Reaper1

I have 2, plus the 16V car from Rick. So, the first one I got was from Tom K. The second one I got was from Cindy. Then I was able to buy the car from Rick with a running engine that I'm swapping into my 8V TC because the chassis is so much nicer (like brackets aren't rusted to dust! LOL) I might just have to take a road trip to SoCal! I have a few friends I can visit, too!

You only need 3-5 threads or I think it's 1.5x the diameter of the fastener for safe engagement, typically.

Thank you, Hemi!

I was looking at my car in the parking lot the other day while eating at Wendy's and with the RPF1's and the 225/50/16 tires it actually sits fairly nicely. I even thought to myself...maybe I don't need to lower it! Those wheels make the car look MEAN!! LOL

So, I have been able to drive the car here and there and today I drove it to work. I haven't gotten the soft top fixed yet, so I had to put the hard top back on it. The good news is that it runs and drives pretty darn well! I also drove the 16V car into the canopy and started the engine swap process. Unfortunately the more I take this car apart, the more I see how bad it really is and would simply basically require an entire donor car to bring back, so this chassis is going to be crushed/destroyed. I will have some parts for sale as I get it apart. I now understand what Hemi was talking about regarding the wiring harness, the 16V cars have a completely unique engine bay harness. It uses different plugs, wire grouping, etc. Also, taking the radiator fan out SUCKS!! You have to take the radiator/intercooler out FIRST, then wiggle the fan out. I will be installing a V6 fan when I do the engine swap as it uses the flat fan and gives a LOT more room. Does anyone have a place that they send A/C lines to be rebuilt? I plan to keep the A/C, but of course the lines are for R12 and while R134 does work, the lines are old and also more porous to the R134 molecules, so they WILL leak. I need to get these lines remade to hold R134. Tonight, I am going to get the car in the air, get the fenders off and start taking the suspension apart. I hope by the weekend I can have the engine out of the car.

50 looks about stock. I'd run it at 35 (my personal preference for ride height) if that proves to be enough spring rate. That's my concern. To be able to have the spring rate I want at the ride height I want because it *could* turn into a wallowy beast.

Once I get the soft top's rear window taken care of on mine I will be daily driving it...at least until my '90 Daytona gets here, then I'll drive the TC when that car is broken (I suspect it will be quite often as I intend to muck around with that car quite a bit).

The center picture is 90psi? BTW, some reading I was doing on airbag installations said that you want to basically get the vehicle to sit the way you want it to with "x-amount" of pressure (I want to say it was something like 80psi), then adjust the height of the bag mount so it sits where you want at that nominal pressure. That's how you prevent a screwy ride (too wallowy or harsh depending) apparently.

My 16V car spent a good portion of its life in Jacksonville, Fl. It was a "beaches" car, though, and it shows. Plus it has some odd damage from previous incidents. It does have a LOT of good parts, however.

I own the entire vehicle. It's just that the chassis isn't as good as this car's.

I was FINALLY able to take my '89 8V TC on its maiden voyage! For the last few days I've been troubleshooting and electrical issue. I found it, I fixed it, and I prevented it from happening again. I'm blaming a past mechanic being careless with the harness and it rubbed on the power steering pulley. The low beam, high beam and a violet/white wire (I know it has something to do with the MAP) were all affected. It caused a no-start/no-run condition when the low beam headlights would be turned on. Anyway...the important part...I drove it 10 miles....top down...freezing, but enjoying every second! The right front caliper is still sticking, so I suppose I need to get a rebuilt one, or rebuild this one. Other than that and I took the power steering belt off for now to prevent the high pressure leak, I have to fix the tag light, the front license plate holder, and the adjustment of the headlights. I also have to get the rear window for the soft top fixed. The bolts that hold the hinges to the 3rd bow somehow got stripped and replaced with wood screws and a bunch of nuts as spacers! Classy. Obviously that didn't hold and nether did the hack job of adhering the hinges to the glass. I'm still also fixing up the interior little by little. The leather needs a LOT of work. It takes hours just to get one part back up to snuff. It's coming along, though.

Well, alrighty then! LOL I can say that there's been a number of people asking about the harness differences and I honestly haven't looked to see what all they changed. I wasn't sure if they simply used jumper harnesses or if they actually redesigned it to truly fit. I suppose in a round about way you just kind of answered the question! I think I'll lay the harnesses next to each other and then take pictures. I can also overlay them and take pictures. That might be interesting.

Update! I fixed it! Neither the loose ground or the fusible link were it, though. After rechecking the car side and absolutely confirming the issue was on the engine bay side and knowing I had worked all the way from the headlight to the firewall Y-junction, I figured to check the other side. I found that the harness had rubbed on something (probably the power steering pulley) and 3 wires had touched and melted together. Low beams, high beams and a violet/white tracer that goes to the MAP were the culprits. Not a fun area to work and I don't like the fact that I had to replace the fusible link with a fuse holder (no 22ga fusible links were available) and now those wires in that corner also have been repaired. So, I think when I do the 16V swap, the engine bay harness will also be swapped. I'm also seriously considering a PDC for it, too. Thank you all for your help and suggestions. It's much appreciated!

