dibarlaw
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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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These are what I made up.[ATTACH=CONFIG]203053[/ATTACH]
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rwolf: I had to make some up for my 25 as mine were missing or to rusted. I made some extras. How many do you need ? I can check at the Buick Nationals also. If none are to be found I can send some when I return. Best Regards: Larry
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If it were not for the crowned front fenders I would call them Pullmans. The one in front possibly a 1910 or 1911 model M. Larry
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For some reason my computer will not let me post a new thread. So I have added this to one of my previous ones. Have been working on my 1937-41 to get ready to drive to South Bend. The latest dissapointment was that "wiperman" said that he would not be able to rebuild the vacuum wiper unit. The car was suposed to be able to drive to Concord last June. But the "Restoration Shop" that had promised to have it ready did not get it back to me till September. And it was not able to do a 3 mile trip around town. They said all it needs was a little bit of "Tweeking". Well I have been "Tweeking" for a year and still finding problems that they were to adress and I have had to redo. We paid them a lot of money for partial efforts. That could not be evaluated untill we were able to drive it and asessed by other mechanics. One thing missed was the steam cleaning of the underside of the front end. Since they were having to remove the radiator to be sent out to be redone and rebuild the front end/brakes. I thought that part of the prep made sense. When I made an issue of it later it was going to be a extra cost item. And by that time cost had already broken the Bank!! When I had the front end aligned (since they put in all new brake hydraulics hardware etc. king-pins, tie rod ends, and pronounced the front end tight) the mechanic found the lower control arms and shafts were very worn. They were well packed with grease and not noticeable. So another item to rebuild and while I was under doing a temporary fix to this problem I scraped several pounds of 75 year old guck around the front cross member and frame. No cleaning as I asked for. They did paint up some of the frame over top of road grime. I remember getting charged for several cans of "Kyrlon". Yesterday I decided to flush the cooling system and check what thermostat may be in it and remove. I noticed there was blue sealer around the thermostat housing and did not recall it being there before they took the car. They did replace the water pump and put on new hoses. When I removed the 2 bolts one was snapped off and the head was just left in place and much sealer was used to fill in. Since they already had the front nose and radiator out it would have been much easier to drill out the broken bolt. Instead it took me over 2 hours in cramped quarters. I mentioned on an earlier post about the wiring harness and the added turn signal fiasco. After 2 months of them avoiding sending for the harness they said it would be to late to be ready to drive to Concord last June. When checking on the car in Aug we found out that they ordered and installed the regular harness without the extra turn signal wires. I was furious but the owner said they would take care of it. They did by charging me over $300 for extra materials to cobble up a turn signal set up. Now I have extra loom showing everywhere. But when we got the car home I kept having electrical problems. I had to check each connection and there were several incorrectly placed. The bigger problem was that I had to go over and clean each connection. They never cleaned any corrosion off. I believe we have most of these issues solved. I only expounded on these things because I have been dealing with some of the items over the past year and several just showed up this week. I also know it is a delicate negotiation when dealing with a Restoration Shop as they have your car and your money and then it is about their timeline not yours. I know now I made this expensive mistake. Please take heed!.
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John: Thanks for the lead. I checked their catalog and nothing shows but I will call tomorrow. Thanks for the offer of the trailer. We were originally going to with Dick and Karen Beckley and have them trailer us out since he was to be picking up his newly restored 53 Skylark and us driving our 37 home. But his 53 will not be ready so he is not going. Also I don't think our Kia Rondo is up to the task! Larry
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While I had the top open I retorqued the head after It was good and hot after the resetting of the lash. Next morning I went to fill her up @$3.24 and added "Startron"to combat our ethanol problems. When I got back home after the 5 mile round trip I could hear the exhaust popping like there was a bad valve. So off came the valve cover again and I re did the valves again. I didn't think retorqueing the head could have caused this. But most of the rockers needed some adjustment. Better now. While I was out in the drive way I thought I would do a radiator flush before the South Bend trip. Thought I would check to see what thermostat was inside... More bad news... on another thread. Larry
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I just recieved the same news on the unit on my 1937-41 from wiperman. He indicated in his web site that the pre 1935 units were problematic because of warpage. I thought 36s and up would be OK. He did return my payment minus the return postage. Does not look as if he even looked inside of mine. I asked if there was any replacement units that would fit. He answered no. No other suggestions. So I guess it is RAIN-X for me. Larry
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Thanks John: The pictures of the exhaust reminded me of Charles's 1922 in Baltimore that had the exhaust pipe clamped to the rear axle. I wonder how the Buick dealership that bought it is copeing with it? Larry
