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dibarlaw

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Posts posted by dibarlaw

  1. Mark:

    This past summer I was begging people on the forum to get the 1925 md 54 sport roadster parts car in New York before he had it crushed. Had to take it all $400. Way to far for me to get and nothing fit my car. I believe it is all gone now. Tom Black had told me about it.

    Dave :

    Thinking more of a roadster pickup.

    The Bonehead in Tennessee who was hot-rodding the 1925-24 roadster and did not get enough for the entire driveline parts on e-bay sent all to scrap. He got $158.00! I tried to buy the left over top irons just to get the rear window frame. He wouldn't sell. I think the tragic final project was sold with out a top anyway. Just what you could have used to do a roadster version.

    Now I really need to come down for a visit!

  2. Hidden hunter:

    The 33" is what is on my 1925-25 and the reference I have from the April 1971 AACA Antique Automobile Dave Chambers article also verifies this. Same for 1925-1928. even the old Gates#840.

    The adjuster mount and hub should be towards the manifold side of the engine. The fan should be centered to the radiator.

    Larry

    post-79073-143142416758_thumb.jpg

  3. Dave:

    Congratulations! Now if I can only find a 1925 Standard parts car. I did follow a couple of leads but they turned out to be a 26. My mind always turns to a pickup.

    I have the new hub for your fan in the lathe so it is coming along. Since the "polar vortex" still has us in its grip basement work is in order.

    Larry

  4. Hidden Hunter

    The fan on my 1925-25 was very loose and I thought it was leaking and soaking the leather belt. When I took it apart it was packed with crusty grease. I bored out the cast iron body and machined bronze bearings. The main shaft gear was good and the fiber gear which helps distribute the oil along the shaft was also good. This part was available from BOBS. After I reinstalled, all seemed to work well for a while then it seemed it was still leaking. So I simply made a replacement interior body of aluminum, new shaft and sealed bearings. Construction article in the Service tips book sold by the BCA or in a 1987? Buick Bugle article. I also did a patent search and have the US patent drawings for this type of unit.

    Larry

    236794d1393690666-1931-buick-series-50-cooling-fan-dscf1722-1280x1192-.jpg236795d1393690727-1931-buick-series-50-cooling-fan-dscf1721-1280x960-.jpg236796d1393690729-1931-buick-series-50-cooling-fan-dscf1719-1280x1035-.jpg

  5. Barry:

    The fan on my 1925-25 was very loose and I thought it was leaking and soaking the leather belt. Yours should have a "V" belt. When I took it apart it was packed with crusty grease. I bored out the cast iron body and machined bronze bearings. The main shaft gear was good and the fiber gear which helps distribute the oil along the shaft was also good. This part was available from BOBS. After I reinstalled, all seemed to work well for a while then it seemed it was still leaking. So I simply made a replacement interior body of aluminum, new shaft and sealed bearings. Construction article in the Service tips book sold by the BCA or in a 1987? Bugle article. I also did a patent search and have the patent drawings for this type of unit.

    Larry

    post-79073-143142411679_thumb.jpg

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  6. Leon:

    Thanks for your input. I had purchased my 1925-25 after the Sept 2010 Bugle article showing your restoration journey on your stunning McLaughlin. I have well thumbed the pages! I think that issue prompted me to go after my 25-25. Still much to be done but I do drive it. I still would like to move up to the larger model 45. I was negotiating on a 1926-45 but turns out to be a 1926-45A enclosed touring with some engine issues.

    The 1924 was to me way over accessorized. I would have removed some of the things. Such as the horns. Over all the car was in great shape The heirs of the owner said he had it re-restored to his taste. Hence the "resale red". I have more painful photos of the flipped manifold and oil filter set up, cobbled up heater installation etc. Bright John Deere Green engine. I believe the photo of the Black (correct color) car is the same car before its re-restoration. Still lots of accessories. One thing I did like was how he installed turn signals and brake lights.

    Larry

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  7. Barry:

    Great to see your progress. We just signed up a new member in the Mason-Dixon Buick club who has a 1931 96-S Sport Coupe'. Have you tried the Buick Club forum to find your wheels?

    I would love to attempt a cross country trip in my 1937 Buick. We did 1,553 mile trip to the Buick nationals in South Bend. If time was not an issue we would drive it to the 2014 Buick Nationals in Portland Oregon. Good luck with your trip and keep us posted.

