Ray500
-
Posts
317 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Ray500
-
-
Call Chris at Boos Harrel Lincoln, I got mine from him!!!!
-
It still needs replating for a better show car appearance!
-
Be careful buying those types of parts from unknown sources, Lincoln parts are very specific. I know some have used Ford wheel cylinders, but they are not the original ones. Log onto Lincoln Zephyr Owner's Club as they do list suppliers. There have been some 'new' ones made recently, probably China. Brakes are critical on these cars, so put the proper ones on so you don't have to worry about stopping! Make sure you put on the proper high pressure hoses to the wheel cylinders too, as they go bad after time and use. In redoing my brakes on my '41 Zephyr I also changed out the brake lines as the old ones can leak as they are flexed when turning on the front, and flexed on the rears in operations.
-
Chris @ Boos Harrel Lincoln usually has them. Give him a call! Lincoln brakes are different from Ford, but I think the wheel cylinders are very similar. Shoes are a bit different. I just rebuilt my '41 Zephyr brakes and the fronts are easy, rears are harder. I have a special puller to get the hubs off the rear. Those bearings need replacing while you're working in that area. Chris has all of those items to make it happen!
-
Everything from the fuel tank to the run components of the V12 are suspect! Distributor and fuel issues are paramount in these problematic areas! Don't overlook the fuel pump, it can intermittently loose pressure. Carb is a big suspect too. Best to redo the distributor parts, carb and fuel components till you resolve the issues! If you can't adjust the air/fuel balance on the carb that would be a good place to investigate There are places that the carb can be sent for rebuilding, just watch the size of the jets they install. Some dump too much fuel into the engine, others sorta starve the engine for fuel. Check the vacuum from the intake going to the distributor at different RPM's. Mostly the windshield wipers and the distributor only use the vacuum from the engine. But it has to be there! Should be at least 17 inches of vacuum at idle, depending on the condition of the V12.
-
Regardless, you're gonna have to go through it transmission and all to get it cleaned out and bad parts replaced. It's a bear to get it all out, having to drop the rear end to get things away from the bell housing and start the repair process. Ford must have found it easier to just bolt everything up as a unit, and reverse removing everything to do simple repairs. If you could just remove the drive shaft and then work on the transmission, overdrive (if you have one) and the clutch plate, pressure plate, and fly wheel along with a new throw out bearing, that would be easy! But no, you almost have to remove everything to get to a bad bearing. And you might have damaged the flywheel. The least you need to do is to remove the flywheel and have it reground to make sure the clutch plate fits properly during operations with no chatter. And by all means get the best bearings you can find, and the proper clutch plate which is different from Ford with more sectors. You will need a lift to raise the car to the proper level and keep it there during this job! Been there and done that one! Good luck with it. You probably will also have to remove the engine pan to get the flywheel and deal with the rear seal so the engine doesn't leak oil!
-
Give Chris a call @ 215-965-8296 in Ohio and just leave a message and he will respond as soon as he can. This time of year so many aren't where we'd like them to be, but they will return. Also check on the LZOC club for other vendors who might have the parts you need until Chris returns. 80 year old parts can be challenging at times!
-
The steering shaft is internally connected to the steering gears. You will need to remove the entire steering gear box and the steering shaft. When I took mine out it was a challenge as I don't have a power lift either. I was able to barely get it off the garage floor enough to clear things to slide it out under the car. These cars were meant to be constructed and not reconstructed! You might have to drive it or have it towed to a garage, have the gearbox removed, send it to Lares for repair, then reverse the whole process. Otherwise you might rent some industrial jacks that can raise it up enough to get the steering gear unit out of the vehicle. Yes, it's dangerous doing this without a proper lift, so be careful! If you do take it to a garage to use their lift to get it up high enough to slide out the gearbox, just prep the car by removing the steering wheel and associated components prior to having it towed. Then once you get to the garage all you'll have to do is disconnect the pittman arm and the side bolts holding it to the frame. You will probably need a "pickle fork" tool to separate the pittman arm or a puller, that part is easy. Then once you get it out of the vehicle you can tow it back to your house until you can send the gear box for rebuilding. And once you get it back prior to reinstalling it, put it on the workbench and make sure it's all set to go by making sure the clearances have been properly set before you fill it with the 90 weight oil and put it back on the car. I had to play the adjustment on top of the gearbox to get it as easy and smooth as I wanted it to be. Once it repaired and returned to you it should be fine. I did rebuild my entire front end on my '41 so everything steering wise works easy now. Remember we don't have power steering, just that big steering wheel to do our turning so it needs to be smooth in operations. And most important make sure it doesn't leak oil before you reinstall it on the vehicle. Fill it with the 90 Wt. oil on the bench and let it sit for a while working it some to see if it's sealed up. I had to use some silicon sealant to make sure mine didn't leak! It's all in the end plate of the steering gear box and that's also where the paper shims are used. If it's properly rebuilt it should be fine! That's why some would fill the steering gear box with wheel bearing grease that won't leak out, but that's a lousy lube and the steering won't be easy or smooth! Good luck with it!
