dibarlaw
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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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I was planning on driving the 1937 down from Chambersburg (around 90 miles one way). We did not do so since it was a bit of a stretch and we had some time constraints. We had attended 3 years ago and there was more like over 65 cars. This year I counted 35 total. I believe in 2013 there were more than 10 pre war cars including my 37. This time there were 3.
I wanted to attend to observe and ask questions as to how they were doing with an All Buick Show. As a board member and director of Mason-Dixon chapter I wanted to see how things are working out. It seems that all the elements were in place for a successful show and the attendees and B.O.O.M staff are enthusiastic. The weather was a perfect, blue sky, sunny 70 degree day. So I did not understand the drop in attendance. I know we are constantly finding competition with other shows and cruse-in type of activities. The Mason Dixon club went to a inclusive show (Pontiac, Olds, Cadillac and GMC truck) at Freysinger Buick before I was director to keep the numbers up. It seemed to work well but we still noticed numbers falling off. This past June 4th show we opened it up to all makes and numbers improved.
Several things that had to be done on our part.
Reschedule our show date to be less effected by surrounding events.. GM nationals at Carlisle. AACA museum events. All in our area.
We rescheduled our (last Sunday of the month) meeting date to accommodate the B.O.O.M show as we have members from both clubs.
Advertise in all the normal hobby publications and web venues. Our host Freysinger also sends out "blasts" to customers.
The hardest thing I have had to deal with as director is the reluctance of the membership to bring their cars. If all the membership would bring their cars there would be over 50 for our group. We do understand the "Graying out of the membership".
I myself do not relish bringing my car to our show since I have responsibilities with the running of the show and meeting attendees. My wife Joan is doing the same. So no one to field questions about the car. Still I try to have them there to maintain a presence to encourage others to bring theirs out.
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A functioning hand throttle is truly a great tool. When one has stalled on a hill and must keep his foot on the brake pedal. Pull out all the way to re-engage the starter. My vacuum starter/accelerator switch works fine.
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I have tried to explain the problems with getting it back to correct and the obvious issues but he seems to be stuck on a price. His price in Hemmings was $32,500. As was the same with the one I looked at it Belle Vernon, the only inquiries were from brokers who wanted to list the car for a fee. In both cases I was the only one to actually come and look at the car. He said the top was in bad shape but would not agree to raise it so we could check. The dash had a later Delco switch unit cut in even though there were no electric lights. Probably at one time it did since it has the mounted period aftermarket generator. He said the magneto was not functioning.
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Wow John! Now I can understand what I will be going thru on my 1925. I have the "Buick Technical Tips" Book. Copyright 1993. The compilation of articles sent into the Bugle. On page 90 Frank Bergoyne. BCA#5721 sent in an article about his "1925-25 Piston swap tip" and the Jeep pistons. Also about replacing the valves with ones from a IHC Farmall model H. On page 91 of the same book there are articles on "1928 Standard 6 exhaust valves", Submitted by Bill ColsonBCA # 1928 and one on "1928-1931 Piston Slap and Offset Wrist Pins". Submitted by Al Barany BCA # 37 Reprinted from "RAMCO Motor overhaul Service Manual Bulletin #146". Long dissertation continued on pg. 92. I am to understand that the Buick Pistons of this period had the wrist pin bores offset to the centerline of the piston. I know many are switching to the aluminum Jeep pistons. What about this offset?
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The 1913-31 we rode in had the cut out, as the owner used it during our ride. Love that roar! I had been working on some agreement with a gentleman in Michigan who has a 1913-31 for sale. When I went to look at it after the old car festival I took more photos. Some of the questions I asked told me that he did not know the car as well as I had hoped. I crawled under and found this exhaust. He was not aware that it originally had a cut out. Again, some issues and not running at this time. I thought I could of least heard it run.
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Hugh:
I told you that I have had to make each of these. So if you need some I can make them for you. I should have some of the headlight bezel clips as I did make extra.
Larry
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I just spoke with the seller of the 1913 Buick posted on the forum. He sent more photos to my wife's phone but cannot be enlarged beyond postage stamp size. Model 30. He confirmed all the fenders and trim including top sockets are dark blue.
Same story, different day. Granddads car... Interpretive 40 year old + restoration..... Has not been run for 25-30 years. Nice looking car though. Still big money for a non running car.
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Jim:
The distributor looks great and my friend Dave B gave me one from a Chevy to try. Looks like I have some experimental/ machining to do!
