Bullfrog_eng
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Posts posted by Bullfrog_eng
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Unfortunately I still need one, but thanks for trying 30DodgePanel.
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Thanks Mate.
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I have followed up a few leads, but have been unsuccessful so far. I am looking for a DA window crank handle, as the one I bought (see above) is wrong. I know that I can get a reproduction from Glenn Smith, but I only need one to complete my set and I think his reproduction would look out of place. There is also a complete set of handles and cranks on ebay, but again, I only need one crank, not a whole set. Any help or leads much appreciated.
John
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Fantastic. So you will have a matching pair then (sort of)?
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I wondered if you had forgotten, but I refrained from saying anything derogatory, mainly because I am no better myself and probably for the same reason. I suspect it is not going to get better!!!
Good luck
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Soldered mine when I did them as the inner cable I used was very hard. As I have yet to have the vehicle on the road, I cannot guarantee how long it will last.
What I did is in your old thread, but there may be other solutions.
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Congratulations. I think if I go outside I should be able to see that smile from here.
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Coils can get hot if you are silly enough to leave the ignition on! Don't ask how I know this.
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Similar thinking to what I employed for my DA. I used steel tubing which really did not weigh much. Keep it as short as possible to minimise "leverage". I found the original coil was pretty heavy compared to the modern one, so I recon it should not be a problem.
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Yes, I did get the kit from Old Era Services. I also got the rubber from them. It is not quite the same as original, the ribs are slightly different in width, but I doubt anyone would notice, as they are pretty close. They used to make the running boards as well, but that is now done by Old World Panels in Queensland. They are making a set for me, not really built the same as original, but dimensions are the same, so will wait and see when I get them. A bit dear, I thought, but they will be delivered for free, so that helps a lot (he is coming south for a wedding, I think). Keep my fingers crossed and wait.
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Not sure this will help, but it can't hurt.
My DA running boards were in very poor condition, with only a few pieces of trim left, but from what I have, I believe that they were aluminium (aluminum) and the ribbed pieces outer strip wrapped around to go between the running board and the mudguards (fenders) , as yours seem to do from the photos. There was not enough left of mine to determine if there was a strip on the inside and I was unable to tell from the other vehicle I looked at to tell. The photos I have included are from a very original and unrestored DA belonging to a friend that I have used on many occasions to determine "how things were really done" originally. Not sure they will really be of use to you, but as I said, can't hurt.
I have recently bought (in Australia) a running board "kit", which uses very similar ribbed section for the outer edge, but unribbed pieces for the ends. This in some ways is logical, in that there is less of a gap between the running board and the mudguards (fenders), but does leave a potentially sharper join, than if it were wrapped around. I am sure this will not be a problem for me. The kit also includes an unribbed piece for the inner edge (that as you say, you don't see anyway).
Good luck, John.
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Certainly agree and have received that help from most of those blokes and others. Just hope I can return the favor some time.
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Well, how good is that! Can't thank you enough, Matt. Rubber cut to size, even screw holes punched. Fitted perfectly and was a real easy job thanks to you.
Brilliant.
John
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Personally, I think the coarse grain looks better, but the reality is that you really do not see that much of it anyway, so I doubt it would be really noticeable to most people. Horrie (the Trimmer) commented that years ago, the tonneau material was only available in narrower widths, and had to be joined for some utes (pickups) and it always leaked.
But really, whatever you are happy with is all that matters.
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Looking great Matt.
Just called in to see an old Motor Trimmer (he gets most upset if you call him an upholsterer!). Does fantastic work, currently working on a mid 30s Rolls-Royce in leather. Anyway, posed your question. He believes that you won't get top material in Australia wide enough, BUT suggested Tonneau Cover material, which he checked and comes in 2 Metre widths. He had some on hand and it looked OK to me, although it is fairly fine grained. He thinks there are about three different types.
It should be available from:
Daley's
Unit 1, 6 Leo Street
FAWKNER VIC 3060
Tel: 03 9355 4800
Fax: 03 9355 4850
Email: sales_vic@daleys.com.auThey are a national company, headquartered in Sydney, with branches in all states, but you should be able to have a look at the product at that address.
