drbob78 Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Factory manual gives no help in removing and replacing a turn signal switch. Any hints would help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 (edited) You will need to remove the steering wheel and turn signal canceling cam, then just take the phillips screws out of the switch that hold it in the column, remove the turn signal lever, unplug the switch at the base of the column under the dash, and pull the switch straight up until the wiring harness clears the column. You will need to remove the horn bar to get to the big nut that holds on the steering wheel, then remove the nut and remove the wheel with a steering wheel puller. When you go back with the wheel be sure to install it clocked at the same position on the shaft as it was when you removed it. This is an easy job, really shouldn't take longer than a half hour. The 69 is much more difficult due to the locking plate for the antitheft column which must be removed. Edited August 9, 2018 by Seafoam65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hazdaz Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 I bought a universal steering wheel puller and I believe it wasn't universal enough. Am I correct in thinking I need the kind with the "claws"? When you take the horn cover off and the hex bolt, there are no screws to can thread into to push the wheel out. That tells me you can't use the typical kind you see online that are essentially 3 bolts. Am I right on that assumption? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 (edited) What year model are you talking about? All sixties and seventies steering wheels have two threaded holes in them to screw the puller bolts into. The steering wheels that require a "Hook" tool came out with the air bags in 1990. 60's and 70's steering wheel pullers utilize two slotted bars with long bolts through them to screw in to the wheel, and a large center bolt that threads through the center between the slotted bars that is tightened up against the steering wheel shaft to push the steering wheel off the shaft. On the wood steering wheels on the early Rivieras the two threaded holes are in the hub that the steering wheel bolts to. In the standard wheels, the threaded holes are in the center of the steering wheel. Edited August 10, 2018 by Seafoam65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hazdaz Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 It's a '64. See attached image. There are 4 slotted rivets that hold the white gasket down. I originally thought I'd have to drill those out, but someone said you don't need to. I've tried applying some pressure from behind the wheel in the hopes it would at least move, but nothing. I've already sprayed some penetrating fluid to loosen any possible rust on the spline. The manual is terrible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 (edited) Those are not slotted rivets! Those are bolts with a "clutch" head. When you screw them out, and remove the horn contact, the threaded holes in the steering wheel are beneath the horn contact. There are "clutch " head screwdrivers that you can buy, but usually you can use a flat blade screwdriver with the correct width blade to wedge into the slots. In your picture, to the right of the shaft below the horn contact, the edge of one of the steering wheel puller threaded holes in the wheel is peeking out where you can see it. You've got to remove those four clutch head bolts first, then remove the horn contact, thread the two small puller bolts into the two holes in the wheel, then tighten up the big center steering wheel puller bolt into the center of the shaft, and keep tightening till the wheel pops off. Make sure you thread the small bolts into the steering wheel holes as far as they will go so you don't pull the threads out of the holes when you tighten the big center bolt against the shaft. Edited August 10, 2018 by Seafoam65 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hazdaz Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Wow, I've never seen clutch head bolts before. The faded out image in the manual says 4 rivets so I assumed those were some funky '60s era rivets I've never seen before. I ran out of daylight, but I did get the wheel off real easy. I'll try the rest this weekend. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hazdaz Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 16 minutes ago, NC68Riviera said: Your posting says 68 Riviera, not 64, this the confusion on the part of individuals trying to assist. That's my fault. I didn't mean to commandeer this thread but I was literally working on this same exact thing this afternoon. The OP's car is a '68. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Wow, I've never seen clutch head bolts before. Then you have never owned an early Chevrolet pickup. Almost every fastener in an early Chevy (but not GMC) truck is clutch head type into the middle sixties. I forgot about these on the horn contact. But I knew what they were and just used my clutch head screwdriver to remove them, so it wasn't that memorable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drbob78 Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Steering wheel is a snap. The real task is getting the new switch wiring and connectors threaded through the steering column "casings". Looks like I have to take the whole column apart. Is that correct on a 68 Riv?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 No No! The wires thread down through the column very easily. Once the steering wheel is off it is a simple job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 (edited) The wire ribbon on the new switch will not feed down the steering column with the lower connector attached ! I disconnected the lower connector on the new switch wire ribbon after carefully making a diagram of all the pin locations, with appropriate wire colors.(...see shop manual ). The pins can be removed from the connector using the tip of an Exacto blade and bending the small tang that locks them into the circular connector. Then the new wire ribbon was pulled down through the steering column easily by securely taping it to the old wire ribbon. after the switch portion was cut off. Once the new switch wire ribbon was fed down through the steering column, the connector pins were then reinserted into the plug in column connector at the bottom of the column. The new switch was secured at the top of the column with the same screws removed from the old switch, and the hazard warning actuator was instaleed. The turn signal arm was installed and the switch was tested before replacing the cancelling cam, steering wheel, and horn bar. Clean all the horn contacts while you have it apart. . . . trust this makes the replacement a little easier ! Edited August 11, 2018 by 68RIVGS (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC1968Riviera Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 On 8/11/2018 at 12:02 PM, 68RIVGS said: The wire ribbon on the new switch will not feed down the steering column with the lower connector attached ! I sure wish I had read this prior to last Saturday. I just about destroyed my new turn signal harness getting it to feed through the steering column bowl! A friend in Norway recommended your method after I told him of my troubles and I had to hit myself in the forehead after realizing how much time, effort and frustration I could have saved myself, not to mention almost having Heat Exhaustion working in almost 100 degree heat! Argghhhhh....... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 . . . at least you'll know for the next time Mike !! ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobileparts Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 If any of you need the 1967 - 1968 Buick RIVIERA Turn Signal Switch with cornering lights --- I have TWO (2) N.O.S. +++++ G M ++++++ remaining........... in the box......... You are welcome to call me ---Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935........ West Hempstead, New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC1968Riviera Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 On 8/14/2018 at 6:32 PM, 68RIVGS said: . . . at least you'll know for the next time Mike !! ? Randy, I ordered a turn signal switch from Lectric Limited and took the lower connector off of the harness as you and others suggested. I had to split the 8 wires into two groups of 4 to get them to snake through the tilt collar. With the aid of a small flat metal ruler I finally cleared the collar and snaked the wires down the column. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC1968Riviera Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 1 hour ago, mobileparts said: If any of you need the 1967 - 1968 Buick RIVIERA Turn Signal Switch with cornering lights --- I have TWO (2) N.O.S. +++++ G M ++++++ remaining........... in the box......... You are welcome to call me ---Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935........ West Hempstead, New York Wish you had posted this earlier! How much are you asking for your switches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 . . . you have to call Craig at the number he specified Mike. He prefers using the telephone for part transactions ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobileparts Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 I have posted these through the years -- here in the Buick section of the AACA, on the V8 Buick Forum, and on the Team Buick Forum....... The deal is -- my friend Mark needed one a decade ago; I am a Delco Distributor, so I found 7 of them around the country that were selling ---- back then --- for anywhere from $ 125 to $ 775.......... (yeah, that outfit -- in California was "OUT OF CONTROL")........ So, I bought, at the time, the two of them that were under $175 --- one went to Mark and the other, I sold about a year later......... Now, that I was out, I wanted 1 for "back in stock" !!!!!!!!!!! ---- and I bought 3 more -- because the price is right......... That being said, I sold 1 of those ---- and have 2 remaining --- N.O.S. in the G M BOX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you want the best price ---- CALL ME -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935........... I don't have a computer -- I have to go to the library to use it...... It is so much easier to speak and talk to one another ----- we haven't lost that altogether in the world today, have we???? At least, NOT in OUR generation, I think !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yours, Craig....... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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