Bullfrog_eng
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Posts posted by Bullfrog_eng
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Bob (or anyone else as well!!), was intending to ask soon, but this is as good a time as any. How did you achieve the profiles for the bows and also the longitudinal timbers? Were they bent/steamed, or cut from solid timber to that profile? It is just about next on my list to do, but I have trouble with anything I can't weld!!
John
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As Bob says, there should be no terminal block on a DA that I am aware of. I have fitted a new wiring harness to my DA and it did not have any terminal block connections and my DA did not have any terminal block anyway.
I would suggest that the one you are working on may have been modified at some time.
Regards, John
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Yes, there is a keyway, after you remove the nut holding it on, wheel should pull straight off. You may need a puller to get it off.
My steering wheel had a number of cracks that I ground out then filled with epoxy resin coloured with black cement dye, the powdered stuff that you add to concrete to make driveways, etc, black (because I had some on hand). Then sanded the whole wheel with fine wet and dry emery paper and it came up quite good after I buffed the whole thing. Only problem is the epoxy is a bit harder than the wheel, so you have to be a bit careful that you get an even finish.
Good luck.
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For the DA (the ones I have been involved with), the branching pieces were one piece and pressed around the asphalt covering to make the join. The tabs were then crimped together. In other words, the branching pieces hold the Asphalt covering in place. Hope the photos show that. Rust holes optional extra!
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My 1928 DA had the asphalt ducting WITH the metal branches. When I had a new loom made up (by Vintage Wiring Harness in Australia), I was asked to supply the metal branches, which I did, although from memory I needed to scrounge a couple from another loom, as some were a bit rusty.
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Can you use a bent piece of wire through the spark plug hole? Sort of flattened Z shape? Have used that on some engines, but not sure if it will work on yours, but with a bit of juggling you may be able to get it in place to feel the piston when near top of stroke and turn crank and feel when actually at TDC.
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Bob,
it is my understanding that the window glass fits in the rubber which then fits in the bottom metal channel. That would make your setting tape redundant if I am understanding this correctly. That is not what you want to hear, as you have already fitted it. I have not got that far yet, but have an additional problem in that my new window glass is 5 mm thick, not 1/4 inch. That means I have a lot of head scratching to do. I will probably have a good talk to the rubber firm that I deal with, but they are 50 miles away, so won't get around to that till next week. Good luck.
John
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Thanks Bob and Dave, I think I have it sorted in my mind now. Much of my rubber is missing/melted/out of shape that it is often difficult to know what it should have looked like, especially when you pulled it to bits many years ago, when I had a much better memory and thought I would remember forever.
Dave, I will stop using that word, I thought it was a universal description but I know better now. You blokes will educate me yet!
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Thanks Dave, and yes, I have a Budd body. I was not aware that they used the rubber setting channels on the four doors, but it makes sense of course. I was aware of the the sponge rubber at the top of the door glass, but I am not sure of the rear quarter windows. It appears to me that the Bailey side channel goes up either side but continues across the top (instead of the sponger rubber). I can see no way of mounting sponge rubber, but my existing channels are so badly deteriorated that I am not sure. Are you able to confirm this? Sorry to hijack Bob's thread, but as we are talking about the same thing, I am sure he won't mind. What a coincidence, I picked up my window glass on Friday.
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Just about to start on mine as well. As far as I know, there was no bottom window seal on the doors, the water just ran out the bottom of the door, as has been previously suggested. As you have also noted, this causes problems with the rear quarter windows, as the water would have nowhere to go (except into the interior/sill panel) and cause serious rust problems. Please don't ask how I know this!!. It is my understanding that the rear quarter windows had a solid rubber seal attached to the bottom channel, where it attaches to the glass. When the window is wound fully up, it compresses between the body and the glass, to stop the water entering. Now I have never seen this rubber (long gone on mine, hence the rust problems), so I could be wrong on this, I did see some pictures once, but they were not really clear. I have been thinking of making a sort of tray to catch the water and direct it elsewhere, but have not worked out exactly what I am going to do. A friend did something similar but used pond liner, but I don't think I will go that way. Will be interested to see what you do or others have done. Have just seen Dave's reply and that is the what I have seen before, but in better detail. Was that fitted to front windows as well? Thanks Dave.
By the way, at the top of these quarter windows, does the Bailey Channel go across the top of the window as well as the sides?
John
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What nearchoclatetown says is correct, that is how mine were originally. I did not do it that way because the new inner cable that I bought was just too hard to swedge that way, and I spent a lot of time trying!!. I had no option, as that was all I could get. I suggest that you try your cable before inserting it in the pull shaft, to see if you can swedge it OK, if you can, that would be the way to go. With any luck, what you can get may be soft enough. If all else fails, try my method as a last resort.
John
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Bob,
this is what I did. I had the pulls chromed (probably should have been nickel, but I wanted them to match other fittings that had been chromed), as well as the fittings that they slide into. Beware, as there are two different types, so if you have to use some from another vehicle, the "slot" in the shaft MAY be a different width. I had to get one from another vehicle because the chrome platers wrecked one of mine.