Yup. Already there. I was attempting to isolate the issue from either being in the cabin or out in the engine bay harness, so I disconnected the bulkhead connector and I inspected both sides as I have seen those give issues before, especially with corrosion, but it was clean. This is honestly the cleanest cars I have ever worked on. That's also why this problem makes no sense.

Yup. Dug into it from the core support all the way to the firewall thus far. No signs of damage from rubbing, etc. No rodent damage. The car is surprisingly clean. I am going to start with replacing the corroded fusible link and retracing my troubleshooting from today.

I was getting ready to take my '89 8V Masi TC out for its maiden voyage the other night, but as soon as I turn on the headlights it's like I turn the ignition off. To make it even more strange, if I turn the high beams on the car starts and runs. I have done some initial checking and I did find a loose ground under the battery and the white fusible link that helps feed the ASD relay was corroded. I will replace that tomorrow. I know the car did not have this problem before as I have run it several times with the headlights on. I replaced the headlight switch due to the dimmer being extremely corroded. Now the car has this problem. I then replaced the new switch with a good OEM one and the problem persists. Beyond that I am at a loss. No other system causes this issue. It's only the low beam headlights. I'm open to suggestions.

First thing, run the engine codes. See if there are any obvious issues. This can be done simply following this procedure (do NOT start the engine): use the ignition key and turn the car on/off 3 times, letting it stay in the "run" position (NOT started) the third time. Once you do that, watch the Check Engine Light. It will start to flash. Write down the count of the flashes. The last code *should* be 55 (five blinks a short break and then five more blinks). You can look up what the codes mean on Allpar.com and people on here and the other Turbo Mopar forums are more than happy to help.

Honestly I haven't tried yet, however as far as I knew the cruise simply worked off of the brake light switch/pressure differential switch. Either way, I'll let you know. Really it should be pretty simple to get the cruise to work again if it is resistance sensing. You just will need to get some resistors like what are used for LED turn signal conversions.

Well, it's taken some time to get an update, but I finally have something noteworthy. I replaced the valve stem seals (I HATE that job in the car!! HATE IT!!) and it looks as though I was able to reduce the smoke to just a little tinge in the smell of the exhaust and a puff on initial throttle tip in. Because it had the wrong valve stem seals in it before I don't know if the shop replaced any of the original ones etc., so it's "good enough". The engine runs very smooth and quiet and since I re-timed the cam and ignition it no longer has the hesitation it had before. So, with all that it just needs to have a power steering line replaced and mechanically I believe it's good to go. I got the tags and registration yesterday, so I'm going to get insurance today. I hope to be able to cruise by X-mas!! YAY!!! Oh, and this is on the 8V engine. I will start the process of the 16V swap as soon as this car is officially on the road.

Mine was pretty bad and I hated the fact it used all those individual bulbs, so I replaced the light bar with LED strips. Eventually I'm going to eliminate "E.T." all together and make the entire back of the car light up.

No problem. I saw that he sent you a PM. I hope it works out.

Jim, take a look at this: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?79294-New-All-Metal-HD-T3-Radiator&highlight=

I have 11 years working on boats. When I did "winterizing" (getting the boat ready for storage longer than 6 months) we would fog the engines (usually 2-stroke, but we also did 4-strokes inboard engines as well). When doing that operation, the last part of it is to fog the engine until it dies, and yes, that required very large throttle opening. I have seen it done at a car dealership as well. They did it under the very same premise that Hemi explained, however they were also running a detergent directly into the fuel rail while spraying another cleaner into the engine. I can't remember for certain whether they fogged those out or not, but it always made it look like the car was burning to the ground! To be clear, the winterization of the boats was ONLY for storage. As Hemi stated, you do NOT want oily residue in your intake.

Since the cores and the end tanks are brass a competent radiator shop or welding shop should be able to fix it as long as the metal itself is ok. There are no direct replacements available from any aftermarket company in the US. Recently it was found that there is a possible replacement available in Mexico (almost ALL of their turbo cars were intercooled due to fuel quality and altitude), but nobody has been able to source one in the US as of yet that I know of. There is an option, if you can get one, Turbos Unleashed has made a few batches of aluminum direct replacement TII radiators (what is used in the Masi). I don't know if he has any left however. They weren't cheap, but well made.

I have been thinking about the sub mounting as well and was thinking of modifying the spare tire storage area and put the amps in the trunk under the soft top shelf. As for the air ride...I'm going to ask a very uneducated question...why do you need such a large tank? I understand it if you are using the system as somebody might at a car show, etc. but I really would have no intention of doing that. I just want to set the car up the way I like it and leave it be. I have a race car if I want to muck around with suspension settings all day.