dibarlaw
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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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Marty:
Thanks for posting photos of the Hudson. I wanted to see what you replaced the 1914 Buick with. I looked at the purchase of a very nice 1914-15? 6-40 Hudson at the Hershey car corral about 13 ? years ago. There was an executor for the estate of the deceased owner at the car whom we spoke to. They were asking $10,500. It was hard to walk away from that one. I believe it went from owner to dealer to dealer for the next 2 years at Hershey.
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Thanks to all. I will tell him the consensus is engine color. I did paint the intakes of my 1925 and 1937 engine color.
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This1913 Buick I offered on had the badges tacked everywhere. It had a similar undated badge centered below the "1913 BUICK". I have seem many of the early (1950s-60s hobby participants) tack them on the cowl and anywhere else that would fit. It seemed to be the thing to do at the time. Others have a display board to show the awards.
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One of our Mason/Dixon members is working on his 1946 Super engine and wanted to know what the intake manifold color should be.
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Wow Mike, you never know who you will find when you open one of these threads. I would love to help if I can.
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Mike :
That is what I thought. I have a 49 owners manual and it shows the Special series with the speaker above the radio and Super /Roadmaster speaker below.
Here is the photo you suggested. Oh, that is not a crack in the 2 center bars it is a reflection of a wire overhead.
Larry
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I am not sure if the Supers are the same as the Roadmaster. I know the Specials are different. I know this radio was taken from my uncle's 1949 Roadmaster around 1960 and is available. Speaker grill chrome is very nice.
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When I was having the same issues with my 25-25s original radiator I had done all the above and still the overheating but no seepage or leaking. The core had a small section removed and several soldered patches done by the previous owner. My radiator man said it was clean and flowed well after he went thru it. Same problem after I reinstalled.it. A local Mason-Dixon club friend sold me a 1925 standard radiator that looked to be in good shape. While I was doing a pre-cleaning prior to sending it out to get done at the radiator shop I put too much pressure with a flusher unit. When my radiator man checked it out he said it leaked like "someone took a shotgun to it". Expensive mistake! So I had that radiator re-cored with a HD modern core at over $900. No overheating ever since. The non honeycomb look does not bother me for my driver. Now if I can only get it running happily again!!
Original radiator when I got the car in 2011 Re-cored and repainted shell, 2014 Jan 2016, with my powder coated bumpers
seep marks and missing section in lower left. and re-silvered reflectors.
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All my lighting seems to functioning well. I rebuilt all the switch unit and it operates as Leif indicates. All connections cleaned and had the reflectors re-silvered. I did install the halogen bulbs. It did not appear to give me that much more light than the regular bulbs. It does not matter if I used them or incandescent bulbs when I switch to dim I would expect about 1/2 the light intensity. There is hardly the glow of a candle. So yes it is dim!!
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Brian:
Glad you are getting the S/G taken care of. Dave Blaufarb picked up a D-249 unit in pieces (cleaned up, painted but apart) at Hershey thinking that I could use it. The distributer housing was missing and also the brush cover. I believe that some of the brush holders may be interchangeable with my D-283 unit. I have a spare S/G for my 1925 Standard but the brush holders were stripped out. So I hope these brush holders fit.
I was out working on the 25 yesterday and am still having issues. Starts up. idles smooth for about 30 seconds. Accelerates smooth. Then the throttle goes dead and then it gets worse. When I try to give it a bit of gas then it begins to backfire. I had it running for about 5 minutes and as I said things got worse as it warmed up. Decided misses and seems that fewer cylinders are firing the longer it runs. That is why I believe it is a coil problem. I am avoiding taking off the heat riser as of yet. I bought a new condenser from BOB's last fall because the points were burning. I had to redress and reset the points to get it running this time. Seemed to be burned worse than before. I will check the coil (modern style) to see if it is breaking down.
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Mark:
I am so glad it has finally gone to a "Buick Loving Home". I can send you all the photos I took of the car at the mechanics garage while I was trying to negotiate with the owners. You will have a wonderful support group with Larry Schramm and Brian Heil nearby!
I want a ride!
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Saturday April 2nd the Mason-Dixon Chapter had a tour near Sharpsburg MD. Most thought it was too early in the season to bring out their cars. But we drove "Lucy" our 1937. We had good company with a 1930 Franklin and a 1931 Ford at the Rural Heritage Museum. It has about 30 cars on display. 5 locally made. 2 Dagmars, 2 Pope Tribunes from Hagerstown and A Crawford from Martinsburg WV.
