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Posts posted by Ray500

  1. You have to remove the steering wheel, steering column locking unit,  and unbolt the steering gear box from the frame and slide it out under the vehicle.  That is after you remove the pitman arm connection.  I replaced mine with a rebuilt, some work and a lot of effort to get it in and out if you don't have a lift.  You have to get the car high enough to allow it to come out.  Also it seemed impossible to get it to stop the leaking of the 90 weight oil in it, so I finally got some of the gasket seal compound instead of just the gaskets.  It seals with a silicon compound and once I had it sealed up not a drop of oil leaked out of it.  Modern mechanics use the stuff for engine and transmission pans to keep them from leaking,  Paper gaskets just don't work well.  And also old cars like these have warped parts like the sheet metal parts.  Paper gaskets at best will probably seal better with totally flat surfaces and not overly tightened bolts!

  2. Lots of work to restore properly and completely.  Taking the body apart, especially off frame can be problematic since it's a uni-body and often it doesn't fit back like one would like.  Going this far you would want to replace things like all the wiring harnesses and brakes complete  as well as shocks and exhaust.  when you have it apart it's a lot easier to do these tasks.  Also motor, trans, differential, front end......like building a new car!   And remember if you're rebuilding to sell that doesn't always work too well with the cost of parts and the amount of time.  But a great hobby and a proud project once it's completed.  Do document each step of the restoration in photos and comments.  Good luck!

  3. Yes,  the rear and wishbone need to be out of the way.  This isn't a small job, so you want to address any and all issues from the flywheel to the rear end of the vehicle while you have it apart.  Flywheels also need to be 'trued' which means ground in a machine shop so the clutch plate fits firmly against it like you want your brake shoes to fit the drums for maximum contact.  It should be done on a lift as it doesn't work well in a 'shade-tree' environment.  The transmission and OD if you have one should be gone through completely while they're out of the vehicle to resolve any issues.  When I did mine the rear end/differential with the wheels was removed to allow the transmission and OD unit space to remove them and reinstall them.  Good luck!  

  4. You have to remove the driveshaft and usually the transmission and OD unit if you have one and block the rear of the engine to support it while the transmission is out.  Then with the transmission and OD out of the vehicle it's easier to replace the seals wherever needed.  Might be a good time to replace the clutch face, throwout bearing since you have it apart! When I did mine a supplier sold me a Ford clutch plate which is smaller so be sure to get the Lincoln one.   Lots of work...Good Luck!




  5. All large files like videos have to be uploaded through a service like Vimeo and they provide a link for the receiver to look at it.  Anything over 25 MB won't be allowed on most browsers like Yahoo and such.  Vimeo is free basically.  Internet can be a bummer sometimes!

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  6. That's the same as my '41 filter.  The elements when you change the oil is available from Advance Auto Parts.  Their number for the original filter  (P34) is L30034 and the last price I paid was less than $7.00 each.  I buy them by the case as it's cheaper on the freight.  As to hydraulic or solid lifters, the connection is different but mine is hydraulic and no particular reason to change that.  If you change your oil regularly even if you don't drive much the lifters should be fine.  Ford always wanted an oil change every 1000 miles.  I do use Mobil 1 motor oil and it works well.   

  7. I have a AM/FM board I built up into a 41 radio cabinet.  Those boards are from a company in Florida that builds retro radios for old cars.  They are all 12 volts, so I use a 6-12 volt converter, and a small battery on the unit (12 Volts/7Ah) to smooth out the voltage/current hidden under the actual battery under the hood..  I modified the dial indicator for adding FM to the radio.  Looks original and plays well, with a couple of Sony sub woofers under the front seat, and a couple of small speakers under the dash.  If you don't look too close you don't notice.  I still have some other '41 radios I haven't restored yet and one I did restore before I configured the AM/FM so I can reinstall it to be fully AM original!   If you're gonna crank good tunes you need the power, and this configured radio puts out 185 watts if you are hard of hearing!   Not as loud as the 10,000 watt blasters the kids use, but sufficient!   

  8. Skip actually replaces the coils inside the housing which is the best way.  After so many years the insulation on the copper wire will break down and you'll get internal shorts that are difficult to find.  When the coil arches internally you don't know it, but you get a much smaller spark to the ignition.  Best to send them to him and let him clean them out and replace the copper windings for a better operation.  The ballast resistors on the small panel under the dash are important to make sure you're getting 3-4 VDC to each terminal of the coil when the engine is running.  The resistors drop the voltage from the battery of  6 volts DC and allow the coil  and points to run the ignition.  You don't want a full 6 volts on the coil, not necessary.  You also want at least 3-4 volts for proper operation.  Get or borrow a reliable digital volt meter and check it once you've gotten the rebuilt coil installed. And don't forget the condensers, they can cause poor operation too.  Most don't have capacitor testers, so just get a new pair and not worry about it.  And watch that fan blade as it's close quarters to put your hands around the coil.  Test leads with alligator clips are the best to move the testing away from the fan.  

