dibarlaw
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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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Are these from a Master or Standard? If they are from a Standard I may be interested in the Bumper set.
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Looks like a really nice car. Could be a late season sport roadster 25-24S since it has a visor and dual spares.
I tried to buy the leftovers from a 1925-24 rat rod project. Originally a partial restoration in which the owner had passed. All the guy wanted was the frame and body. What original parts he was selling on e-bay was; the rebuilt engine with transmission and torched off torque tube, rear axle, front axle and 4 wheels. He also had the top which I tried to buy separately just for the rear window. When I asked about the bumpers he said he "cut them up for the flat stock". According to the listing all items were sold except the top and the rear tire carrier which I offered to buy but he refused. He said after a week no one sent money so he hauled all to the scrap and got $158.00! I know I have expounded about this on the forum before but this just reminded me. It still hurts.
The ad needs a little more information and photos of the engine and interior..... I think I will ask.
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I like the part of the historic description near the end that states that "$500.00 non refundable due at the end of the auction". I hate buyers /sellers premiums or what ever people want to disguise them as. I have attended auctions for over 45 years. I do understand that the auctioneer is to get their cut for doing the work, which is subtracted from the final amount due the seller. It does not indicate what the $500 is for.
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Tony:I know I don't have a right hand car but the placement for the starter generator should be the same as on Leif's and my LH 25-25. I had only the carb (left) side splash pan when I bought my car. I found a set on e-bay and I had them sand blasted and powder coated.. I have not had a chance to install them. And yes the pans do mount on top of the engine flange. I hope my photos help.
Best of luck :
Larry
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I just found the info on the Pittsburgh company. Universal Carnegie Mfg. 1-800-867-9554 66A Arch Street Extension. Carnegie, PA 15106 www.ucvintagerad.com
My re-core does have more tubes and fins than the old unit.
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Just saw the post and it is gone for over $15,000.. And it was within 2 states away from me! I remember this car being offered several years ago also. Nice car . Not crazy about the coffee-2 creams interior color.
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Jeff:
The fellow near me is at KEYSTONE RADIATOR.717-264-6911. He is in a one man shop. I know he got the cores for the 37 and my1925 from a place in Pittsburgh. At Hershey last fall I believe I talked to the people who were doing these cores from there. I misplaced their contact folder. There is also POWELL Radiator Service in Wilmington Ohio 937-382-2096 . This information I had from a 2010 Hemmings publication. I hope this helps.
Larry
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Roj:
So nice to see the car out in the sunlight. It is good to know it went to a Buick loving home. The previous owner and I almost had a deal at a lower price until he got it running. Then it jumped out of my price range. Have you sourced out the front brakes yet? I remember he said the fronts had been converted to hydraulics. Best of luck with the car. If it comes to Trimcar's place for a top I hope I can visit it there.
Larry
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John:
I did the same as you at the 2013 AACA spring meet after I was looking over yours and saw this stunning Blue Beauty. Quite a stylish car. Yes I fantasized about driving it and spoke to Merle at length about it. Sorry to hear of his passing.
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Last week on e-bay there were some gages for 1920s Buicks an assortment of 1924-28 speedometer, oil, amp etc. and also a roll of film on these cars. There was a rusty round AC speedometer with a broken out glass which looks to be the same as my 25's. and an oval heat/choke plate for the 1925 standard. When I saw the listing it was already over my limit over what I would spend only to have to sell off the other items. So I did not bid. Of course with an assortment of stuff like this no one knows what the ultimate bidder was really interested in.
I would be interested in the round AC speedometer to see if it is rebuild able and the oval heat/choke plate. Please P.M. if you can help
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Leif: :
We hope we will be driving the 37 to Tennessee in September for a 1936-1938 Tour. I still have to change the manifold gaskets. I wanted to make sure I had the overheating problem solved before I did the manifold.
Our weather in Pennsylvania has been the best in some years. But it is promising to be in the 90+ F heat and very humid the next week. Just in time for our "Macungie" swap meet which is usually hot and humid.My friend Terry Wiegand in Kansas has already had many days at over 100+F heat and high humidity. I had the 1925 out today for a 7 mile drive. Beautiful day. Now I have to get to those gaskets on the 37....
