[New Buick Convertible]

While meeting with the people at Freysinger Buick in Mechanicsburg PA. for our upcoming Mason-Dixon show (June 4th). I sat in the one that was in the show room (Flip Chip Silver). They also had a Graystone metalic one outside and my comment to my wife was that it did look like the Chrysler.  I also noted that most of the components are from Poland and I believe the final assembly in also in Poland. I have the sales brochure and was unimpressed with the colors offered. Most new cars I see in our area no mater what the make are BLACK, WHITE, GRAY, SILVER and an occasional BLUE. I also looked at a Encore and the sales man indicated that the 2017s will loose the vertical Buick type grill.

[Nice 1923 in Tucson]

1923 Sedan? Try a 1923-55 Sport Touring.  The interior photos check. I would need to see the back for the trunk rack /tire carriers to be sure. I would really love to have one of these! Looks to have been restored at some time. There were several offered in the Buick Bugle over the last couple of years and on Ebay, Hemmings etc. So with this one 4 more have shown up recently. Same problem that I always have. It is on the wrong side of the USA. I almost went for the rough, black example in Michigan. The 1923-54 sport Roadster in Vermont was the beginning of us "Looking For A Driver Buick" posts on the forum.

Wishing does not make it so. I still need to focus on keeping my 1925-25 running.

 

[Cowl lights for Buick]

1924 through 1927. The angled threaded posts are for sedans and coupes. Straight ones are for touring and roadsters. (Different cowl shape) 2 different sizes. Larger for the big 6 or later Master series. Smaller for the 1924 30 series cars and 1925-1927 Standards. These are steel bodied lights. Nickel plated brass bodies are for sport models.

[Vintage gas pump stolen....]

Even though I have my 5 gallon FRY pump now bolted down, someone will still destroy the mounting if they want it bad enough. When I was on the Petrolina Forums this was a common story. Mine is worth nowhere near what a pump with it's original parts is worth since I am missing the pump base and the glass cylinder was replaced with acrylic.

I hope they find the culprit !!! I will be suspicious if a Pump base shows up for sale.

[Top Rest Saddle 1925-1927 Buick]

There is the 1924-55 that was advertised in the Bugle last month.  It is now on the Hemmings site at $65,000 firm. (It had already gone thru Ebay and the most it was bid to was $35,000) In the Hemmings ad there are some photos of his top holders as well as a video. The photo of the top down really looks bizarre. It sits up way too high and looks like it is covered in a bed sheet. I believe the too tall travel trunks that he and the 1925-55 advertised on antique cars.com have installed on their cars make them look that way. The holders I have for my 1925-25 very nearly match the positioning on the photo I posted on the other thread about the 1925-55. From what I have seen on these cars the rear most socket should rest in a horizontal attitude.  Leif's 1925-25 top sits lower since his last socket swings under at the pivot point while in this B/W photo (and on my car the rear socket) swings up at the pivot.

 

                                                   

[Top Rest Saddle 1925-1927 Buick]

Rod:

I don't have a 1925 Master Book of Parts but the 1925 McLaughlin Standard book that Leif had sent me copies of does list top rests. The Flint USA book I have calls for Top Holders there is no mentioning of "rests". I picked up a cast iron set on Ebay which I feel are correct for my car. Even so the construction of these holders are inclined in at the top towards the body. That would be fine except whoever made up my adapted top sockets made the bows all the same length. The top is just as wide at the rear as at the front. So instead of the folded top slightly nesting everything stacks vertically. Leif and Hugh have given me size information from their cars to know that unless I can find the correct sockets I would  not be able to squeeze my top sockets into the clamps. So I will be using the rests for now. 

The 1914-1930 Master parts book page 350 shows top holder part # 184696 right 184697 left for 1925-45-49-55-X45-49-55

Top rest # 182694 1925-X25-45-49-for Burbank tops (2) req.  #189186   1925-25S-X25S-1926-55-X55

 

Right after I got these I also found on Ebay a set of painted cast iron rests. Unfortunately when they arrived they did not match. One is longer than the other. I have not put the top down to check which is a best fit.

