Jump to content

Ray500

Members
  • Posts

    234
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Ray500

  1. I had inquired of Classic Tube where I got my new stainless steel brake lines for my '41 Zephyr as to the availability of new gas lines.  They told me they didn't have them in their line of supplies, but they could replicate your old ones if you had them available.  Certainly copper tubing isn't what should be used, but if you could locate some original tubing from that period you could renew the lines and hoses. Try some of the suppliers listed in the Club's website.   Another important element is the gas tank.  It can fill with corrosion and such and create issues with the fuel supply to the engine. Cleaning it out off the vehicle and having a good coating put in it will help.  There are aftermarket fuel tanks but expensive.  I wanted a stainless steel tank but that's a modification that alters the vehicle and most don't have the baffles in them that keeps the tank noise in check.   A good fuel filter is certainly necessary to keep junk out of the carb and intake.  I have one just below my fuel pump on the engine.  Also the electric fuel pump is needed at times to get the fuel to the engine as those old mechanical pumps has issues.  Mine in in line with the fuel line about half way between the tank and engine.  

  2. If you can find a good radiator shop they can build you a new core and keep it original.  Cores today are aluminum not brass like the 30's & 40's.  Mine cost me over $800 some 10 years ago, still works great.  I do have the baffles behind the water pumps which helps get the water to the rear of the engine as the ole V12's notoriously run hot.  I would never drive it too long at high speeds or on mountain roads to get it too hot.  I live in a tropical climate and we don't use thermostats usually with radiators.  Mine are installed but I don't drive much so no problem.  The Lincoln V12's used thermostat's inside the two top radiator hoses like the old Fords of the day, but it works well without them unless you live in the colder climates and need to get the engine up to temperature faster as the engine builds heat fairly quickly.  When Skip Haney rebuilds the water pumps he puts new impellers in the with better bearings and seals to get the best cooling possible including the issues mentioned in the first part of this posting.   

    • Like 1
  3. If you're going to replace the spark plug wires, best to remove the harness from both sides of the engine and lay it out on a table to either sort out a new set properly trimmed, or to take bulk wire and cut to length which is preferable.  Make sure you know where each of the 12 wires plugs into each side of the distributor.   6 on each side, but if you get them mixed up it won't run!  Draw a diagram of the engine for each plug's position and which wire it connects to on the distributor.  Best to use a continuity tester like an OHM meter to verify each wire in the conduits and tape mark it so when you reinstall it you will know where each end goes.  Pay attention to which holes in the conduit allows which wires to exit to be connected to the spark plugs.  Also once you strip out the old wires from the conduits, good time to repaint the conduits so they look better.  Some of the wires which are 7mm can have a rough exterior making them difficult to crowd inside the covering of the wires.  Yes, some lube can help but do put in the long ones first and short ones last.  Be careful not to nick the cables inside the conduit, they can arc and engine will miss.  Ole Henry I suppose wanted to save money and use the smaller conduits as he never had to replace wires in his!   Good tight connection of the spark plugs and the distributor places are important and seated properly.  Good time also to replace the rotor in the distributor and the plates on each side as they wear down.  I have mine clearing about 1/10,000 of an inch as the distributor rotates firing each plug.  There are places that rebuild those plates and rotors for the best firing in the engine, giving good firing to each plug.   Good Luck!   

    • Like 1
  4. Basically you are running the car off one of the 6 volt batteries.  You are putting the 2 in series is for starting the vehicle.  Running 12 volts through the starter too much can overheat it if over utilized.  The 2 diodes are for charging both batteries from the 6 volt generator/alternator.  The diodes offer isolation from the batteries and still get a full charge to each battery when the engine is running.  A new alternator (6 volts) will work best without all the regulators of the old generators.  Alternators have built in regulation.  I can draw you a simple diagram later on how to hook it up.  

