dibarlaw
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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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I pulled the water-pump apart and checked. The impeller was tight on the shaft. Good news! The radiator shop that closed had just downsized(used to do auto glass also)and moved down the road 5 miles. So the radiator is now cooking in his tank. After I pulled it last night I did an upside down garden hose flush and got another 1/2 handful of hard scale/rust. I still can hear junk rattling around in the tanks even after that.
We will see what "Gene" my radiator man finds. The removal took me and my wife about 3 hours. The worst thing was removing the rear hold down for the hood center strip. Had to remove the glove box to remove the cowl vent drain and the defroster hoses to get to it. The service bulletin only mentions removing the front. I did and the strip would not budge and did not wish risking damage to the hood sides.
I spoke with Terry Weigand at length about using EVAPO-RUST to do the final cleaning of the block. He is going to use the same product on his 1916's block.
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will be pulling the radiator today. I know that Larry S means well but the thought of filling my system with bleach and letting it get hot and steaming or spilling over all the painted surfaces on my 37 is something that is not controllable. Ruining all the stuff I have already detailed. On his 1915 Truck things are more open and accessible.I have already done the CLR treatment and have flushed twice since. When it boiled over last night I could still smell the stuff. I would have liked to flush the radiator in place as this is an all day job of removal. Hood, stay rods, water pump/fan, thermostat housing all have to be removed and the radiator just has enough space to be tipped back and slid out. As apposed to our earlier cars. I can get the radiator out of the 25 in just about 25 minutes. About the same time to reinstall. Mark said just to pull it out, turn upside down, back flush and check for flow. He also has a 1938 and it is just as much of a terror to remove that radiator. I did buy a GANO filter to put in the upper radiator hose to be able to trap any left over crud from the block cleaning operation from getting back into the radiator.
Our last old line radiator shop in Chambersburg closed up this past winter. They had re-cored my 1925 radiator and did the clean out and re-soldering of the filler neck on the 1937s gas tank. So now I have at least an hours drive to get to the next place recommended instead of 1 1/2 miles away.
The most upsetting /frustrating part of this is that the shop that was doing the work on the car (promised to be ready to be driven to the 2012 Nationals) was to have all this done while the front end was off. They were also to take care of a broken manifold stud (which was done) and new gaskets installed. I already have to redo that job. They were to clean out the block before reinstalling the new freeze plugs. The radiator was to sent out and be redone. They said their "guy" said all was good except that the lower cast iron fitting was seeping and he could not do anything with it. From what I could see after reassembly the radiator looked as if it had not been touched. Same 76 year old crud and rust on the bottom tank/frame.
I wish I could be a trusting person again. But I think these folks have jaded me. But to quote them when we would ask questions about why something was not done. "this isn't our first rodeo". Photos attached while the car was at their shop
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I have done all as suggested. But since I will be pulling the radiator today I will check the water pump impeller also. I had already flushed the engine and radiator together and separately. One of the first things I did was to put an old fire hose that fit from the top of the water pump and let it run into a wash tub. Filled the radiator, started the engine and made sure the pump was pumping. It was moving water but I don't know what GPM output would be, It did seem sluggish to me.
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Thanks all:
I thought I made some progress today. I back flushed the radiator again with a pressure flusher attachment. I did get some more crud out and all seemed clear. So I buttoned it up and refilled with water. I ran it at idle for a half hour and the temp did not go above 180. So I took her for a short drive. By the time I went 2 miles it was over 200 again. Just made it back to the garage before it turned into a tea kettle again. So tomorrow we will try another of your suggestions.
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I will try again... I spent nearly an hour on setting up what I had already done to trouble shoot and alleviate my overheating issues. Then all I had typed disappeared!!!!!
Cut to the chase.. Today I ran the engine till it was just starting to overheat(10 minutes)
Then pulled the plugs and did a compression check. A friend who does heads said that it sounded like a possible head gasket problem. No water in the oil. No white smoke.
My readings. Using a rubber grommet type tester. With a threaded in tester readings should be a bit better. I did them twice. Engine has 106,650 miles on it.
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
85# 85# 85# 85# 85# 85# 85# 90#
To me the head gasket should be good. I just want to cover all the bases before I pull the radiator. I believe on the hard pulls over the mountains on our aborted trip to Springfield caused some sludge from the block to stop up the radiator. Block was to be cleaned out before new freeze plugs were to be installed. The radiator was to be redone at that time also. But from my experience with the shop that did this work I am doubtful.
I had already checked the operation of the by-pass valve. I have tried to back flush the block and the radiator. (Only about a 1/2 handful of sediment.)and (What came out of the block drain was very brown). I will do again today.
I was planning on addressing a manifold gasket leak and did not want to do all this work to get the manifold resurfaced then new gaskets and then have to go back pull the head also. So while I have the manifold off I guess I will pull the new freeze plugs and check for any internal crud that was missed.
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Third time is the charm. I finally got the 1925 to our Freysinger Buick GMC show at Mechanicsburg PA. 2013 Overheated.
2014 The clutch died. So we had a 100 mile round trip and no issues except when the water pump packing nuts loosened on the way up. Note to self. Check them every 25 miles or so. She got first place in class and oldest car.(It helps when you only have 2 entries!) Now if I can only get the 1937 happy again after our aborted trip to Springfield.
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Brian:
Here is a photo I took of your ride in Terry's 1920. I got to drive it last year!
