ramair

I need a original style oil filter bracket and filter head so that I can convert to Bobs oil filter kit, see picture below

I am looking for a usable original style oil filter and bracketfor my 1928 master coupe, someone updated with I believe a tractor oil filter and bracket. I checked with Bobs and they have a complete for 29, but for 28 I would have to reuse the top part of my original filter and bracket that I do not have, has anyone else had this problem? I will post in wanted/ for sale also

Are there different thickness avaliable? The manual says that the bodies use between 5/32 and 9/32, not to worry because it can be compensated by adjusting garnish mouldings ? I will measure my windshield thickness today. I read in the service manual about windshield removal, could someone tell me the procedure as the manual is brief. Nice to know about how hard it is to remove crank and if the channels are reusable and if not we're is the best place to get them

Thank you, I have sent him a email and hopefully he has the pattern. Did the glass that you purchased from him have a noticeable logo as many of the modern cars have some etchings? Did you replace all of the glass and if you did was it tempered or laminate on the balance of Windows? Would like to hear from anyone that has changed windshield with the Fisher ventilation system as my car has the track that allows windshield to raise and lower.

My new purchase is a really nice 1928 Buick master 54C country club coupe with roll up windshield. I believe the windshield is original and I do not see any evidence that the glass is safety glass. I was wondering if anyone knows of a glass shop that would have the pattern for my car. I would rather have the glass in hand before I take apart.

Marrscars, Glad that your going to go forward with project. A little history on mine, I bought it from a neighbor when I was 12 years old for $30.00 and that was 42 years ago. it was only missing the front axel, but the engine had little compression. When I was 18 years old I took the engine apart and found out that it had been bored out before and their was not enough cylinder wall left. The machine shop told me we could sleeve the engine or find another. After a couple of years I found a guy on the East coast that was turning his 36 GMC into a hotrod so I bought his engine and spent a small fortune on shipping. The good news is the engine had never been rebuilt, the bad news is the engine had been at the machine shop for 2 1/2 decades waiting to be rebuilt. The shop called one day last year and told me to pick up the engine was I excited. Then they said they were shutting down the business and that they never got around to it! I took my truck to load it up and then came the surprise, The engine was fully machined just not assembled. The owners of the shop had done the work years ago and forgot that they did! This years project is to assemble engine. To answer some of your concerns the proper bed length is 87 1/2 inches , the top of the bed angles out at about 45 degrees and then it curls under and looks like a 1 1/2 inch diameter tube. I believe that these bed panels are reproduced because it is the same as Chevrolet just a different length. As far as your concern about cost, we all know that these projects end up having twists and turns that equal money. We also are over twenty-one so we also know that we can not sell these project and get our money out of them! I can not say for certain what this project will cost, a lot will depend on condition, how much is missing, your skill and abilities, your expectation on the fit and finish and if you want to show it for trophies. However much can be bought as reproduction, this pickup has very little chrome, it has very little wood in the cab, upholstery and glass. So what you are dealing with is power train, chassis and condition of sheet metal (rust & dents) I will throw a number range out there of $10,000 to $50,000. The low end of the range would be to get the truck to run with a take out engine and a "Broom paint job" my high number would be a rebuilt chassis and a very nice paint job. Yes you can spend more if you want it perfect , but remember that these were built as trucks and they were never perfect when new. I would love to help keep your project alive and in so doing it might help me keep focused on mine. You should PM me with your contact info that way you will get answers quicker as I only get around to this site every few weeks. A few more facts my truck still has the factory paint which is Omaha Orange with black fenders. The interior sheet metal was painted with a brown wrinkle paint. The Chevrolets were black inside. My truck resides with me in Central California, Michael