    Larry

  8. Leon:

    Thanks for the post with photos. I am always impressed with the "Cut Above" fit and finish in the McLaughlin Buicks. A 1924-45 I bid on in Sept 2012 (I was the high bidder but did not meet the reserve) had the same Rail as shown on your car. It was even fitted with a rear windshield. My little Standard takes the simpler one. But it looks fine with the fold down one now. Pictures of the car I bid on below.

    post-79073-143142404921_thumb.jpg

    post-79073-143142404913_thumb.jpg

  9. Hidden--hunter:

    The degreaser will only degrease, You need to soak it in a penetrating oil product that breaks down the rust bond. And do it for several days and

    not for several hours. It works slowly. All the parts of this unit are removable. The fan hub may need rebuilt since you mention looseness. Is there

    movement front to back or were you referring to just the belt tension?

    Best Regards:

    Larry in USA

  10. Well it finally got up to about 40 degrees here last week so I installed the footrest in the 25. Now I will have to take and post some pictures of the temporary one I had powder coated to see if we can encourage a trade. In the meantime I am still looking for the robe rail.

    So a photo of the correct footrest installed.post-79073-143142401399_thumb.jpg

    A photo of the robe rail I am looking for.post-79073-143142401408_thumb.jpg

    The style of what I have now for trade. Can anyone identify what it belongs to? post-79073-143142401417_thumb.jpg

  11. hidden--hunter:

    Great to hear from another standard owner. My 1925 also overheats and we are still working thru these issues. The exhaust manifold valve (Part #192510) being stuck closed will indeed add to overheating problems. I would suggest soaking the unit in a penetrating solution. I believe there is a acetone/ATF mixture others on the forum recommend. Let it soak for several days. Then carefully tap with a brass hammer the shaft ends and also use a hardwood dowel tapping it against the butterfly plate. Patients will win out !! If it does not move, repeat. Last resort will be to carefully use a torch.

    The fan should be 4 blade and is slightly adjustable to align the flat belt to the lower pulley. Send more photos as you can. We have to get you back on the road.

    Larry

  12. John:

    Just an update on the 1922 Buick Touring that we worked on. I am to be in contact with a new owner who bought it from Boyle Buick. I hope that I can fill in some blanks for him. Seems the new owner and the dealer had no idea of all the extra parts that were available at the time we were there.

    Stay tuned.

    Larry

  13. Great when you come across things that for years you had assumed to be correct then have been re-educated. I came across an old Antique car calendar from 1972 and this was described as a 1915 6 cylinder Buick. But really looks like the 4 cylinder 1918 E-37. Even my Gunnell's 3rd edition of Standard Catalog of Buick has massive amounts of miss-information. Mostly incorrectly identified photos. More interesting on this print is that it shows the exterior frames in natural wood. I am still not convinced that is the way it should be. Could be an artists rendition of a 1960s restoration. I know my 1918 catalog shows no enclosed bodies on the 4 cylinder chassis to be able to check. I would think Buick would have to have sent an advance pamphlet to dealers. As this was a mid year addition.

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  14. Just got off the phone from Doo Dah America. He was checking to see if we still had power after the ice storms. All is well in Franklin county.

    Thought I would post some of the pictures of the aforementioned foot rests. Since we had a snow day and I had some time between bouts of chipping ice. I thought I would finish the foot rest for my 1925-25.

    post-79073-143142381667_thumb.jpg

    post-79073-143142381674_thumb.jpgThe last two photos show how I had to use a center punch to collapse the badly pitted 1" steel tubing to get it to pull away from the cast aluminum ends. What was unexposed showed nickel plating. The crack on the aluminum ends was started probably when the spiral drive rivets were installed when new. Of course with the corrosion making the hole smaller and the pipe larger. Also had to drill out the 1/4" rivets that the ends pivot on the floor mounts. I filed off the drive rivet heads, punched them out into the tube. Then I was able to carefully tap with a hardwood block until the two pieces separated.

    I repaired the cracks with "Molecular Bonder" glue product and used a hose clamp to get back into shape. Then used some "JB weld" as a filler.

    The replacement 1" tube I tried to find locally at a plumbing supply house. I would have had to buy a 24' length! I went to LOWES instead and bought a nickel/chrome look adjustable shower rod. Leif Holmberg from Sweden verified that the ends should be black. With the ends painted up it looks quite serviceable. I had a sufficient length of heavy wall stainless steel pipe but it would have weighted well over 5 lbs.

    Thanks again to Terry Weigand for his participation in the Footrest exchange program.

    Larry

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