dibarlaw
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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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hidden :
Again welcome to our world. I know that torque tube drive stops a lot of "do it your self" home repairmen. I deliberately passed on buying several nice 1930s Buicks back in the 1970s because of the rear axle removal in order to service. " Runs great, but what is that sound?. Oh, just needs a pilot bearing real cheap fix".......So instead back in 1987 I bought a 1937 Special with what felt like a good clutch and then blew it on the drive home. So I still had to pull the rear axle. Sat for 25 years before I got a clutch back in her. All I know is that a much younger man that I am now pulled it out.
When we bought the 1925 in 2011 it was to be running well "all it needs is the clutch adjusted...." So I am trying all the fixes as stated before I pull that rear axle. That young man is long gone.
Best of luck :
Larry
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You should be able to feel the oil at the threads of the side plug. Fill it up till it starts to run out or just below the "sight hole " as the manual states.
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hidden hunter:
Welcome to my world. I have attempted all the aforementioned "fixes" to my 1925-25 including trying to de-gum the faces with solvent and detergent. All made the clutch work better the first few times. But after sitting overnight the same problem came back.. Start up- then gears-no-go! Shut down-- put into gear--restart --hold on to the brake until the clutch breaks free...as the car lurches ahead... A very unrespectable means of getting underway! While the car is parked I have a length of wood wedged under the dash to keep the clutch pedal in. While the car is underway I have gotten used to doing the shifts in a fairly peaceful manner. Although one day it would give me no trouble then the next day, miss a downshift and have to shut down and start all over again. As I approach a stop I depress the clutch then I will give the accelerator a shot to rev up a bit, and the clutch usually breaks free.
Just worried about the day when it does not!
I did find a source for 600# Steam Cylinder oil and it does shift much better than when I first drove it.
Larry
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Sorry Mark. I had done this last night but was sidetracked and forgot to post.
Yes the photo you have is similar to mine.
The I.D. should average to around 20.750? The width at the bead flange is 4". I used my inside micrometer and got 20.438 at the smallest (diametrically across from the stem) and at about 30 degrees to the left with the split being 0. It was 21.050 So almost 5/8 inch out. Last night I picked up my tires back from Universal and tried to change the wheels onto different wheels and the fits were the same. So no further damage was done in breaking down the rims. Thanks to all:
Larry
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Just took my age cracked old Dunlop 500/525-21 tires and rims up to Universal to get new tires. The rear rims were a bit out of round and at 35mph the car had a decided "Hop". Took some effort to remove them. The front rims seemed to slide off easily. I thought I would try the spare to see if it fit any better. Well, it shows about 1/2 inch out of round! No way to get it on the wheel. Good thing I did not have to change a flat! Question is, can these be trued up? The wheels I have are probably from a 1926 Standard since they are for 21". My 25 originally came with 22" rims.
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Midman:
I know we discussed you getting these drawings. As you are a new member of the Mason-Dixon chapter I would to congratulate you on the spirit you have shown in making these available to the club. To me this is what the hobby is all about.
You make me proud!
Larry
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A White over Copper mist 1963 Buick Skylark that was our 2nd(work car at the time). October 1971 was when I took the test for the 3rd time at the State police drivers training center at Washington Pa. My 1937 international was not roadworthy yet. The Skylark was great driving and handling car. Unfortunately it had the 2 speed power-glide and was not happy with me trying to make it do things it was not intended to do. Needless to say it was a sad day for the great little car when I got involved with it. Wish I could go back and kick that kid in the butt!
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Thanks for posting Dave. Brownsville is just down the road from where I grew up. My first interest was in heavy equipment as my Godfather ran a coal stripping business. He always saved the equipment magazines for me from the late 50s.
Larry
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Leif:
I know you and I did talk about this at the time. I was just commenting that these may have come from an enclosed touring since he also had the glass side curtains that show in the factory photos. I have seen photos of both the 25 and 25A and the doors are identical as we discussed. Also thought I would have bought the doors at 1/2 of his asking price.
Larry
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From what was there these were probably from a 1925-25A standard enclosed touring car. At the time I tried to negotiate on these doors but did not want the enclosed touring side glass or the windshield which had to come from another sedan type of car. So there was no just getting the doors alone. I see in the above post he changed it and wanted $400 just for the doors. Then about another $100 for shipping. I would have liked to have them for the door handles and inner panels for the pocket patterns. But not at that price. My doors are OK. So I did not want to take them from someone who really may have needed them.
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15 miles on Saturday and 52 miles on Sunday after church in our 1937. With no particular place to go!
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Having ridden with Dave a mile or two in the "Chartreuse Lady" I could not conceive it any other color. Plus it was easier to be seen in the cloud of smoke from its burning brakes as we tried to keep Mark Shaw from dragging us down hill at over 40 MPH on the 2013 After Tour!
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Tonybuick:
Thank you for the photos as I had been planning to install bumpers on my 1925-25. The set I had bought
"Buckeye"will look quite correct except the brackets that came with it are of a very different configuration. So the adapter plates you show look like what I will need to make mine work.
As to hidden hunters question. Buick did not supply bumpers so all that appear on our cars are after market items. Higher end products were nickel plated while some like mine may be a combination. From what I gathered from others I have spoken to on the subject of bumpers. It seems to be a city/country cousin situation. If you lived in the city with its hectic traffic, bumpers were a necessity. In rural areas with no traffic and occasional trips to town, bumpers were not as important. Unless you needed to nudge a cow now and then.