Marrscars, I have a 1936 GMC T-14 1/2 ton pickup I have owned it for 34 years and have worked on and off of it for years. You have many great questions and I will try to answer some of them. Providing that your dads truck is a pickup it could be a model T-14 , T-15 or T-16 this is kind of like the modern numbering system that GMC uses today 1500,2500 or 3500 from lighter to heavy. Your dads truck is probably the rarest of all GMC pickups. You could easily say that their are fewer than 10 of these pickups in decent shape. I can not remember the exact number but I think they made about 4,000 units, which is nothing compared to Chevrolet of 36. There are several reasons for low production , GMC dealers sold mostly heavy trucks their dealerships were on the industrial side of town and most customers were farmers and commercial accounts that happened to need a smaller companion truck. Chevrolet dealers had much more traffic and were able to move more pickups. The other factor was that GM was in the middle of a major redesign on all cars and there was a trickle down effect on pickups. The beginning of 1936 only Chevrolet had a pickup which was a carryover model. Some collectors call it a 3 hinge cab or a tall cab essentially it had a lot of wood timber in the cab with a fabric top these trucks had mechanical brakes. GMC decided to start their light duty pickup line in 1936 but decided to wait until all the Chevrolet tooling was in place for the mid year change over so they got a late start. As far as restoration goes your dad has the best of all worlds, the truck is really rare and distinctive and you can utilize a lot of reproduction parts from 36 Chevy. The major difference is the engine is a Oldsmobile 6 cylinder out of 1935 or 36. If you look back on old threads you will find a guy who has a complete 36 Oldsmobile flat head that came out of a running car that he wants to sell! Another difference is GMC had a 7' bed and Chevy had a 6 or 8' bed. The front mount spare tire is on opposite fenders. The bumper has a downward curve on the GMC. The grille and hoodsides are different. The instrument panel is the same as Chevy, but the dial faces are brown on the GMC and black for Chevy. There may be other differences but can not think of them now. So now my thoughts If it was my truck I would put it back together . Go to Jim Carter online truck catalog and you will see plenty of parts for sale that will work. When it comes to used parts you will be able to use lots of parts from 36,37 & 38 Chevy you can also use GMC pickup and even some cab parts from 1 1/2 ton and larger trucks up to 1938. I might even have a dash board that will work for you. EBAY regularly has a vender that specializes in rebuilt gauge and will put in the brown dial faces for you. As far as turning it into a hotrod you probably are not going to get alot of sympathy or advice from most of the guys (myself included)! I can tell you that these trucks are narrow and there is no way that you can bolt this body on any full size pickup chassis especially a diesel. I know that their is a magazine called classic trucks (oxymoron) that is a pickup hotrod do it yourselfer and they talk about using S-10 or Dodge Dakota or ordering a complete running gear from one of their venders $$$$$$. I guess it just depends on what interests your dad. If you got it up and running the original route he would have a decent driving truck with hydraulic brakes with its only limitation is the rear axel ratio so 45 mph is as fast as you could expect to drive it, but he could rebuild the chassis himself, buy a good running engine and get out and drive it and fix the rest on the go. You can PM me if you would like, Michael

Do you have steel rims that go on the wood wheels? I am looking for a 27" baker that fits on Buick the tire size for that rim is 36 x 4 1/2, Thank you, Michael

I would suspect you have one wheel with a different offset. Try this , get a tape measure and check both sides of car's wheel fender clearance. Then trade wheels and measure , Good Luck, Michael

I have a 1936 1/2 ton GMC that has a Oldsmobile flathead 213 Ci. as factory issue. Over the last 35 years I almost have the engine back together ( some day I will start a thread asking who has the longest running restoration project on earth, I don't think I will hold the record) anyway I am ready to put new cam bearings in and noticed that they are semi-finished, my question did someone use to make finished bearings or have they always used these and then line bored? I would call the place that I bought these but on the shipping box the cancelled postal stamp says dec. 1977. My local machine shop just shakes their head when I asked about line boring the cam bearings, Thanks in advance, Michael

I have a 1916 Buick and I can tell you that all the advice you have been given is right on. You need to contact Dean and get on his newsletter you can post needs and ask for help. You will not find a group of people anywhere as good as the pre-war buick people. I have been the recipient of many boxes of parts, some of which were made of the rare UNOBTAINIUM. If you would like contact me either on this post or pm me and I will see if I can get you the right info to get started, Michael

I was looking over the pic's of the engine compartment and I can tell you that the air cleaner canister on this car is off of a force-air induction W-34 455. I have owned 2 68 toronado's with this option. According to the Toronado Owners Association there was a 112 toronado's made with this engine. I have one of these great cars left and I can tell you that 400 hp and nearly 500 pounds of torque is something else in a 5000 pound car, let alone a Cutlass? For those that want to know the main difference in the engine is the .472 lift cam, special distributor advance curve wieghts and springs, no change in carburation. 0 to 60 in 7.5 seconds top end 135 mph if you don't believe me look in a 1968 Road & Track. You know it took almost 40 years for technology advanced production cars to the point that alot of them can out accelerate my 44 year old car. But it still startles the hell out of those drivers of techno-cars when those 15 inch Firestones break free in the front (wieght over wheels @ applied torque = SOUND !!! )