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Yesterday I reinstalled the re-cored radiator. I had to clean up the sides and mounting area and did some touch up. When the shop put in my new wiring harness apparently they already replaced the radiator and routed the wires on the engine side over top of the radiator. So while the radiator was out I took the opportunity to route the harness correctly to the front side of the frame where the clips are. Made for a much neater appearance.Today I took the 37 out for about a 10 mile drive. 85 degree day here. Just doing weekend errands. Stop and go in traffic pulled some grades on route 30 west of Chambersburg. Had it at 50 mph for a time and my temp gage stayed around 160 through all conditions. Even after hot shut down the temp did not go above 180 degrees. The Gano filter did already pick up some stuff. Hope this is the final solution to the problem. -
I had flushed out the block after the 2nd treatment of the EVAPO RUST, with about 10 gallons of water at hose pressure. All came out clean but the water had the same yellow green tint as the ER. Yesterday the radiator was plumbed in. I ran the engine for 40 minutes at idle and it seemed to not go above 170 on the gage. -
Joe:
Been there .. done that. I think this has happened to us about 4 times. Except once it was only a 2 hour drive. Another time it was arranged that I was to stop by to inspect a partially restored 1918 E-45 in West Virginia. We called a half hour away and all was good. By the time we arrived the owner changed his mind and would not even let us see the car. That was only 3 hours out of our way.
We had a 9 hour drive back from a pre-arranged purchase of a 1923-54 sport Roadster. Agreed upon price and check in my pocket and just had to wait for the transporter. Called the owner the day before (Thursday) and said we would inspect, test drive and pick up the car tomorrow (Friday). He said that was great and would see us when we arrived around noon. Since he was self employed he would be free. We arrived at his place at 11:30 A.M. Prior to our arrival we had called every hour from 9:00 on to make sure he was available. No answer .... We drove back 15 miles to the town where his office was and was not anywhere to be found. By 2:00 we finally made contact.. He said he thought we were coming.... tomorrow.....and the car was not ready yet. He did say that he could be at his place within an hour and that we could remove the tarp and check out the car. The car was exactly what Joan and I wanted. When he finally arrived at 3:30 and we could calm down from our rage. I said I had the check and still wanted the car... lets go for a drive in it.... Then the excuses started about all the "sorting out " work that needed to be done which I assured him I wanted to take care of. But he did state that the car was drivable as per our agreement. Well, he could not even start it let alone be able to drive. So that was our 9 hour return trip experience.
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I have the exact situation with my 37-41. I have the "Peep Mirror" type. I have tried it on several locations on the top edge and the front . There are areas where a clamp on mirror will not fit. Even a front seat passenger has difficulty using them.
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Time for me to jump in the fray. As I just snugged up the packing gland nut on my 1925-25 after a 4 mile run to church on a 90 degree day. Motometer just above cool motor. It was dribbling out as I pulled into the garage. Lost about a cup of coolant. I watch and accept this as I still have not gotten around to making up a new shaft. My car's shaft is pretty scored up. I know it would seal better with a smooth polished surface. There must be some happy medium on this issue. I know thru the spring I drove the car nearly hundred miles total and there was hardly a drip and very seldom had to snug up the nut (usually the front one toward the radiator.) Now after my hot summer runs it always needs attention.
I drove it last month to our car show at Mechanicsburg. 51 miles total and about 4 miles from the Freysinger dealership where the show is located the temp began to climb. While stopped at a red light I noticed this and hopped to get to the dealership not wanting to stop on the 5 lane urban roads. When I pulled into Freysinger's customers service bay where I was to store the car, the coolant was shooting out of the front packing. It took about a full turn to stop the leak. I had lost about a gallon of coolant. On my return trip home I made it a point to sop and check at abut 25 miles distance. No dripping but I did snug up the nut about 1/8 of a turn just to make sure. Just had a bit of a drip when I got her home. So it may be time to add more packing.
Also if one looks closely at photos of 1920s and earlier cars on showroom floors they always seem to have a drip pan under them!