Larry
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buicknewbee:
Thank you for the account of the test drive of the 1931 Buick. I was interested in this car also. One of the local Buick club director's father showed interest in purchasing this car. He had called me to ask my opinion as to what to expect. His main issue was that the model 55 is the smaller series Buick and would probably be too cramped for him. Also he thought the price was too high. They bought a 1930 Model A sedan instead! I believe that this is the car currently advertised in the Buick Bugle. He sent me the same photo as appears in the Bugle. But at the time would not disclose the price or location. I told him if he was no longer interested I certainly would be. Even at the asking price I would have to sell both my cars and would still be short! From your description the photo shows better than the actual condition. But I still like it!!
I was going to PM you with some touring car leads that I had come across and could not act on. Price/Distance/Condition. But as I know if the wife dislikes it as you have indicated it is a lost cause. I have been sorting out the 1925 Standard touring we bought over 2 years ago and still have not gotten to a point where I feel that my wife can safely drive it. I know she would love to. We do enjoy our short outings in it. She is comfortable with driving our 1937 sedan.
Got to get the women involved!
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Truly a magnificent automobile that looks to be very correct exterior appearance. Would love to have a car like this. But I would have to sell my 1925 and 1937 Buicks and would be still under the money.
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Drove our 1937-41 to the Mason-Dixon Spring car collection tour. About 175 miles round trip.
A 1941 Chevrolet was the only other pre-war car there.
Drove the 1925-25 around town and over to a friends shop who is making it a Boot for the ratty top.
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Jacob:
Thanks for joining us! I teach high school Tech-Ed and would be delighted to have more 16 year old students with your drive and attitude. When somehow ??? I manage to discuss vintage car matters with my class they are not the least interested in them. Or cars in general for that mater. It was quite the opposite 30 years ago when I started teaching. At the time I was a collector of antique radios also and this brought me into contact with others of similar interest in the era these artifacts represented. The 1920s and 1930s. That is what I have concentrated on ever since, except I have been working down the radios since the fellows who kept me interested in them have since passed on. I have tried to get some of my students interested but to no avail.
Still it is great to have you along. Let us enjoy the ride.
Larry
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John:
Just was re-reading the article in "Classic Car" about your 1932-57S and wondering how you were doing. So sorry you are experiencing a broken part.
Good to know that it should be easier to mend than some of the die-cast metal parts on our Buicks.
Get well!
Larry
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Dave :
Thanks for posting. Other than a few bits and pieces. I don't believe I would running back up to your place to pick it up. Also don't have a nice out of site place for a parts car. Unlike your trek to California to pick up the 1915! Looks to have a fairly nice nose strip and emblem. The only parts I am looking for my 37-41 is a battery box and a better air cleaner. Interesting carb linkage set up. So it looks like it was on the road for a long time.
Best to you:
Larry D
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Hidden Hunter:
My experience also had me get a new case from BOB'S. The casting did need some reworking as it was probably made from a mold of an original. I had to make bushings for the repro switches in order for it to work smoothly. I had the same problem as you as the micarta back plate had burned out sections.
I drilled out the contact rivets and made custom fit ones of brass to be on the proper contact plane. Leif Holmberg sent me some information and parts from Sweden. (Thanks again Leif!)Then filled the burned depressions with Super Glue. Once back together it works great.
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Hentzee:
I know about the speedometer issues as mine is also very fragile. I believe when we spoke over the phone I mentioned about trying to PRINT out a copy (3-D Printer) of the drum yoke that was badly swollen on the big series speedometer I bought to experiment with. Of course the other issues can be the crumbling case.
Will keep you posted.
Larry
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zeke01
Thanks for the tip and I checked their site but there in nothing even close to what is to be in my 1925-25. The photo of the gage face should be nickeled but this is about 1/2" larger than what I need. It has a long heavy steel wire looped about a pivot pin and the cork float attached at the end. Also pictures of what mine looked like and what I made up.
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Mark:
Thanks for the tip. I will start a search.
Larry
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Congratulations. You at least have a gas gage! Mine was missing on my 1925-25 and the bezel was split. There was just warped piece of plastic for a lens and filled with silicone. I made a new bezel from aluminum and a new lens/gaskets. But I still need a gage unit. I borrowed one from a neighbor with a 1924-45 to use as a pattern but it is 1/2 inch larger than what mine is to be. The threaded collar from the tank was very out of round probably from the former owner trying to remove it with a pipe wrench. It took quite a bit of work to get it round again so I could thread on the new bezel.
So until the time I find a gage the "stick" will have to do.
Larry
Difficulty selecting gear on a 1926 Standard Six
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Last week I was redoing the cobbled up brakes (steel split rivets) with properly counter sunk and set brass rivets, new tires and repainting the two wheels on the drivers side. Today I adjusted the brakes, filled the transmission which was about 1/2 pint low and went for a drive. Of course I started out in the same fashion but every shift up or down afterward was quite positive with a minimum of clash. Thank God for small victories! This week I will change out the old radiator for the re-cored one I had made last year to hopefully cure the chronic overheating.
I guess we have to just keep at it!
Larry