[1925 Buick 25/55 Sports Tourer details]

Rod:

 Thank you for the detailed photos. Fabulous work!  I will not complain about the rotted sections I have had to replace..

[1918? Olds in Hemmings]

It would be great for a tribute Beverly Hillbillies truck!

[Hagery email that I received]

Thanks for posting:

 Yes, I wish he had mentioned more about the 1912 Buick Touring. As much as I would love to have a brass era Buick still to me it is on the wrong coast.

[1925 Buick 25/55 Sports Tourer details]

I found these on Antiquecars.com It has been there for a long time at $49,500,The wheels look to have been done by a 5 year old.

[Ajax Corp - Brewer-Titchener Touring Car Top]

This is what I am looking for my 1925 Buick Standard touring. But on yours with the wood extending the full length on the rear two irons it could be for a 1926-28 standard.

[27 Roadster / Rumble seat]

When I indicated what it might need to get it back on the road he mentioned that his guy would rip out the driveline and put in a Chevy 350 so it could go down the road at 80 mph. I hope I talked him out of it.

[1925 Buick 25/55 Sports Tourer details]

And here are some period photos.

[1937 Buick Wanted]

Thanks Jack, but the 40C sold today for $40,000. Not to me... I did get in one Bid! The good thing is that it is going to someone local. Only 5 miles away. Oh well, something else may come along. The owners name was also Jack.

[1947 Buick Wagon]

Thanks John, I will forward the information.

[1924 Buick model and production number]

Great Information. Interesting that the 1925-25S Sport Touring is only a $12.00 appraisal in 1931. Also in 1931 even the 1931 90 series cars are appraised to about half of list sale price. The 7 passenger Limo. 90L lists at $2035 and appraises at $1035.

 If the next page was there it may show that my 1925-25 may only be $10.00! Looks as though roadsters appraised at a bit more. Of course that was the dealers allowance. They would probably ask $30.00 on the lot

 Buy a new Buick and pay $28,000 and then try to sell a month later and only get $14,000. The dealers would love that!

[1924 Buick model and production number]

Rod:

Thanks for the photo. Such a shame It looks like it was a model 54 Sport Roadster. If my son (who drives flat bed out to the region) could only drag it home for me!

[1937 Buick Wanted]

If I could get another 37 that is for sale near by. I should know by Sunday. (An AACA grand national 1937 40C). I would gladly sell my 37-41 sedan and drive it down to deliver! We did the 36-38 Club tour in Nashville last Sept. and drove 1,550 miles without an issue! April 2nd Rural Heritage Museum Tour.

[1947 Buick Wagon]

As Mason-Dixon Director I get many of these requests. Any leads for her?

Hi-

 

I am contacting you from Winterthur Museum in Wilmington, DE.  We are looking for a 1947 Buick station in the region, whose owner might be willing to participate in our Invitational in May.  Could you please forward to anyone you may know?  Thank you!

 

http://www.winterthur.org/?p=1246

 

 

Jennie Brown

Public Programs Assistant

Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library

5105 Kennett Pike

Winterthur, Delaware 19735

302.888.4931

302.888.4953 fax

[Pages Reversed -'36 - '38 BUICK CLUB TORQUE TUBE II]

Marty and Matt:

 I was reading the article last night and thought I was just sleepy!. I eventually did as Marty said and it made perfect sense.

 Matt, this issue of the TTII was fabulous!

[Clutch disc resurface service needed]

Make sure that you have a BUICK clutch and not an aftermarket. "Cars" sent mine out to get done (to Florida) then after a month said that it could not be relined since it was an aftermarket one. They did not have stock facings to fit. They also would not accept my clutch disk as a core for a new one (exchange only). They also lost my pressure plate! They did send me another but I had made sure my pressure plate was marked to be replaced in the same position on the flywheel. It was over 3 months before I had all these parts back. I never did find another Buick clutch disk until recently. I took the one I had and sent it to our local NAPA store that still had a machine shop at the time (1988). They quoted me about $35.00 to re-face it. Using the fact that they just charged around $45.00 to a restoration place in town for a double plate clutch for a STUTZ DV-32. They called 3 weeks later to say it was going to be over $165.00! The same reason as with CARS was that they had to make the facings special for it. Remember this was at a time when we still had to send a SASE through the mail for a response. A long distance phone call was also a budgeted item! I did get them to get the price down to around $130. Nearly a year and no clutch. All these issues slowed any progress on my 37-41 and eventually stopped progress for 24 more years.

