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Posts posted by Ray500

  1. Also call Merv Adkins in Pomona California, he's on the club rooster too!  He has a large wrecking yard of old Lincolns, and he might have one.  Earle Brown in Pennsylvania also has engine parts as well as Chris @ BoosHarrel Lincoln also on the club listings.  

  2. The glass bowl on the mechanical fuel pump wasn't standard, but later and I think on Fords.  But it's a nice addition so you can see if you're getting fuel to the carb.  Hopefully you have a filter on the fuel line before the mechanical pump, otherwise you can clog the carb with junk.  And yes, as Matt suggested remove the  tank and have it blasted and resealed, and do replace the fuel line from the tank to the engine.  The electric pump is also necessary at times.  One problem with the mechanical fuel pumps is the diaphragm will eventually leak fuel into your crankcase thinning out your oil!  Not good!   The newer fuels we're forced to use these days also damages it.  And the alcohol in the gas attracts water in the tank which can cause the rust too.  If you have a pressure gauge it should be some 3-5 PSI to the carb.  Too much pressure from the electric pump can cause the carb to overflow!   

  3. If the problem is in the tranny, you have to pull the rear end to get it off the motor.  Lots of work, but if you do go through it with all new bearings and gears that aren't perfect.  Remember Lincoln uses a main gear with more teeth than it's Ford counterpart.  Get the parts per the parts book from one of the suppliers listed in the club website.  If you have an overdrive that has to be rebuilt too.  U joint is also to be replaced.  And while you have it apart, it's best to remove the flywheel from the engine and have it resurfaced and 'trued' with a new clutch plate (Lincoln has a different one from Ford) and of course the throw out bearing needs replacing.  You want to do it right when you have it torn down as it's such a mess if you have to do it again too soon!  Good luck with it!

  4. You need to get a wiring diagram for the vehicle.  In earlier Lincolns the center red lamp on the back of the trunk lock unit worked with the brake lights.  The two side tail lights also have dual bulb filaments, one for brake/turn signals, the other for just real tail lights when the main light switch is on.  There is a breaker for the light circuits.  A wiring diagram really helps to trace it out. Also if the brake light doesn't work when you apply brake pressure on the master cylinder, the brake light switch mounted on the rear of the master cylinder might be defective.  You can always put a jumper wire at the M/C to see if the light will light.  Just simple tracing out the 6 volts going to different lamps!


  5. Actually removing the fuel sensor unit on the top of the tank will give about a 2 inch hole to remove the debris.  Just make sure they properly clean out the tank which usually requires media blasting (like sand blasting) to get it really clean, then coating the inside with a hard rubber coating for tanks to keep it from rusting again.  The outside of the tank you can paint or clear coat to keep the rust from forming.  There was some previous discussions on this forum about all of this, not sure how far back you might have to search.  Some of the radiator companies acid wash the inside of the tanks, and that might be an option followed by the coating to keep it from rusting.  The goal is to get a hard coating on the inside of the clean tank so the fuel doesn't get contaminated by the rust and junk in the tank.  Hopefully you have a good fuel filter up close to the fuel pump on the engine to filter out debris that can clog up the carb!   If it were mine I'd also replace the fuel line from the tank to the filter also.  Most of us are using electric fuel pumps on our vehicles to get the fuel to the carb quicker on starts.  The entire fuel line/componets need to be either replaced or inspected.  More Happy Motoring!!!


  6. To really repair this tank it will have to be opened up (top & bottom) like a clam shell.  Cleaning it out will need to be done, probably blasting it with sand or media and then have it coated to keep the rust away for a while.  The amount of water in fuel these days with 10% alcohol is a problem.  There is a company that makes replacement gas tanks out of stainless steel, but they aren't original type, and I don't think they have the baffling needed to keep the noise of the gas sloshing around from becoming annoying.  A company called Classic Tubing will make the correct tubing replacement from the tank if you send them the old one to match it.  I got my brake lines (stainless steel) from them which they have patterns to make, but fuel is a bit different I guess.  Once the tank has been repaired and blasted you can paint he outside with even a clearcoat to make it look original.  Good luck with it!