-
I did replace the steering gear box on my '41 Zephyr, and it was a bear to get out. Yes, the steering shaft is attached to the steering box. You have to elevate the vehicle up some 4 feet in order to remove it from the car. After removing the steering wheel and associated parts inside the car, you can then unbolt the steering box from the frame and the associated linkage to slid it out. I had paid an outfit some $900 to send me a rebuilt unit which they did, but their rebuilding was terrible and had problems. I had to remove it again and then work on replacing the internal shims in order to get the play out of it and adjust it so it steers properly. I should have gotten one from Lares properly rebuilt. It's difficult to rebuilt it on the vehicle, you really need to remove it and put it in a vise as those shims (paper) have to be properly stacked to get the clearances you need. I'd recommend just sending it to Lares as you probably have some worn parts after 80 years to get it working properly. If you think shims are all you need to get it going, you can get them from Chris Harrel at Boos Harrel Lincoln. You also need to seal it up as you will need 90 weight oil to fill it once it's working. And they stuff does leak with little effort so sealing it up can be challenging! If you ship out yours as a core for rebuilding you can put a piece of PVC pipe over the long shaft and secure it for UPS shipping. Not sure if Lares requires a core or they just rebuild yours. Good luck with it! An old trick was to fill the steering box with axle grease due to leakage of the 90 wt. oil which is a lousy thing to do and makes it hard to steer.
-
I recently found a company that will duplicate the Lincoln fuel tanks from stainless steel. It's called rock Valley Auto in Illinois. My '41 will cost about $1100 to make, but then it will look original and not ever have to worry about corrosion or rust. They also weld new baffles in it. Takes about 3 months, but a lot better than trying to clean out old tanks which you can't properly clean or seal otherwise. Their number is 815-645-2271. You might want to check it out if you need to replace your fuel tank!
-
1
-
-
Steel Rubber might have some. Can't recall where I got mine for my 41 Zephyr club coup, but they aren't that easy to install to really seal out the weather. Any after market things can be problematic and not fit properly. I think the rubbe of today is better material, but if they don't fit properly it's mostly academic anyway! Look in Hemmings monthly publications for ads on all sorts of sources!
-
Certainly get rid of any old gas in the tank and the lines/fuel pump. White vapors sounds like some water vapors. You should probably have the carb rebuilt check the distributor too. Cars sitting around for times isn't good. Cars were made to drive, at least somewhat to keep them running. If you can find ethanol free gas use that instead of the regular gas. These engines were designed for leaded gas, but of course the EPA won't allow such! The lead also helped lube the valves too. If government had their way you'd need to remove the mighty V12 and install a bunch of batteries and electric motors in it. The corner gas station is an endangered species! Good luck with it!
-
What, no electric in line fuel pump to get things moving? This is all very basic. You can always put on a new fuel pump if you suspect it isn't working. You can also activate the main engine fuel pump off the car to see if there's any vacuum on the input of it. Put some gas in a small container, rig up the pump to pump from that to another container as your work the lever the pump rod does. If not, toss the pump and get a new one! They're too cheap to get stalled by the side of the road. The electric in line pump is necessary at times to get fuel moving into the carb!
-
Great to hear Skip made it through the storm!
-
Yes, there are different sizes. And remember to change the connecting links mentioned early. They connect the sway bars and shocks to the front suspension. Also all the rubber parts of the sway bar are important to replace. Chris has them for most things. Probably some Ford types will also fit. I redid my entire front end with new king pins and spindles. Had the machine shop fit them prior to installing them so they were smooth and no binding. It will make the steering a lot easier. If you're going to the trouble of replacing some parts, it's a lot easier to change all the moving parts, bearings, and assemblies that you can. I did have a rebuilt steering gear that another supplier sent me, but they didn't do it correctly, but I was able to put in the proper shims and have the steering operate properly. A lot easier than returning it and hoping they would correct it. In the '41 the steering the entire steering shaft is attached and operates the worm gear in the gear box, so it's a challenge to ship it other than totally intact. There is a company called Lore I think that still rebuilds old steering gear boxes. It is worth the effort as we don't have power steering on these cars!
