Ray500
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Posts posted by Ray500
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This is a typical delete plate for the 40s Lincolns. They sometimes have them for sale on ebay, other places might have one if you search around You can always paint one to match your dash if you can find one!
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V12 motors are what the are.....V12 motors with issues that have plagued them since their inception. Small pistons limiting compression and horsepower, oiling issues for oil distribution throughout the engine, cooling issues with the added baffles behind the water pumps that helps some. Those engines are big and very heavy adding to concerns about power and weight distribution. But setup and running properly they are the period machines we've all become to love in one manner or another. They sound powerful with their 120 HP or less at times to match the elegance still unmatched from that period of automotive history. So many were destroyed by rodders who wanted Ford's V8 power plant which was at best only a slight improvement. My dad who was a Lincoln Mercury mechanic put a V8 in his 1939 3 window coupe as he thought he needed more power too! Never could find that car as I never had the serial number from back in the day! So restore any and all of them and let's leave a history for future generations to envy of the times when real automobiles were made and enjoyed!
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I did that routine on my 41 Lincoln Zephyr, and yes you have to raise the vehicle up very high to get the whole steering unit with the attached steering shaft connected. When I received rebuilt one from a dealer who stocks the parts for the early Lincolns, he put a piece of PVC tubing over the long shaft and then wrapped the whole thing and put it on UPS. I have a new problem or one that was there after I finally stopped the 90 weight oil from leaking. I sealed the bottom with RTV silicon compound and got it to not leak. In doing so I removed the paper gaskets which I later found out are also shims to adjust the tension on the steering column. So now I have ordered more shims to determine the proper adjustment of the box, and then I will install the shims with more RTV to keep it from leaking. Also one trick the old timers used was to just put wheel bearing grease inside the steering gear box, but that doesn't work too well but of course it doesn't leak either! LARES is a company in the midwest that rebuilds them for about $600 + frieght!
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Finding the Lincoln solenoids is never easy. Most of the new reproductions are for the short shafted solenoids as Borg Warner built many versions of the R10 overdrive units. There are people who will rebuild them, but I don't think anyone actually uses new coil windings which can be problematic over time. The contact holding points internally do go bad with overheating too.
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Give Chris a call or email at Boos Harell Lincoln parts in Ohio. Other vendors might have one, I think it's not easily to repair with the wear on the collar and shaft. Also Merv Atkins out in Pomona California has a wrecking yard of old Lincolns, he might have a usable shifter to replace yours. He's on the Lincoln Zephyr Owner's Club website for contact information. A machine shop could shim the unit to tighten up the play if you can't find a usable one. I doubt there are any NOS ones after some 80 years, and most off of other vehicles will probably be worn too. Can't hurt to check with a reliable machine shop as to the repairs of your unit. The other issue is the wear on the steering shaft that is a bear to remove to do a better fit with the shifter unit. Good luck!
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Make sure you have the flywheel 'trued' and refaced so the clutch plate will fit tightly or you might have some jerky operations! A good machine ship can resurface it for you! You'll be glad you did!!!!
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You really need to go through the ignition system including plugs, wiring, distributor issues, fuel issues with the carb! If you're not familiar with the V12 the you need to send the distributor and coil to Skip Haney in Florida to have him check it out, repair as needed and reset the distributor as it requires a machine to do it off the car. The old coil....the black device sitting on top of the distributor can be rebuilt with new coils, and the rest of the distributor can be repaired and reset. Also get new spark plugs and plug wires. Plugs can be obtained at Napa and such, the wiring sets from Rhode Island Wire will work well. There are people who will repair the carb too and put in parts that tolerate ethanol (alcohol) in today's fuels. Once that's all done and working you can then see if that fixed it, or do you need to look further at the valves and engine compression tests. Perhaps you can find a good mechanic in your area to help, but most of the good ones are gone! These younger guys don't really understand these flat head engines with hydraulic lifters. Lots to think about! Good luck!
