dibarlaw
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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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The project is going slow and unsteady. I was finally able to drop the axle last night. Staging the jack stands and the 2X4 & 3/4" plywood Boxes I had made to raise things up was a bit scary. (Made them to do the same thing on the 1937 back in 1987). I hoped never to have to use them again! All staged then the diagonal truss rod on one side hanging up on the face of the right jack stand when the axle made it's descending arc. Had do redo it twice. Today I will probably start uncoupling things. I have NOS linings coming from Terry Weigand and a possible used clutch from a fellow I had helped with his 25-25 in Canada. Just has to verify that it is for a 1925 standard. They are all the same from 1918 to 1925. Except the 4 cylinder and standards have 8 linings and the larger 6s have 10.
Always, once something is apart the need to do other things arise. So any suggestions as to what to do or check while I have the transmission out. I plan on making a new felt engine rear seal, torque ball seal, check pilot bushing etc. Also check all the starter gear mechanisms. Also there are locator plates riveted to the axle housing for the shackle blocks. These 1/4" thick riveted plates are loose and leak rear end oil. A lot. Since the shackle block is a grease lubed fitting any one come up with an idea how to seal this leaking?
What I did not post on my other thread about my out of round rims was that while trying to get the spare on the right rear...... OOPs.... the first time in 40 years I knocked a car off a jack stand. Thought I broke my wrist as the fender came down on it. Just a burse. The car dropped only about 5".
More fun than the law allows!
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When I bought my 1937-41 back in1987 the wheels were incorrect and I bought 4, 37 wheels locally. Fast forward 25 years. They were sandblasted and repainted Hampton Gray and striped before I put them on. Looks Great! Of course I had a flat on the way from our MASON-DIXON car show on Saturday and pulling out one of the tires and wheel I had as a spare got me wondering what the wheels were originally for??
The 1937 16" wheel has a smaller center depression and 5 clips. The ones that came with the car were 4, large center depression with 3 clips and 2 with the same center but with 5 clips. All the 1940-1949 type of hub caps fit these. Since I don't have a 1937 wheel for a spare I was just going to re do one of the 5 clip wheels to match. Thought these may be for a 1940 and up... Once I know what they are for I can send them along to some one in need.
Larry
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My mistake. I just watched it again. More rounded radiator, Tilt ray headlights, light switch on steering hub = 1926 or 1927-55.
Close, a 1926-45A. -
I showed the movie to my one Tech-Ed class on the last day of school. Watching it on the "Smart Board" I was able to catch some details. The car that is dropped into the river (I still cry) is a 1925 model 55 Sport touring. As it has a trunk and double spares and aluminum steering wheel spider. The 24-55 has the wooden/aluminum spoke steering wheel. Still did not look bad for an old car at the time "1934". Must be some product placement going on as the "BUICK " name is referenced at least 3 times. Unusual for MGM. Usually Warner Brothers pictures are crawling with Buicks during this time. MGM movies had lots of Fords Lincolns and Packards.
Larry
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Drove 105 miles round trip in our 1937-41 to our 6th annual MASON-DIXON car show at Freysinger Buick GMC at Mechanicsgburg Pa. 2.5 miles from home we had a flat! It was a perfect day otherwise.
Larry
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Terry:
The kids left the building! So school is over and now I can attend to more important things. The first picture is of the loaner clutch from the 1924-45 BCA member David Stratton, which was for me to study. It has 5 guide plates and 10 lined surfaces. This is the outside cover toward the throw-out bearing. This lining is now what is missing on mine. 2nd photo is what I found after removing the bottom cover. Last, that 8" piece which is all that was left of what was on that outer plate. Again, as discussed my clutch has only 4 guide plates and should have 8 linings. So I believe that is what I will need. Of course I don't know what the metal plates actually look like yet until I get them out.
Now have to stage things to pull that axle.. Hope you enjoy your ride in the "20" today!
