Cokekid

As I am doing my rear brakes I noticed the parts book indicates a gasket #1183 is to be installed. The gasket is a ".062 I.D -98 O.D ... 12" thick. I looked into Boos Herrel Catalog and is calls for a Fiber Washer/Gasket .Does it have to be made of Fiber.? Gerry

I had ordered a Carburetor Kit from Boose-Herrel and also ordered the two washers that I need

Went out to the garage this morning to see if I could remove the drum after following all the tips I was given. Took the hammer and started to hit the top of the drum as I was turning it. After about ten hits I noticed the drum a moved forward and after a few more hits the drum came off. Appreciated all the tips from the forum members who helped me getting the drums off. Gerry

38ShortopConv If you go back and look at a posting of the instructions they send with the Puller you we see at the bottom it says to use two use two 1 1/8" wrenches. I phoned the company and was talking to Casey, who is now running the company and he gave me these tips 1) Take a 3 to 5 lb hammer and hit the hub hard while turning the drum, But don't hit the grove area. 2 Spray the hub area with any loosing solvent. 3) Heat the Hub up and let it cool down for about 1 hour. 4) Put the tool back on and then hit the Thrust bolt a couple of times. I am going to do this tomorrow. Let you know what happens. 0

38ShortopConv I was going to do this. I was wondering if I could use a air gun.? As it's not easy to hold one wrench while turning the other wrench.

Gave it another try and was able to remove one drum. I am guessing there wasn't 125 psi applied. The other side is not willing to come off, so I applied pressure as much as I could then sprayed the drum with BLAST OFF and will leave it until tomorrow.

Tom, I agree to try and keep the car as original as possible but some parts just need to be replace. Like my rear break shoes. I took the Hub puller out to the garage to use it to remove the rear drums. I followed the directions and nothing is happening. Here is a photo of the puller with the Thurst Bolt screwed in as far as it will go. Am I doing something wrong.? Gerry

Mssr. Bwatoe Received the Hub Puller and I am going to give it a try tomorrow.

I am not willing to take a chance to try various pullers, which could possibly cause me further problem. So I am going to just go ahead and buy the Hub Puller from Vintage Precision. Gerry

Tom I phoned Brattons and they are not answering. I sent them a email asking about their puller. I am waiting for a reply. Seeing you pointed out that the puller maybe used more often I may just have to bite the bullet and pay the price for one of them 40ZephSedan. The puller you showed from Vintage Precision looks great but as Tom said the exchange rate is still the problem. I am not to sure I would be brave enough to use the your setup as I may end up damaging the axel. JFranklin I don't know anyone in the Ford A club

Tom, I am going to phone Brattons tomorrow to discuss if any of these tools will work for me. Let you know what they say. Gerry

I am trying to replace my rear brake cylinders and to do this I understand you need a Hub Puller. The K R Wilson seems to be the choice of everyone but when I phoned Winfield Tools Works and talked to them about shipping the the price started at $150,00 plus shipping $54.65 = $204.65 US. After I do the conversion to Cdn. Dollars', It works out to be $256.75 Cdn. By any chance is there another puller I can possible use.? Gerry

19tom40 I checked the numbers on the bowels and they both have 06H on one side and 1" on the other side. I will order the number you suggested.

carbking That's the info I was looking for.

chris, Not right now. If I change my mind I will let you know.

19tom40 I think you are correct. When searching the web I kept getting different results saying it was for a earlier model. I think as you said, it had to do with the base with mine having four hole. I have sent a email to Daytona Parts for a kit for this Carburetor.

I should of also asked what year of car will are for. Gerry

I have two of these and one has a three hole base while the other has a four hole base. Why the difference.? Gerry

19tom40 Once again you have come to my rescue. I have a store near me called Brafasco and they had the parts. Gerry

I have looked in the parts book for the size nut that is used in order to bolt down these two parts. Can someone tell me what page there on or the size to buy. Gerry

Tom O'D Went to Carquest this morning and they were unable to help.

Ken. The Master Cylinder Kit has already been installed and the cylinder is working. I only need the two washers which go on the back end of the cylinder to be able to finish the job. Craig is selling the Cylinder at $85.00, Which works out to be $110. Cdn and this doesn't including shipping.

Tom O.D I will keep trying to by the two gaskets up here in Canada, as the US CONVERSION-RATE plus US shipping would probably come to $15:00 Cdn I may just have to bite the bullet and order them. Gerry

Larry, I solved my problem were the rubber piece goes. I found another kit and it had a parts diagram in it. Tom O'D I am trying to buy the washers from some of our auto suppliers, but for now I am having no luck..

Larry, I understand we are talking about the the two parts that are stated as copper washers that are listed in the parts book. What I still don't understand is how come I had a rubber gasket attached were a copper gasket should be and why was there one in the kit. The Master cylinder made by Wagner in the USA. I think I will follow the parts manual. So I'm off to buy the Copper Gaskets. Thanks for your help. Gerry