The left side distributor is cast iron and is in the car now. The one on the right is what came in my car. It had about .030 play and if you put finger pressure on it the engine would die. No place for grease to get to the bearings.
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Pete :
Is this a Roadmaster? My 1937 Special does not have the 4 holes around the instrument cluster. I checked in the May/June 2016 issue of the Torque Tube II. There are photos of Dick Beckley's and Marty Roth's 1937 80C and shows vertical chrome strips on both sides. Also on each side of the glove box.
Is that the glass you got from me? This is what my cluster looks like after I repainted it. Still with the original glass.
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You may have to do some ignition tweeking if you have been running it at slow idle for long periods of time. Not the best thing to do on any engine. No lead additive needed for low compression engines. Check and clean the points, check the cap, rotor,.condenser etc.
Are you running it on the vacuum tank or an electric pump?
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I really took a liking to this (looks to be a model 30) till I saw that the fenders and all the trim, lamps, windshield are painted the same deep blue. I will still call just to get the story. The last 4, 1913-31s I inquired on that were available on a craigslist ad indicated that they all ran and were drive able. None of which were true. The one I offered on in Belle Vernon PA. was sold in May and when it was tried on tour the 2nd gear went out on the new owner the first day. I questioned the previous seller about the stuck clutch and the problematic 2nd gear. He said "just needs a simple adjustment". Car also did not run as promised.
Joan and I had been guests of Larry and Joyce Schramm. Having a great time riding in a very nice 1913-31 at the Greenfield Village Old Car Festival the previous weekend. The car is from Ontario and the owners said that if I was interested in one that I should get the feel for it. They said, "Let's go for a ride"!!!!! What a great fun day. Thanks again to the Schramms!
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There are several on e-bay usually for around $60.00. Still ouch...... A 1925-45 near me was for sale several years ago and the owner's father had replaced the crumbling die cast distributer with an International truck one. I would love to know how and what model distributer it was.
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BTT
I finally was able to contact John Borrinakis of John's Enterprises in California about doing a set for me. I had to mail him the above photos and he did say he could now do them, IF, he has a close set to the above dimensions. It has been over a month since he responded to me so I will put this out there again in case he does not have anything to work with.
Larry
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BTT
I had finally contacted John Boorinakis at John's Enterprises in California.about doing a set and gave him the above photos and information. That was over a month ago and have not heard yet if he has a set that will work. So I am putting this out again.
Larry
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Remembering Mel Boonstra. 1916-2016. Photo of his 1916 Buick Truck I took at the South Bend Nationals in 2013.
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Congratulations! Great to hear things will be moving. I hope to see it at Hershey.
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They do not fold. Best just to remove the windshield glass/frames from the stanchions.
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FYI. The 1923-55 in Tucson sold for $1,250 LESS than I offered.
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My thoughts exactly Pete. I guess he sent this out to other Chapter Directors also. I received a direct email from him yesterday. I mentioned about the 33 year old tires. I asked him, more importantly, where the car was located. Now that I know I need not send out to my local in central PA. I now of people living in one state advertising a car and the car is 3 states away.
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Hugh:
I spoke with him and it is a 1927 standard chassis/engine.
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Kevin:
I do understand that would have been a stretch. I know anything I had been interested in was on your coast. There was a 1924-45 sold on Seattle Wash.? craigslist last month. TO LATE AGAIN! Running/driving older restoration ++++ parts galore. Engines, transmissions, wheels, front and rear axles etc.etc..etc. Price was I believe, $8,500 for all. Does anyone know where that car went?. That would be a big help to you folks out there.
Larry
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BTT
He is really motivated for a sale.
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Drove the 1937 to a Labor day Picnic .I almost have my porch repainted in the back round. I can't finish it this weekend as we are attending the Old Car Festival!
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1937 Parts at Hershey
in Buick - Buy/Sell
Posted
At Hershey space C4M 44-45 I will have some sheet metal and trim for 1937 Specials. Headlight pods, L/R rear fenders, front fender, hood, L/R tail lights, wheels. hub caps as well as many misc.electrical and mechanical parts. These were leftovers from the restoration of a Phaeton Including a split rear window frame for convertibles and an original phaeton top boot in its oil cloth bag. Recently acquired and have not had time to price or evaluate much. So stop by and make your best deal. We leave tomorrow morning so I will not be on line again till after Hershey.