michaelod

I just checked my 60 series. They are welded in, not bolted. Show no signs of ever having been bolted and I believe them to be original, but I could be wrong. Were the 40 series constructed differently? Michael

Dwight, I was actually wondering the same thing, although it doesn't seem very likely due to the fact that both the engine block and transmission are different beginning in 1931. Perhaps someone has real knowledge of this and can confirm it one way or another. Michael O'Docharty

Jack, Don't know if this will help but it might. Search this forum for a message posted 4 weeks ago entitled "lever shock leak cure?". There are some detailed instruction on shock rebuilding in that article that might be applicable to your situation. Thanks, Michael

Thanks to all those who responded with assistance. I removed the oil pan in preparation to start this car which I know has not been started in some years. Based on some of the horror stories I've heard I had anticipated discovery of a substantial amount of sludge in the bottom, but much to my delight there was almost nothing there at all. No bits of metal or other foreign objescts either. Bottom of the engine appeared very clean. Looks as if the previous owner(s) had actually changed the oil on a fairly regular basis. Hopefully when I get it running it will be as good as what I am seeing thus far. Regards, Michael O'Docharty

Got it off ! At least it is loose anyway. Looks like I will have to remove the front sway bar (or whatever they called that in 1930) to get it out but that will be a piece of cake compared to removing the oil pan. As I suspected it was glued on with some super adhesive that fought me every inch of the way on both sides of the pan. Took my time and removed it carefully to avoid damaging the mating surfaces, although it took me all day to do it. Time for a cold one... Michael O'Docharty

Right, I found that panel earlier. This was what I was referring to in my previous message, so I've got that one taken care of. Do you happen to remember if there is anything attached to the timing chain cover at the front? Doesn't appear to be but I just wanted to make sure before I result to more serious measures. At this point I am thinking that someone has coated both sides of the pan gasket with some serious adhesive, essentially gluing the pan to the crankcase. Thanks, Michael O'Docharty

Well I removed an access panel near the flywheel and found 2 more bolts at the rear of the oil pan. Removed those and thought I was going to be in business, but no luck. This thing still feels like it is attached with concrete. Cannot see any place in the front where it would be attached but perhaps I missed something up there. Any one actually remove the pan from a 60 series before? Would the smaller engine have the same setup as the larger? Thanks, Michael O'Docharty

I am having some difficulty removing the oil pan from my 30-68. Engine is in the car. I have removed 24 bolts (12 on each side) from the pan and do not see any remaining. Beat on the pan with a rubber hammer in an attempt to loosen it up with no luck. I don't see any remaining fasteners on it and am in a bit of a quandary as to how it comes off. Am I missing something here? Thanks, Michael

Hello, Have you got a window regulator for the passenger side? Thanks, Michael

papaw, Not having a 40 Coupe to look at, I am wondering if that seal listed has nothing to do with sealing the trunk itself but is in fact for somthing attached to the trunk such as an emblem, handle, etc. Just a thought. Michael O'Docharty Raleigh, NC 1930 Buick Model 68

Where is the rust coming from? Does your gas tank require attention? Washing it may not be sufficient to remove the rust problem. I may need to be lined with a sealer. Michael

On my 30-68 the frame number is a metal tag located on the passenger side of the car, near the front and behind the wheel. If you look at the frame area around the front brake drum you should see it. Thanks, Michael

Reid, Thank you for describing how these armrests work and posting some photos of the back side. This is exactly the kind of information that I was looking for. Seems like it will be fairly easy to fabricate some mounts and apply them to the armrest forms that Lebaron Bonney has in stock for chevys, or just make my own if they are not close enough. While I have not done an automobile interior before, I have reupholstered about a zillion pieces of Victorian furniture, and am certain that I will have no real difficulty translating those skills to my 30 Buick. In reality upholstery is still a couple of years of as I still have mechanical and paint work to do first. Michael O'Docharty