Anyway, I used new inner and outer cables. For the inner cable, I tinned the end of the cable using a large soldering iron and then inserted the cable in the end of the pull shaft. This may be a tight fit, so don't leave much solder on the cable. I then cut a groove in a piece of wood (You can see the slot in the wood in the bottom right of the second photo), this should allow you to line up the cable and the shaft in a straight line as they are of course different thicknesses. I put some aluminium foil under the shaft to minimise the solder running out, and clamped it in position. I then applied the soldering iron to the CABLE and inserted the solder through the hole in the shaft. This should allow the solder to make a good bond with the cable and form a large blob to fill the hole. You may need to clean it up a bit after it has cooled, I used a hacksaw blade to clean the slot.
As I said, I also replaced the outer as well, this I just screwed into the original housing, but had to spread it slightly with a small screwdriver until it was in place. Hope this all makes sense with the photos.
Good luck.
John
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The hole was enlarged and I just welded that up myself, but it was not too bad really. Inside it was pretty good and I did not have to do anything to it but I seem to remember I had another "spare" that was badly worn on the bottom, to the extent that it wore a hole in the bottom of the drag link. Don't think the previous owner knew what grease was, though.
John
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Some years ago I had the steering arm for my DA repaired by Javco Engineering in Mulgrave (Melbourne, Australia). I understand the bloke who owned the business is long departed but not sure if anyone took over from him, anyone in Melbourne know?
Anyway, what he did was turn down the arm to a taper then machine a ball of correct size and to fit the taper. After he hardened the ball he silver soldered the ball to the arm. He used silver solder so that he could minimise the heat so not to destroy the hardening. He also turned up some cups to suit the ball, for the drag link, and hardened them as well. Now I can't say personally how successful this is, as my DA is not on the road yet, but I spoke to a mate only last week who had his DA arm repaired many years ago by the same bloke. He has now done many, many miles in his DA with no problems. The point of this post is simply to explain the method that was used. I am sure that other engineers may well use a similar method, the trick will be to find them!!!
John
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Bob, as far as I know, the only rubber is around the windshield as you say and between the windshield hinge and the body (at the top, I used thin closed cell foam for this). I do not know where this photo came from but it may help.
John
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Thanks nearchclatetown, spot on. The key material is slightly oversize. I have now taken it down to size and it pushes in (firmly) as you suggested. I only had to take it down a couple of thou, so I did that with a piece of emery paper on a sheet of glass, very carefully with lots of measurements to ensure that it was as straight/parallel/square as possible and seemed to work out OK. As you said, it is probably a bit soft, as it was really not that difficult to do, but I think it should be OK. Have emailed Cled, but not heard back from him yet, it is Sunday after all.
I am really kicking myself though. I spent a bit of time checking the keyways but did not think ti check the key itself. Another of life's little learning experiences.
Again, thanks for the help, nearchclatetown and others.
John
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Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. Will look into this further and let you know how I get on.
John
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Ron, should have said, it is very tight in both axle keyway and hub. My thoughts are to give the key a few passes with a file, but was looking for second opinion.
Thanks, John
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On my DA, I am about to replace rear hub (wooden wheel) on the axle. I know this should be done without grease, but what is the correct way to do this? Should the key be put in place on the axle then the hub pushed on, or should the hub go on first, then the key driven in? Also, how tight should the key fit in the keyway? I think the axle is actually NOS, so the keyway is very good, and I have new 5/16 key material, but it is very, very tight. Should I file down slightly?
Thanks, John
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Thanks Bob. Have had a look and now that I know what I am looking for, found it easily. Don't know why I did not spot it before. Your suggestion of transferring the image onto my plate appeals to me as it would help to maintain the integrity of the car. Might try to buy a plate from Romar and see if I can get that done locally.
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Thanks for that, at least it gives me some idea what it should look like.
John
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I am just replacing the floor in my Budd bodied DA Sedan, and in doing so, will preserve the Identification Plates.That is not a problem, but it got me wondering what the actual plate originally looked like. The plate is the one referred to in the owners manual as being on the Toe Board (front floor) inside the car. Mine has the clearly stamped vehicle number, but nothing else is still visible. As it is quite a large plate (about 5 X 2 3/4 inches) and the ID number is relatively small, I assume it originally had something else "painted" on it. Anyone know?
Just out of interest, immediately alongside it was a "Dodge Bros, Six" plate and a "Harden & Johnston Ltd." plate. I believe that Harden & Johnston in Sydney were the importers to Australia, as the car was sold by Waymouth Motor Company in Adelaide (plate on dashboard).
Thanks, John
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As Keiser said.
Part of the hinge should be spot welded to top of windshield frame. The corresponding part is attached to the body. Not sure how originally done, think with metal thread screws (that's what I did anyway) and the two parts of the hinge slide together, little tabs stop it from going too far except when assembling it.
John
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I am extremely pleased, both for you and for the rest of us. Your thread continues to be a fantastic record of both your car and your restoration and I can only imagine your feelings when it mostly went away. It is an inspiration for the rest of us, and a valuable resource as well. There are numerous times when I have come across a similar problem that I have thought "I remember this" and found help from your thread. I am sure I speak for many others.
Congratulations, well done, and keep it up.
John
29 DA sedan top insert
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Thanks Bob