 Fast forward to 2012 when I had to send my car out to finally get some work done. By then I had several clutches accumulated. None matching a BUICK clutch. Each one was supposed to work including (an International Scout 10" 1/14" X10 spline). Which one to install?  I chose the one I had done at NAPA since that was the most expensive. I have driven the car over 6,000 miles. The clutch works fine except it does have a bit of chatter.

[1925-25 Wood Repair]

Not wishing to dilute Hugh's 1925-25 pattern project I would like to show what I did to temporarily repair some missing/rotted out parts. The project started with chunks of wood falling out of the drivers door each time it closed. I also wanted to reproduce the door pockets that were not included when the car was re-upholstered in the 1960s or70s. So I removed the panel and found a diagonal steel plate to hold the rotted front bottom corner together. Next door removal,  re-create the wood, re-fit and re-hang door then find that the cowl hinge post is also spongy on the bottom. I remove and redo that. Great!. Now the door closes easily with a soli click. I learned a lot as how to get everything to align properly. Now, I might as well do the passenger door which had a loose sloppy fit and the passenger had to fight to keep closed.  Good news! They had already made new wood pieces for this door. The hinge post was quite solid and not spongy. Unfortunately whoever did the work did not even prime the exposed inner flange of the door and it was vintage rust. Just nailed the rusty skin on to the new wood and painted the outside.  So while I had the door off I cleaned /primed and painted these areas. The strike bar needed redone since there were many years of misalignment scars. The rubber bumpers had turned to rocks and needed to be reproduced. I had already did some temporary work at the base of the strike post (glue in some splinters of wood in the old holes and longer screws). Now I needed to strengthen the base of tis area. Well, one starts digging and before long I had several handfuls of shredded rotted wood, bent upholstery tacks etc. I had removed material up to 5" above the sill until I could find reasonably solid wood. I needed to engineer a piece to be solid yet fit around the bolt that connects to the support plate.

    This is what I came up with.

I drilled holes for long #4 screws. These holes allowed me to thread a wire through them so I could get the smaller piece behind the bolt and then pull everything together. Using the wire and stick like a tourniquet. My intention was to maintain pressure on the bolt to help strengthen and stabilize the post at its base.

                       

After I glued all in place and allowing for some set up time I removed the wire and installed the #4 screws to pull things tightly together. I fitted some veneer shims and then trimmed all before final prep for re-finishing.

[1924 to 1927 Buick Standard Touring wood drawings and assembly]

As someone who has had to reproduce some minor wood pieces in the doors and hinge post on my car, I can appreciate the dedication you must have to this project. I hope others who have need of this come forward. Unfortunately, the dozen or so cars I know of are pretty much together, Having said that, I really appreciated the images Hugh has posted. I have had to replace some of the bottom of the right side of striker post. My issue is that to access all this wood the body has to be off the frame. Not something I wanted to do on my car. so I had to repair in place.

[MASTER CYLD. 37 SPECIAL]

Like Marty stated do the entire system replacement. Lines hoses etc. We had done so and our 1937-41 stops great. Just remember these braking systems do need maintenance/adjustment to work at their best. While on tour with the 1936-38 club one of our members had his brakes lock up. Return hole in the master cylinder plugged up. We tried to effect an on the road repair. We had to bleed the brakes in order to get the car moved out of traffic. The fluid in the master cylinder was the consistency of molasses.

[37 special battery issue]

I have the same set up in my 1937-41.(2 hanging straps). 1937-44 gave me a folded sheet metal box to replace these home made straps. The original would have an actual box. These boxes rusted out quickly. I would keep the battery where it is as the positive cable is long enough as it is..