1970 toronado steering wheel it is a tilt and telescopic wheel with the world famous rim blow rubber strip. Would love to buy one in better shape than mine and it does not even need to be a match to my interior color of gold, thank you, Michael

Hi, I have a 1916 Buick model 55 seven passenger touring . Approx 7' high by 16' long, 6' wide with 130 " wheelbase. The car is kept in a enclosed barn. I like to store it with the top up. However I am sick of cleaning it everytime I take it out. Can you help? Michael

I started on a 1936 gmc pickup 40 years ago ( come to think of it we could start a new thread just to see who has procrastinated the longest) any way I bought a cab wood kit from Fiberglass and Wood Company in Georgia in 1984 thought it was a lot of money but looks like a good deal now. The only trouble is that their is no real directions on how to install. I am worried about door alaignment. The cab sheetmetalis in good shape but there is not enough wood left to really show me what to do. 40 years ago the termites where holding hands but not no more. Does anyone have a idea of were to start on wood installation on a low cab GM pickup, thank you, Michael

Hi, Just wondering how the 1936 is doing? Did you get all your questions answered? If not send me a PM and I will share some new found info, Michael

I have a 1916 Buick that shifts great unless the transmission gets hot. I bought the thick oil from Restoration Supply (Lubriplate) when I changed the old oil it was fairly clean with no metal in it. If I stay local (less than 20 miles of driving the car shifts well both up and down, double clutch of course! However 3 weeks ago I took it on a 75 mile round trip on a hot day. It was 91 degrees out California you know, I started having trouble no mater what I did I could not match the engine speed to the trans shaft without all kinds of embarrasing noise. When I got home I pulled the check plug and the oil was foaming with air bubbles in it and boy was it hot. I suspect that the hot oil was keeping the trans shaft spinning to fast. Another fact is that I can not keep the trans full to the top plug because it leaks out the top shaft while parked so if I keep the trans oil level down 2 inches it does not leak. Any ideas would help, Thank you, Michael

Hi, was wondering about model or serial numbers on block. I have a 1936 GMC pickup that came from the factory with a 36 olds engine. The original engine is badly worn and I have been waiting for my local machine shop for a rebuild (long long time) Might be interested in this if it is identical to my engine, Thank you, Michael

Hi, Looking to help out a Relative on his very original 68 thunderbird. His original plastic windshield washer reservoir crumbled with age. He found a replacement from one of the Bird repo places and says it is not anywhere near close looking. He was told that no one makes it because it is a one year only. Can anyone help me on this? I am a Oldsmobile/Buick guy and know very little about these nice cars. Thank you, Michael

Hi, Would like contact info on spring guy. I am here in California and have a 16 Buick with missmatched springs. If I can find a good shop then I only have to figuire out which front spring is the proper one. One side has 1 extra leaf and and their are some slight differences in the way they look, Thank you, Michael

Pepcak, I also have a large Buick water distribution tube that is pretty banged up. It does not leak I have called around to see if I can get someone to take dents out and plate it back to Nickle. Another option would be a replacement similar to the one you had made. Even though most of the other Buicks that use my model water pipe have dents I am not sure how many would order because their just is not many engines left.. This pipe would only fit the 1914-15-16 331 cubic inch 55 seies car. Since it is similar in length and diameter to the one made I have 3 questions, what is the material that it is made of? will it need to be plated to look original ? and rough pricing? Michael

Looks nice, what is the max height avaliable? I have a tall car, thank you, Michael

I guess this company was way ahead on marketing, not only did they make Klaxon, Klaxonet & Klaxet. By having all these names maybe it allowed them to sell to car companies that wanted an exclusive accesory anyway under each of these names they had big or small, steel or brass, 5 volt, 6 volt , 12 volt & 24 volt. I have been told that many of the small ones were on early motorcycles. I believe that General Motors bought them in 1918

Howard, This horns manufactrers is the same as mine and tag is similar except it says Klaxet instead of Klaxon. The motor is shorter on mine and the megaphone part on mine is 9 inches long, Thank you for looking for me, Michael

Chuick, Thank you for looking for me. The horn that I need would be made of steel and the motor should be in line instead of underneth. That horn you found is sure neat , but I think it would not pass for OEM. Thank you again, Michael