-
The 2 rusted vertical pieces are connectors used in suspensions in a lot of Lincolns. I replaced all of mine on my '41 Zephyr when I rebuilt the front end. Boos Harrel has them, they are pretty universal I think so they will work. They are new and easy to put on. You sometimes need a pickle fork to get 'em off, or just cut them off as they need replacing. They come with threaded connectors in each end facing opposite directions with mounting nuts. They are actually flex units so they move with the front end movements. I also did bead-blast parts of the front suspension in my replacement, but if I could get new parts which I did mostly that made things easier. I painted the parts and it looks like a new car! I also replaced my sway bars and bushings which is important. The old rubber was just worn out! I also will use stainless steel bolts when I can. I know some purists like the original bolts that get rusty, but I paint them all black anyway and they look original! Have fun with 'em!!!
-
Chris Harrel probably has them in his stock @ Boos Harrel Lincoln! Send him the photos and he'll check itout.
-
If you look on published color codes for 1948 you'll see a Grotto Blue and Regal Blue as factory colors. That doesn't mean your paint was included as it might have been a special order. Not sure if the factory actually had other colors, and it could be your vehicle was painted afterwards some 75 years ago. Unless you're restoring the car for full inspection and certification as original, you're gonna need some guidance from the certification bureau as to what's acceptable. An no matter what, even if you found some odd color your vehicle was painted with, trying to match it perfectly in today's world will be a challenge as those color charts fade and the exact formulas of paint companies of that day are probably not available! Get the color as close as possible, paint the sheet metal internally the same as outside as cars were done in those days. And remember, they didn't use clear coats on the paint, it was either lacquer or enamel with probably 2-3 coats and of course proper primers to keep the paint on the vehicle.
-
Not that easy, but certainly doable! Yes, you have to remove things in the way to get them off, but well worth the effort. I recently rebuilt my whole front end on my '41 Zephyr. Remember cars of this vintage were built to run about 50,000 miles and then on to the junk heap. Problem is they kept turning them out afterwards so there was never of a shortage in the junk yards. But the front end handling/driving needs solid components. Worn rubber bushings cause issues in steering and such. You can get new bushings from Chris Harrell!
-
It measure s 8 7/8 inches tip to tip. I got it from Boos Harrel Lincoln parts. Not sure how critical the length might be of an existing one in use, but this would be a guide to check it by. I understand some use Ford ones, but if you're going to raise the pump lever properly it needs to be of the correct height. And remember you can also have wear in the socket the rod fits in on the pump which would make a difference. It only pumps 3-4 pounds of pressure into the carb. And also old fuel pumps can get leaks in the diaframe of the fuel pump that would allow gasoline down into the crank case thinning out the oil. Need to check that one for sure! I do have an electric pump back by the fuel tank to push the gas up to the carb when I need it to start of run better. I did use some one way check valves in the setup on the electric pump to get the best operations. I will take a photo of the new electric fuel pump and send it later. Hope this helps!
-
-
Note...this letter wasn't sent to me, it was on line posted by the person on the letter as far as I know. I felt it's important to all Lincoln enthusiasts and owners directly from the grandson of Edsel Ford. Enjoy!
-
-
Remember, NAPA paint stores can custom mix your colors if you have any samples. They use a scanner into their computer and the computer mixes the paint. That doesn't mean it's exact, but it will be as the sample you submit. Taking old paint samples can be problematic in repainting the entire vehicle. You might want to have them mix a small batch and put it in a spray can so you can check it out better before you commit to a particular color mix. There are paint charts around for all different models, and that might be your best bet to get it close as possible. And after all, when someone sees your finished project they won't have another exact one like it to compare, and even if they do who's to say which one is correct. Check also with Chris Harrel at Boos Harrel Lincoln who stocks parts as he might have a color chart.
1938 V12 Bearings
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
Strongly suggest you contact H&H in California that specializes in these engines for you to have a successful rebuild! They have the parts and experience to make it work! Good luck with it!