on e-bay last week. Waiting close to closing then try to bid. Since most of my experience with this auction site bidding on parts for my car has been unsuccessful. Even when waiting to the last minutes I have usually been out bid. The parts.. seperate postings... complete front axle assembly
almost complete rear axle ...torched off torque tube near torque ball
4- 21" wheels, rims, tires, hubs and several brake drums
engine, missing accessories, but said to have been rebuilt 7 years ago, with transmission and the (stub of the torque tube)
spare tire carrier with bumper brackets
roadster top irons with rough bows and some covering left.
Through out the previous week I had contacted the poster about some verification on the engine number. He said he would get me the information and some other photos. These were not forthcoming. He did give me the sellers phone # and I spoke to him directly. He was planning on Hot Rodding what was left. The parts were for pick up only. But the poster said he came thru central Pa often and may be able to deliver. I said if not, since I was planning to
bid on all the items and if successful a long road trip to Tennesse would be in order. Last Friday I got tied up just before the auction ended. My fault! I saw that several items recieved no bid. But the wheels, axles and engine/trans were sold. I e-mailed the poster to make an offer on the top and spare tire carrier. No reply... I waited several days then tried to call the seller. No answer.... This evening I tried to call the seller again. We connected and I asked about the availability of the top and carrier. He said no one sent any money for all the parts... no one e-mailed.. so today he took all to the scrap. He got $158.00 for all!! That then made me feel realy sick!! I thanked him and apologized for not bidding on time and making it worth his while. Then I asked if where the scrap yard was and maybe I could contact them. He said no use since they"chunked up the stuff" soon as he brought it in. Watched them break the transmission off the engine etc. Most of the parts were at least still painted, very restoreable and not totally rusted. Not as if sitting in a field for 70 years.
I just can't get over that in this day and age this still happens. I realize if I was interested I should have gotten a bid in earlier. But once the items were sold one assumes someone wanted them, would pay and pick them up. This was after the Hershey experience where all rusted, crumbling bits and pieces are to command small fortunes. Please forgive the rant. I still want to kick myself!
AND STILL THE SCRAPPERS STRIKE
Larry