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I have a 1994 Mercury Capri that has been sitting out in theweathr for a couple of years a has been started at least once a moth successfully during that time. This last time it refused to. It spins over but wont catch. Ive found that it is not getting fuel to the engine. The electric fuel pump looked rusty and crusty when I pulled it so I replaced it. Still no fuel to the engine. This system does not prime the pump when the key is turned to the on position. The engine must be spinning in order to actvate a vane/door thru a vacuum to energize the fuel pump relay which in turn energizes the pump in the fuel tank. This vehicle is based on the MAZDA 323 chassis and 1.6L MPI 4cyl driveline. I believe it was still OBD1 diagnostics in 1994 but my old OBD1 scantool disappeared years ago. I have a 1994 FSM dor this Capri but I haven't found much I can narrow it down to besides the no fuel delivery issue. Ive checked the roll over switch in the trunk and it seems to be OK. It has new sparkplugs and wires. New fuel pump and strainer sock. New main fuel filter. New coil. No blown fuses. And a full tank of gas. Thoughts welcome!

Has anyone tried ENVIROSAFE12???

The driverside signal is the one not blinking. I switched out the relays under the hood and a good relay that worked in the right blinker position would not work in the left position but worked again when replaced in the right position. As I understand it if ONLY one blinker is working it eliminates the relays up under the driverside dash area, right? Only thing else is possibly a bulb? A difference in resistnce like a bad bulb that makes the signal blink very fast? How many bulbs do the blinking? I think only two bulbs illuminate in the rear (a dark area between the two lit bulbs!) an it looks like just two in front come on when manually operating the turn signal stalk. Ive become faily good at simulating the turn signal but miss my blinker....

1990 Coupe driverside turn signal illuminates both front and rear but doesnt blink. Isnt there a couple of relays under the hood in the power center box that control the blinker function? One for the left and one for the right?

The plugs are ACs.

Harmonic balancer worn out possibly?

In a recent thread of mine it was suggested that a .060in sparkplug gap should be used with the Delco coil conversion and a .045in sparkplug gap with the stock Magnavox coils. My sparkplugs were all still gapped at what the FSM noted (.060in, my thinking it to be the FSM gospel) when I started that thread. During that thread I replaced the older(7yrs) Magnavox coil with new Magnavox coil and just for comparison I regapped the plugs at .045ln. It still starts with just a tap of the ignition key but I have detected a slightly noticable rough idle. But I havent driven the car enough until recently to see any other difference in anything like seat of the pants Power or MPG. If I recall it was said that the FSM reference to the .060in sparkplug gap was for a "fresh" ignition system. Would the fact I have installed a new Magnavox coil somewhat refreshing the ignition system and gapped the sparkplugs at the suggested .045in possibly be the reason for my rough idle? For unforseen reasons I will be using the '90 Coupe as a daily driver this Winter (after rust-proofing the underside) so possibly I will be able to see if the smaller .045in gap will be best as the new Magnavox coil gets some use and age on it. Thanks all!

I think Ive found the reason(s) for my operating temperature miss finally. I regapped the SPARKPLUGS to .045 from .060 and the miss was still there at warmup. I removed the EGR and it was carboned up to the point that the PINTAL movement was affected so I cleaned it so it moved freely. Again the miss remained. My new ICM came in the mail so I installed it. I did notice that the old ICM was really corroded on the bottom as well as on the mounting bracket. If I recall isnt this where the unit gets its ground? Once I got the ICM and new COIL installed I started the engine and idled it to operating temperature. NO MORE MISS!!!! I dont think I put anything on engine that actually wouldnt need to be replaced. Ive had it almost 8 years and only put a crank sensor on it if I recall so this way I got most of it out of the way instead of an on going PITA sensor replacement issue dragging on all winter! Thankfully DAVES89 got it right....the ICM. Thanks to everyone who helped figure this out! Youre all amazing!!!

My 1990 fsm shows the sparkplug gap should be .060. Is this an error

I know one should always start simple. Just a thought. Could a bad gascap be the culprit? I did put a locking cap on a few weeks ago....before this all started.

The miss is obvious at idle only once it warms up and from then forward. Hills are even more "straining" to get up once the miss starts. Im going to try and dig out my injector noids to see if the injectors are ok. The main thing that baffles me is the fact that the engine only misses when car reaches operating temps. It runs fine upon cold start up with just a touch of the key! When it gets to the point it reaches operating temperature it like...pow...the miss starts. Also, I ordered a new ignition module for under the coils.

Would the ignition module be so consistant in producing the engine miss exactly when the system goes into closed loop? The engine starts, idles and doesnt miss a beat until it reaches operating temperature. Then it justs starts in like its only running on 4-5 cylinders. I started it cold this morning and let it idle until it reached normal temperature and it was like throwing a switch......misses.

I will be cleaning the EGR and hoping its the problem. Ive checked the fuel pressure (its #41). Would a bad temperature sensor be causing the problem? As to the hard start with the Convertible, I cleaned the IAC hole and pintle. They were carboned but not real bad. It seemed to be a little easier to start and reached normal idle fairly well. Better than previously. I will post back my results with the EGR cleaning on the Coupe.

Can this issue possibly be EGR related???

So far on the Coupe I have replaced the plug wires and checked plug gap A.060, O2 sensor, coils and put in a new radiator. It still starts very quickly by just tapping the key. But when it goes to closed loop at operating temperature it develops a miss and noticable power loss. Something is triggering the miss when it reaches operating temperature. Ideas appreciated.

Theres no evidence of coolant on the oul dipstick and no bubbles in the overflow coolant jug. The radiator was dripping coolant around where the upper hose clampes to the radiator. Just started this after I had replaced old sparkplug wires so I hadnt driven the car. Could I be so lucky to have avoided getting coolznt into the transmission? Transmission fluid on the dipstick looks normal.

Happened to check the coolant level....chocolate milkshake under the radiator cap. Oil dipstick level looks normal. Headgasket on rear bank. Middle sparkplug looks rust color.

My under hood decsl states .060 as the factory gap setting..

I installed new plug wires on the Coupe but it still has a miss. I will be spraying the MAF next. I checked the plug gap and all 6 were at .060. They all appeared normal. Post results tomorrow.

If I recall the Convertible issue was the coil. Now it also is acting the same as the Coupe...missing/loss of power ay operating temperature.

Any ideas???

OK...I replaced the Oxygen Sensor. Started the car anjd idled it to operating temperature. It started to miss again when it went into closed loop like before. I tried to get the codes but the cluster is intermittent. What ever it is is happening when the system is going into closed loop. Any thoughts appreciated!

I spoke to soon...its back to missing at idle when it goes into closed loop. Cold start and it runs well but once it reaches operating temperature it loses power and is missing. I have a new Oxygen Sensor so I"ll be installing that and reporting results.

I replaced the coil pack and it seems to have cleared up the closed loop misfire. just touching the key starts the engine and its running very smooth now. Thanks all!!!

I recently purchased a removable hardtop for a 1994 Mercury Capri that I rescued from a 16yr old planning to put a tall ricer looking aluminum wing on the trunk deck. Its not matching color wise. The car is red and the top is teal green. It mainly protects the interior as the soft top needs replaced. I have acquired a new soft top and Im waiting for milder temps before I replace it. The design of the hardtop takes away from the ascetics of the car in my opinion along with the color deference. It almost seems like the hardtops design was an after thought. But it serves its purpose of keeping the weather out of the interior for the present.