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Unity made different sorts of logos for the spot lights. Mine are original on my 41 and it does have the Lincoln logo. You can sometimes fine them and their parts on eBay. If Unity can supply an original unit it would be great even though a reproduction. There could be some NOS somewhere, not likely.
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The only thing special about these washers is they are thick. That's to allow for better torque. And whether or not they were originally on the heads, it's good to have them as you can certainly torque the nuts to the head studs (45-55#) better than just nuts alone! I would use stainless steel thick washers as they won't rust and can be removed easier if the heads ever need to come off.
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Not sure what's going on with this site, but it was modified some time ago and now hardly anyone logs on.
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Also call Merv Adkins in Pomona California, he's on the club rooster too! He has a large wrecking yard of old Lincolns, and he might have one. Earle Brown in Pennsylvania also has engine parts as well as Chris @ BoosHarrel Lincoln also on the club listings.
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The glass bowl on the mechanical fuel pump wasn't standard, but later and I think on Fords. But it's a nice addition so you can see if you're getting fuel to the carb. Hopefully you have a filter on the fuel line before the mechanical pump, otherwise you can clog the carb with junk. And yes, as Matt suggested remove the tank and have it blasted and resealed, and do replace the fuel line from the tank to the engine. The electric pump is also necessary at times. One problem with the mechanical fuel pumps is the diaphragm will eventually leak fuel into your crankcase thinning out your oil! Not good! The newer fuels we're forced to use these days also damages it. And the alcohol in the gas attracts water in the tank which can cause the rust too. If you have a pressure gauge it should be some 3-5 PSI to the carb. Too much pressure from the electric pump can cause the carb to overflow!
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Could make a monument out of it in tribute to the wasteful destruction practiced so long in the rush to push the 'plastic pigs' as someone recently lamented on all of us as real automobiles!
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If you can get a copy of Hemming's News it has listings for parts for your car. Most of us have vehicles prior to 1949.
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This car is on eBay now and it's a beauty for those who might be interested in have such all ready to roll down the road. I think it's in Michigan but worth looking at and it's got a video posted with it. FYI!!
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If the problem is in the tranny, you have to pull the rear end to get it off the motor. Lots of work, but if you do go through it with all new bearings and gears that aren't perfect. Remember Lincoln uses a main gear with more teeth than it's Ford counterpart. Get the parts per the parts book from one of the suppliers listed in the club website. If you have an overdrive that has to be rebuilt too. U joint is also to be replaced. And while you have it apart, it's best to remove the flywheel from the engine and have it resurfaced and 'trued' with a new clutch plate (Lincoln has a different one from Ford) and of course the throw out bearing needs replacing. You want to do it right when you have it torn down as it's such a mess if you have to do it again too soon! Good luck with it!
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You need to get a wiring diagram for the vehicle. In earlier Lincolns the center red lamp on the back of the trunk lock unit worked with the brake lights. The two side tail lights also have dual bulb filaments, one for brake/turn signals, the other for just real tail lights when the main light switch is on. There is a breaker for the light circuits. A wiring diagram really helps to trace it out. Also if the brake light doesn't work when you apply brake pressure on the master cylinder, the brake light switch mounted on the rear of the master cylinder might be defective. You can always put a jumper wire at the M/C to see if the light will light. Just simple tracing out the 6 volts going to different lamps!
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Where's the radio chassis? You only have the control head and cables. Looks like there is an empty metal housing for the actual radio!
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Actually removing the fuel sensor unit on the top of the tank will give about a 2 inch hole to remove the debris. Just make sure they properly clean out the tank which usually requires media blasting (like sand blasting) to get it really clean, then coating the inside with a hard rubber coating for tanks to keep it from rusting again. The outside of the tank you can paint or clear coat to keep the rust from forming. There was some previous discussions on this forum about all of this, not sure how far back you might have to search. Some of the radiator companies acid wash the inside of the tanks, and that might be an option followed by the coating to keep it from rusting. The goal is to get a hard coating on the inside of the clean tank so the fuel doesn't get contaminated by the rust and junk in the tank. Hopefully you have a good fuel filter up close to the fuel pump on the engine to filter out debris that can clog up the carb! If it were mine I'd also replace the fuel line from the tank to the filter also. Most of us are using electric fuel pumps on our vehicles to get the fuel to the carb quicker on starts. The entire fuel line/componets need to be either replaced or inspected. More Happy Motoring!!!
