rayclay

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About rayclay

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    Retired high school art teacher. My '36 is my first pre war vehicle.

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  1. Jim: Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated! I'm going to give it a shot Saturday morning.
  2. I'm about to install a new 6 blade fan. And hoping to avoid removing the whole grill/radiator to gain access. What's the minimum amount of disassembly necessary to remove the fan bolts?
  3. Larry: My stock '36 model 41 has precisely the same symptoms. After being driven, in weather warm or cold, residual manifold heat caused the inferior modern fuel to swell, flooding my Stromberg carb. My solution was to hold the pedal down while pressing the starter button. This seems to work best with most flooded engines. I also installed an electronic fuel pump near the gas tank wired to a toggle switch hidden under my dash(I didn't want to spoil the stock appearance). I've used this when starting up my Buick after 'hibernating' for a few weeks, immediately turning the electronic pump off after starting. Maybe this would help overcome a vapor lock issue too? Surely someone in the pre-war group could confirm/deny this. Good luck, Ray
  4. Robert: As per your question, yes. Traveling at 45 mph, my oil pressure reads between 30-35. That speed, btw, is nearly 'top' speed for my '36. After warming, at idle, my pressure hovers around 15-18 pounds. Sadly, if I drive stop and go in warm weather the pressure remains good but my temperature creeps up to 190 degrees. The way your rig is running with oil pressure and heat sounds ideal. I'd suggest you just drive and enjoy. Ray
  5. Mark: Shortly after buying my '36 model 41 two years ago, I had the enginge overhauled. Knowing an oil filter was an option back in the day, I had one installed. I changed it after driving just a few hours and discovered (to my horror!) the filter had absorbed a sparkling collection of tiny metal debris. My machinist assured me this was predictable and normal in a total rebuild. I've replaced the filter twice since then, and everything looks normal. After 2 years of recreational driving, my oil pressure readings are commensorate with yours and the engine runs perfectly. My rebuilder also swore that these engines would be adequately served with as little as 7 pounds of pressure at idle. Now, if only I could get mine to run as cool as yours in the summer! Cheers, Ray
  6. Dave: Knowing that my EE22 problem isn't unique is somewhat comforting. I just removed an electric fuel pump a previous owner installed. It put out 7 pounds of pressure and an inline regulator set to 3 pounds didn't stop the symptoms. My rig runs just fine now with it's original pump. I was about to insulate my fuel line thinking engine heat was causing the gas to expand. Will the raw fuel trickling down the carb after shut off damage my engine? I thought it might dilute/compromise the crankcase oil. I'll quickly inspect the check valve. Thanks, Ray
  7. My original engine & carb are rebuilt and start/run perfectly. My problem occurs after a 10 minute or longer drive. Three minutes after stopping, my Stromberg carb begins leaking raw fuel down the throat. It starts with a slow drip and accelerates to a steady stream of fuel for 3 to 6 minutes! Restarting when warm means holding the accelerator down as the engine cranks because it is severely flooded. Some fuel actually creeps out of the butterfly valve flange. Two local mechanics (and an owner) are baffled! Has ANYONE ever heard of symptoms like these? Help! Ray
  8. I need a replacement for my '36 model 40 Trunkback. Thanks, Ray
  9. HI, need a replacement trunk hinge for my 1936 model 40. Any/all ideas appreciated! Thanks