dibarlaw
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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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Tony:
I have been running Autolite 3076s in my 1925-25. That was what was in the car when I bought it. Mark. Is the 3077 a hotter plug? Was the original AC Titan specified plug a 77L? A photograph in my 1925 Buick export manual shows a plug with a longer reach than the 11/16" from the gasket surface the 3076 has. I have a couple of AC Titans that look the same as this photograph with a reach of 1". They are 7/8" thread but with 1 1/8" hex which will not fit in the space on the head. The 3076 plug is a 7/8" thread with a 15/16" hex. I have an old 1936 Champion chart that has a # 6 plug specified for Buick up thru 1928. I have the old AACA Dave Chambers Buick articles from March/April 1971 and he makes no mention on what plugs to use only to widen the gap to 0.40 if you have lowered compression. Mine is down around 50 lbs.now.
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Dwight:
I agree with you. I have seen much more selection as far as wood wheels on e-bay. When I put in my search for 1925 Buick or 1920s Buick there has been quite a selection. Unfortunately most were not for Buicks or they were of a condition that their only value was in BTUs. I had an opportunity to buy a 1917 Buick D-44 Roadster that also had an assortment of extra parts. Among the parts were a set of 22" Buick wheels. I tried to buy just the wheels. Problem was that all was in California as a package. The 22" size is what belongs on my 1925 standard as some one in the past changed it to 21". (more tire availability) Once I offered on 2 wheels that only the spokes and hubs were left just so I could get the brake drums. My $40.00 bid was accepted but the shipping cost was to be over $275
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Any word on the 1915 C-37 as of yet?
3 weeks ago I went to drive a 1913-31 as the craigslist poster said that the car ran and drove (also said that it was a 1913-25). They wanted about double for what I would consider reasonable as to the degraded (not running) condition. A 1955 restoration that has sat in an unheated metal machinery shed for over 15 years. The car has probably not been on the road since before 2000. When I arrived the owner admitted that the car has not been started in over 4 years. (The lower radiator hose was disconnected) Even though when I called the day before we agreed that I would be coming to hear the car run and to drive it. (" But it always starts with 2 or 3 pulls of the crank")
This is the same story ... different day for me.
Every panel had cracked and peeling paint as well as all the rust pits on the fenders resurfaced. The clutch pedal was in the depressed position and would not return as if the main pressure spring was broken.I don't mind considering a project car for a project price. But when some are asking #1 condition prices for an obvious #4-5 car.
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I have e-mailed for photos but have not received an answer.
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My 1937 Special harness came from Rode Island. They have an excellent product and very good diagrams and instructions. My only problem was with the "restoration"? shop that ordered the harness without the turn signal wires . I requested one with them. When I found out that they had already installed the harness I was furious! But the owner said they would take care of it which they did... By charging me over $300 for extra wire and labor to cobble up the extra circuits with extra loom runs. I know that my car is a driver but I wanted to at least keep things looking correct.
Most importantly, make sure all your connections are clean. I spent days going over dirty, loose and a few incorrectly placed connections that the shop ignored. After spending over $20,000 with them the electrical system failed within 3 miles of my first drive and had to be towed home. Sorry about my rant but time has not healed me. -
Matt:
Thanks for posting this here and showing our presence. I received the Torque Tube II newsletter yesterday and was quite pleased with the look . Also The calendar looks great! I know I promised Joe Suarez several more articles and will send along to you.
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I guess I will have to crawl under my 1925-25 and take some measurements. And check for any numbers. What size are the drums? It definitely looks like a mid 1920s axle.
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Pete:
I will seek out the one I bought from "Bob's" over 25 years ago and I will send it to you if it is still good. My recommendation is that you have it scanned for reference in case we can get another jobber to do this. I will also scan for my benefit at least to have a copy. Send me the address you want it shipped to.
Larry
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Dwight:
Where are you located ? As I may have a lead on one near Baltimore.
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Pete :
Sorry to say I missed this. Is the screen printing on the glass ok? Or is it the metal gage cluster face that is rusty? I bought a repro face 25 years ago to redo mine but after carefully removing the bezel the original glass looked great. I just had to be careful cleaning it to avoid removing. any of the screen printed numerals. The metal cluster face is what took a lot of time and patients to re-do . I believe I took some photos and outlined the process. Also in the old Torque Tube Magazine there is an article doing the same.
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Still interested in seeing the photos if you can.