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To really repair this tank it will have to be opened up (top & bottom) like a clam shell. Cleaning it out will need to be done, probably blasting it with sand or media and then have it coated to keep the rust away for a while. The amount of water in fuel these days with 10% alcohol is a problem. There is a company that makes replacement gas tanks out of stainless steel, but they aren't original type, and I don't think they have the baffling needed to keep the noise of the gas sloshing around from becoming annoying. A company called Classic Tubing will make the correct tubing replacement from the tank if you send them the old one to match it. I got my brake lines (stainless steel) from them which they have patterns to make, but fuel is a bit different I guess. Once the tank has been repaired and blasted you can paint he outside with even a clearcoat to make it look original. Good luck with it!
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Someone no doubt was either siphoning gas and lost it into the tank. We used to call those hoses an "Oklahoma Credit Card" back in the day! But seriously the debris had to be induced through the filler tube of the gas tank. They don't belong there! You might fish them out, possibly could interfere with with the fuel getting out of the tank, and the old tube could break apart and jamb the fuel line. You can remove the sending unit with it's cap under the floor of the trunk and get it out that way! But since you took the tank out all seems well. You might want to get your tank lined usually at a radiator shop now that it's removed to help in the future with rust or corrosion issues!
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23 hours ago, zephyrdave said:
That picture was sent to me from All Ford Parts and is being sold as part # 40-6328. I believe the actual ones are steel. I think it might just appear to be galvanized in the pic. The one in the engine I'm working on is missing. I did leave a message for Earle Brown but he hasn't returned my call. Do you know if he is OK?
Dave
23 hours ago, zephyrdave said:That picture was sent to me from All Ford Parts and is being sold as part # 40-6328. I believe the actual ones are steel. I think it might just appear to be galvanized in the pic. The one in the engine I'm working on is missing. I did leave a message for Earle Brown but he hasn't returned my call. Do you know if he is OK?
Dave
I don't know how Earle is doing, but he's mostly responsive when I've called him and he's always called me back. Keep trying. Merv Atkins out in Pomona California might also have some parts as he has a fairly large wrecking yard of old Lincolns. You might contact Chris Herrel/Boos Harrel too as he might have the part. Other parts dealers might have it. Seems like it's not on every vehicle, appears to be a modification for oiling of rear main. The V12 had lots of issues back in the day, and seems like different modifications were made in attempts to fix a bad design of many issues. I think Ford also had oiling issues with early V8's too!
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That doesn't look like a Lincoln part! That's a 1/2" galvanized piece of pipe bent to perhaps replace the original. I believe the original was maybe a copper tubing or similar pipe. Earle Brown who's contact information is on the club website might have those, or one of the other suppliers. Good luck! It''s important to get the correct one!
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That looks like the temperature sender to the gauge on the dash. Thermostats were the Ford type inserted inside the 2 top radiator hoses with outside clamps to keep them in place. In warm climates most don't need them. Those old engines worked better at operating temperature, and of course in frigid climates people needed heat to keep warm inside the vehicle with the attached heaters either hot water or manifold type! Cleaning out the core is great, but remember those cores are thin brass and it will deteriorate over time and use and will eventually leak in different spots. When I had mine done some time ago I had a new core installed so I hopefully put those issues behind the whole project!
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Rear Parking Cable
in V12 Lincolns Only
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Your best bet is to call Chris Harrel of Boos Harrel Lincoln listed on the club website or on line as as if they have the components you're looking for. Cable is cable, so if you can carefully measure each section of yours you can find the correct diameter and lengths of each section and simply replace them. Many companies can cut and crimp each section for you. Using either aircraft or stainless steel rope cable you should get what what you need!