If all else fails, I can probably get a sample to you and/or order it through this local trimmer.
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Thanks Matt.
Very generous.
John
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Looks great. How wide did you make the rubber, in other words,. how far does it extend below the metal strip?
Looks like you glued as well as screwed?
I have been working on the door and window top rubbers today and got it finished with only a few hiccups, one of which was totally my fault and I have been kicking myself ever since, but I had enough rubber to get away with the mistake (JUST!!). Let's just say it helps if you punch holes in the correct place!!!
I have not got as much rubber on hand for the bottoms as I thought, so will leave it for a week or so until I can get to Adelaide to get some more. Nothing suitable locally. No shortage of things to go on with though.
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I too feel your pain. At the end of the day, the solution that you are confident with is always the right choice.
Good luck.
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My tractor is not pressurised and the additive works great, in fact it is the only type that I have ever used successfully. I last used it in a mate's car that blew out a welsh plug (300 Km from home). We plugged it with a piece of wood then used Silver Seal to seal it. We left the radiator cap not done up tight so that there was no pressure to blow out the piece of wood. It lasted some months that way before he got around to fixing it properly. Silver Seal must be added when engine at running temperature and the engine kept running for some time.
I have always been reluctant to use such additives if I can avoid it, and if I it was in a modern vehicle that I could fix properly, I would and have always done so.
But my previous experience with this stuff means that I will not hesitate to use it in the DA when the time comes.
But each to his own, of course.
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I must preface this comment by stating that I am yet to put water in my DA radiator. However, a couple of years ago I had my radiator dismantled cleaned by a radiator specialist near here. He came recommended as someone familiar with working on old radiators. When I picked it up, he commented on it being pretty good, but also said that because of its age, there may be a weep or two when in use. He recommended NOT to use any standard additive, only distilled water plus soluble oil like we used to do before additives were available. This also meant (and he advised to do this) that you could use "Silver Seal Radiator Sealant" if there were any leaks. As I said, I have not yet done this for the DA, but I have used this product (and also a very similar Gold product which I cannot get here anymore) for a number of years with great success in a number of vehicles, most recently in my old tractor. It is a small file of what looks like silver metal filings that you add to the water. I have never had any luck with the cans of liquid stuff (Bars Leaks) but this stuff works great and in fact is stocked by at least a couple of radiator repairers that I know of, but is sometimes hard to get at other places around here. I now always carry some in my 4X4 and historic vehicle in case of mishaps.
I think it may cause reaction with some additives, that is why only water and soluble oil was recommended.
Google it and have a look.
Good luck
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Similar to Bob's post above for my DA, but the leatherette type coating was sort of intact, but brittle and badly cracked. I coated it with spray contact adhesive and covered it with black vinyl textured upholstery fabric. That held it together and in place looks much like the original. The vinyl followed the contours exactly, but yours appears flat, so that would not be an issue. It may try to follow the holes left by the bits that have fallen ought though, so a bit of filling may be needed.
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Thanks for the tips. I thought I tried that, but failed, somehow. I appreciate you both coming to my rescue as the info in that other post may help others.
Ah! Technology!
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Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions. I have seen rubber on other DAs, but it was so old, shrivelled up and broken as to be useless. Bob, your photo has given me a good idea of the size, so will work from that. This also jogged my memory and I realise that you had posted the photo before, and there is also some info on the upper seals in the thread posted by Manuel in 2015 titled “DA door seals”, but I am not smart enough to be able to provide the actual link here.
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The bottom of the doors of a Budd bodied DA (and probably Victories) I believe should have a door seal. I was intending to use flat rubber (Neoprene) that I have on hand. It would appear to be held to the inside of the door using metal straps secured with self tappers. Is this correct and if so, how far does the rubber protrude below the metal strap?
Was going to go by trial and error, but if someone can point me in the right direction, so much the better.
Thanks, John.
DA Window Crank
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Thanks for the offer, but I think it would be noticeably different without the "wheat" pattern. Your replacements look great, a good match for what you had.
Appreciate the offer though.