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Still checking things off prior to the drive to South Bend. Today called the vacuum wiper repair man to make sure he recieved my 37's wiper. Delivered last monday. His web ad states 2 week turn around so I thought that would give me a week buffer to get reinstalled before we had to leave for the Nationals. He indicated today that mine was probably not rebuildable. And that mine was at the end of about 70 or so do be done. Said that I should have sent it over a month ago. And no... he has nothing to substitute for it. I guess "RainX". Spent the afternoon adjusting the valve lash on the 37 one rocker was about .010 out and ticking badly. Took it out for a drive and warmed it up good before doing the rocker adjusting dance. About 1/2 of the valves needed readjusted. Nice and Quiet now!! Cleaned the little screen filter where the external oil line that goes into the block to feed the rocker arm. I quess I will pull the side covers. More to do! Larry
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Looking good John. Persistance pays off. I will scrutinize more carefully at South Bend. Today called the vacuum wiper repair man to make sure he recieved my 37's wiper. Delivered last monday. His web ad states 2 week turn around so I thought that would give me a week buffer to get reinstalled before we had to leave for the Nationals. He indicated today that mine was probably not rebuildable. And that mine was at the end of about 70 or so do be done. Said that I should have sent it over a month ago. And no... he has nothing to substitute for it. I guess "RainX". Spent the afternoon adjusting the valve lash on the 37 one rocker was about .010 out and ticking badly. Took it out for a drive and warmed it up good before doing the rocker adjusting dance. About 1/2 of the valves needed readjusted. Nice and Quiet now!! Cleaned the little screen the external oil line that goes into the block to feed the rocker arm. More to do! Larry
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My grandfather always said that his first car was a 1927 Buick "Country Club Coupe". He said the color was brown. He didn't recall whether it was a Standard or a Master. Either which would have had the rumble seat and golf bag door. Not the best choice for a family of 5. He bought it as a used car in 1930 which at the time my father was 6 my aunt was 9 and uncle was 13. So with 2 adults and the 3 kids it would not be very practical. He said that the block cracked the winter of 1934 and since he was a machinist he made a patch plate which held at least till 1937 when he traded it for a 1937 Pontiac. 2 Oldsmobiles and 2 Pontiacs later, his last car though was a Buick. A 75 Regal Coupe.
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I have an open car. 1925 Buick standard Touring. On an 80+degree day with the top down cowl vent wide open and at 45 mph it is not bad. Just don't stop!.. as it feels like you have the heater on full blast! This is the same with my 1937-41 sedan. I will try to add some reflective insulation on the floor and firewall prior to us leaving for the Buick nationals. The wife does not do well without air conditioning.
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Be very careful on applying any pressure to back flush the radiator (yours should be a square core, in my 1925-25 it is honeycomb). I tried to use a "flusher" to backflush my spare radiator I bought from a friend and ended up ruining it. $100 shot. So I had it recored with a modern heavy duty core @$900! The local shop sent it out to Pittsburgh. Now I have over $1000 in this radiator. I have still been using the original one that came with my car. I thought the overheating problems were over but when I tried to drive to our Mason-Dixon car show 2 weeks ago. The old problems came back. So I am considering finally installing the new one. Larry
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I am still trying to get the 37 tripworthy to the Buick Nationals. Worked on jury-rigging the lower control arm and shafts. This was since the shaft kits sent by CARS (with bushings) don't work. When I ordered them from their latest catalog only part # shown was SK377 they didn't ask and I didn't know to ask untill I reciecved them if this was the only style available. And the type I would need requires the dissasembly of the entire bottom half of the suspension. Already had the alignment done when we found this problem. Thought I could just remove the shafts and turn them down and re-thread. Then make bushings to fit. But as I already said to remove the shafts would require the removal of the control arms and they are out of round also. The tolerance on these parts were originally to be .005-.010". Most were worn close to .100" at the largest gap. Instead I cleaned the threads well fitting them to the undamaged mating threads at the bottom of each part. Then file fitted up some cresent shaped pieces of brass and drove them tight to take up the space. This should get us to South Bend and back. Yesterday checked on CARS website catalog it shows a #SK37 shaft (Non-Bush) added in 2010. That would have been good except the threads on the control arms are enlarged way past a good fit. Larry<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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Great Job Dwight! Much better than when I saw it in March. If you have a spare 2 weeks could you come over and do mine?.... I am still trying to get the 37 tripworthy to the Buick Nationals. Worked on jury-rigging the lower control arm and shafts. This was since the shaft kits sent by CARS (with bushings) don't work. And the type I would need requires the dissasembly of the entire bottom half of the suspension. Thought I could just remove the shafts and turn them down and re thread. Then make bushings to fit. Instead I cleaned the threads well then made up some cresent shaped pieces of brass and drove them tight to take up the space. This should get us to South Bend and back. Larry
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Looking forward to this, since last year at Concord we observed from the outside. So we will be there if the 37 cooperates! Larry
