dibarlaw

April 30, 2012

Larry S:

I bought the felt seals from "BOB's" And made my own gaskets. Now trying to find someone local near Chambersburg to get linings and rivets from.

Larry DiBarry

April 30, 2012

Unless it is worn excessively it should just need oil added. I made new bearings for mine. 1925 -25 Touring.

Larry

April 30, 2012

Wow Dave!

Looked to be a 1924 Master sedan. The Photo credits called them both Model Ts? Could you ID the remanents of the blue touring car?

Larry

April 24, 2012

Leif:

The 2 piece lining arrangement on the external bands matches the parts book

photos. Part numbers 170056 & 170057. Open space where the brake band anchor clip (#169586) is located and riveted to band. The linings on the externals are 1 3/4" wide. The internal is 1 1/2"wide noteing that the Shop Manual calls for 1 3/8"wide. The lining material is the woven style with brass wire. All the linings look thick enough. I would think I could cut off the rivets and drill through to the rivet shank hole diameter and then countersink on the correct side. This appeares to be the same material that my 1937 clutch was relined with and it was riveted. Then of course I would need the correct rivets. Sorry to say when I worked at a local Buick garage in 1976 we scrapped the rivet machine and press. "No one relines shoes anymore". Could shure use it now!

Larry

April 24, 2012

Friday I was going to clean the E Brake band, reinstall the slinger with the new gasket and felt(soaked in glycerine as recomended) and put everything together. But the rear of the e-brake band rivet heads were worn thru. As I studied the fastening of the linings. Did not make sense. The ends were countersunk with round heads on outside (wear side) all others in field surface

round heads inside with the split rivet ends piercing the lining material. All apear to be worn thru to the steel splits. Looks like the rivets were just driven into the woven lining. No holes and countersinking. Most of the lining thickness is 3/16-1/4" On the external contracting band this is opposite. Again split rivets but round head on outside with the splits driven into the lining all show

worn to the splits. This lining is uniform 1/4" thick. When I first assesed the car before purchace I was satisfied that the brakes looked good. By the indicated thicknes. As I see the Shop Manual plainly shows countersunk rivets. With a 3/16 thick lining. I will check the other wheels. But it now looks like I need to reline all to avoid any further damage to the drums. Recomendations for suppliers?

April 19, 2012

Did send an E-Mail about availability. Mine do not have the door pockets. And I would like to reproduce them and some of my door hardware is wrong. We had an inquiery on the forum two months or so ago about a similar situation. Probably a 1922-23 mode 35 showing one rear door, some of the glass pannels, a set of top bows and a foot rest. Seems like in the 1930s these mid west farmers liked to cut down these old touring cars into pick up trucks and stashed the left over parts in the barn. It would have been great if you also found the top bows and irons. That is because my 1925-25 has a cut down top from probably a earlier model 45. (Has an oval back window). I would really like to find a correct set. The other iquirery also had the glass panel type side windows instead of the side curtains. Not very desirable when restoring a touring car. These were made I believe for the 25A enclosed touring. The factory photos still show the open car type windshield instead of the windshield you have.

Larry DiBarry

April 19, 2012

As always I thank my friends from half way around the world for their advice and insites. Now to get back to work!

Larry DiBarry

April 18, 2012

Finally got around to using my home made puller to take care of the badly leaking right rear wheel. Have a lot of scrubbing to do, Also made new slinger gaskets and will install the new felt seal from BOB's. Will look forward to stopping with 4 instead of 3 wheels! Any tips?

Larry

April 18, 2012

Finally got the right rear wheel pulled on my 1925 Buick. Much oil leakage to scrub off. Made a new slinger gasket and will install with a new felt from BOB's

Larry

April 17, 2012

What is the color? Looks to be dark green (Brewster Green)? That would make them 1925-25 doors.

April 9, 2012

Checked on my 1937 Buick-41 at Penn Dutch restorations. They have the front nose off and the radiator out and are sorting things out for a driver restoration. Want to drive to the BCA meet in

Concord NC. at end of June.

Larry

April 9, 2012

Just finished watching a RKO 1936 Whodunit "All mussed up". There were plenty of early 1930s cars, 34 Ford Coupe, 1928 Packard limo, 1930 Cadillac sedan, and 31 V16 etc. At the end the guilty ones stole one of the 2 police issue 1930 Buick Phaetons then crashed it thru a gate then ito a truck! After which the other 1930 Buick takes the surivor to jail. Much front end damage! I am still shaking!

