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Ray500

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Posts posted by Ray500

  1. A few years ago I purchased all my wiring and looms from Rhode Island Wiring, great stuff and it fit and worked perfectly.  I had previously talked to Narragagansett at one point, but I didn't like the attitudes or the service they didn't seem to offer.  Also their prices were higher.  If the owner died and no one qualified took over you don't know what you'll get.  A lot of the suppliers of our parts are individuals dedicated to helping us, but when they're gone it's a much different story.  Rhode Island Wiring has all the wiring diagrams to go with each wire loom they construct for each vehicle, making it easy with color codes on the wires to go to the correct places.  Good luck with it!

  2. You'd need to tear down the tranny, remove and check the flywheel to inspect for wear.  Flywheels warp over time and need to be reground so they are flat and the clutch fits tightly.  Lots of moving parts in the driveline, no way to really know but to inspect and make sure everything is tight and properly lubed.  Not an easy task as the rear end has to be removed to remove the transmission, and the engine pan removed to get the flywheel off.  Ole Henry and his engineers didn't make these cars easy to work on!   Differential could also have gear issues.  I'd replace the engine mounts too and make sure the U joints are good.  You're lucky to have a mechanic in your area that knows how to work on these old cars, the young ones at dealers haven't got a clue!   They keep looking for the computer on them!   

  3. And get a new Optima 6 volt battery for the best results.  They won't leak all over the battery shelf either like traditional lead-acid ones do.  You can get a Lincoln script cover for the Optima to give it the look of a traditional battery.  I also put an alternator which is housed in a traditional generator housing so it's very original looking but the battery will be charged at idle speeds unlike the old generators.  Not exactly how it was originally but a lot safer to drive and better reliability of operation.  

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  4. That appears to be a K.R. Wilson distributor tool for Ford V8s.  The V12 units are different.  I have a Lincoln one, and I also just got a copy of the 1994 magazine article written by Jake Fleming as to how to setup the distributors for the Lincoln V12s.  I never did see the article on line anyplace, might be a copywrite issue.  The club offers the old magazines at very reasonable prices to get the information.  The instructions I got when I purchased my unit aren't very clear, written by typewriter and faded over the years.  Someone actually was selling the tool instructions at one time on eBay.  

  5. You can get AW22 hydraulic fluid in 5 gallon barrels from Napa, we do for other hydraulic systems.  We used to buy it from Pennzoil but I think it's the same fluid.  But still small quantities I prefer Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil.  

  6. Actually Mobil One is a great hydraulic fluid.  We use it in hydraulic gate systems and no problems!  Probably will work in the old hydraulics of the old window or top cylinders.  The biggest problem with any hydraulics is they all leak sooner or later.  So good seals are a must to keep it under control!   

  7. It it's rusty and corroded internally loosening it up with penetrating oil like Blast will get it going, but it will continue to give trouble.  Better to find a new one.  There are suppliers listed on the club website, and they might have a replacement and less of a problem messing with old corrosion and such that is almost impossible to really fix reliably.  

  8. I'd leave old lead alone!  You can certainly sand it if it's exposed, just make sure  you have a proper respirator if your messing with it.  Lead poisoning is more a problem for young children, but still not something you want to inhale.  In the old days they heated lead like a plumber who sealed pipes to fill crack and holes in body work, then sanded it smooth and finish painting it.  It was a hard lead but still lead.  It never really adhered like Bondo does in more  modern body work, and sometimes it would split away from the seams in body repair.  It was dangerous to say the least, and hot lead is nothing to mess with!  I've seen Bondo put over lead patches, sometimes that doesn't work if the lead isn't solid.  Any paint/body work is hazardous to your breathing, it's always best to avoid as much of it as possible.  Good luck!!

  9. You must be referring to the rubber tubing that is clamped on the connection of the dash inside shaft control and the under the hood shaft that goes to the throttle and chock units.  I'll try to take a photo of mine later and post it.  Thanks, Ray

  10. That cluster gauge assembly should come out as a unit if you can get the rear brackets off that hold it to the dash so you can remove the oil gauge.  But you might also check the voltage at the gauge while it's mounted in the car if you can get to it.  One side of the gauge is connected through a resistor to the battery, the other is going out to the sensor on the engine.  You can ground the sensor lead at the gauge if you can get to it and observe the gauge to see if it's responsive.  With battery voltage on one side and ground on the other side of the gauge....if it doesn't respond then the gauge is probably the problem.  A mirror and flashlight looking up behind the dash might give you a clue as to removing the cluster.  Looks like there are some add-on controls under the dash which might have to be removed temporarily till you can get he cluster out of the dash.  Good luck!