  7. Someone no doubt was either siphoning gas and lost it into the tank.  We used to call those hoses an "Oklahoma Credit Card" back in the day!   But seriously the debris had to be induced through the filler tube of the gas tank.  They don't belong there!  You might fish them out, possibly could interfere with with the fuel getting out of the tank, and the old tube could break apart and jamb the fuel line.  You can remove the sending unit with it's cap under the floor of the trunk and get it out that way!   But since you took the tank out all seems well.  You might want to get your tank lined usually at a radiator shop now that it's removed to help in the future with rust or corrosion issues!   

  8. 23 hours ago, zephyrdave said:

    That picture was sent to me from All Ford Parts and is being sold as part # 40-6328. I believe the actual ones are steel. I think it might just appear to be galvanized in the pic. The one in the engine I'm working on is missing. I did leave a message for Earle Brown but he hasn't returned my call. Do you know if he is OK?



    23 hours ago, zephyrdave said:

    That picture was sent to me from All Ford Parts and is being sold as part # 40-6328. I believe the actual ones are steel. I think it might just appear to be galvanized in the pic. The one in the engine I'm working on is missing. I did leave a message for Earle Brown but he hasn't returned my call. Do you know if he is OK?


    I don't know how Earle is doing, but he's mostly responsive when I've called him and he's always called me back.  Keep trying.  Merv Atkins out in Pomona California might also have some parts as he has a fairly large wrecking yard of old Lincolns.  You might contact Chris Herrel/Boos Harrel  too as he might have the part.  Other parts dealers might have it.  Seems like it's not on every vehicle, appears to be a modification for oiling of rear main.  The V12 had lots of issues back in the day, and seems like different modifications were made in attempts to fix a bad design of many issues.  I think Ford also had oiling issues with early V8's too!   

  9. That doesn't look like a Lincoln part!   That's a 1/2" galvanized piece of pipe bent to perhaps replace the original.  I believe the original was maybe a copper tubing or similar pipe.  Earle Brown who's contact information is on the club website might have those, or one of the other suppliers.  Good luck!  It''s important to get the correct one!   

  10. That looks like the temperature sender to the gauge on the dash.  Thermostats were the Ford type inserted inside the 2 top radiator hoses with outside clamps to keep them in place.  In warm climates most don't need them.  Those old engines worked better at operating temperature, and of course in frigid climates people needed heat to keep warm inside the vehicle with the attached heaters either hot water or manifold type!  Cleaning out the core is great, but remember those cores are thin brass and it will deteriorate over time and use and will eventually leak in different spots.  When I had mine done some time ago I had a new core installed so I hopefully put those issues behind the whole project! 

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  11. I had my redone some time ago, but yes you have to pull out the rear end in order to remove the transmission & overdrive.  You might as well go through both of them since it's such a pain to get it out.  There are parts out there from the listed sources on the club website.  You have to be careful with the transmission as there are different gears (different number of teeth) in the transmission should you need to replace it due to wear.  OD is pretty standard, there are places you can get a rebuilt OD solenoid which is very different than the old Ford units as it has a longer shaft.  Also good time when it's apart to change the clutch/throwout bearing and any other part that needs replacing. Clutch plate is also different from the Fords with a different spline setup.   I also had my flywheel removed and resurfaced/balanced so no clutch chatter.  Lots of old flywheels get warped and like a brake lining to the drum it doesn't make good contact.  Good luck with it!  

  12. We have lost some of the pioneers in the restoration process.  We have only their thoughts and ideas written in this on line blog to refer to in times of frustration in doing repairs and restoration of these vehicles.  Documentation on most of these cars from the mid 30's onward is limited at best.  Back in the day a lot of the mechanics were self taught, gaining experiences by working in garages on these cars with limited literature or information.  If a person who was interested in working or restoring these cars got lucky, they would have a mentor somewhere that could teach and guide them along the way.  Most of the vehicles are pretty simple to repair but somethings do require guidance understanding.  Flat head engines are pretty much the same in any vehicle, Lincoln with their strange distributors setup for 12 cylinders and similar ones in Ford could have been better engineered as were later cars.  The V12 had a bad reputation as to performance with low horsepower.  Even Henry's first V8's left a lot tot be desired in many aspects.  There was a struggle to get some power out of engines which took a few more years through a big war in order to achieve those goals.  Given the fact that most of these cars are over 80 years old with parts being scarce, it can be challenging to decide to take on projects like proper restorations.  Ford Motor Company hasn't been the best source when it comes to supporting old car repairs and restoration of their previous offerings.  They are market driven and expect people to trash old cars for new ones without regard to the classics and the desire to bring them back through hobbies that could certainly use some valid parts and restoration support.  It is also obvious that a lot of the younger people don't seem to have a burning desire to restore a lot of these old ones with more attention to technologies of other persuasions that might offer more support.  We do owe a gratitude of appreciation to those who still support this hobby with parts available even on a limited basis.  And yes, there is a hoard of parts in people's garages and collections that slowly make their way to the open market having been saved for future use.  Now that the most of the 'hot rod culture' has passed perhaps more attention can be paid to the restoration of the classics!   

