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Ray500

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Posts posted by Ray500

  1. Yes, you have to remove the fan blade to get the clearance you need to get the radiator in or out of the vehicle.  There are small bolts that hold the fan to the vibration damper on the front of the engine that have to be removed.  You need the radiator back in the vehicle first and then attach the fan unit.  And no, it's not that easy, but what on these engines is easy?   If you had the hood removed and the engine on a hoist you could just drop it in fan attached if you have such a setup with the radiator already installed.  I also like to cover the radiator core with some cardboard panels so I don't damage the core while working on the fan installation.  Luckily you don't have to do all of this except every 100 years!   

    • Like 1
  2. I wouldn't mess with the stabalizer bar, that's attached to the front suspension and you might have problems putting it back together taking that splice joint apart.  You simply need to work the new lower radiator hoses onto the pumps.  Put a little grease on them to make them slip on easier. Also put the hoses in some boiling water for a short time to limber 'em up so you can get them on the pumps.  I remember when I replaced mine and I had hard time to stop the leaking.  I used some very hearty hose clamps and then they worked fine.  You might as well take the water pumps off if you can and send them to Skip Haney in Florida to rebuild them.  You will have to sooner or later if they're old like most of them.  And if you don't have the brass diverters that fit behind the water pumps to get better cooling to the rear of the engine, great time to get a set.  Skip might have them, I think Chris Harrel has them at Boos Harrel Lincoln.  Good luck with it!!!!

  3. Pulling out the OD control cable takes it out of Overdrive.  There are some written articles about the full operations of the overdrive on this site that will be helpful.  And yes if you remove the OD solenoid the seal will probably leak if you try to reinstall it with the old seal.  Best to get one or two of them prior to removing it.  It's small but necessary so the transmission fluid doesn't leak. 

    Tom sent this link to check it out!

     

     https://www.ebay.com/itm/164778447694?fits=Year%3A1948|Submodel%3AContinental&hash=item265d8f934e:g:MWYAAOSwNHFgWse2

  4. If you have a bad OD solenoid, there are places that fix or exchange them.  Not cheap but available.  Best to remove it from the OD and test it with a battery.  (6 volts)  Be careful if you're not familiar with it.  And there is a small round seal that fits on the shaft of the solenoid before you mount it to keep the oil in the OD from leaking.  There are several sources for those like Boos Harrel and other vendors.  There are points inside the solenoid that act as hold-in during operations of the OD.  Most techs with the diagram can figure it out.  Also check the governor unit on the OD as part of the electrical control of the OD.  All the wiring including the distributor wiring and the relay under the hood that controls the OD need to be checked and operation verified.  

    • Like 1
  5. The best way is to have it actually gold plated, but of course that can be expensive.  And you also have to be very careful with actual gold as it will rub off with the wrong kind of polishing!  Get some estimates from different plate companies as they is the preferred method rather than trying to recreate the macoid paint process.  

  6. From 2013....

    MarkG

    Junior Member

    Members

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    8 posts

    Posted July 19, 2013

    Hello all!

    I own a '40 Lincoln-Zephyr Continental Cabriolet and we're TRYING to figure out the best way to restore the interior hardware's gold (macoid) trim.

    I came across this post:http://forums.aaca.org/f128/gold-macoid-substitute-maybe-309784.html ...but was wondering if you all had any "other insights".

    Thanks!

  7. Try Merv Adkins in Pomona, CA. He has  a bunch of old Lincolns, and he might have them.  Great guy to do business with also!   You can log onto the Lincoln Zephyr Owners Club website and his phone number is listed.  His email is 'mervadkins@charter.net' to see if he has what you need.  Other vendors on the club's listing might have them too!   

    • Like 1
  8. There's a guy in upper Michigan that has these doors and want to get rid of them.  If anyone needs them let me know and I'll send you what I have to contact the guy.  Otherwise he's gonna toss 'em out!   Be a shame as these kind of parts are every hardly available!

  9. Yeah.....my 41 has a vent tube from the air cleaner that fits into the intake manifold.  But the only other manifold connects are for the distributor and wiper motor.  I think there were different versions of these setups.  Some who have added PCV crankcase venting have drilled and threaded into the intake to accommodate the additional device.  I was never tempted to add such to my engine, probably can't hurt as there are a lot of fumes in the oil pan.   

  10. No, windshield wiper is connected to the intake manifold.  That hole could be for PCV valve for crankcase ventilation some add to their engines even though they didn't do that back in the day.  It's below the throttle venturis of the carb, but shouldn't be open to suck air into the fuel delivery!   