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motoringicons:
Sorry about my assumption as we were commenting about the same time. Apparently it did go to a Buick loving home although temporarily.
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Looking at the firewall from the engine compartment side, the car looks to have been green at one time. I keep seeing the descriptors "high quality no expense spared" applied to these ads. Also the green interior does not quite fit the color scheme. Not discrediting the design of the car or what the mechanics may be like, I simply recall that when working in a body shop 40 years ago if the hidden painted features did not match the exterior colors you were giving the customer a "slip shod job". And yes, I worked used car detail when the dealer would instruct me to repaint the car a more saleable color. Never mind under the hood etc.
Just saying that when you are asking this type of money there should be no excuses. I agree with John S that this car has already been advertised elsewhere. The cars we like, we tend to follow to hope they make it to a "Buick Loving Home". I keep seeing them going from dealer to dealer. Yesterday I just offered on a teens Buick on which the owner pulled a $ value from who knows where(about double value guide price for its non running condition) I offered more than the value guide price. His reply was that if he had to take less he would stick it back in the machinery shed and let it rot!
But then said he appreciated me coming out to inspect the car. He said that I was the only person sincerely interest in the car to drive. The only other calls were from brokers who wanted to list the car for him. Also they told him he had the car underpriced. -
tonybuick:
After I had my reflectors re-silver plated they actually put out pretty good light! At least it made my granddaughter smile.
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Tony:The 1926-27 rims do not match the 1925s We have the faceted reflectors and clear lens. The 26-27s have Tilt Ray lenses. The mounting is different as the screws at the bottom of the rims show.
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Just an update on the 1937. After putting on over 1,600 miles this summer, I am doing the seasonal cooling system flush/winter prep and have back flushed the radiator and block. I still had some residue of the "EVAPORUST" in the system (hopefully still doing its job) and what drained out was still rusty looking. More importantly the "Gano" filter caught quite a bit of sludge/rust particles. I must keep that newly re-cored radiator happy.
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Making sure that this for a Standard car since the Masters are larger and the 1924 has a double ended pointer. -
John:
I agree with your statement. Looks like this will be an agenda item at our Allentown meeting. As members of the PWD we should be pushing for this award.
A participation award.
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I have been asked by others who have participated in this thread subject to express my thoughts. First. Knowing what it takes to present a 100 year old car at a gathering (notice I did not say show) some form of recognition is warranted.
Second. My love for antique cars was begun in the early 1960s. At the time the cars that were considered "antique" were usually pre-war (WW I that is). Brass era cars were always a delight for me to see. My likes have not changed. The only reason I do not own a 100 year old car was I could never find one affordable in any condition. Yes I could of had Model T Fords but my heart belonged to Buick. Only recently has their been any opportunity for me to be able to acquire one. My reason now is that the Brass era tour groups seem to have much more fun on their outings. I wanted a car to drive, not a stage for a trophy. But a recognition for the preservation, upkeep and driving of a century old vehicle is quite a badge of honor.
Third, On joining the BCA. I did buy my 1937 Buick in 1987 as an affordable place holder until the time when I could find an older car. I was pleased to find an organization who would help with getting the car back on the road. The 1937-38 Buick Club, being very specific to my needs. One catch. I had to belong to this even more expensive national club, the BCA. Tough on a first year teachers salary. But I joined the BCA hoping for some benefit. For many years there was very little to peak my interest in the old Bugle as to my 1937s needs let alone earlier Buicks. Only since Pete Philips has been involved with the Bugle have there been any occasional information or articles to keep me interested. I do realize the Bugle must support interests of all Buick collectors. After being a casual observer for 25 years (life happens) I was finally able to attend a National at Danvers in 2011. We really wanted to get involved. (My wife and I were thinking about dropping out of the BCA after that experience). But we joined the local chapter and have done 4 more nationals. Realizing that if you wish to receive from the organization one must contribute. I believe that the Buick people we have met along the way since then have restored our faith. To me it has been about the friendships we have made. Mostly positive thoughts so far.