     

    If your engine is in good tune,  easy to start, and you are using 00 gauge cables on the battery and starter with very good grounds, a 6 volt system with a 6 volt alternator as I have on my 41 works well without having to rig up 2 batteries.  At 6 volts the starters usually pull some 200 + amps when energized, and that's easy for the Optima as it puts out some 800-1000 amps under full load fully charged.  Using 12 volts it should need about 50% of the current, but remember you're using a 6 volt starter so the current will be a bit higher, no real problem with the 12 volt setup other than overheating it.  Lots to consider!  

  5. I would take a metal saw like a SawzAll and cut away the center section which appears to be cracked leaving the studs.  And if you can also cut around the studs to remove as much material as possible leaving only the rusted studs in the manifold.  Then it's going to take heating of the old studs to get them out.  If you still have issues a good machine shop can do it for you.  

  6. Merv is great....got a lot of different parts....has a wrecking your of old Lincolns in the Pomona, California area.  Glad you were able to get the part from him!   I got some front axles for my '41 from him and had them machined with new king pins ready for installation soon.  Things do wear out in time!   .  

  7. I am in the process of replacing the brakes on my 41 Club Coupe.  I have new brake lines (stainless steel) to use, and rebuilt master which will need to be checked carefully.  I did buy some aftermarket brake parts earlier that would update the brake system, but it requires a lot of modifications to get it installed and working.  You can get vacuum boosters that will fit with some effort too to increase the efficiency of the braking system. And no, originally there were no proportion values to balance the pressures from front to rear.  It's always a temptation to put on a more modern dual master cylinder and the valves, but you have to remember you're altering the vehicle even though some will argue that is't safer in modern day traffic which is hard to argue with in some places.  And remember as in all of these types of brake jobs your wheel drums have to be machined as perfectly round as possible, and you need to make sure the brake shoes are properly 'arced' to fit the drums for good contact in stopping.  Not sure who have brake shoe arcing machines anymore.  I will also change all the flexible brake hoses at each wheel too.  With all the components replaced with good items  and not aftermarket components you should have good working brakes if you remember you're not driving a modern power  disc brake system and treat it as such!

  8. Great to find other vendors.  with these cars being some 80+ years old parts aren't easy to find.  We don't throw anything away as they are scarce. Some parts can be rebuilt too as most know, to keep these special automobiles on the road.  After all they are from an era when automobiles were made solid, not out of cheap metal and plastics, and the designs were spectacular to say the least.  Even with the issues of the V12's they are still some of the greatest vehicles every made!

  9. Skip Haney in Florida probably has one as he rebuilds them.  Those pulleys are made of cast iron, and are very brittle to break easily is hit.  Other suppliers like Boos Harrel might also have them.  Maybe even the Ford Barn or other old Ford parts house might have one that is the right size in diameter and shaft size.  You will need a pully-puller to get it off the shaft.  There's probably a small roll pin securing it to the pump shaft.  Good Luck with it!    

    • Like 1
  10. Try to call Merv out in California.  He has a large wrecking yard of Lincolns and has a lot of parts!                                   

     

    MERV ADKINS
    9655 HIDDEN FARM ROAD
    RANCHO CUCAMONGA, CA 91737
    (909) 980-1332
    1936-1948 LINCOLN-ZEPHYR/CONTINENTAL PARTS
    * Engines
    * Transmissions
    * Skirts
    * Grilles
    * Instruments
    * Rust Free Sheetmetal
    * Engine Rebuild Kits
    * Motor Mounts
    * Frame Mounts
    * Transmission Mounts
    * King Pins
    * Drag Links
    * Wheels
    * Bumpers
    * Carburetors
    * Generators
    * Starters
    Everything from nuts and bolts to complete cars.
    f70649_dfb6e0b8025141bab609b70b68952eb2~
    Too many parts to list; call me for those hard to find parts!
     