  11. Your best bet is to call Chris Harrel of Boos Harrel Lincoln listed on the club website or on line as as if they have the components you're looking for.  Cable is cable, so if you can carefully measure each section of yours you can find the correct diameter and lengths of each section and simply replace them.  Many companies can cut and crimp each section for you.  Using either aircraft or stainless steel rope cable you should get what what you need!  

  12. image.png.841c4e68a8f821be9f751010904c7359.png 

    This is a typical delete plate for the 40s Lincolns. They sometimes have them for sale on ebay, other places might have one if you search around  You can always paint one to match your dash if you can find one!  

  13. V12 motors are what the are.....V12 motors with issues that have plagued them since their inception.  Small pistons limiting compression and horsepower, oiling issues for oil distribution throughout the engine, cooling issues with the added baffles behind the water pumps that helps some.  Those engines are big and very heavy adding to concerns about power and weight distribution.  But setup and running properly they are the period machines we've all become to love in one manner or another.  They sound powerful with their 120 HP or less at times to match the elegance still unmatched from that period of automotive history.  So many were destroyed by rodders who wanted Ford's V8 power plant which was at best only a slight improvement.  My dad who was a Lincoln Mercury mechanic put a V8 in his 1939  3 window coupe as he thought he needed more power too!   Never could find that car as I never had the serial number from back in the day!   So restore any and all of them and let's leave a history for future generations to envy of the times when real automobiles were made and enjoyed!   

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    • Thanks 1
  14. I did that  routine on  my 41 Lincoln Zephyr, and yes you have to raise the vehicle up very high to get the whole steering unit with the attached steering shaft connected.  When I received  rebuilt one from a dealer who stocks the parts for the early Lincolns, he put a piece of PVC tubing over the long shaft and then wrapped the whole thing and put it on UPS.  I have a new problem or one that was there after I finally stopped the 90 weight oil from leaking.  I sealed the bottom with RTV silicon compound and got it to not leak.  In doing so I removed the paper gaskets which I later found out are also shims to adjust the tension on the steering column.  So now I have ordered more shims to determine the proper adjustment of the box, and then I will install the shims with more RTV to keep it from leaking.  Also one trick the old timers used was to just put wheel bearing grease inside the steering gear box, but that doesn't work too well but of course it doesn't leak either!   LARES is a company in the midwest that rebuilds them for about $600 + frieght!   

    • Like 1
  15. Finding the Lincoln solenoids is never easy.  Most of the new reproductions are for the short shafted solenoids as Borg Warner built many versions of the R10 overdrive units.  There are people who will rebuild them, but I don't think anyone actually uses new coil windings which can be problematic over time.  The contact holding points internally do go bad with overheating too.  

  16. Give Chris a call or email at Boos Harell Lincoln parts in Ohio.  Other vendors might have one, I think it's not easily to repair with the wear on the collar and shaft.  Also Merv Atkins out in Pomona California has a wrecking yard of old Lincolns, he might have a usable shifter to replace yours. He's on the Lincoln Zephyr Owner's Club website for contact information.    A machine shop could shim the unit to tighten up the play if you can't find a usable one.  I doubt there are any NOS ones after some 80 years, and most off of other vehicles will probably be worn too.  Can't hurt to check with a reliable machine shop as to the repairs of your unit.  The other issue is the wear on the steering shaft that is a bear to remove to do a better fit with the shifter unit.  Good luck!

  17. You really need to go through the ignition system including plugs, wiring, distributor issues, fuel issues with the carb!   If you're not familiar with the V12 the you need to send the distributor and coil to Skip Haney in Florida to have him check it out, repair as needed and reset the distributor as it requires a machine to do it off the car.  The old coil....the black device sitting on top of the distributor can be rebuilt with new coils, and the rest of the distributor can be repaired and reset.  Also get new spark plugs and plug wires.  Plugs can be obtained at Napa and such, the wiring sets from Rhode Island Wire will work well.  There are people who will repair the carb too and put in parts that tolerate ethanol (alcohol) in today's fuels.  Once that's all done and working you can then see if that fixed it, or do you need to look further at the valves and engine compression tests.  Perhaps you can find a good mechanic in your area to help, but most of the good ones are gone!  These younger guys don't really understand these flat head engines with hydraulic lifters.  Lots to think about!  Good luck!

  18. Unity made different sorts of logos for the spot lights.  Mine are original on my 41 and it does have the Lincoln logo.  You can sometimes fine them and their parts on eBay.  If Unity can supply an original unit it would be great even though a reproduction.  There could be some NOS somewhere, not likely.  

  19. The only thing special about these washers is they are thick.  That's to allow for better torque. And whether or not they were originally on the heads, it's good to have them as you can certainly torque the nuts to the head studs (45-55#) better than just nuts alone!  I would use stainless steel thick washers as they won't rust and can be removed easier if the heads ever need to come off.  

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