Larry

April 9, 2012

Mark:

Just to say that we are rooting for you in your progress. I have watched with great interest since you gave me good advice on my non-purchace of the 1914 Buick model 37. Still sorting out the issues with my 1925-25. But we are now able to drive several miles without any major problems.

Good luck and looking forward tothe finnished product.

Larry

1925-25

1937-41

April 2, 2012

Herb:

The CLR mix fix was on this site a while back. I believe 1/2 pint to the system volume of water. The person said they drove the car 200 miles and then flushed out.(So far I haven't been able to drive more than 5 miles). Thats what I am going to do tonight. Interesting that when I first put it in and drove several miles the pump churned the mix to a white foam. Leaving a foaming trail out the overflow, "Mad car disease". But still am having frustrating issues. I drove the 25-25 1 1/2 miles to a meeting to warm it up before the back flush. I had to wait for 3 red light changes to cross route 30 here during "Rush Hour"? The motometer was just about topped out. Total driving time about 15 min. When parked for my meeting it is still pushing out the overflow. Only 10 min at the meeting I refilled the radiator 1/2 gallon.

The clutch issue is also frustrating. Usually after I start up in neutral I warm up the engine. Shut off.. Then restart in gear. Starts much faster than if the starter is trying to drive the car and start a cold engine. Easier on the starter too! Then the clutch breaks loose and I can shift from neutral. Today I had to shut off the engine twice to get back into gear once out to the meeting and once back. Then for about 3/4 of a mile all worked and shifted well (no clashing). When I parked in the garage all the water I had put in had been pushing out.

The underside was wet. Also I can't tell wether oil is slinging from the front seal. I made new bushings for the fan unit. So I don't believe it is the problem. The fan belt is oil soaked. I made a new leather belt but am reluctant to install it until I get this "oil gusher " under control.

Larry

April 2, 2012

Ben :

Good to hear from you downunder! Also to hear from Brad in BC. I have repeatedly tried to contact other 1925-25 Standard owners in the USA to start a dialog about our cars but most are not interested. These little differences are what make our cars a bit more interesting. About the hose support part #186584. Looking at my poorly reproduced parts book I can make out one of the studs for the mount in Photo Plate #1. If I could get a good photo description and accurate dimensions, I would like to develop some CAD drawings for possible fabrication. I know there is not a good market for limited run items. But I have been making up some drawings to keep on file of some of the unique parts of our car. Also last tuesday a local collector who has

2 1927 Model 54 Buick Roadsters and 1920s parts cars and a collection of Buick parts. He has been a good reference for me. He did sell me a good 25 standard radiator with a poor shell. So I do have a spare if needed. I did try the CLR mix to clean up the lime deposits. Hopefully this will keep my radiator flowing this summer.

Larry

February 25, 2012

Ben:

Thank you!! I was going to ask Leif what the 2 studs sticking out of block were for. Did not see them in any factory engine photos.

Good luck:

Larry

February 20, 2012

Brad:

From the research I had done looks like you are right on the date. Could be 1921-23 Model 45 touring with accessory glass enclosure instead of side curtains. the shape and style of the top irons pretty much match what I have on my 1925 model 25. Unfortunately mine do appear to be cut down from a larger touring car. I was hoping to find the correct ones. Or the correct rear curtain window. The doors are for a larger car as my rear doors are 23" wide X 20 1/4" tall. I will ask others for their input. Probably the car fell victim to being cut down to a farm truck and these were the left-overs.

I have included some photos. First of what I believe the top and doors fit and my cars adapted top. If the top was what I needed I would definately make an offer.

Larry DiBarry

February 20, 2012

Sorry:

I tried to copy from another thread and edit. It did not seem as if it copied. So I kept trying!

Please cut the first 5 replys.

Larry

February 20, 2012

<TABLE id=post999344 class=tborder2 border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD id=td_post_999344 class=alt3>Trying to reinstall all the parts I removed from my 37 Buick 24 years ago to get it rolling. I am sending it out to a local shop for a "Driver restoration". They said that they could have it done for the BCA meet in North Carolina this June. So far this week. Sorted out boxes of new and NOS parts I purchaced over the years,some more than once!... Had to remove the shoes from the left front(locked up) because of broken springs and the right side was adjusted but still a bit of drag. Reinstalled clutch (the original cause of it's lay-up). Last night got the transmission up high enough (with a web sling)to get it on a jack. Hope to install tomorrow. Then the axle and springs.