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Ive been incapacitated with an injured knee and one of the other convertibles and havent gotten back to the Coupe.

I had the symptoms of a bad crank sensor with the engine starting and when it reached operating temperature it would stall. I went ahead and checked fuel pressure (41lbs) and it held dropping to 35lbs with engine turned off. I checked codes and it seems there is a problem with the display that doesn't allow the letters and numbers to display entirely making it difficult to correctly read the codes. I proceeded by swapping out the Crank Sensor. Started engine and upon reaching operating temperature it stalled as before. I had left the Fuel Pressure Gauge attached and it displayed the original (KOEO) 41lbs after the stall. The Coils are new also. Can I rule out the oil pressure switch killing the fuel pump because of the 41lbs of fuel pressure displayed after the stall???? The faulty code display is making this into a mystery.

As I posted previously it appears the tube going to the evaporator has an ever-so-slight downward bend to it. Its enough to stop the new orifice tube and leave the long screen end with about 1/2in sticking out. Possibly the PO had yarned on it for some reason or other. The fitting and tube surface showed no distress marks except for that slight downward curve. Maybe the fact its bent has something to do with the fact no old orifice tube being present when I separated the fitting? Someone had obviously been into it. Going to do the evaporator flush suggested next. Thanks to 89Red and all for hanging in there!!!!

89Red....your pic of the 1990 evaporator (ROCKAUTO) is what my evaporator plumbimg looks like. As the 1990 FSM states "...the short screen end of the orifice tube inserts towards the evaporator ..." So your original answer is the correct one for a 1990 system! Short screen end always towards the evaporator and long screen end always towards the condenser for 1990 systems. I wonder why they needed to switch it up like that?

89Red...I believe you had it right the first time if my 1990 FSM is correct. It illustrates on page 1B-4 that for orifice tube replacement "install with shorter screen end toward evaporator and use new o-ring seals"

The aluminum line going thru the firewall to the evaporator appears to have an ever-so-slight curve and only allows the new orifice tube to go in to where about a half an inch remains out of the line. It seems to be seated as far as the orifice tubes o-ring is concerned. I don't see how it can migrate any further. New O-rings are being installed as I work my way towards the ACCUMULATOR. I think I'm resigned to having to pull the radiator to access the back of the compressor to remove the 15mm bolt holding the hoses to it.

Yes...I used a flashlight and theres nothing in the line. I will try and align it correctly and get it to to seat. I sure need to pick up the pace or I will be shoveling snow...but I'll have AC... Next is getting to that 15mm bolt holding the hoses on the compressor that go to the accumulator....any way to get to it without radiator removal?

My initial attempt to insert the orifice tube had it stopping with about a half inch of the long end left sticking out of the line. I didnt force it. Maybe it needs to be twisted slightly to get a little further past the dimples? I'm replacing green o-rings as I go and using silicon paste.

I finally got started on the 90 convertible AC problems starting with the orifice tube replacement. Got the lines opened and to my surprise...NO ORIFICE TUBE! Is it possible to run the AC system without an orifice tube? I'm sure I opened the correct line. The one at the top of the firewall...smaller of the two and has the dimples a few inches back from the end. Also, does the short end of the orifice tube go towards the evaporator or does the long end?

Thank you, Barney.

The ac system has been converted to R134a by PO. Was performing fine for a few seasons before compressor manifold tube cracked. I'm wondering about how many cans of R134a refrigerant it will require to recharge after I vacuum the system.?

I'm redoing the AC system on my 1990 Coupe. The AC system was converted over to R134a refridgerant by the PO and worked fine for a couple of seasons before a cracked pipe at the hose coming off the compressor happened. I'm wondering what the correct orifice needed if different from the original R-12 tube. The difference of the different refridgerants at the molecular level being considered.

My crankbolt isn't 18mm...its apparently 23mm. I also noted my 23mm impact socket has disappeared so I have to go buy a replacement. I did notice that when I pulled the electrical plug from the sensor that there was lots of oil present IN the sensor. No wonder it failed.

I am about to tackle the crank position sensor on my 90 coupe. I have replaced the harmonic balancer on my 90 convertible a year ago when it started chattering. Unfortunately I can only find my 1988 FSM and it doesn't refer to the bracket that shields the sensor. It appears to support the little damper shock on that side of the engine. I don't recall there being any issue with removing this bracket to get the HB off of the 90 convertible. Will there be a bolt alignment issue when putting the bracket back onto the block (two bolts)? Also, as I recall I used an electric impact gun to get the crankshaft bolt out. I hope that's OK..... Thanks.

Put the wire up on the little metal tab but it didn't work. Ive been releasing the rear of the top and manually popping the hard tonneau cover to access the little orange emergency release lever with a long wooden handled squeegie while having my umbrella propped up under the lip of the trunk. Also...replaced the #2 BODY fuse that was blown. Still doesn't pop the trunk up enough. I'm thinking maybe the solenoid isn't releasing the latch enough to let trunk deck release. Is there any adjustment that I'm missing?

ICM is only two weeks old. When this problem first started I automatically checked to see if the ICM was spewing green slime. There was green goop on the coolant hose below it so I swappd on my spare I keep for such a situation. Its starting to look like the CPS may be the culprit.

Took delivery of new fuel pressure tester and hooked it up. It read 40psi and 15min later it was at 36psi. It started right up with previously charged battery. Once the engine had warmed up to 4th bar on temp gauge it died.

Could an undercharged/weak battery cause the same symptoms? Ive got a fuel pressure tester ordered.

I first had a problem starting the Coupe a couple weeks ago. I do get the fuel pump buzz and stopping. It finally started. Now it will intermittantly start and idle fine for a minute or two and just die as if I turned the key off. Now it will only turn over and catch then idle a few seconds and die . I noticed the coil packs were leaking so I replaced with a new one. Still starting then stalling out. Thoughts appreciated.

I'm getting ready to recharge my previously converted to r134a 1990 AC system and have the green set of O-rings for the job. My question is do these green O-rings require some silicon on them when installed? I recall doing that in the past but I'm not sure it was with green O-rings or even with r134a refridgerant.. I think the r134a refridgerant is smaller sized moleculer-wise and whether or not that would require the silicone to achieve a better seal at the O-rings may be the case.

I have cracked AC aluminum tubing where it comes off the compressor itself and the hoses start to go to the accumulator thus losing all the r134a refridgerant. I have acquired everything to fix the problem. The system worked fine for a couple of Summer seasons and had been converted to r134a by the previous owner. I'm wondering what high and low pressures I should look for when I recharge the system. Ive heard that the r134a conversion in the Reatta AC system only requires approximately 80% of the original R-12 pressures. Like possibly HIGH side 180 and LOW side 40 maybe??? I'm considering using ENVIROSAFE-12 which requires even lower system pressures which would put even less strain pressurewise on the system.

It seems like my convertible has acquired gremlins over the winter in both the trunk and tonneau release mechanisms. I posted prior to this post about the trunk release problem now I'm having to open the tonneau by using the levers manually after pulling the lever to release the rear of the top. Sliding the tonneau release button up doesn't work. Isnt this supposed to activate a solenoid to pop the tonneau up? It doesn't click at all. Would this be controlled by a fuse?

Using Barneys pic as reference, it appears my horizontal WIRE is not in the horizontal position but below the metal tab when trunk is open. I will try putting the WIRE back in the same horizontal position as the pic and see if it works. Thanks all.

My convertible trunk will CLICK when the release button is pushed but will not open. Any thoughts appreciated.