Alfa

Thank you 34Airflow, that is really helpful, and you have inspired me to have another look at it!! And a strap wrench, of course. I will see if I can get one to grip the centre boss. I will see where I get to this Saturday, when I have some shed-time planned! Thanks again Adam..

Thank you gentlemen for your comments. Just for reference, my steering wheel hub is just like the one in the photos of the Australian 1934 CU posted by Countrytraveler just below. I did not realise that there would be such a specialised puller for the wheel. But in any case, I do not want to damage the steering wheel horn push ring, so I may just leave it alone. I reckon if I disconnect the draglink, I will be able to move the steering box enough to deal with the broken manifold stud without removing it altogether. I would like to sort out the notchy steering and it feels as though it may be the bearing in the steering column which is dry. But it is completely inaccessible without removing the steering wheel to release the outer steering column sleeve from the inner steering column shaft. Unless, of course, you know different !! Adam..

Hello I need to remove the steering wheel on my 1935 Airflow SE. The wheel has a horn push in the middle, which is secured by a wide bezel, which is fixed to the wheel centre by a screw thread, about 4 inches in diameter. I know this because I also have an old unit steering box and column that I was able to examine. Now my question is this:- How can I undo the screwed on bezel? There is no means to hold it other than by hand and it is too tight to shift by hand. Obviously I do not want to damage the parts. Any ideas or previous experience of how to shift the bezel? The reason I am doing this is because I am fitting a new exhaust manifold and need to deal with a broken stud in the cylinder block, which means I need to move the steering column. That is an opportunity in itself, since I have a very gritty bearing in the box or column (not sure which yet) which has made the steering "notchy" for as long as I have had the car. I thought this was I nice opportunity to sort that out. The steering box will not go through the hole in the fire wall, so I need to remove the steering wheel and possibly the outer sleeve of the column (which will not separate from the box without removing the steering wheel). It is all a bit awkward really... Thanks Adam..

It does indeed. Seeing all the pics makes me wish I had not parted with my 60 Flattop. I do miss that car. Adam..

Congrats on the new acquisition. It looks nice in the photos. I am really looking forward to reading of your exploits with the car. As I mentioned on your other thread, I used to own a 60 Electra flat-top for about 15 years and really loved it, although it had to go because it took up too much room and too much fuel (at UK prices). I even did a rebuild on the 401 and now have a lot of respect for that engine. Mine suffered a build up of carbon in the inlet ports which nearly blocked on of them and also a lot of wear on the camshaft, which i replaced. It went very well too. Good luck with yours. Adam..

I would also like to see the photos, having owned a 1960 Electra hardtop for 15 years. It is gone now, but sadly missed. I really enjoyed that car. Adam..

Really interesting work. Please keep posting!! Adam..

Hi Compression. I take your point. It will be an interesting project in any case. Please do keep us updated with your progress and lots of photos please (!). Like you, I am not much into showing, preferring to drive the car and take part in events that involve driving/competing like long distance rallies, racing trials etc. I will be watching your progress and the mods with interest. I am interested to see what you do about wheels & tyres, for instance. Adam..

Nice car! Where do you find a trunk like that?

Hi Compression. I am so glad that you are enjoying getting the 57 sorted. But do you really need front discs? I would ask myself, am I really going to drive this 60 year old car, with 60 year old roadholding, so hard that I encounter brake fade? I owned a 1960 Electra fro 15 years and the brakes, once rebuilt, were excellent. They used to stop the rollers on the annual inspection! In my very humble opinion, it would be quicker, cheaper, easier and less contentious to restore the original set up. Just my opinion and it is your car.....no offence intended. Adam..

Is this sorted now? Adam..

Me too ! Thanks very much. Adam..

I have a similar problem on my 1925 tourer. I have not had time to investigate yet, so i will be looking out for any advice here. Thanks Adam..

You have a dead short to earth. If you have just recently changed the brushes in the dynamo, it may be that you have inadvertently allowed the wiring connections on the brushes to touch the dynamo casing, causing a short circuit. Check the brushes and also check where you have rewired the switch that there is no short to earth there. I would suggest setting the third brush in the middle of it`s range of adjustment. Too much charge boils the battery and burns away the brushes. Adam..

Hi. I have a 34 De Soto Aorflow, but no spare running boards. You may end up having to fabricate some. Shouldn`t be too tricky.

Hello Mike I agree with JoneD. You almost certainly have a split diaphragm in the fuel pump. The hole is there to let the fuel escape in such circumstances. Replace the fuel pump, they are quite cheap and easy to do. If the pump is old, you might find that the flexible hoses are perished too. Replace them while you are there, it is an important safety item. You may well need to change the engine oil & filter too, because petrol may have leaked into the sump. I had a 60 Electra flat top for about 15 years and enjoyed it immensely. I was sorry to let it go, but space dictated the move. They are great fun to drive. Enjoy it! Adam..

That sounds awful. I am very glad they have not reached this side of the Atlantic. Please keep Stinkbugs to yourselves !! Adam..

That is an astonishing record. Congratulations!!

I am glad that you found the problem, but what on earth is a stinkbug????? I was going to suggest checking that you had the correct oil filter and not one with a valve in it that would block the oli flow, but you are all sorted now. Adam..

Hi Jazzer I am impressed that you were able to do the job without removing the hood (crane clearance). When I had the engine out of My SE (6 cyl) I remember it being a pretty tight fit. Thanks for sharing the pics though. Fascination stuff. How about some views of the whole car? Adam..

Hi Brandon Any progress with the `49? Adam..

I took my test in a Nissan Cherry in September 1983, three weeks after my 17th birthday (the minimum age for driving here). Passed first time too, but I had been driving my dad`s Model T around the yard since I was eight.. The Nissan was the driving school car, but by coincidence, my first car was an older Nissan Cherry. I caned it mercilessly and looking back, it is a wonder that I survived some of my early driving exploits. Adam..

Hi Rod I have always found US Automotive in Bedford very helpful. They may not have what you need in stock, but can get most anything. Not far away from you either. http://usautomotive.co.uk/ Hope this helps. Adam..

Hi Having read your post here and on the PAC forum, I am pretty sure that the little ball should not be floating around. I suspect this is your problem. There really should be no need to get a professional rebuild. But do look again at the parts in the carb, and think it through logically. Without doing any research (and it is 20 years since I did one of these carbs), I think the ball may be a one-way valve toallow petrol into the accerlerator pump area, and to hold it there for when the pump operates. If it is loose, i think that the pump is just pushing fuel back into the float bowl. Hope this helps. Adam. (from the PAC forum).