dibarlaw
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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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Found on the AACA General forum. The poster wanted an ID. I thought it may be a 1925-45A enclosed Touring. But what a neat visor!
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Looks to be a 1925-45A 5 passenger Touring with the Permanent top and glass window enclosures. The radiator shell front edges are sharper on 1925s than 1926-27. In another thread on the Buick Pre-war forum.we are discussing the interesting visors.
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This is how my 1925 Buick standard Touring rode from Ogdensburg NY. to Chambersburg PA. (5-6 Hrs.) Just a few wrinkles in the gypsy side fabric. But again, not a show car.
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Kevin:
I would love to see a period advertisement to see what this was to look like. Neat accessory! Anyone have a 1920s catalog showing this type of visor?
Of course here are photos of the local 1925-25 we worked on with its visor.
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Michael:
I believe a competent machine shop can straighten things out to your satisfaction. Again thanks for the music!! We were playing the CD while on the BCA Pre-war After tour at Portland. We had a 1930 Roadster with us to complete the effect.
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We did a tour to the Rural heritage Museum south of Hagerstown MD. Thanks to all who attended. We had a 15 in our group and all indicated a great time. A beautiful spring day and plenty do and see.
Unfortunately only 4 of us from the Mason-Dixon Chapter
. If our 1925 made it to this event (80 mile round trip) I feel more confident of its attendance at our June 20th Freysinger show at Mechanicsburg Pa..Best to all:
Larry DiBarry
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Thanks for putting this out there. I have a made up in the 1970s (whatever was handy) oval muffler which is to be round on my 1925 standard. It is too loud and does need replaced. I would like to replace with a more correct style but would like it to muffle!
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Thanks Dave. Hope springs eternal. But again I believe they will want a price well above my limit. The longest wheelbase 1915 roadster was the model 54 6 cylinder.
130"WB, Price $1,635, 3, Weight 3,400 lbs. Only 352 made!
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Ltc4748 has just indicated that he has the car running well and had a splendid time doing so. He seems very skilled and did a fine job of bringing it back to life.
I visited him this past Saturday to look the car over and try to evaluate if I would like to make an offer. We still have to get our offer to the owners and see if they will consider selling privately. It looks to be a very solid car even with the cream body and red wheels. (Original Colors to be Blue/Black). The top was very nice and there are side curtains. The nickel plating was polished off or removed long ago. Tires looked good but are probably 40 years old. I would love to have this one for the brass era tours!
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After soaking in solvent for a week I finally started to disassemble the carb. Only broke one screw in the brass bowl. I was able to drill it out. The rest came apart easily and will clean up well. Dash pot, plunger, spring, venturi block all in good shape. The metering pin and rod link were missing.
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carmover
Sorry about your carb issues. Mine still seems to be holding its own. I still have to get the one I purchased on e-bay apart to inspect. I have had it soaking for about a week now. I will see if I can get it apart to consult as to your issues. Also I would like to compare to mine on the car since this one is supposed to be for a master.
Best of Luck:
Larry
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Ltc4748
I live an hour and 10 minutes south west from Hershey at Chambersburg. I don't know if you live north, east, west but I would love to see the car.
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Leon:
I did get the Marvel carb. I don't know the internal condition until I receive it. I will see if I can get it serviceable for the fellow nearby.
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Leon:
Thanks for posting. I guess I will try on it for the fellow who we worked on his fathers 1925-45. The carb was a pretty cobbled up mess. More work....
Larry
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Karl:
Nice to know that you can be found on the Forum. I have bought quite a few items over the years from you at your stand at Fayetteville. We still have to get together to finish outfitting my 1925 and 1937 Buicks.
Hope to see you soon...
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I drive my 1925 Buick standard Touring on the local back roads in central Pa. Route 11 north and south usually has spots up to 55 mph. It is pretty wound out at 45mph. So to get to our Mason-Dixon June 20th car show up at Mechanicsburg Pa makes it a 1 1/2 hour drive on country roads. In 2013 I drove our 1937-41 Special to the Buick Nationals at South Bend Ind. 100 + degree heat most of the trip and it definitely did not like the mountains. Once we got to the flat land in Ohio it was happy at 55 all day. Whenever we edged up to 60 the temp also climbed up. There are times that I can not find a parallel side road and driving at 60+ on an interstate is quite unnerving. I have to start planning my route to Springfield Missouri for this years Buick Nationals. Driving the 1937.
