Bullfrog_eng
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Posts posted by Bullfrog_eng
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G'day Ian.
Going back to page 18, you used Selleys D-Mastic to seal your roof insert. Two questions, roughly how much did you use, was one tube (400 gm) enough? Also, has this skinned off enough to be not damaged by washing, chamois, etc.
About to tackle this for the DA, not something I am looking forward to I must admit!
Thanks,
John
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Bob, yes I wondered that. My DA did not have the corner lamps and the positioning of the main interior lamp was about level with the front of the rear seat, giving good light to the rear passengers, but probably pretty poor for the driver and front passenger. I have moved it forward (same position as in above drawings) but turned it around, to make the switch easier to get to from the front seat. Not as it was, of course, but no one will know (unless they read this!!!).
John
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Thanks Tom, all very helpful when one is as "wood challenged" as I am (I am deeply suspicious of anything I can't weld!!). The plymouth construction is somewhat different to the DA, which has a few different challenges, for me anyway. I will comment on those later, but I need to know that what I am doing is going to work first.
So far so good.
John
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I have just about finished the basic frame including the cross bows. I have the remains of my old roof on hand and have been using that to confirm what I am doing. The measurements above have been mostly spot on and a big help, but the piece of timber for the interior light has me puzzled. My old roof, and the hole in the metal trim surrounding the roof frame for the wiring indicate that the light on my car was about a foot back from what is indicated above. It would make the light about 4' 8" from the front of the roof.This seems silly to me as it would not provide much lighting for the people in the front seat, not to mention difficult to turn on from the front seat. I have pretty well decided to move it forward, to the position shown in the above drawings, as it seems more practical, although not as was original in my car. But I just wondered if Bob or anyone else has found this?
Thanks,
John
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Hope this helps.
Note though that it is the right hand side of a "right hand drive" car.
You may have to imagine it back to front!!
John
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Thanks Bob and Dave.
Glad I asked, it is not quite what I was expecting.
John
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G'day Dave.
Any chance of a photo of the blind with tassel?
Just not sure exactly what it should look like.
Thanks, John
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Thanks Bob.
Thought that was the case, just wanted to be sure..
Will see how we go and let you know.
John
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Bob,
I am about to start on my roof and have found your drawings and comments from this post very helpful. I am however unsure of how you took your measurements.
Do I take it that in the “side profile”, this is indicating the curvature of the timber on the perimeter of the hood insert, or is this the roof center line? How did you then determine the curvature of the individual cross bows, or is that what these measurements indicate? I see you have given the curvature of the front and rear profiles separately.
Thanks for any help.
John
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Wish I could find something funny or inspiring to say. But I can't, so just good luck and best wishes.
John
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Ian,
I too wondered how you were getting on, as I have been missing your inspirational updates. Then I saw your letter in "Restored Cars" (I presume it was you), so figured you were still around. Reassuring to see other people get interrupted from Dodge stuff too, not only me!!.
Good luck with it all.
John
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That puts us about the same age and nearly as long ago when I pulled mine to bits. Kept most stuff, even if only good for patterns and to jog my memory. Also a lot of notes on how it all fitted together. Even so, my memory is nowhere near as good as I hoped it would be at this stage. But that's life, isn't it? That is why this forum is so great, there is always someone that knows or can remember. What would we do without it (and digital photography).
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Thanks Keiser.
It is making sense now. It's a long time since I pulled it all to bits!!
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Thanks Bob, great photo. I am sure you are right and I am happy now.
Just wanted to make sure I was not missing something
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I am in the process of re-fitting the timber to the inside of my DA body, that the upholstery attaches to. I have kept most of the original timber, much is usable but some I am only using as a pattern. But I am confused about the area either side of the rear window.
There is timber at the top, but at the bottom of the rear window, linking with the bottom of the side window, there is a shaped angle iron piece. This piece has a couple of counter sunk holes in it, as though wood screws would go through it into some timber. Should there be some timber there? Have I lost those pieces? How does the curved upholstery panel in those back corners attach? Obviously to the timber at the top, but what about the bottom?
Hope this makes sense, along with the picture.
Thanks, John
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Very true, although it does sort of sit below floor level and below the level of the aluminum edging on the floorboards.
Did you re-use that edging? Mine was too far gone so I used stainless steel.
Perhaps people were more careful in 1929???
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Took some photos, it is all a bit rough, but hopefully it may help a bit.
The windlace matches the headlining and goes right round the door opening, I suspect the "join" would be at the bottom. The bottom part of the windlace is wrapped in the seat covering (and door card) material, so everything below the bottom of the window level matches the seats, everything above matches the headlining. The covered windlace is held in place at the bottom of the doors by the door plates. Everywhere else it is tacked to the wood panels attached to the body framework that the upholstery is attached to. In the photo, I have only part of the windlace, it should go right round and meet up.
Regarding the rear seat, carpet covers the vertical part from the floor to the "ledge" that the seat sits in, about 5.25 inches. The front face of the front ledge that the seat sits in has a thin piece of wood attached that is covered in seat material.
I have not started on my upholstery yet, but I tried to keep a fair bit of the original stuff to help jog my memory when I do. It is all pretty sad and incomplete though. Still, better than nothing.
Hope this helps.
John
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G'day Dave.
Much appreciate your offer. I have been looking around here for a while with no success, so when you are able to get to your shed, I would be most interested.
Perhaps we could swap a bit of weather. I just checked and it is 48.3 deg. C (that's near enough to 119 deg. F) under my pergola just outside my house, at 1.30 in the afternoon. If only we could find a happy medium!!! Don't think much more will get done in my shed this afternoon either.
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Yes I have tried Meyers and they can't help.
I have a number of type C myself, but of course not what I need.
John
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Will have a look at what is left of mine tomorrow and see if I can work it out.
John
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Hopefully someone can confirm or otherwise my thoughts and even more hopefully someone can help me get some of the correct clamps.
Also, if I am using incorrect terminology, please correct me.
DA wood spoked wheels come in two types, generally called (around here) Wide Felloe and Narrow Felloe.
The wheels that I am using are Narrow Felloe
These are pictures of the DA Dodge wood spoked wheel clamps (to hold the rim on the felloe).
I need four off type A.
I could use type B, but would need a full set of 16, as while they are interchangeable, they look slightly different.
Type C is no good to me at all, as they fit the wide felloe rims and are slightly higher.
The second photo is of the other side of the clamp, showing the tongue that stops the rim from turning on the felloe. All three types look similar in this respect.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
John
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Bob,
saw your post, but had a look at what photos I had and thought others would have better. Since no one else has replied, these may be better than nothing.
They were taken of a very original DA in Adelaide, South Australia. Unfortunately for you, I took them to indicate how the original paint was applied when I painted mine, but it does show the door plates.
Good luck.
John
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Robert,
saw your post this morning and have been thinking of you all day. What can I say? Just wish you all the best and hope it all turns out OK in the end, well as good as can be hoped for anyway. Good luck.
John
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Richard, so glad you are a few steps ahead of me with the DA restoration, THANKS!!
Love the duct tape, you have obviously learned from the Red Green Show.
John
The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
I look forward to being inspired and motivated by your posts. Those photos will do (for now !!!).
Get fit quick.