ramair

Dudley, Is your truck a T-14 ? I have a original 1/2 ton T-14 and I have been trying to keep track of the ones that remain. Michael

Larry, Not sure what you mean by raised spacer inside? However when I looked at your ad I suspect that the rims I am looking for are bigger in circumferance I think that the size of my tires 36 by 4 1/2 means that it is mounted on a 27 inch wheel, Michael

Web38, Thank you for the offer I live on the left coast so you are a little far for me to travel. I think my only chance to get this usable again without spending alot of money is to find someone that has some left over top material that would match my top and then section in the back curtain. Thank you, Michael

David, thank you for info. I took another look this morning and it looks like 3 inches is all that has released on the left. I was thinking of pulling it back and finding some of those tacks and tacking either side. Would it be helpfull to pre drill tack hole ? The other option I was thinking about was to take some welting or piping (do not know the proper term) and stapleing along that lower edge. There is a trim strip there that is about a inch below the lower edge of the back curtain. There are 3 fastener's that twist and lock down the boot and these are centered on this trim strip. Thank you again, Michael

Larry, my Buick D-55 has a dual spare tire carrier and when I bought the car it had 4 wheels on the ground and 2 spare tires, only one has a rim. This car has Firestone non-skids that were put on in the seventies they have hardly any wear on them and the car was stored indoors, but I worry that I might get a flat so I thought it best to get another baker rim. I might just run a ad to see if some museum is looking for some great Non-skids for a display maybe trade them for some new tires? If I find more than one Baker I will contact you with info. Thank you, Michael

Hi, I am looking for a spare rim for my 1916 Buick D-55. Also would like to know if anyone makes a big headed rim bolt with fine threads to match the baker? I think they are 1/2 by 3 1/4 20 threads per inch. thank you, Michael

Hi Trimacar, I will try and take photo's of the top and post, but probably can not get to it for a few days. You have described my top. it has 2 straps that go forward but do not go down to body with no apparent way to tighten. The straps seem loose when top is stretched on to windshield post. The back material is 2 layers thick. I see that the restoration shop picked the worst fastener which must shoot out of a brad gun. They seem to have little or no heads on them. They nailed very close to the edge of the top and have the nails about 6 inches apart. It has pulled loose on the left side about 10 inches. The material on this car looks great and it was stored properly. I would like to get a little life out of it. could I use big headed tack and if so how far apart? Would a welting with more nails work better? can I just change the back panel on top? Is there a way to adjust the straps? I understand that you have not seen top and these are just general question? Thank you and the top you did for Unimogjohn looks great, Michael

Hi guys, Does anyone know how the back panel of the "one man top" is suppose to hook to the back of car? My car had a top installed by the previous owner back in the 70's. It was then taken off the car 10 years ago and stored. I had the top cleaned and re-installed at a restoration facility. I now have the car and the top does not seem right. There are 2 tension? straps that go forward from the back bow to the windshield but nothing going down to the back of the body. The restoration shop just tacked the bottom of the back panel to the wood right above a strip of covered welting that hids the seam between the seat leather and the sheet metal. The material is pulling loose from the tension. the nails they used hardly had a head on them. The shop told me that the top was pulling apart because it is old and rotted, I looked at the top and it looks pretty solid to me. Any help would be appreciated, Michael

Thank you Mark for a great idea maybe I can make the old top mate to the new spiral float. I am on a scavenger hunt looking for a similar gas gauge that fit in the fuel tank of a international Farmall super C tractor that we own. I took that part off years ago and stored it away in my usual manor (Black Hole) If I can find it it will give me a better idea of what will work. Dean Tryon had heard of someone adapting a early Chevrolet gauge. Does anyone know of what years Chevrolet used that style?, Michael

Hi Guys, I would like to know if anyone has a replacement mechanism for the in the tank type gauge on a D-55 touring? I have the top, glass,dial face and indicator. Everything else has gone away. I know it is not in the tank because that was cleaned and sealed and the company that did it checked for it. If no parts are avaliable would like to know if there might be some interchangeability, Thank you

I will report in when the car has been looked at. Originaly the owner was going to show us the car with out a clean up. The car has not run for about a year. While I was looking to find someone to look at the car the owner decided to pull it out clean it up and go thru the carb,tank and vacumn tank. So he wanted a few more days before the inspection. All and all I think we will have a better idea of what it needs to become a good tour car. Thank you all, Michael

Thank you all for your responses. This is truely a great hobby when one needs help or advice old car people always come through . I have a gentlemen set to go look at the car for me that has restored early Buicks. Kevin and Bill thank you for answering my call for help. I appreciate you both for mentioning that your area of expertiece is not in early cars. Truith be told I have next to no experience so it was hard for me to even know what to have checked or looked close at on a early car. I looked at a early car a while back and I thought the car was sound. A friend of mine spotted problem with the wood and told me " The termites are holding hands". Thank you all again, Michael

Hi, I need someone in central Ohio that can look at a 1916 Buick for me. I live 2600 miles away from this car. I believe it to be a decent car being sold by a decent fellow collector, but as I always say about my kids "Trust, but Verify". I can pay for fuel and compensate you for your time. Would love to find someone that knows this era of Buicks, especially wood body frame, wheels and top bows. I have to make a decision by next weekend, Thank you, Michael