ptt

Getting the droptop tweeked for summer and its amazing how many small problems you come across when you finally have the time to tinker. My buttons for the trunk and gas door solinoids just stopped working. Is there a shared fuse that operates them. Or a ground?

My power windows in both the coupe and convertible have stopped going down at about the 1/3rd down position and doing the ratcheting noise. They will go back up to close tho. Sounds like something has stripped or something?

The exterior handle on my driverside door has broken on the right-hand side. It appears to be cheaply made of pot-metal. Is there another GM vehical model that uses the same simple design that would interchange?

It was a Westlake Hardware store that wanted $75 for a key. Sounded like something Id get quoted at a Dealership. I dealt with a young kid that didn't really act like he knew cat poo from a candy kiss. His boss was not in the store. Probably had a scam going on with the cashier or something. I'm going to seek another location. I haven't checked the resistors in my three Reatta keys so this is a good wake up to get that taken care of. I guess measuring the key chips with a DVM is on my list first thing tomorrow. Thanks everyone!!!

Whats the going price to get a Reatta VATS key duplicated?

I see Reattas regularly around the KCMO area.

Its listed on the Kansas City Craigslist. Cheap for a ragtop?

Theyre about $75 around here.

Is it possible to swap the VATS chip out of one key to another? Arent they just pressed in?

Ive finally gotten time to get the '90 Convertibles steering column (Thanks JIM FINN once again!!!!!) changed out but fighting with the pinchbolt where the column goes thru the firewall. It got very hard to tighten about 3/4ths way back into the collar. Also came upon what I think is the after market wiring splice job for the aftermarket AM/FM/CD or at least it appears to trace back up to the upper center of the console where the radio is. I havent gotten to the point of plugging in the column harness to the dash harness yet. The under dash labor has given me very sore ribs from working upside down and either bent backwards over seat and/or the doorsill!!! I believe Id have been better off removing the drivers seat for this job. At least I can get that replacement horn button installed thats been sitting in the glovebox for years!!! I assuming that plugging the harnesses back in is all thats left and of course the AIRBAG.....any special concern with that??? Battery will remain disconnected until the very last proceedure I believe.

I have numerous gremlins I need to vanquish from a 1994 93k mile Capri. I have the FSM for it that's seen better days. It's got just about every other page smeared with grease like a finger painting of the dark side of the moon!!! Its been sitting for two winters going on three. Its been started about every three months. I know it was running cuz I parked it out back of the garage. It was showing the signs of either a bad fan motor or some sensor not turning the fan on so it was starting to over heat a couple of times but turned off before it melted anything. I did notice that the hydraulic clutch reservoir was dry by this Summer. I'm thinking its leaking somewhere. Id like the idea of a 35+mpg car regardless of the lower price of fuel right now so I don't think I want to get rid of it. I just retired recently so I have no excuses not to repair it. I traded a rust free 1984 Turbo 4cyl Lebaron Convertible from Colorado for it....from a 16 year old kid who wanted a "Grandma Sleeper". Regretted it every since. The kid had the Lebaron torn up within 3 months. Anyway, I'm hoping to find someone on this forum familiar with this vehical so I can get it back in drivable condition. I'm currently taking stock of all the problems with the car. First would be the fan not coming on when the engine gets to operationg temperature. I will start with checking the fan electrical connections and fan motor condition. tThen on to the clutch and slave cylinder for their condition. I recall there was a problem with the heater too. It is a problem with the blend door opening to allow heat into the cabin. It would only get luke warm on wintery days. The 16 year old had spliced led interior lights into whatever wire he found with voltage. Shouldve tipped me off to the fate awaiting the old Lebaron. Anyway, I will be back with questions on this one. -PTT

I have successfully disabled the airbag and removed the snapring and the circular wire retainer ring. I have the ignition lock with the stuck key hanging by its two wires out of the column. Whats the procedure from here? Should I cut the ignition wire(s) and pull it out of the column upwards or downwards? I think I'm winding some lightweight wire to allow me to fish the new ORANGE WIRE/LOCK mechanism back thru. Thoughts appreciated!

I need to replace the ignition lock and need to disconnect the airbag to get the steering wheel off. Whats the procedure?

Hahahaha.....As I begin retirement it might be a good idea to keep a box of that as a precaution!!!! I have a whole column with key but got it for my 1988. Would there be a difference with electrica connectors? Then theres the diffence in the chip in the 1990 ignition key! Thank you all for your help!

Ronnie....I failed to proof read my reply!!!! That should read "Your article mentions being able to shift" I didnt get the "f" in shift entered.....sorry!!!

Im dealing with a weeping water pump on my 1990 Coupe tomorrow that is losing a gallon of coolant every 20 miles!!! Im officially RETIRED tomorrow (my 66th birthday on the 4th of August) so maybe I will be able to catch up on all the maint. these vehicles are craving!!!

RONNIE.....I read the info you posted. As my 1990 convertible sits right now the key is in the RUN position and not removable. I can start the engine...shift to all positions...but the key will not turn counter clockwise to the OFF position to be able to remove the key. I actually drove it today. Got back home and had to pull off 4 plug wires at the box to stall the engine in order to stop it running. Your article mentions being sble to shit...it drives and shifts normally.

I cant find my steering wheel puller so I need to get one. First thing will be deactivatting the air bag. Isnt that done by battery disconnection?

I finally got time to start repairing the ignition switch in the 1990 convertible, I forgot to state which year it is. It has the little chip in the ignition key so does the column have the operating rod in it??? I got as far as taking the access panel off and it looks like a rats nest of wiring around the steering column. I have a new ignition lock. Its an AC DELCO. It has a white wire with an electrical connector on the end and an orange sleeve on it. Its about 18in long. I suppose I need to find a connector that the new ignition lock will plug into. Been extremely hot here in K.C.

For some reason fuse position #17 was EMPTY! I have absolutely no idea why because Ive never accessed that #17 fuse since Ive owned the vehicle. The trunk and gascap access door have worked flawlessly for years! Im baffled.....and NOBODY has repaired anything on the car except a flat tire that I removed, had repaired and replaced myself so the lugnuts got torqued properly. My only inclination is I pulled the 20A fuse for one of the other accessories and CRS kicked in and just dont recall doing it. I had a body fuse issue a few years ago but that was way before the buttons quit working. Early dementia onset possibly. Thanks to all for your knowlege and excellent assistance

Im confused.....if fuse #17 is for the trunk/gas door then how does it control these functions if its empty/fuseless???

The the buttons have been inoperable for about two weeks before the ignition key stuck last night.

Both buttons have stopped working. Thoughts?

I got home last night and put the car in PARK....went to turn the key off and it wouldn't turn off. The key wont turn back to the off position for removal. Its stuck in the RUN position and will not come out! I had to disconnect the battery and put the car in gear to stall the engine. As it was late I waited until morning to check it out. I left the key where it was stuck in the ignition switch. I reconnected the battery and tried to start the engine but now it will just keep cranking but not starting. I'm stumped between thinking the ignition switch is kaput or something else transmission/shifter related. Thanks for any thoughts.

I am about to start repairing the AC on both of my 1990 Reattas. They have both been converted to R134a by PO. My problem is the convertible has a broken metal manifold pipe between the compressor and the accumulator and I'm have trouble finding the correct gaskets/O-rings startingwitht the manifold at the compressor. I believe if I had part #s I could find them locally. Ive already found a replacement manifold at the local pick-n-pull. Any help appreciated. Thanks. -PT