Larry
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After fighting with the sticking clutch on my 1925 Standard since I bought it over 2 years ago it finally worked as it should today! I was preparing to take the car about 44 miles to our Mason-Dixon car show in Mechanicsburg Pa. this weekend. Over the last 3 weeks I redid the cobbled brakes, installed new tires, repainted wheels and installed my newly re-cored radiator.(This was to combat the chronic overheating). Today I thought I would take it out for a 15 mile shakedown run. The wife and I started out and it went right into gear! Drove about 2 miles and stopped to fill the gas tank. Not a drip from the radiator! Moto-meter still at "cool motor "after 15 min of driving. Did some stop and go traffic for another mile, with each shift not a clash up or down! Drove another 3 miles out into the country.We were truly experiencing a form of Buick bliss! Downshifted from 3rd to 2nd as we approached a route 30 stop light, slipped right into 2nd without even double clutching!!!! Magical! Downshifted into first (quiet as a mouse)as the light turned green. Put out my hand to signal a left turn onto rush hour route 30, pulled away in first no problem, shifted to second..............NOTHING..........Tried all gears.......... NOTHING...... The clutch was gone! So my 25 will miss the show again. (Last year it foamed up and overheated at the city limits.)
I had heard the stories about dying trees putting out a great crop of fruit just before they died. Did not know it also applied to clutches. When home I took off the inspection plate and the interior had an abundance of what resembled shredded burlap. So now that axle will finally have to come out.
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Last week I was redoing the cobbled up brakes (steel split rivets) with properly counter sunk and set brass rivets, new tires and repainting the two wheels on the drivers side. Today I adjusted the brakes, filled the transmission which was about 1/2 pint low and went for a drive. Of course I started out in the same fashion but every shift up or down afterward was quite positive with a minimum of clash. Thank God for small victories! This week I will change out the old radiator for the re-cored one I had made last year to hopefully cure the chronic overheating.
I guess we have to just keep at it!
Larry
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hidden :
Again welcome to our world. I know that torque tube drive stops a lot of "do it your self" home repairmen. I deliberately passed on buying several nice 1930s Buicks back in the 1970s because of the rear axle removal in order to service. " Runs great, but what is that sound?. Oh, just needs a pilot bearing real cheap fix".......So instead back in 1987 I bought a 1937 Special with what felt like a good clutch and then blew it on the drive home. So I still had to pull the rear axle. Sat for 25 years before I got a clutch back in her. All I know is that a much younger man that I am now pulled it out.
When we bought the 1925 in 2011 it was to be running well "all it needs is the clutch adjusted...." So I am trying all the fixes as stated before I pull that rear axle. That young man is long gone.
Best of luck :
Larry
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You should be able to feel the oil at the threads of the side plug. Fill it up till it starts to run out or just below the "sight hole " as the manual states.
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hidden hunter:
Welcome to my world. I have attempted all the aforementioned "fixes" to my 1925-25 including trying to de-gum the faces with solvent and detergent. All made the clutch work better the first few times. But after sitting overnight the same problem came back.. Start up- then gears-no-go! Shut down-- put into gear--restart --hold on to the brake until the clutch breaks free...as the car lurches ahead... A very unrespectable means of getting underway! While the car is parked I have a length of wood wedged under the dash to keep the clutch pedal in. While the car is underway I have gotten used to doing the shifts in a fairly peaceful manner. Although one day it would give me no trouble then the next day, miss a downshift and have to shut down and start all over again. As I approach a stop I depress the clutch then I will give the accelerator a shot to rev up a bit, and the clutch usually breaks free.
Just worried about the day when it does not!
I did find a source for 600# Steam Cylinder oil and it does shift much better than when I first drove it.
Larry
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Sorry Mark. I had done this last night but was sidetracked and forgot to post.
Yes the photo you have is similar to mine.
The I.D. should average to around 20.750? The width at the bead flange is 4". I used my inside micrometer and got 20.438 at the smallest (diametrically across from the stem) and at about 30 degrees to the left with the split being 0. It was 21.050 So almost 5/8 inch out. Last night I picked up my tires back from Universal and tried to change the wheels onto different wheels and the fits were the same. So no further damage was done in breaking down the rims. Thanks to all:
Larry
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Just took my age cracked old Dunlop 500/525-21 tires and rims up to Universal to get new tires. The rear rims were a bit out of round and at 35mph the car had a decided "Hop". Took some effort to remove them. The front rims seemed to slide off easily. I thought I would try the spare to see if it fit any better. Well, it shows about 1/2 inch out of round! No way to get it on the wheel. Good thing I did not have to change a flat! Question is, can these be trued up? The wheels I have are probably from a 1926 Standard since they are for 21". My 25 originally came with 22" rims.
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Midman:
I know we discussed you getting these drawings. As you are a new member of the Mason-Dixon chapter I would to congratulate you on the spirit you have shown in making these available to the club. To me this is what the hobby is all about.
