michaelod

Thanks for all the information on these handles. I am considering selling the originals on eBay, fully disclosing their condition of course, and get what I can for them. While I prefer originals, and in the event I was able to get them free without destroying them, I can see where they might get left for an extended period of time in a fixed position, thus repeating the problem. Perhaps the SS reproductions would be a wise choice at this point. At least the finish will match on everything.

Hello All, I have several interior window crank handles for my 30-68 with the screw-on type of escutcheons that are threaded on the end which attaches to the window regulator. These have been successfully removed from the car but their escutcheons are frozen to the handle itself. The two parts will not rotate independently of one another. Is there any good technique to free up these pot metal parts without destroying the handle? Thanks,

The term welting is also used to describe the interior trim that is used to cover upholstery seams/edges and give a finished look. Same concept in that a cord is wrapped in fabric or vinyl prior to its application. Thanks,

Neil, If you can post some pictures of the areas you have questions about, I may be able to post some corresponding pictures of the original woodwork in those areas. Although my car is a 30-68, perhaps the woodwork is similar enough that you can get the information you are looking for. Mine currently has no interior in it at all and the woodwork is all exposed, original and in good shape. Thanks,

Well Fred disassembly will not be a problem as the heat control valve is severely broken and the heat tube entirely missing in my car. I suspect that the valve was frozen up at some time in the past and was destroyed when a previous owner attempted to free it up. The picture shown above is not my car and just used to illustrate the part I am missing. In any case I have purchased a new heat control valve from Bob's Automobilia and it looks to be a very well made reproduction in my opinion. The heat tube will need to be made here locally. You mentioned a packing collar and rope packing in your previous message. I notice there is a small sleeve pressed into the end of the new heat control valve where the heat tube attaches. Is this what you are referring to? Thanks,

Many thanks to both Mark and Fred for their help with my questions. Once I get the car running (which should be very soon) I think I will take it over to a muffler shop here in Raleigh that has a mandrel bender. Should be a simple job for them.

Hello All, I am in need of a exhaust heat valve to carburetor heat tube for a 1930 Model 68 with the Master series engine. In the event I am unable to locate one, could someone tell me the correct outside diameter and is the pipe sleeved on the ends? From the picture I have attached it appears that the tube has a slight bend in it; is this correct? I don't know if there is any difference in this part between the Master and Standard series engines. Thanks for your assistance,

Neil, Bob's Automobilia has got what you need. Bob's Automobilia Thanks,

Jules, You mentioned in your previous post that the handle you got from eBay was to small for your 31-90 series. In which dimension was it to small? Would that be in the length or diameter of the shaft? The reason I ask is that my 30-68 is the large series car and is comparable to your 31-90; the 60 series from 1930 actually shares many body parts with the 90 series from 1931. Thanks,

Project car (not mine) for sale on eBay: Other Makes:eBay Motors (item 270497424794 end time Dec-09-09 16:24:27 PST)

Dwight, I don't know if this is any help to you but here is a picture of a 1930 apron (not mine) removed the car.

Took my test in a 1964 VW Karmann Ghia convertible in March of 1969 in Anchorage Alaska. The parallel parking test was a breeze in that car. The instructor passed me on the first try although she said I had a lead foot. Probably got that from my father whose other car was a highly modifed VW Bug with a blown hemi running nitromethane on the street! It was basically a fuel altered that he would fire up from time to time a drive around the neighborhood for short distances; far from street legal but one could get away with anything in Alaska at that time. My first car was a 1969 Chevelle SS 396, 4 speed manual. that I bought nearly new for just under $2K. Every teenager needs a big block Chevy as their first ride. I don't believe I could even afford the same car at today's prices.

It is interesting that so many of these locking handles are missing the lock cylinder. My 30-68 is missing the cylinder for both the door and trunk handles. Perhaps once the key went missing it was just cheaper to remove the cylinder altogether than have a new key made for it. I'm not really sure what the locksmith situation was like in 1930. Michael

Yes, I had the same confusion as Dwight. In my car someone has placed the keyed lock handle on the drivers side and the one without a key on the passenger side making it impossible to lock the car. Actually mine is completely missing the locking cylinder in the one with the keyed lock but that is a different issue. Bobs has keyed locks listed for the 1929 and 1931 Buick's, but for some reason the 1930 is skipped. Wile not completely original, I will be looking for locking handles on both sides, although this would imply carrying around an additional key. So totaling things up that would mean 4 separate keys for the car; an ignition key, 2 keys for the doors and another for the trunk. Thanks, Michael O'Docharty 1930 Buick Model 68

Hello, Where are you located? Thanks, Michael

Paul, I would be very pleased to be able to purchase them from you. I am leaving you a private message here on the forum as well as sending an email. Thanks, Michael O'Docharty

Thanks for that description Fred. The entire area from the transmission back was saturated in a heavy layer of grease/oil/crud so it appears something back there is leaking. I am cleaning up the area pretty well and once I get this thing running I will have a better chance of determining what is leaking. Michael

Hello all, I am currently preparing to get my 1930 Model 68 running after sitting for about 4 years and notice that I have a leather boot/gasket attached by wire on the end of the torque tube that has rotted out. Could someone tell me what the purpose of this boot is? The area it encompasses appears to be sealed so I am trying to figure out what this does. I believe I could make a new one out of neoprene but I am still curious what this thing does. Thanks, Michael O'Docharty

Thanks for the tip Jules. Unfortunately they don't have what I need. Michael O'Docharty

Still looking. Thanks, Michael

Still looking. Thanks, Michael

Very lucky indeed, especially in the state of North Carolina. We have some new draconian laws with respect to obtaining a title for an antique vehicle here. All antique vehicles only (modern used cars are exempt from this) must be inspected by the theft division. In my case my car has an out of state title issued against the engine number and if that engine were not the original it would be very difficult to obtain a clear NC title.. In addition they will not issue a title to a non-operational vehicle, so project cars cannot be titled. They will issue a registration as a non-operational vehicle and give you a 1 year period to get the car running. If you are unable to get the car running and pass the theft inspection within that period you are SOL and will not be issued a title for your car. My car was last started about 4 years ago and at the present time my car is not running, thus I have not been able to get it inspected yet. I do however expect to have it running in the next 3 or 4 weeks. Michael O'Docharty

Dwight, There may be some chance these folks will have what you need: Vintage Auto Parts, Inc. Thanks, Michael O'Docharty

Hello Dave, As you seem to be the person to see, I was hoping you could ID my 1930 Buick Model 68 for me. The numbers are as follows: Job #30122 Body #5976 Frame #2422657 Engine #2581434 Thanks for all your effort, Michael O'Docharty Raleigh, NC

For further reference here is some additional information about the 60 Series front sidemount fenders. The measurments are as follows: 1) Picture 1930_Buick_60series_Fender-1.jpg has a tape stretched along the length beginning in the front center at the spear shaped area to the center of rear of the fender at the running board and measures 74 inches. 2) Picture 1930_Buick_60series_Fender-2.jpg has a tape stretched across the width of the fender at the running board and measures just over 12 inches. 3) Picture 1930_Buick_60series_Fender-3.jpg has a tape stretched across the width of the well opening and measures 7.25 inches. As a side note you can see the poorly done rust repair at the bottom of the wheel well. Thanks, Michael