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Dave : What prompted you to attempt this job in the first place. My 37's 248 ci engine has a pretty good "Tick" going on with it. And I would like to quiet it down. Larry
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John: Looking good ! I have been trying to find out what was included in my 25's set. I know that Jay Barret's 23 sport roadster (the one we went to buy) had a tool compartment with tools in the drivers side door. See the March 2013 Bugle issue spotlighting his car. I had googled images of 23's when we were going to buy his car and found pictures of a restored 23-45 with its set of tools but it would not let me download it. Back to the garage to get my 37 trip worthy. Enjoy your picnic! Larry
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Brian: Already have my reservations. Just working down the prep list for the 37. Have to send out the vacuum wiper motor to be rebuilt. Oh... Thats right it won't rain! Also will probably have to machine some bushings for my lower control arms. The new shaft kit I got from CARS will not fit. Look forward to seeing all of you. Larry
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Good one Dwight! And are they Wittworth thread? Larry
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Brian: Thanks for the reminder. Just made our reservations for 7/21,22,23. Sounds like a good time. We have taken the 37 out twice this season on longer trips. Our Mason-Dixon/B.O.O.M Wine tour at 122 miles and our club car show at 95 miles. Each time with no major issues. But I still have a few reacuring problems to straighten out. I have to get my wiper motor rebuilt yet and make lower control arm bushings. The new shaft kit from CARS would require me to find parts from a parts car to fit. Possibly a 38 special. Every time I believe I have taken care of one issue 2 more show up. Larry
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Than you all for your input. Finally getting around to analyzing what is there and checking the diameters. Looks to be that the original arm bore and the new shaft O.D. is exactly the same. The new bushing is about .270 larger My problem now it to see what lower control arm will be compatible. 38 special? And then try to locate them. Another solution is that I machine new bushings to fit the existing arms from hex stock. Also turning down the existing shafts about .125 undersize and chase new threads.This is a big job. But I already have over $150 in parts that don't fit. This has always been my experience with the Buick parts supplier out of New Jersey. Larry
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Thanks Mark: All that you recomended I had checked already. The only thing I changed was that before I tried to take this long trip I added a small overflow tank. I had already added a hose extension off the overflow tube to direct any spit-ups down under the car instead of spraying over the engine compartment. This has been fine all spring with hardly a cup of water being expelled. That day (85 deg) all the foam had erupted from the overflow tank. After cool down I had to ad a gallon of water to bring up to the top of the core. The next day I removed the overflow tank and ran the hose back down between the radiator shell and left side splash shield where it was before. Drove around town doing errands and did about 6 miles. The Motometer did not go above "Cool Motor" line. After sitting in garage 15 min on cool down, not even a drop came out the overflow tube. On Fathers day took family out for a short drive about 4 miles with a full load of 5 passengers (80 deg). Motometer just above cool motor and next line when pulled back in garage. I felt the radiator at the top and compared to bottom. I felt that it was slightly hotter towards the top. Holding the palm of the hand on the core untill uncomfortable about 3 seconds. While on the bottom about 5 seconds. Also not a drip out of the overflow. So adding this tank to the situation may have cause the problem. Larry
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Sorry to say my 1925 will not be able to attend our Mason Dixon Chapter car show this Saturday at Freysinger Buick in Mechanicsburg Pa. After 2 weeks of intensive prep. Including redoing oil pan with new gaskets and end seals, rebuilding oil pump, repairing the oil distribution tube solder joint. (Much blue silicone sealer everywhere!) Plastigaged the rod bearings and adjusted. Serviced the rear axle, adjusted brakes, greased etc. and new fan belt. I felt sure she was ready to travel the 40 miles. Last evening we left about 6 PM to go to Freysingers (to store in their drive-thru till saturday when we would also drive up our 1937-41) with with my wife Joanie following. We got about 2 miles from home when white foam spewed from the left side hood louvers. (Seemed as though I had solved this problem last fall and has not done this on longer drives this spiring). Temp started going up so we headed back home. Last year I had gone thru the cooling system repeatedly with this same outcome untill I found that the intake manifold was loose. Once all was retorqued & blocked off heat riser ports, all seemed to run much cooler. This spring after a 10 mile run or so on a 70 deg day temp hardly went above warm engine on the Motometer. When engine was stopped overflow may belch about a cup of water. I had seen where others had added a small overflow tank to even take care of this. Which I did and this is the only thing added different from earlier drives. I guess "Beaulah" just refuses to go past the Boro limits. So we will only drive the 37 up the morning of the show. Larry
1911 Buick model 14
in Me and My Buick
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Joe : Sorry you were not at the Buick National. Your model 14 would have been a real show stopper. We did have 3, 2 Cylinder cars here. 2 Model Fs and a G. The 2 Model Fs were used to give rides the last 2 days. Tomorrow the Pre-war division is doing a 3 day tour thru Indiana and Michigan. Wish we could see you and the car on our way back to Penna. Larry