Reaper1

You had to have seen the carnage! LOL I couldn't believe what I was seeing knowing what the engine was, who was driving it, and how it was used. I've seen outboard boat engines nuke themselves at WOT that looked more savable! LOL I like the idea of the air ride stuff...it's just the size of the rest of the equipment that's killing me. Between wanting to put a nicer stereo that will require some space be used for a sub and amps, wanting the keep the car somewhat practical (as practical as one of these can be) and the tank/pump/valves required for air-ride...makes me reconsider.

As has been suggested, check the plugs going to the Hall Effect (HEP is the common term used by most on the forums...easier/faster to type). Also, most of the time the wiring harness in that area is not being held in the correct position and that puts extra stress on those wires. Make sure they aren't frayed or broken. I actually wrap the wires coming off of the HEP itself a few times with electrical tape to reduce bending stress and possible chafing in that area. Something else to look into while you are checking out the HEP is to make sure the shutter wheel plate (reluctor as some call it) inside the distributor isn't loose. A good majority of our distributors used only melted plastic rivets to hold the shutter wheel to the distributor shaft. Over time that can get loose and cause the whole thing to wiggle. This isn't good for many reasons. It's an easy fix with a drill, either rivets or screws, and some patience. You don't want to break the plastic. I think it was already suggested, but take off and clean the throttle body. The idle bypass passage can get gummed up pretty bad over time and cause sticking idle problems and stalling. A bad TPS could also cause drivability issues. This can be checked with an ohm meter either on the car or at the bench. You want to see the sensor sweep through its range evenly with no "dead spots". As others have said, a dying fuel pump can also be intermittent. It probably wouldn't hurt to have a new fuel filter sock on it anyway...replace ALL of the rubber fuel line while you are at it. Make sure to use fuel line rated for fuel injection. Also, if you do replace your fuel pump, make sure the hose that comes with it is rated to be submersed in fuel. If it's not, it will turn into a gooey mess inside the tank. Not fun. Any time the car acts up, pull the codes using the key-on/key-off method and the check engine light (CEL). Lastly, and a biggie, check your grounds! Bad grounds can cause all kinds of nasty issues! Don't rely just on continuity, either. That mistake basically cost me an entire vehicle...that I found YEARS after getting rid of it! Physically check the connection AND the wire!!

Holy crap! How did it break the block!? It makes me wonder if there was a catastrophic failure in a gasket or something that caused and instant hyrdolock situation? Of course I didn't see the "milkshake" usually associated with that so...I dunno! That's one of the worst failures I've seen out of one of these engines not pushing much power. I have seen a N/A 2.5 eat itself (thing looked like it came apart at 10,000rpm...it was in an auto minivan! LOL)...that one had us scratching our heads, too.

That Royal Cabernet car makes me REALLY want to get mine looking good. Such a BEAUTIFUL color!

Was that outside the front main seal? It looks like it's been cracked for a LONG time and finally just gave up. I have also heard of this happening to some other people and part of the solution was to use a longer crank pulley bolt so that the hole and threads were supported almost the entire bore. In stock form I believe the bolt comes well short and can lead to this type of failure.

He needs to change that listing. That is NOT a 16V car. That is an 8V car. Oh...and as we all know, parts do NOT fit a LeBaron for the most part. Ancillary things like switches and suspension work and the windshields...but that's about it.

Pcain, I sent you a personal message. I know it can help!

Specifically you can't get the rod bearings. The main bearings are the same as the 8V engine. However, if you contact Rick Diogo (RDI) he can help most likely. He also can help with the valve lash pucks and many other parts in the head. The head gasket is specific to the Maserati 16V engine. It is NOT the same as ANY of the other headgaskets. Timing belt can be had fairly easily, actually. The timing belt tensioner pulley is unique to the Maserati 16V engine as well. True factory parts are rare to come across. There are modified ones available, however I have recently seen their longevity being questioned. I haven't looked hard enough at mine to see if it could possibly be rebuilt. What are some things you might be interested in or concerned about?