     

    © Copyright 2008 - 2020 Lincoln-Zephyr Owners Club

  11. Someone might have changed the rims, not sure if 15's were standard or not.  The biggest issue is that with smaller tires the speedometer/odometer don't register the same.  The 15 inch ones work as you've experienced with the old tube type tires. But tubeless/radical tires are lot safer from blowouts the old tube type tires were on these cars.  You might also try Coker or other tire companies, but most tires are standard sizes.  16 inch rims are hard to find and expensive.  Good Luck!

  12. Try Earle Brown listed on the club website for engine parts.  With all the aftermarket parts out there, mostly old one never knows.  I would think the mechanic doing the rebuilding would check the clearances of the pistons. And when you're over-boring and using larger pistons I think most bets are off as to the outcome.   You could shave them off, but you might upset the balance of the engine.  In race engines they balance every moving part, I doubt over the counter parts are balanced.  A quality machine shop should be able to rebuild the engine properly.  Good Luck!   

  13. Sean....there should be a nut that mounts the wiper control to the dash that goes under the knob.  The knob alone won't hold it properly in place.  You should be able to find a nut and a thin washer at a hardware store that would properly mount the wiper control.  It will be a very thin nut probably about 3/8"  threaded onto the shaft that fell inside the dash when the old knob was removed.  You can probably see it with a mirror and flashlight and just push it back through the  hole in the dash and put a nut on it.  Good Luck!  

    • Thanks 1
  14. Check with Knob Soup about their knobs.  They are cast from known good parts so they should fit.   Keith Lee will help you figure it out.  You might have to drill some additional holes  in the new glove box handle so the screws will fit exactly.  Good luck with it!

    • Thanks 1
  15. There are places that will rebuild them.  Had my '41 redone some time ago, but don't remember who did it.  Check with the club to see who's doing what!  Also google repairs of old vacuum wipers and you might find someone who's still fixing them.  I was tempted to try to replace it with an electric version, but in the interest of originality I opted for repair and keeping it original.  And I can't remember driving it in the rain anyway!   

     

  16. Without a serial number (VIN # in today's language) it is almost impossible to find it if it still exists.  I tried to find my dad's 39 Zephyr coupe, but didn't have the serial number to even start looking for it.  I had old license plate numbers, but our illustrious state governments purged all old registration files years ago so there are no records on these old cars as to their serial numbers.  There might be some records somewhere someone might have saved, but who knows where they might be in this day and time.  Even old insurance records might have information, but that's a tail chase too as those records were probably destroyed too.  Ford does have records of 'As Built' for some of their vehicles, but all are listed by serial numbers from what I understand.  I got the "As Built" on my '41 Zephyr, but then I had the serial number as I had to register it.  Good Luck tracking it down!

  17. There are new reproductions of those fuel pumps, and the Ford ones are interchangable with Lincoln.  Ole Henry did use the same parts on either vehicles at times, at least internally.  You can get them with the glass bowl which lets you see if you're getting gas from the tank.  I have an electric booster fuel pump in my fuel line to help get the gas to the carb quicker.  It's mounted under the chassis in the gas line from the tank.   And don't forget to put in a good fuel filter to help get the junk from the tank out of the gas going to the carb.  You can find rebuilt pumps and get kits to rebuild them, but it's hardly worth the trouble.  The biggest problem with fuel pumps if when the diaphram in the pump leaks gas into the oil.  They all eventually breakdown with the old style of pumps.  Good Luck!

  18. Try Earl Brown who's listed in the club website.  He has all sorts of mechanical parts, he lives in Pennsylvania.  Also Merv Adkins in California or Chris @ Boos Herrel might have them.  The bolt you could easily make if you can find the exact size in a hardware store, and drill a hole in the head.  Good Luck!

  19. Sounds like an oil pump problem, you might have to take the pan off and check out the pump and see if it's there and properly driven.  Some rebuilds aren't like others!   There are high volume pumps available if yours isn't working.  Best to contact one of the distributors listed on the club's suppliers and get all the small parts/pickup screens with it should you decide to replace it if it wasn't replaced when the engine was rebuilt.  

×
×
  • Create New...