Fourth. As the director of the local Mason-Dixon chapter I many times have to justify my insistence on driving my 78 and 90 year old Buicks to our membership. Read that as "you drove that where? You must be crazy" !!! So I also know about keeping an older vehicle on the road. I never expected to receive awards on my "drivers". My first phone conversation as chapter director was with a person who wanted to bring a car (1982 Rivera) to our yearly car show. His question? How big will the trophies be? That mentality has somewhat jaded me as to what I felt the hobby should be. Just try to get a group of chapter members out for a local 80 mile round trip. "I can't do that in my antique, after all it is a 1980!!" I have not gotten my AACA Senior yet! "So I do have a bit of a problem with trophy seekers. Yet I do feel if one makes the effort to bring /drive their early car, they should have recognition. My feeling is that I don't believe we will get more people to bring their 100 year old cars to BCA events for the sake of a badge. Having said that, a 100 year badge would go far to make these owners feel more welcome. To me, that has been at the core of the issue. Feeling welcome. The BCA has not been all that welcoming as of late for us pre-war people.
Lastly. As a steadfast supporter of the BCA for over 28 years(except when we wavered a bit in 2011) I have tried to talk up the organization whenever I can. Also as a Chapter director it is my obligation to serve and increase the membership. I have already fielded concerns with those in my local who indicated that if the Allentown celebration does not fulfill it's promise they will be leaving the organization. Having stated my reasons for joining the BCA, (and now being somewhat dissatisfied with the turn of events that the BOD has instigated) if there was another way I could connect with other like minded early vintage Buick people I would ........ Oh wait!. Here we are.....
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Thanks Lief:
There is a fellow who bought the 1924-45 that we discussed about a locked up engine over 2 years ago. That car was sold at auction all apart and the new owner now has it on the road. But he does not deal with computers. I know others have tried to help him with missing parts. I believe he still is missing the cover form his S/G. I will try to call him again to see if there is any interest. I know I found some things for the previous owner and for some reason they did not find their way to the new owner.
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Joe and Dave :
Thanks for the tip as I am still trying to finesse the gage out of a tank for my1925 Buick. Trying not to destroy what is there so there is at least something to go by.
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The Auction experience was well worth it. I was a cheapskate phone bidder. If you wanted to be in the convention center ballroom floor you had to have a $200 non refundable on purchase bidders number.. It was so interesting to see the RM crew members trying to get some of the older cars running to drive across the auction block. A beautiful 1929 Packard roadster thought to bring in the order of over $80,000 would not start. After the chief mechanic could not get it going then came the "TOW OF SHAME" which was a 4 wheeler and a tow strap to drag the expensive machine across the auction block.. That happened many times over the next 2 nights. Many of the1910s-20s cars started up immediately and quickly died. Each time some one forgot to turn on the fuel or vacuum tank. Each car had a card with starting instructions. The 1915 C-36 had the same problem and the young crew member automatically calls the head mechanic. I felt torn.. but since I had been denied the chance to drive the car I at least wanted to hear it run. So I suggested the young man turn on the fuel valve below the vacuum tank. Wow.. started up and ran pretty nice after that. It did leave a trail of oil on the trip up to the convention center ballroom.
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Larry.
I believe Dave was referring to this Larry. Also considering that the mechanic who worked on the car is a Larry also. Looks like a Larry conspiracy. With no Moe, Curly or Shemp.
Another thing we noticed on the car was that it had a decided lean to the passenger side. It was not noticeable to me since when I first saw it at Larry (the mechanic's) garage it was on the lift. Looking at the photos on the RM website.the front and rear views of the car looked to have it in a perfectly level attitude. On closer examination the driveway where it was photographed the grade slopes down on the drivers side. Broken Spring?? While the car was on the trailer we found evidence of pop riveted patches. Also bondo on the fender and body as well as how the mismatched fenders were installed. They had a 90 degree flange with about 40 very small pop rivets. RM touted this as an "high grade older restoration".
As my friend Dave Blaufarb told me after our examination when it was on the trailer at $24,500 .... "I think you dodged the bullet on this one"..
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Charlie:
I thought that there was another problem with the swivel unit that you showed me at Hershey. You mentioned that your dad had Model T gears installed.
I had hoped to get a dialog with other Buick guys as to getting it back to what it should be. I hope as Terry said that Russ may be able to help.
From what I saw I could machine a collar to reinforce the broken casting. If that is the only thing stopping your speedometer from racking up some miles.
Larry
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28 Master Six pistons question
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Josef
Thank you for bringing this up. My 1925-25, 191 cu.in 6cyl is pretty tired and noisy. I will soon be looking at a rebuild and I will go with Mark Shaw's recommendation and go with aluminum pistons. I see Brad has moved in that direction an his 1925 Standard. I will ask him for the contact info for "Ross".