  11. The cluster of gauges is part of the speedometer unit if it's original.  Most of these cars have a lot of stuff behind the dashboard, and little room to work on it just sticking your head up behind the dash and trying to work.  On my '41 I found it easier to just pull out the speedometer cluster.  I also replaced the wiring with new cabling with new exact wiring color code and wire covering that was as the original.  On these vehicles the old wiring was rubber covered, and this many years later the rubber dries up, cracks, and exposes the wiring harness to shorts and a fire.  So for safety and proper operations new wiring is essential to the restoration of your vehicle.  It updates your wiring yet it's as if it were just as original.  Nothing like reliable electrical circuits including lighting especially in these 6 volt systems.  Some quick examination of the condition of the wiring in your vehicle including around the instrument cluster can help determine the best way to replace the oil pressure gauge.  It will be easier if you can remove the cluster from the vehicle and replace the gauge on your work bench to do it properly.  

  12. Getting the speedometer cluster is very tricky, and can challenge anyone with large hands.  There are stud mounted brackets that hold the cluster to the dash, and once you release them the wiring is tight in some cases, but that's the only way you're going to get to the cluster to replace the oil gauge.  Some do what the ratrodders do an add an oil gauge separately under the dash as a quick fix.  It is important to have a good working oil gauge.  Might be a good idea to make sure the replacement gauge you have is in good working condition by temping it in outside the the dash to make sure it's functional.  Also sometimes bad wiring conditions cause gauges not to work which also needs checking.  

    Good luck on it!

  13. I save all the bolts and other items in the restoration of my vehicle, and I checked the old bolts and they have no inscription or label on them what so ever.  So the new bolts I put in different places look the same.  But they won't rust in the future making it easier to work on things.  Perhaps the Ford bolts are different from the Lincoln ones.  The only way you can tell is if you use a magnet to check whether a bolt is ferrous metal or stainless.  

  14. Actually when rebuilding or just cleaning up and repairing I prefer to use stainless steel screws, bolts, nuts, washers, etc. to cut down on the rust.  Original manufacturers other than perhaps Italian high end vehicles didn't use them because of cost, and you weren't supposed to keep a vehicle long enough for it to rust.  We have a nut & bolt house here and they carry most sizes.  You can probably find stainless steel ones in  your area if you search around some.  And remember most automotive bolts are fine threads, but certainly available.  Probably on line too!   It's cheap insurance of your ride not rusting up and easy to remove any part of it with stainless steel hardware!   You can paint them to match the location on your vehicle, so no one knows they are upgraded.  I used stainless steel nuts on my heads and then capped them with chrome plated caps to give them a custom look without really deterring from the value and keeping it original!

  15. Does anyone know if there are any aftermarket stainless steel gas tanks for the '41s?   Even regular tanks might work, but I would prefer a stainless steel one so it won't corrode with the ethanol gas we have these days.  There are custom stainless steel people will make, but they're just boxes that make the vehicle look like a rat-rod, not the original.  Thanks, Ray

     
  16. Does anyone know if there are any aftermarket stainless steel gas tanks for the '41s?   Even regular tanks might work, but I would prefer a stainless steel one so it won't corrode with the ethanol gas we have these days.  There are custom stainless steel people will make, but they're just boxes that make the vehicle look like a rat-rod, not the original.  Thanks, Ray

  17. On 2/9/2019 at 8:46 AM, harris speedster said:

    I need parts for the 1936 streamlined tail lights.

    Really need one of the chrome stainless rings that lock the glass lens into place.

    Also need two of the clear glass lens that illimnate the license plate.

     

    Could also use a license plate stand bracket;

    OR, a complete tail light.

    I do have parts I could trade off to get what I need.

    Thanks in advance,

    John

     

  18. Do some checking in your area for deals of hauling vehicles, there are a lot of empty trucks that can be used most places.  The liability you incur doing this sort of thing yourself without proper equipment or insurance is asking for a big legal problem should something go wrong.  You can rent containers...the 20 foot kind and then find a trucker who will put it on his trailer and take it wherever you want.  Not much is very cheap these days, but there are deals and considerate people who will help given the opportunity and making known your situation.  Good Luck!

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