Bullfrog_eng
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Posts posted by Bullfrog_eng
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That is interesting, Ron. It's exactly what mine did with the sock, but does not seem to do it without. Time will tell, only took it for a run this morning. I am pretty sure that the radiator I am using never had a baffle, but it is of a different manufacturer, so it may be "after market". I wish that I had noticed the baffle in the other one when I had mine cleaned out, would have done something about it.
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Hey Ron, some time ago I was singing the praises of the "sock" type Radiator filter. I have used them on three other cars and recon they are great, BUT I have just discovered that my DA does not like them. I think the problem is that the one I have is too small (short) and does not protrude into the radiator far enough. This means that the water is forced out pretty well just the end of the sock. It squirts directly at the radiator cap and the radiator overflow pipe and chucks the water out when you crank out a few revs. I have one radiator that has a baffle in line with the radiator inlet pipe, which would stop this problem, but the radiator that I am using does not. I have taken the sock out and this has fixed the problem, and I have driven far enough that I think the sock has caught any gunk that was in the engine for the time being, so not an immediate problem, but will need a longer one if I re-fit one. They used to be available in three sizes, not sure if that is still so.
Anyway, thought it should be something you should be aware of if your Senior radiator is similar.
John
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Bloke at Strathalbyn should be able to help, S.A. Auto Instrument Repairs, Don Eldred. 08 85363095.
Does instrument repairs, speedo cables etc.
Good luck, John
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Just returned from about a 5 mile run in the DA (its longest run yet!!!) and because I did not run out of fuel, assume the vacuum tank working OK. But, my only other experience with vacuum tanks was on an Essex, some years ago, hence my comment on the filter above. It was the only problem I ever had with it in the years I owned the car. When sucking fuel into the vacuum tank, there was a very audible sucking noise, which was kind of reassuring, as you knew the vacuum tank was working. With the DA, I have heard no noise. Should I, what is normal?
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Inlet from fuel tank to top of vacuum tank should contain a filter, I would check that first for blockage or gunk (if you have not already done so) as it is the easiest!
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Mine is 6 inch diameter.
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Likewise all the comments above. Would like to catch up with you eastern staters in person some time, but that has not worked out in the last couple of years. At least we can see what one another is doing via this forum. Same for the overseas (from me!!) blokes, not likely to visit any time soon, but great to see what you are up to. Of course the input from all when problems arise is invaluable.
Have a great Christmas and best wishes for the new year to all.
John
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Yep, that fixed it.
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Hold everything!!
After 3/4 hour on phone to another dodgey Dodge owner, I have come to the realisation that I an missing spring 6. I feel confident that will allow me to get the adjustments right. Will see in the morning.
Thanks anyway.
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Have finally got the DA “near enough” to finished, registered for the road and rearing to go. Well almost.
Have had a few issues recently with my dear old Mum, aged care, selling her house and all that stuff, so finding time to finish off the last few little jobs on the DA was nearly impossible. Took me a week just to screw the registration plates on!!!
So I was determined to go for a small drive this morning.
Well, I did not get far and could smell the handbrake dragging, so back home to check it out.
I am a bit confused. I seemed to have no clearance adjacent to the “Brake band anchor point” (6 below). I backed off the “anchor screw” (4) but cannot get the 1/16 inch clearance. What pulls the band away from the drum? While I now have some clearance, it is not enough in my opinion and while I can force it away, it does not want to just sit there.
Is there some other adjustment that I have not yet figured out? When the description refers to the “adjusting screw” (10), how do you adjust this, as opposed to the “adjusting nut” (11)?
I have to admit that it is not that clear to me from the description below.
Any help appreciated.
John
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They look a bit wobbly, like they have been through an earthquake.
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Bloody beautiful
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I have a number of those steel inserts left over and they seem to vary a bit. However they are mostly the same size as yours. I do have some that are a bit smaller, 3/8 inch top, 5/8 inch bottom, all same width (5/8 inch). All use 3/16 inch metal thread screws. The one in the photos above are the smaller version, you will notice that they are not a snug fit in the rubber. I found it did not matter which I used, as even if I used the smaller ones, they hold the bumpers fine, but the larger ones are preferable as they are a bit firmer when you push the bumpers into the door jambs. Can't remember why I used some of both, probably grabbed the first ones I could see.
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OK, let's see if this makes sense.
As you know, the rubber does funny things over the years, so I figured that the only way I was going to get accurate measurements (sort of!!) was to measure one of the new ones, so I took one out. I think it will do what you want. If I have not been clear enough, or you want other info, please let me know. Good luck.
John
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Richard, the door bumpers look the same as the ones I used on the DA. It is a while ago, but I used ones from Metro Moulded Parts Part number DB 37. They came with no metal in place but were moulded to take the tapered edge metal pieces that I was able to remove from my old ones. Width is 1 1/4 but height is only about 7/8 inch, these taken from my old sample, so MAY have shrunk a bit. They do have others very similar, not sure of measurements. On their site, if you search for db it will bring up a number of them some similar, does not show measurements though, so might have to contact them if interested.
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Makes me feel soooo much better to know that others make these silly problems for themselves as well as me!!!
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Richard, John may have already sent you this info, but I think what you are looking for is
Did this for my DA and works well so far, but I have only driven a few hundred yards!!
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What bad luck, I'm at a loss to know what to say. Feel your pain, best wishes.
John
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Don't pretend to know much about 4 cyl Dodges, but over the years have found a partially blocked main jet can show those symptoms. Revs OK on no load but does not get enough fuel under load, so backfires, etc. Just a thought.
John
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Ron, the last one I bought from my local Autopro shop. If you can't get one local let me know and I will send one over.
John
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In case someone is not sure what I mean, here is an example of the "sock" type.
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I have always added a "sock" to the top radiator hose when rebuilding an engine or cooling system to catch any of the bits of rust and gunk that seem to remain regardless of how well I think I have cleaned everything. I would hate to have anything clog up a nice clean radiator. There are a number of filters available as well, but I prefer the "sock" type that are made for the job because they are almost unnoticable in an old cooling system. The filter type look too modern for me (like phillip head screws!! )
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Will be really interested how you get on. I am still probably a couple of weeks away from putting this into practice for myself. I have been giving it a lot of thought, but it is the doing that counts.
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Just had a look at my 1936 DeSoto (Richards body) out of interest and the large end of the spring presses against the door card and does not pass through it, so only a small hole needed. What does all this mean? Maybe depends on the flexibility of the door card you are using. I think I would prefer to press on the door card if you can get away with it.
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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Likewise, sorry to hear Ian. I know where you are comming from, buried my Mum fortnight ago. Life (death?) gets in the way of our cars sometimes. Still in my situation, Mum is in a better place.
John