I am interested in both rear quarter windows and the outer body trim with the rubber window scraper for both. I am also in need of a good driver's side outer window scraper. Can you snap some pics?

I wonder if the ones from a Daytona would work? The reason I say that is Omni Potent has replacement outer window scrapers for the non-T-top G-body cars.

Where exactly is this car and does it run? I may have an interested party.

I now own these 2: 201237 1989 Feb-89 Royal Cabernet Ginger Black DOHC 202437 1989 May-89 Royal Cabernet Ginger Tan SOHC

How much are you looking to get? I have some contacts in Fl that *might* be interested.

I'm thinking maybe Arizona parts. I am in need of a driver's side door outer window scraper and also a passenger's side rear quarter window scraper myself. Where are you in Wa? I'm in Everett.

For your own reference the 8V car I have been working on has a newer Hydac accumulator on it. I get 3 pumps on the pedal with medium/light pressure on the pedal. The system works perfectly (I've tested it on the street), and after speaking to Mr. Anderson (a very nice and knowledgeable/experienced person) I am just going to keep my replacement Hydac in storage until it's possibly needed (most likely I'll swap to regular brakes before I do that though).

I don't think you had a problem to begin with. As explained to me by Hemi Anderson, it seems that your brakes were working perfectly fine before given the description you've provided.

Alrighty...I got the driver's side back together and operating very nicely. I took pictures and will post them of the other style regulator. I still intend to take the other side apart, so when I document it I will post that as well.

Last night I was working on my 8V and happened to have the soft top storage well open. Where the hinges go through *might* allow you enough access with something long that *might* allow you to pop the latch. I don't know how you'd see anything as it's dark and there's not a really a direct line of sight to the latch, so....

Thank you, sir!

Our trunks don't use a pull-down motor. We simply have an electric solenoid for remote release. On the car I've been working on it was just a bad ground connection, but of course you have to get into the trunk to get to it! As an interesting aside, if you didn't know, the convertible top pull-down mechanism is derived from the GM trunk pull-down motor and maybe that's what they are thinking of. You can *probably* get into the trunk if you pull the entire spare tire well out of the interior of the car, but that is a LOT of work!

Hemi, I honestly don't know if there's an issue. The brakes seem to work great, honestly. The ABS works (I've tried it a few times on purpose). I just don't want the system to crap out because the motor had to keep running or something.

So I was able to find a replacement regulator/motor assembly online. However, as Marty pointed out and I think it's been said one other time, there are at least 2 different motor/drive assemblies that the TC used on the quarter windows. The pictures I posted above are of one type. The one I bought is a different type. I have already cleaned it up. I am not going to take this one all the way apart since it works. I just don't want to chance messing it up. However, I will take pictures and post them of all the little details so people can see them. I also plan to keep working on finding a suitable replacement motor. I still feel this shouldn't be all that hard, but pulling window regulators SUCKS...especially when you don't know if the motor will even work! LOL

Ah..ok. I have read a few places that we should be seeing 5-10 "pumps" "stabs" "taps"....whatever of the pedal before the pump reactivates. The Reatta guys use the drop in fluid level as the accumulator fills, but that doesn't seem to work for us. So, I need to get a guage then and test it? I *REALLY* don't want to pull that accumulator if I don't have to.

I just bought one of the Hydac accumulators for my one TC that I've been working on. This car already has a Hydac on it, but I can't get more than 3 pumps or so out of the pedal before the pump comes back on. The ABS works fine, but I don't want to take the chance. I am also replacing ALL of the soft lines while I'm at it. We shall see if this makes a difference! I have already replaced the pads and put an entire quart of fluid through the system flushing it.

Marty, where are you seeing the part numbers cast into the motor? The only number I saw was the one cast into the white "drive housing" and it didn't resemble any Chrysler part numbers I've ever seen. The rest of it is blank. The sticker that was on the motor didn't have a number on it. Just the manufacturer and "Type A".