39BuickEight

frame is coming along:

I'm thinking of doing mine that color, but I've seen some that are way more yellow too, so I am not sure which one it really is. That one is perfect (though I like matching wheels).

Is that car in the pic "sequoia cream?"

thanks for the quick reply! I will replace both mounts--but I am having trouble finding the bolt for the one side. It looks like Bob's and oldbuickparts.com are combining? The 2 sites are both partly down right now and one links to the other in some cases. Bob's shows a listing where you send your brackets in and they "vulcanize" the rubber into the mounts for $130 or so. That seems awfully high for 2 pcs. of rubber. What does "vulcanize" mean? Can you not just buy the rubber and put it in the mounts?

I will soon be putting the rear-end back under the car (the frame is all sandblasted and primed and painted, now working to blast the rear-end suspension parts) and I need some parts to seal up my torque tube/torque ball (not sure of the proper term) area. Where is the best place to buy a gasket/kit for this? I don't see anything from Kanter, and I found this: http://www.oldbuickparts.com/cat360/36005.pdf but it says all except 1939 Special I also need the funny looking fat lopsided bolt that goes thru the frame and holds it in place (see below). I only need the one for that side. Sorry for my explanation of it, but those of you who know these cars surely know what I am talking about. There was plenty of oil in the tube and it all feels really smooth, so I think I just need all the rubber parts and the bolt.

ok, looking at this again (still researching the engine history/color) Dave said the engine is original to the car. I found this about engine colors in the BCA manual: 1939-1941 Gray (production through 11/18/40) 1941 Dante Red 1942-1952 Turquoise My engine is definitely way more turquoise than gray (I think the head was reworked/replaced at some point since it is black) could a 1939 possibly have a turquoise engine from the factory? also in terms of body color---I've seen many shades of "sequoia cream" when I search for pics online--I really like some shades and don't like others. Can anyone confirm with a pic the actual correct shade of "sequoia cream?" Is it more of a yellow, or more of an off-white? It doesn't seem to be a very popular color, but like I said, I really like some of the ones I have seen.

during sandblasting we found the other place on the frame where the serial # is actually stamped in---a poor stamping job, but you can tell it matches the tag up front (33541271):

noting unfair at all about sniping--if you don't want to do it, just set your max bid and if you lose, you shouldn't be bothered because the item sold for more than you were willing to pay for it anyway our local police salvage auction works like Ebay, except for one difference, if there is a bid in the last minute of the auction , it automatically continues past the expiration until nobody bids for a minute, then it ends

I really appreciate that Ben--I read into that thread but I was too lazy to keep going-thanks again!

I was searching for the answer to this question.... Is there a company or any knowledge about rebulding the shocks yourself (front and rear) on a '39? I don't see why I couldn't do it myself-unless someone can tell me why? It seems the replacement pieces/parts needed would be inexpensive. Does anyone sell a kit to do such a thing yourself?

the handy dandy frame sandblasting setup, now if it would get above 20 degrees for a day:

I know my view personally is that I would rather (and am able) to spend a small amount on a project that I can enjoy, and spend a little each time along the way completing it rather than spending all they money up front on a basically done car. I think many people don't have $16,900 to spend on a car such as your and mine (eventually anyway), but do have a few hundred here and there to spend on one restoring it. Of course many people don't enjoy the dirty work, but I think the majority of us with these old cars at least like opening the hood and turning a few wrenches. In my case I'm sure I'll end up with $20,000+ in it like you have, but I have no intention of selling it, so I'm not worried about that part. I certainly wouldn't want to put much more than that into it, but if I can have $25,000 in a $15-$20,000 car that I built, I'm happy.

I have no idea personally what the difference would be. I'm sure they do if they are making the pieces. Thanks!

If that was close to me I'd buy it! I'd love to have that car for $2000.

and who might this guy be? I can always make the part, but for a decent price I'd rather not have to.

when I got the car it had a seat cover on the back almost exactly like that one

the setup we made for the body:

it is torn down as much as it can be---time for sandblasting..

thanks! and no, I am not a member yet

of course I am a car guy... The main reason I got into the older cars is because I think they are truly beautiful cars, and because I've always wanted to drive to the family Christmas gathering in an old car just like the one in A Christmas Story. My Buick is about as close as you can get, so that's how I ended up with it.

body coming off very soon!

thanks a lot guys!

ok-I'll take everyone's word for it since you all know way more about these things than I do! I'm in no place to argue

but when I change gears the cable doesn't really do anything--I can feel the gears changing in the shifter tho...

Can someone please tell me what this cable does/it supposed to do? I have run across it during teardown and for the life of me can't figure out it's purpose. It seems to want to do something when I run it through the gears. Thanks for any help!