Cokekid

Ray500 Thanks for the info were to buy lines. Tom. I will give it a try when I am going to do the brakes Gerry

Again I have come across another problem wit the engine that was rebuilt. The part #6319 is called a Oil Slinger and it looks like it was damaged either removing or installing it. My question is can it be straightened or does it have to be replaced.? Gerry

While waiting for some parts to be delivered I started to look for things I could do now. I was always wondering how the Damper worked so I started to examine it. When I looked at the engines from the #1 seized engine and then looked at the #2 rebuilt engine I noticed a difference. The first picture is from the #1engine and it shows the damper set back into the block. On the #2 engine the damper is set further out. #1 engine #2 engine I would appreciate if someone would explain to me how this part works. Gerry

I decided to use a torch and cut the Riser off around the studs and it worked. I then heated up the studs and was able to remove them with my Easy Out Tool Thanks for all the suggestions

I keep reading about bench bleeding the master cylinder. Can someone explain how this is done. I also am interested in replacing my brake lines. Did you buy them already assembled at each end.? Gerry

38ShortopConv. There is no more risk to be taken. I had heated one stud and after letting it cool a bit I tried to remove it and it snapped clean off at the base of the Heat Riser. It looks like I'm going to have to drill the remainder and tap it. Gerry

Mssr. Bwatoe I have the bolt and nuts for the left side and from what I understand a bolt is screwed in from underneath on the left side. I don't have thes two bolts and will have to see if I can buy them. 38ShortopConv. The only place around me to buy bolts and nuts is a store called Braffasco.. They may have the parts you used. Been dealing with back problem lately and will let you know how it all worked out. Gerry

38ShortopConv I had it soak in Marvel oil for 3 days and was still unable to remove it. The Manifold is not cracked. Ray500, Mssr. Bwatoe I am going to attempt to cut the valve off. After that I will try what 19tom40 has suggested to remove the studs. Matt the Manifold is ok. Have been having a back problem lately and will let you guys know how I worked out.

I am trying to find the necessary hardware to attach the motor mounts to the engine and the frame. In the parts Catalog it shows parts for the left side Bolt#20225-S Washers #351428-S #34808-S and nut #33802-S My question is where's the info for right side, Here is a photo of my mount the area in question is in Red . Gerry

Shortop Conv .Just so happens last week I had bought two bottles of Marvel Oil last week. I will give it a try. Ray500 I have never hear of this of this saw and will head out to the big box stores to see if the have one. Tom, If the Marvel Oil doesn't work I will give 50/50 solution. I will let you guy know which one worked. Gerry

I am trying to figure out how to remove this Heat Riser from the exhaust manifold on a v12. I have heated the studs and the manifold but that never helped. The last thing I want to do is crack the manifold. Accepting all suggestions. Gerry

Jored, I was talking with him today 909 980 1332 Gerry

C. Douglas Johnson J. I contacted one of the parts suppliers named Merv Adkins and he agreed to sell me one for $50.00 + shipping.

vintage1, I will give them a call. Thanks for the tip.

Ray, I guess I will be doing a lot of phoning around to se if someone has this pulley without having to buy the whole pump, Tom, I remember there were two water pumps that I had and never knew were they came from but they looked like Fords, as they had that hidden hole for a bolt. I should be so lucky as to have found a replacement. As you can see shaft that the pulley goes onto is a little smaller. I appreciate the offer. Thanks for replying to my post. Gerry

I dropped a water pump and it broke off a section on the pulley. Anyone have a spare pulley to sell.?. Gerry

I was working on my Lin motor and had just place a water pump on the bench to work on. I had to get up to go over to the tool box for a wrench and never notice I had set my foot into a cord for my air compressor. That's when it happened, the water pump game of the bench and hit the floor causing the damaged to the pulley as shown in the picture. I am hoping someone has a pulley for sale. I will post in the Buy section, I just wanted to show what can happen if you are not paying attention to your surrounding. Gerry

Mssr. Bwatoe Off to hand tighten all the parts. Thanks Gerry

I am starting to assemble all the parts back onto the V12 Engine. I was wondering if anyone knows were I can obtain the data on how much torque is used when installing these parts, Cylinder Heads, Water Pumps, Intake Manifolds and all the other parts. Gerry.

The part arrived yesterday from C & G Ford Parts. It was exactly what Larry had suggested. Ford part #91A-15142 for flathead Ford( 59A} Here is a photo of the part.

Tom Just what I was looking for. I got lucky and found a parts store just 5 min away from me that sold this product. Thanks Gerry

40ZephSedan I am trying to put together the usual parts ,Oil pan, Water pumps on this V12 engine. I had bought the engine gasket set at Hersey last year from Earle Brown Jr and just thought I would be using Gasket Sealer just like I did in the past. On reading your reply, it seems that I have to use some type off silicone sealer. I was hoping some of our members would chime in and let me know what they used when their was put together. I am hoping I have not wasted over $200.00 on materials that I no longer need. Thanks

I went to the Auto store last month to buy some sealer. All I could see on the shelves was gasket maker. If this is what is being used, then why did I buy a gasket set.? Gerry

As for the bolt I was looking for I should have explained I thought I had lost it. Sure enough it showed up when I was looking for something else. After inquiring about these washer I decided to try and make my own. Here is what I used and to make 24 of them. 1) I used a Fender washer with the same thickness as the original washer. 2) The middle hole had to I step drilled so the bolt would fit. 3) I used the original washer and made a pattern on the washer 4) Secured the washer with vice grips and using my hand held grinder I cut off what was not needed. After that there was just a little more grinding to make sure the washes fitted just right into it's slot. 5) Instead of just tapping the tabs up, as I was Leary they would break off. I decided to gently heat each tabs before tapping them up. Everything worked out fine

38ShortopConv. My engine is for a 48 Lin Cont. with Hydraulic Lifters I was informed that I would only be allowed so many kb to post in my first message. The 1st photo I posted never indicated what year the engine was. On the same page it showed a photo of the 36-37 engine. Maybe both photos of a engine from 36-37. I will follow your advice on were to install these parts. Thanks, Gerry