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John:
Thanks for keeping us informed as to progress. Joan and I were wondering what the Llamas thought about this upheaval in their lives. We see that at least one is taking things in stride.
It got up to 50 degrees yesterday so I started and ran both the 1925 and the 1937 Buicks for about a 1/2 hour.
My alley is still too sloppy to take them out.Larry
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Kevin:
I had some success tonight. I saved most of the internals, at least enough to make up some patterns. (Venturi block is pretty rough) The pin holding the link from the plunger to the air vane was the toughest to get apart. The plunger was full of sludge. I set the brass barrel in the 3 jaw chuck on the lathe then drilled and tapped the end of the plunger starting with a 4-40 then kept working up to 10-32. I was finally able to get a good bearing to be able to use a 3 1/4" 10-32 screw to use as a puller. Even drilled out the broken screw out of the casting and save that thread! (Where the jet section bottom plate attaches.) Of course the spring was toast. If I am ever able to re-use this cast iron section I will use a cylinder hone to clean up the inside bore. I just wanted to prove that I could do it.
Thanks again for the cold weather diversion.
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I have a partial carb given to me by Oregon Desert 45. I have been trying to save some of the internals. I had sent him a PM about de-rusting by Electrolysis. He asked what I was using.. Hence this response..
An old battery charger, a non conductive container.(a 1 gallon milk jug worked)
but I have some Tupperware containers that I use. "Washing Soda" found at the grocery store. A sacrificial piece of steel. Google "Rust removal by electrolysis" and you should find many explanations, recipes etc. I collected antique carpenter tools and I have used this method successfully to remove rust from old planes hand saw blades and such. So I thought I would try it on the carb. But of course with a combination of iron, brass and the die cast composition results so far are disappointing. The air vane plunger being the most problematic since it has swollen in the brass barrel. I still have hopes to get most of the air vane out. Most of the venturi block came out last night. The die-cast material "creeps" and grows into the rusted cast iron. Please note the safety procedures and precautions as you are dealing with water/electricity and toxic explosive vapors.
I will post on the forum since the PM will not let me upload a photo.
Best regards and be careful!!!
Larry
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Ah... the endless quest to safely and completely remove rusted fasteners. After my 1937 Special sedan came back from a shop doing a "driver restoration". Promised to be ready to be able to drive to the Buick Nationals 2012 in Concord North Carolina. Well it was finally returned to me in Sept 2012 with the comment that they had done all the heavy lifting and I just needed to do some"tweeking". After nearly 9 months of "tweeking" and re-doing much and finding things overlooked. I thought I would check the operation of the thermostat and found that one bolt was snapped off and just glued in with Blue RTV. From the photos I took of the ordeal it simply infuriated me knowing that they had the front nose off to have the Radiator redone?? Not easy to notice with the radiator and hood in place. I don't believe they snapped off the bolt (could have been there before I bought the car in 1987), but simply ignored it. I assure you the drilling out /re-tapping job would have been tremendously easier without the radiator and hood. Just one of many little ordeals which needed to straightened out on what was promised.
Re-tapping in really tight quarters.
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As I recall mine is brass and could be sleeved and soldered. Sorry about your luck. The whole unit could be fabricated from brass round and flat stock then machined.
Larry
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Bob:
The contact problem was a bit touchy as it was burned on the ignition side. So I had to make new contact pins. I filled in the burned micarta spots with super glue.
The new switch levers from "BOB's" fit very sloppy in the bores and I made some bushings for a smoother fit /operation.
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I had to use a strip of abrasive cloth and work over it like a polishing cloth when shinning shoes. Does any one remember shining shoes? I did get mine out in mostly one piece. I used the repro from "BOB's" as a replacement which is a bit smaller. They probably just made a mold from an original without building it up to allow for shrinkage. All rebuilt with new switches it works great. I believe I have some old posts describing what I had done. Or can repost my photos.
Larry
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Buck up laddie! We had a 2 hour delay (-7 here), now up to 1' better bundle up and get on my bike for my ride to school.
Keep warm :
Larry
Avanti R2, 1963, refresh
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
John:
My envy of your shrine to the mechanical is only matched by my envy of a 1920s Buick Touring with a beautiful fitted top AND... fitted side curtains.
We can't wait to get down to visit.
Larry