Larry
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Hugh:
During the 2014 Buick nationals I took this photo of Dan Evans's 1925 standard sedan with about 13,000 original miles. We believe that the body does appear to have original paint. It is the same Brewster green as our 25-25 is to have. From what I have seen on my 25, mine was originally black. (also available) Eventually I plan on repainting it to the green.
Larry
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Hugh:Leif Holmberg's photos of his car when he brought it home in 1967 show an unpainted aluminum cowl band.
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Congratulations Dave!
This experience is what I refer to as "BUICK BLISS" ! What a Lovely family you have.
Larry
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Would love to take advantage of this for my 1925 but from the front view there appears to be a separate generator. So this would be a 1926 engine.
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John:
Sorry we will miss you and Bea this year. We will be up to visit my daughter in Madison CT later this summer and maybe we can get together. As I will be officially retired,
Be well my friend.
Larry and Joan
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If you recall last year we followed you into the Columbia Gorge and met you at the Shell station, Our KIA had a tough time keeping up with you. These were our photos of the meeting, Thanks to all for the good wishes.
Larry
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My wife and I will be driving our 1937-41 from Chambersburg Pa.. It seems that no one else in our region will be coming along. At least not on a pre war friendly route. I have a fellow Mason-Dixon chapter member who will be driving his 1970 Estate Wagon but traveling on the interstates. We will be going through West Virginia and getting on route 60 and on through Kentucky. We will keep the roster handy in case.
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My 37-41 has a 10" O.D. 1 1/4" Hub I.D.10 spline. No one would rebuild / reline it since it was an aftermarket replacement. I found a good substitute in a 1960s international Scout clutch. I believe Harry Logan sent me a 10" disk with an 1 1/8 " I.D. 10 spline if anyone is in need.
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Bob:
This is what I did on my 25. At Lowes they had heavy wall chrome plated brass tubing for drains. I made an arbor to hold it between centers and Knurled the outside. Then made a press fit aluminum plug for the end. Hand cut and filed the slot. I have a spring inside to keep tension on the end of the crankshaft
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Tony:
Thanks for posting the photos as this is a job I will need to do on my 1925-25. I want to locate a timing gear set before I start pulling things apart. My camshaft/pulley seal does leak quite a bit. Everything on mine did leak a bit but after I redid the clutch now I am getting transmission oil from the lower cover.
Another mystery to solve.
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Tom:
So glad you were able to find a buyer. I hope your move goes smoothly. How much farther south is Clifton Park ? We would still like to stop sometime and visit on the way to our daughters in Conn.
Best Regards:
Larry
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We made the last 3 so Joan and I would like to be there. We will plan for it.
Larry
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In re-reading Leif's response it seems that I do have the same cover on my 1925 so I can try to copy mine to "print" out.
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Larry
Sorry to hear that you still need some other parts for his 24-45. I thought Mark came through with all he needed. I know when the former owner was looking for the same parts I tried to get them from the fellow with the 24-45 a mile away. I believe he still has quite a few spares but would not give up any. I will try again on the S/G cover. I know he had at least 4. The only way I got one from him was to convince him that it would only fit my 1925 Standard. Even then it is still pretty stripped out. I have asked if I could borrow the cover so I could do a 3-D drawing of it and "Print it out in plastic". I will try again.
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Mark:
I already contacted John about making me a set. After several calls. He said he could not. He said if he had a set in the collection of old top sockets he may be able to work something up. I already have a made up /cut down, incorrect set. At the same time I had inquired about doing a set for the 1923-55 that was advertised on the forum and the Bugle. (I was thinking hard about a big Sport Touring)! Just to see what a ballpark figure was. He did not seem interested. My guy here in Chambersburg quoted me a price for the bows for both cars. I guess he will make up a set for mid 20s cars if you have a bad set.
So I keep on looking.
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Earlier this week I had received a "Kit"of reproduction cast iron robe rail ends, stainless center tube and instructions from Gregg Lange. $85.00 Great fit and finish. I had a temporary robe rail which matched one from a 1928 Buick sedan. Leif Holmberg had given me the dimensions from his 1925-25 and I drilled accordingly. The temporary rail tube was shortened to fit these dimensions
I have installed my new Robe rail that Gregg has made up along with period foot rest brackets and is advertising in the 1915-1918 Buick newsletter.
Perfect fit! I had originally located and drilled the holes as Leif had told me. When I tried the new rail the upper holes matched perfectly! All I had to do was drill the bottom holes. As always thanks for your help. Now I have the correct rail (thanks to Gregg) and footrest (thanks to Terry Wiegand). I still have to a few things to correct. Like adding door pockets, check straps. I am still waiting for the fellow across from my work place (school) to make up a top boot and spare tire cover. He has had the material for over a year. The only big item I will always be trying to correct is to find the correct top irons/sockets. We have in my town a man who still makes the steam bent top bows and has the correct form for mine. But many of these craftsmen are retiring and quitting the business.
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Dave :
I would be right on this one except as I have been telling Terry W. These cars are all on the wrong coast. I have made an offer on the 1915 C-36 here in PA, but have not heard if they will consider it. Still I would rather have a touring. This one does seem to have potential.
What Is Your Favorite Buick Emblem???
in Buick - General
Posted
I have always been partial to the early script. Some day it is my wish to have a car that wears one like it.