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Dave :
Clean all connections and check them for physical and electrical connectivity. My friend Dave Evans in Portland was having the same issues with his 1925-20 starter generator. Then conked out entirely trying to drive from his parking spot to the registration space at the Portland national last year. He had no tools with him and all I had was the cheap emergency kit set in my KIA. Checking what he had was pretty much original to 1925.Starter to switch. Gen to ammeter was pretty well aged and crumbling. Some loose connections. Battery cables showing signs of the lovely green Galvanic corrosion within the cable. I removed and cleaned all In could and tightened up some crimp connections. When we tried it again it turned over as it should and started but not as fast as my 1925-25 does. Since then he has replaced all the old cables and wire. He tells me now it really spins twice as fast as it did prior to the change.
Starter brushes could also need attention.
I had a slow turning starter on my 1937 special. Before I bought new cables I took the replacement end on the positive to battery cable, splayed out the individual copper strands then cleaning and scraping them. After I replaced the cable end clamp the starter spun as it should.
If you can go one gage heavier for your cable, Do it. A little resistance here... and a little resistance there... = no start.
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These tops are placed in this (Folded at rest position) at the more vertical angle is because otherwise one would have to partially raise the top to put gas in the tank. Not a problem with a touring car.
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I attended to the by-pass valve before I even tried to drive to Springfield. I consulted my old 37-38 Torque Tube magazines from the early 90s about how they were to preform and how to check. I was thinking that if it was removed it may be contributing to the engine running hot (usually 185 degrees). When I opened up the thermostat housing the valve was there and all was in good shape, just needed removed and cleaned up. The spring had good tension and appeared solid.(the rest of the pieces were brass). Again, my most serious problem was the plugged radiator.
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Gene my radiator man called this morning to say the new core arrived. Unfortunately it was damaged and it will go back and he should have a replacement on Monday.
As a note to the EVAPO RUST treatment. When I drained out the system after 3 days the 1 gallon that drained from the block (almost 2 gallons fill the engine and head) was black. When I opened the lower block drain the chemical was still yellow green. So I attached a long hose off of the top of the thermostat housing to go into a drain pan, added the pulley and belt.and ran the engine until the temp was about 190 to get things circulating and hot. The hot EVAPO RUST that was pumped out I re-strained and returned to top off the block. I will do this again tomorrow.
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Terry:
This is what I did with the 37.
1st photo is what was strained from the radiator before I removed it.
2nd photo is my set up with the spigot. The 6" piece of clear hose was black overnight.
3rd // is of the catch pan with the washer hose that is connected to the spigot draining into the pan.
4th // is what the E-R looked like after 3 days;
5th // is my assortment of microfiber filters. The very yellow ones are from the E-R draining
6th // is what I have accumulated thus far from all the flushing of the block and radiator. Probably at least the same amount ended up in the yard and down the driveway.
I believe I told you all I did today so the HOT strained E-R is now back in the engine for another try. I will probably leave it in till Friday this time and start the engine again on Thursday to repeat the hot treatment.
Best of luck to us!
Larry
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Gene, my radiator man, gave me the bad news that after cooking and pulling the tanks he could only open 5 tubes by rodding out the core. So a re-core is now underway. He quoted me $460.00. The re-core for my 1925 Standard was over $900.00 for a modern type core.
To night I will drain the EVAPO-RUST from the block and see what I get. I will flush out and filter the EVAPO-RUST to be reused as they recommend. It turns from a light yellow green to black as it absorbs the oxides from the iron. Stay Tuned.
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I applaud Brian for putting this out before the group and agree with letting it gain some momentum on the Pre-War forum first.
At the Springfield Nationals there was some discussion on this subject.in our group. I got wrapped up in other things and did not put it out at the general membership meeting. Anything that promotes bringing out the earlier Buicks gets my support.
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Not to nit pick, but the article indicates that this was originally a canvas topped 4 door car (CX-25) that was converted to a UTE (pick up ) in 1931. Still it is a great family piece to have. Although Larry really does have a real Buick Truck!
1925 Buick Roadster on C/L - MN $17,500
in Buick - Buy/Sell
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I spoke to the gentleman (a BCA member since the 1960s) and he was very knowledgeable about all 1925 Standards. We spent over an hour on the phone comparing notes. It seems that he had owned I believe 6 1925 Standards of various body styles over the years. The car is a regular 1925-24 with some of the sport roadster accessories added. He said the car was originally black and was repainted yellow in 1961 by a former owner. I am still waiting for other info.
I wish I had met him when I bought my touring in October 2011.