39BuickEight

transmission is cleaned and painted. There was some discussion on the proper color and there were some saying gray like the engine, some black, and some not painted at all, so I went with black. after: before:

looks like I'll go with black for the transmission :confused: anybody know how exactly the cars were built? I wonder if the engine/transmission were put in together, or of the transmission was already in when the engine was put in? That may tell us something????

I never knew about the different frame until yesterday. Interesting. I'll be posting some transmission photos next. I'm curious now that the correct color of it is not clear.

Should the transmission be gray like the engine? Just wanting to make sure. It looks like it in Grant's photos.

out of curiosity, can anyone tell me if my frame is the short one or the long one? updated pics coming soon, nothing too crazy

4.444:1 or optional 3.9:1 according to the brochure

During my research this year for my '39, I found that there is no "kit" per se, but supposedly you can take the shock apart and find all of the o-rings and whatnot individually at any good parts store. I would definitely be interested if there is such a kit available.

I contacted them about 39 parts too. Maybe by the time I need mine, they will have some made. I'm not crossing my fingers though.

let's compare the output of the 2 engines

great work! These posts always give me more inspiration to work on mine. However, mine will take MUCH longer than 2 years I like the heater on yours with the badges, it's different than the one that I have.

6.1:1 in the smaller ones (40's) 6.25:1 in the bigger ones (everything else)

I'll be tackling my tool tray in due time--not looking forward to that. You'rs looks nice! My car has been moved from the "restoration garage" to move the bass boat in for the summer. It will sit at my brother's shop during fishing season. I'll be trying to accumulate all the parts we need to reassemble the chassis in the Fall. I'm still a bit away from body work yet. I'm think best case 5 years to be on the road....the budget is right at $0 right now It took me 2 weekends just to blast the frame (the crevices are tough to get in, and my father and I are very particular).

I used black beauty--the finest grade they had. I scraped off the major stuff with a hand scraper, then we went to work blasting it. Here is my ongoing restoration thread: http://forums.aaca.org/f190/1939-buick-special-restoration-273123.html

Thanks for the comments everyone! We got into the hard to reach areas of the frame today, and the trailing arms (at least that's what I call them ): before: after: inside the frame:

some pics of some parts Dad has been blasting and priming over the past week (engine parts, springs, front end parts, middle of the torque tube)...

a little update--working on front end parts

thank you! Dad and I were busy setting up the new blasting cabinet this weekend. Any idea if I need to blast the core mounts or just send them in as is? I'll call them and ask too I suppose, just thought I'd ask here while I was typing.

I still love that color....Would it be "wrong" to paint mine that color?

Very nice Grant! I love it!

actually I do, but I was working on ordering these parts today without the book--sorry about that My main question arose because 2 different parts places gave me 2 different answers...and they both seem confident when I told them what the other said. I am sending off the mount for sure, but I'm still confused about the boot. Thanks for all the help everyone--I do really appreciate it.

This is what I have: I do have the other washer too. I need just the broken long stud (which I have found). The hard part will be getting that old nut off to ut on the new stud. Steele says the torque boot doesn't need to be vulcanized. I am totally lost on this part now.

Does the torque ball seal need to be vulcanized? On pg. 41 , Bob's sells one that is, but oldbuickparts.com sells one that is not (NOS part) and they said it doesn't need to be....unless I am looking at something wrong, which is entirely possible. and I found the bolt! Yippee!

it was only like that long enough to take pictures

thank you! with one more nice day of weather we'll have all the blasting done on it, but I can tell by the forecast, it may be a while.

good info...something to think about. Sequoia Cream is defintiely my favorite color, but I want it to be accurate too. Since my heater was installed through my ID plate, there is no official color code for mine (although I am certain it was black). sorry to derail the thread guys as far as the lights go, mine has the holes in the fenders for them, but they were removed well before I ever acquired it