39BuickEight

maybe a custom made piece for someone who restored a green car???????????

Thanks to you and your father! Antique Auto Battery said theirs were 14", so I might just get them there since I am paying shipping on the battery anyway. Bob's took care of me when I got my sticker "kit" they sell. It included the incorrect air cleaner decal for my car, I called them and they sent me the correct one free of charge. They could have charged me something, but they didn't. I know it doesn't cost much for them to make a decal, it can't, but it was a very easy phone call.

I love Bob's, but I hate their shipping policy. I always get as much as I can up to the next shipping amount since they charge by order dollar amount rather than what you actually buy. Grant and Ben, do you know what length the wires should be for a '39?

another question, Antique Auto Battery can't confirm if their cables are correct. They said it shows for 1941. Does anyone know the length of the positive and negative cables? or if 1941 cables would be the same as a 1939? Seems their pricing and shipping is way cheaper than Bob's on the cables.

is 1 gauge power wire correct? That's what Antique Auto Battery told me.

yeah, mine did not have any of those

I sorta thought the thing in the pic might be some sort of after markter cut off, but then I thought, why would he put it there? and why would he install it before anything else? Good eyes Danny!

Thanks Mike, so you think a '39 Special should have the shield like a '40 LTD? What are your thoughts? I saw one on eBay a few weeks ago and it said it fit various model Cadillacs and Buicks. I'll keep my eyes open.

I am ordering my battery and cables soon, and I have seen a few different photos/links that indicate I should have something holding my battery down, and maybe some sort of shield. Does anyone have any information on this? Here is a pic from another restoration I found: What is that round silver thing on the battery tray?

here is a pic of what came in my trunk, some creative lumber use to strengthen the rotten pan:

mine has a foot rest that attaches to the front seat, and it's sharp! I almost cut my hand every time I move it around: here is it covered in the orginal carpet still, you can kinda see it there, I don't have a good pic of it:

I am curious about this as well. The only trunk parts I have are the spare wheel, and the piece that tire hold down goes on that's attached to the car.

painted--we used Cast Blast, a product Dad has used before that holds up extremely well: Cast Blast -- Cast Iron Gray Spray Paint and Dave, thanks for the info! Looks like I need to find 2 acorn nuts for the wire cover. The valve cover isn't really tight yet, but I can see your point about painting the edges of the gaskets. mine has/had the boot on the throwout lever, but it is in pretty bad shape, seems they are original

engine updates...also, should the nuts on the plug wire cover match the acorn ones on the valve cover?

No puedo evitar ou encontrar las piezas que necesita, pero he usado el traductor de google para ayudarle a decirle a otros lo que usted necesita: I can't help find the parts, but I used google translator: "I own a 1934 buick 47 series I are missing sun visors, hubcaps and winged lady is on the calendar, I live in Argentina, and E. I am traveling to USA in August, where they believe I can find those missing. already thank you very much for helping me."

:eek: You can buy entire cars for $500 if you shop around :eek:

Is there any truth that you can run modern gas in these cars without changing to hardened valve seats? I've been searching and the information seems conflicting. Would a lead additive be necessary/helpful? I read that Buick heads had more nickel in them, making it ok to run them with modern gas?

From a moderator on a Chevy truck forum (ME ).... The old 6.2 diesel Chevys get good gas mileage, and that's it. Personally I'd rather have a 350 than one of those old diesels. You can't compare them to any other diesels in the last 20 or so years. For starters, it is not even a turbo diesel.

Perfect! I thought it was funny when it said to use a "9 inch wrench and one hand"

alright, here's another question... Does anyone know how much to torque the head bolts? It says to use a 9 inch wrench and one hand in the manual. Any idea how that measures? Also, do I need to put any special sealer other than the typical head gasket? Thanks again folks!

any thoughts as to the originality of this engine: Buick | eBay It has the Buick 8 decal on both sides of the valve cover? I've never seen that before. Looks like the fan is not painted, and the transmission is painted black. I'm not looking for mine to be 100% correct, but 90% would be nice

dropped the cylinder head off at the machine shop yesterday...slow going right now

Get a magnet and put it near the sludge, I bet it's metal, not oil. I used degreaser and lacquer thinner to clean out my pan, along with every other part we've touched so far

I am thinking if the cover was on there the mice would have had a lot more trouble nesting in the flywheel cover pan

I was reading around today and this question came to mind...Is my dash supposed to be woodgrained? I read on one site that only the Centuries and up were, and my original dash had some decent spots that do not appear to have been that way, but I see that some restored Specials that do have it done.