I believe LeBaron Bonney Company - Antique Auto Upholstery has them. I know I can get a set for my 1930 Model 68, but I have no idea what they look like. Thanks, Michael

Dwight, Thanks for the pictures of the armrests and the heads up on the Chevy armrest form. There must be some sort of metal mounts for the front and rear of the armrests that one needs to make the connection with the metal brackets in the car. Hopefully someone will be able to post a picture of what those look like as there is a probability that I may need to fabricate something due to the fact that mine are gone. It would be even better to locate some originals, but locating parts for this car thus far has been challenging at best. My interior was totally stripped with the exception of some worn out replacement seat covers when I bought the car although most of the metal garnish mouldings had been saved by a previous owner. Apparently that person had intended to re-do the interior, but after ripping everything out gave up on the job. Nothing was saved for patterns. The armrests, handles, window cranks, light covers, and other miscellaneous pieces were lost as the car passed through several short term owners before I bought it. Michael

Hello everyone, A recent question from Dwight about the construction of the rear window area of his car brought to mind an additional question I have in that same general area. I have a 1930 Buick model 68 5-window coupe that is missing much of its interior. Although I believe I have most of the garnish mouldings around the windows, I am missing the armrests in the rear seat and don't really know what they look like. From what I can gather there is an attachment point between the body and edge of the seat cushion and shown in picture #1. Picture #2 shows what I think is the forward attachment point at what appears in the photo as a triangular metal bracket with a dogleg. Could someone post a photo of the actual armrest itself from the backside or minus upholstery so I can get an idea of what the part itself looks like and what I am missing. Thanks for all your assistance, Michael

Stuart, Thank you for the info related to the rear window. I did in fact find a small piece of curved broken wood in my car that matches your description and seems to be a good fit along the curve of the corner of the window, so I believe I understand what you are referring to. That wood does not seem very substantial, so I would agree that it is probably not up to the task of protecting the rear window from water seepage over time. Thanks again, Michael O'Docharty Raleigh NC

Dwight, I basically have the same question as you. Mine is incomplete in my 30-68 as well. I think the upholstery comes right up to the edge of the window seal but am not sure about this. Perhaps someone with a sedan or coupe could fill us in with the correct information. I am posting a photo of what I currently have in my car. Thanks, Michael

Thank you for that description on how part #12 works. I discovered that they were part of that sidemount anti-theft system earlier, but I did not know how they actually worked. This helps fill in some of the blanks. Michael

To upload a picture: 1) Reply to the message. 2) Click on 'Go Advanced' 3) On the to row of your reply box you will see a paper clip. Click on it. 4) The 'Manage Attachments' window will appear. 5) Click on the 'Browse' button for that window. 6) A browse dialog will appear. Browse to the location of the file on your machine. 7) Enter the filename and click on 'Open' 8) From the 'Manage Attachments' window click on 'Upload'. 9) Close the 'Manage Attachments' window. 10) Submit your reply when the message text is complete. That is about it... Michael O'Docharty

Still looking for a<link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CMichael%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C04%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} span.EmailStyle15 {mso-style-type:personal; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-ansi-font-size:10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt; font-family:Arial; mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; mso-hansi-font-family:Arial; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial; color:windowtext;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--> water outlet manifold for a 1930 Buick 50 or 60 series, 331 CI, 6 cylinder motor . My Buick is dead in the water until one can be located. Mine is completely rusted out on the front end. I would imagine this was the fate of many of these tubes. Any leads would be greatly appreciated. Attaching a couple of pictures for reference. Thanks, Michael

Anytime you have raw fuel exiting out the carb, you have a real potential for fire. I think that would be my first concern. Michael

Yes, I noticed that car on eBay this morning. The whole listing gave one the impression that something fishy was going on... Michael

I would think that running electronic devices at lower voltages would be harmless to the device; they would either work or they don't. The opposite of course is not the case and would certainly want to be avoided. Michael

Hello, I am looking for one for a 1930 Buick Model 68 5-window-coupe, Thanks, Michael