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  13. Most any muffler shop can install a muffler/exhaust system on most any vehicle.  There are offers on line for a full stainless steel exhaust system for Lincolns you can purchase and then have installed so you can forget the rusty issues of ordinary mufflers and pipes!   If you look in Hemmings monthly publication you can find some.  Some of the old muffler systems leak and the carbon monoxide can leak into the vehicle, hardly worth the risk!

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  14. You might find some original bolts, I think one of the Ford sites might have old bolts.  I would take one down to a good nut/bolt shop or hardware store and get matching bolts/washers.  I prefer stainless steel bolts, other have argued that it's not original unless you put the exact bolts back on your vehicle.  I don't like the rust most of them have, and I don't know if it makes any difference.  Most of our vehicles will never be formally judged for such things anyway.  Most automotive bolts are SAE fine threads, but easily obtainable.  

  15. I'm in the process of doing mine on my 41 Zephyr Coupe.  I am changing all the parts.....master cylinder.....wheel cylinders....new brake lines.....hoses....brake shoes...the whole thing! Now it might seem like a big investment, but it's not!  Your life can depend on your brakes, a small price to pay for solid stopping power.  I had intended to put on a duel master cylinder, vacuum booster also, but left that stuff in the box and am proceeding with rebuilding the brakes to original specs to keep everything original.  I've done all the wheel and master cylinder rebuilding in the past, but not all of that works out with worn parts.  When you hone a wheel cylinder sometimes it's not really true and can leak.  Those things are inexpensive so why hassle it?   Gather up all the parts and take your time in rebuilding unless you have a race tomorrow!   

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  16. I did hear a story by someone in the Lincoln history of V12's that said in the later  1940's a bunch of new engines that were sent to the scrap heap as no one seem to have wanted them from some supplier.  But then a lot of the world's auto history has been destroyed by unthinking individuals who seemed mostly interested in things not yet invented denying us the legacies of our history!   

  17. The horn ring should have small plastic tabs on the 3 points where it contacts the horn ring on the steering wheel.  They are probably worn off, and when they 'short' the horn circuit to operate it you're probably getting some inductive sparks that you will feel when you push on the horn ring.  You need to look at an exploded view in the parts book that shows you the horn switch assembly and order any bad or missing parts.  As to getting the steering wheel off, there's a nut on the end of the steering shaft that holds the wheel on it.  Remove the nut and gently tap on the base of the steering wheel to nudge it upward.  It is keyed to the shaft.  Knobsoup will rebuild your steering wheel with new plastics if it's defective.  His name is Keith Lee, and he's a club member.  Horn parts should be available from Boos Harrel or other suppliers if you need them.  

  18. Shops that rebuild in brass are out there, you might have to send to to another area to get it done.  You don't want any aluminum cores like new cars have as they will rot away in time.  Also aluminum usually have plastic tanks on them.  Mos vintage Lincoln radiators are brass all around and the core can be soldered into the tank/frame and give a long service if you keep coolant in them.  Proper radiator caps are also important!

  19. On these old cars, some of them over 80 years old you can't trust anything when it comes to safety equipment like brakes!  Spare nothing to get the best brake job with the best parts you can find.  I do have an original NOS master cylinder built in the USA, so I think it will work well.  I do bench bleed as air can trap in any part of the brake system.  You'll eventually get it all out if you keep bleeding.  I have a pressure tank I will also use in the bleeding process just as soon as I get all the appropriate fittings to I can bleed without having to have someone stomp on the brake pedal over and over which can also cause more air bubbles.  That way all the components that are brake related will be renewed and properly installed so the thing will stop when it's supposed to!   What more could one ask for???   

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