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I will be there with the rest of you knuckleheads. I just have to get Beulah (the 1925) to cooperate. I know that Joan can drive the 1937 up but I am still plotting as to how I will get the 1925 there.
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Stuart:
I communicated with the owner of the 1928 Roadster in California and asked for other photos. None were sent. When I asked about the top he indicated that it was not the correct one. The photo above of the 1927 Master Sport Coupe, as others have said it will be quite a project But wow, it has wire wheels and sidemounts.
Oops! The big radiator threw me off. I went back and looked at the listing and photos again as it indicates that it is a 28-26S (Standard) The engine photos show a Standard series configuration. Full crowned fenders. 1928 dash layout. The radiator and shell appear to be an earlier (flatter face) from a 1924 or 25 large series. The 26-27 edges were more rounded. The 1925-1927 Standard radiators are shorter with no thru hole for the crank. The 1928 had the crank hole for both series,. The radiator being the same overall size but the large series core being thicker. The headlights are 26 or 27 as the 1928s have the bullet shape. So looks like some mix and not match has taken place. But Dave in D.C. has everything to make it right.
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Here is what the large series (192 1924 Harrison Tag) Radiator top mount looks like that I have. I bought this at Hershey last year since the 1925-45 near me needed a better Shell. Which this one is still pretty bad, But much better than the one on the local car. Torn sections, broken welds, missing sections, many dents and a small rust out at lower left corner. The car I offered on 3 years ago and I believe they still have it. Bad Idea to start accumulating spares for a car that may never come your way. But everyone I know needed a better shell including one for my 1925-25. So I saw it and well.... This radiator probably started out in better shape. But, it has been at probably been at a dozen flea markets and was tossed around a good bit.
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I started to do a layout of this in Autodesk Inventor so I could generate a 3-D model. Then I could use our rapid prototyping unit to make them up out of plastic.
Oops! I retired and no longer have access! I will see if I can find the sketch as I said the part # 15819 looks to be the same for most of these units.
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Hugh:
The accelerator pedal Cap is available from BOB'S. page 38 AP-218 $16.00. I ordered one from them last year and it looks great. It is a metal core with rubber coating. The one I had was cobbled up Model A one with a nut welded on to it.
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At Chickasha I found at least 6 top socket sets mostly for Model Ts so far nothing has shown up, But I may have a lead in Mass.
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Hugh:
The Mud Pan # 172835 is the full width sheet metal part between the frame under the radiator. Plate #6 page 20 in the Book of parts. I would have scanned it for reference but my copies are not very good. Inside that starter gear cover is where I found out what happened to 1/2 of one of my clutch disks.
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Kc
Your S/G is similar to the design of my 1925. Delco # 283. Yours should be Delco # 184. ;'I have a spare S/G for mine that is missing the same cover. Terry's is for an earlier style. Ours is cast Iron.
My end cover Assembly part # is D 15819. I do not have any reference for 1921 year applications but the 1923 4 cylinder D-251 and 6 cylinder D-249 S/Gs show the same part # for the end cover. D-15819
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This is what an original 1937 Boot (dust cover) looks like. This one is for a Special.
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This was our first Chickasha meet and we did have a good time. The 3,300 mile trip was a bit much. It was good to connect with my Buick buddies and stop over at Terry W's in Doo Da. 1920s Buick stuff was almost non existent as the only thing I saw was a set of 1926-27 headlights for sport models that are the all nickel plated brass ones. Same condition as all the others I have seen ( the buckets all split up).The vendor was never around to talk to.. The Thursday evening collection tours were the highlight of our trip. Here is a photo of Pete taking the photo posted above of the group.
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John:We are at the Chickasha swap meet and today we were invited to tour some fabulous collections. I am always fascinated by the accounts of the Matheson rebirth. Only knowing of the car by factory photos.. Tonight, I actually got to be in the presence of this magnificent machine. Wow!!!
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Thank you for sharing. I have a 1925-25 6 cylinder Standard touring that was the following years replacement for your model 35 4 cylinder.
Please post more photos as you can! We love photos of the cars exterior as well as interior and engine compartment .
FS 1921 Buick Model 44 Roadster
in Buick - Buy/Sell
Posted
Tom:
Congratulations. It is nice that the car will still be near by. I remember when we went to look at the our 1925 at Ogdensburg NY. and looking across the river and seeing Canada.