You make me proud!
Larry
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A White over Copper mist 1963 Buick Skylark that was our 2nd(work car at the time). October 1971 was when I took the test for the 3rd time at the State police drivers training center at Washington Pa. My 1937 international was not roadworthy yet. The Skylark was great driving and handling car. Unfortunately it had the 2 speed power-glide and was not happy with me trying to make it do things it was not intended to do. Needless to say it was a sad day for the great little car when I got involved with it. Wish I could go back and kick that kid in the butt!
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Thanks for posting Dave. Brownsville is just down the road from where I grew up. My first interest was in heavy equipment as my Godfather ran a coal stripping business. He always saved the equipment magazines for me from the late 50s.
Larry
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Leif:
I know you and I did talk about this at the time. I was just commenting that these may have come from an enclosed touring since he also had the glass side curtains that show in the factory photos. I have seen photos of both the 25 and 25A and the doors are identical as we discussed. Also thought I would have bought the doors at 1/2 of his asking price.
Larry
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From what was there these were probably from a 1925-25A standard enclosed touring car. At the time I tried to negotiate on these doors but did not want the enclosed touring side glass or the windshield which had to come from another sedan type of car. So there was no just getting the doors alone. I see in the above post he changed it and wanted $400 just for the doors. Then about another $100 for shipping. I would have liked to have them for the door handles and inner panels for the pocket patterns. But not at that price. My doors are OK. So I did not want to take them from someone who really may have needed them.
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15 miles on Saturday and 52 miles on Sunday after church in our 1937. With no particular place to go!
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Having ridden with Dave a mile or two in the "Chartreuse Lady" I could not conceive it any other color. Plus it was easier to be seen in the cloud of smoke from its burning brakes as we tried to keep Mark Shaw from dragging us down hill at over 40 MPH on the 2013 After Tour!
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Tonybuick:
Thank you for the photos as I had been planning to install bumpers on my 1925-25. The set I had bought
"Buckeye"will look quite correct except the brackets that came with it are of a very different configuration. So the adapter plates you show look like what I will need to make mine work.
As to hidden hunters question. Buick did not supply bumpers so all that appear on our cars are after market items. Higher end products were nickel plated while some like mine may be a combination. From what I gathered from others I have spoken to on the subject of bumpers. It seems to be a city/country cousin situation. If you lived in the city with its hectic traffic, bumpers were a necessity. In rural areas with no traffic and occasional trips to town, bumpers were not as important. Unless you needed to nudge a cow now and then.
Larry
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buicknewbee:
Thank you for the account of the test drive of the 1931 Buick. I was interested in this car also. One of the local Buick club director's father showed interest in purchasing this car. He had called me to ask my opinion as to what to expect. His main issue was that the model 55 is the smaller series Buick and would probably be too cramped for him. Also he thought the price was too high. They bought a 1930 Model A sedan instead! I believe that this is the car currently advertised in the Buick Bugle. He sent me the same photo as appears in the Bugle. But at the time would not disclose the price or location. I told him if he was no longer interested I certainly would be. Even at the asking price I would have to sell both my cars and would still be short! From your description the photo shows better than the actual condition. But I still like it!!
I was going to PM you with some touring car leads that I had come across and could not act on. Price/Distance/Condition. But as I know if the wife dislikes it as you have indicated it is a lost cause. I have been sorting out the 1925 Standard touring we bought over 2 years ago and still have not gotten to a point where I feel that my wife can safely drive it. I know she would love to. We do enjoy our short outings in it. She is comfortable with driving our 1937 sedan.
Got to get the women involved!
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Truly a magnificent automobile that looks to be very correct exterior appearance. Would love to have a car like this. But I would have to sell my 1925 and 1937 Buicks and would be still under the money.
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Drove our 1937-41 to the Mason-Dixon Spring car collection tour. About 175 miles round trip.
A 1941 Chevrolet was the only other pre-war car there.
Drove the 1925-25 around town and over to a friends shop who is making it a Boot for the ratty top.
Difficulty selecting gear on a 1926 Standard Six
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
hidden_hunter:
I will be posting more on my thread on 1925 Clutch Issues but this is what I used to hold the rear plate and spring compressed on mine. Also some comparisons between the Standard and Master clutches. I know that yours should be different than mine.
Standard on the left. Standard spider on the left.
Best of luck :
Larry