  9. Try Merv Atkins...he's got a lot of things and alot of old cars!



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  10. Yes D the modification of putting in a PCV valve is a good idea on these old engines.  And of course all 'singing' should be left to stations on the radio, not the tranny!  I do need to put PCV valve in my 41 mine which I will get to once I have my new brakes installed.  

  11. That's from the 1930s when they used mechanical cables from the control head to the radio chassis usually mounted on the inside firewall.  Sears and others in the day made thee universal radios to fit any car as most cars of that day didn't have radios.  They were considered a luxury and expensive for the time.  They certainly can be restored to operate, but remember they're 6 volt units, and Ford products of that time had a positive ground so you have to be careful installing it in any vehicle.  Just my thoughts!

  12. I use Mobil 1 oil as it works well in the V12.  Seems to be less sludge and it stays clear for a long time.  Remember, in the old days they recommended changing oil every 1000 miles.  I also change the filter cartridge at the same time I change the oil.  I like the synthetic oil and use it in my modern vehicles too.  Just my preference.  Since I live in a tropical climate I don't have to chase the viscosity numbers from freezing to boiling in the environment.

    • Like 1
  13. I did some research before I bought wiring looms.  At the time  Narragansett was having some issues, don't remember exactly.  Rhode Island Wire has large rolls of wire of different gauges with proper color coding.  They told me they have the exact patterns and they actually make the looms as originally  provided with a machine binding around the conductors.  I think  you can request samples from either one to see what you like.  The main thing is to have the proper color code on each wire so you know where to connect it on each end.  Remember there are differences in the vehicles from types of bodies and features.  Some don't have overdrive, but if you do you need certain wiring to make it work.  Good luck!


  14. Your best bet is Rhode Island Wiring to get the complete wiring harnesses to keep the vehicle original.  They use the correct wire size for each circuit with original color codes making it easy to install and connect each component.  There are other providers of wiring, but I found them very reliable and helpful to get the right harnesses and once installed everything works!   Call them  (401) 789-1955 and discuss it with them.  They also have the wiring diagram for your vehicle.  Things like the battery cables you can get from sources listed in the club's site, and certainly Boos Harrel Lincoln can provide such.  Correct ground battery cable is important and to properly attach, as well as the 00 ga. main battery cable connecting to the starter solenoid.  When I purchased my '41 it had a battery disconnect switch, but I removed it as theer was a fractional voltage drop using it and with 6 volt systems you need every volt to operate the vehicle.  I also suggest you install an alternator to keep the battery charged. Powergen has them and other distributors do that are built into the original generator case to make them authentic.  Alternators will charge the battery to full at idle speeds, the old generators won't.  Good luck with it all!

  15. I've found Ford substitutions to be problematic with vendors who think their Ford parts will work on Lincolns.  There are interchangeable parts, but not many.  With so few real original parts still available from any source one has to be careful what they order and try to make work.  Like all other vehicles there were a lot of after market manufacturers back in the old days that made parts to fit Lincolns, some worked and some didn't.  It's strictly 'Buyer beware' when it comes to correct parts.   Ebay is a big offender too allowing the posting..."Fits a 19__ Lincoln"!   

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  16. On 8/8/2018 at 1:11 PM, detroitsoul said:

    The sleeve is true.  I sent the part back but my supplier only has a Ford part available that is slightly shorter.  He says with a slight modification of the flare that it should work.  Anyone else try this?  We had to do a complete teardown because of lack of compression.  Its looking like the intake manifold failed maybe from sitting so long (20 or more years at least). Everything else is slowly coming together.  I'd hate for this to be the sticking point after so long.  Regards,





  17. Definitely I would recommend replacing the MC with a dual.  And use proportional valves to balance front to rear stopping pressures.  You will need to install remote reservoirs under the hood to keep the MC filled as you won't be able to fill it under the floor as the old one did.  Speedway and Summit racing have parts to fix this.  I'm going to install a Wilwood dual cylinder with remote reservoirs and a 7 inch vacuum assist for much better braking.  Those reservoirs can be mounted with a kit under the hood so you can keep 'em full of brake fluid.  Speedway can help you with the setup.  









  18. The  voltage at the connection point on top of the distributor/coil should read about 2-3 VDC using a 6 volt battery on each side running.  If it's not there then the resistors on the regulator board mounted on the firewall inside the car might have to be changed.  You can also measure the voltage on each side of the resistors and make sure you have a fully charged battery.  Wiring or corrosion could be an issue, with mine I replaced the entire wiring harness some time back to eliminate any wiring issues and because it was 70+ years old.  Don't forget to make sure you have solid good grounds from the battery to the engine/body.  

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