Steelbreeze Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Does this look correct? All the info I have shows one lead on the interrupter switch and as in the picture mine has two. This transmission was thoroughly rebuilt before I obtained the car so I have no idea if this was replaced or is what they removed and reinstalled. Does anyone have any idea if this is correct and if so what does the other lead connect to? The leads with the clips do not seem like a brake light type switch. I've looked around in the forum for a couple days and can't find the info I need. Thanx once again. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 You couldn't have looked very hard. I went to the top of the page, did a search for Fluid Drive wiring harness and this was the very first post it linked to. It contains 2 different wiring diagrams and links to more information. It took less than 1 minute. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/291179-fluid-drive-harness-diagram-needed/#comment-1587185 If you scroll down to post #13 you will see the simpler wiring diagram of the transmission controls only. It shows 2 wires to the interrupter switch. One to the governor, the other to the coil by way of a resistor. This resistor is found in a small box on the air filter strut on 49 up, somewhere else on earlier models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 I see you have 1 wire cut off, wonder where it goes? It would pay you to trace all the wires and see that they match the wiring diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) That wire is ours. We have installed she aftermarket wiring harness and my mechanic ran the second write just in case it was needed. According to all the wiring diagrams I have found the interrupter switch only utilizes 1 wire. The fluid drive harness, which is separate on its own, we are making ourselves since I finally found the correct carburetor. Edited July 12, 2017 by Steelbreeze Wrong word (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Rusty_OToole said: You couldn't have looked very hard. I went to the top of the page, did a search for Fluid Drive wiring harness and this was the very first post it linked to. It contains 2 different wiring diagrams and links to more information. It took less than 1 minute. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/291179-fluid-drive-harness-diagram-needed/#comment-1587185 If you scroll down to post #13 you will see the simpler wiring diagram of the transmission controls only. It shows 2 wires to the interrupter switch. One to the governor, the other to the coil by way of a resistor. This resistor is found in a small box on the air filter strut on 49 up, somewhere else on earlier models. Yes these are the diagrams I am going by in my other thread, but the one you stated with the 2-wire set up is for the M6. Mine is the M5. And my year is 47. So my relay is in the fender well. And the interrupter that came on the car is 2-wire and the correct diagrams show 1-wire. Edited July 12, 2017 by Steelbreeze (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) So, someone put in the wrong interrupter? Or did they change to a newer transmission? This suggests the original 1 wire job grounded the circuit while the newer one completed the circuit. If this theory is correct the 2 wire should work if you ground the other side. I would have to see both wiring diagrams to be sure. It would be better to use the correct interrupter if you can get one. Edited July 12, 2017 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 4 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said: So, someone put in the wrong interrupter? Or did they change to a newer transmission? This suggests the original 1 wire job grounded the circuit while the newer one completed the circuit. If this theory is correct the 2 wire should work if you ground the other side. I would have to see both wiring diagrams to be sure. It would be better to use the correct interrupter if you can get one. You pointed out the 2-wire diagram and I posted the 1-wire diagram. So that should be both of them. I also believe they are both in my old thread that you pointed out earlier when you said I must not have looked very hard. The one you referenced was actually my posting. I think it has the complete wiring diagram and not just for the fluid drive. I am not sure about the part if it was replaced with the wrong one as I stated in this original post, the original tranny was rebuilt before I acquired the vehicle. The previous owner said he had the engine and tranny rebuilt with "all new parts". Whatever that means. LOL Thanx for the help and info if you figure it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 It sounds like the guy who rebuilt the trans used the wrong switch. Is there any chance he still has the old one? Or that you could get the correct switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 4 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said: It sounds like the guy who rebuilt the trans used the wrong switch. Is there any chance he still has the old one? Or that you could get the correct switch? nope. The only thing I ever found out about the rebuilder is that it was a shop in Miami. And the best timeline I have is that it was done around 5 years ago. My only hope it to find one here, on EBay or Andy Bernbaum. My mechanic was thinking the same as you that we'd just ground the other post but I'm not a big fan of guesswork and my thought is that it is already self grounded through its housing. Did you have a chance to go over the wiring diagrams? I'll start my search for a single pole interrupter switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 That's the wrong2 wire interrupter switch for as you already know. The 1946-48 M-5 transmission uses a single threaded stud interrupter switch..... .MoPar Part # 1113105 The 1949-53 M-6 transmission cars use a two terminal interrupter switch. The two terminal switch shown above is not even the correct one for the 1949-53 M-6 transmissions....I don't even know what it's for. Shown below is a 1948 Chrysler M-5 transmission with the correct interrupter switch on top of the trans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 These are pictures of the complete harness section that does the interior and the 3 different operations of the fluid drive. As in kickdown mode. 3rd speed and 4th speed operations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 19 minutes ago, c49er said: That's the wrong2 wire interrupter switch for as you already know. The 1946-48 M-5 transmission uses a single threaded stud interrupter switch..... .MoPar Part # 1113105 The 1949-53 M-6 transmission cars use a two terminal interrupter switch. The two terminal switch shown above is not even the correct one for the 1949-53 M-6 transmissions....I don't even know what it's for. Shown below is a 1948 Chrysler M-5 transmission with the correct interrupter switch on top of the trans. That was my thoughts. To me it looks like a brake light switch. But who knows. Now I just have to find someone selling the correct interrupter switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 (edited) Yes that switch you have shown does kinda look like a brake light switch except a BL sw is 1/8" pipe thread usually and the M-6 two terminal switch is like 1/2" thread. I think it's a back up light switch for the trans. Edited July 14, 2017 by c49er (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Check these four out for sale......pretty pricey: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XMoPar+1113105.TRS5&_nkw=MoPar+1113105&_sacat=0 Here is one that sold a couple of months ago on eBay a lot cheaper: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1946-1948-Chrysler-Neutral-Safety-Switch-1113105-1946-1948-DeSoto-Switch-/142368087523?vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 The one that sold is listed as a neutral safety switch which mine does look like and what my mechanic thought it was. The interrupters are different. I wish I could use the neutral safety switch but don't believe they do the same operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 18 hours ago, Steelbreeze said: The one that sold is listed as a neutral safety switch which mine does look like and what my mechanic thought it was. The interrupters are different. I wish I could use the neutral safety switch but don't believe they do the same operation. I searched on MoPar Part # 1113105, which C49er posted was the correct interrupter for 1946-48 M-5 transmission. All of those auctions claimed the item advertised was the part # 1113105. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 (edited) Thanx. I saw that also but it's odd that the one that was sold was listed as a neutral safety switch. Most neutral safety stitches look like mine with 2 leads instead of one Edited July 16, 2017 by Steelbreeze Wrong word (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 If anyone has first hand experience with this as far as knowing if the 2 prong switch in miner is correct or if there is a part number located on the switch, please let met know if mine can still be correct and possibly one prong is simply grounded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 The Single terminal interrupter switch is correct for 1946-48 chrysler M-5 transmissions. I assure you this is correct!!!!!! I have worked many many of the 1946-48 Chryslers and own several of these cars from Royals to Town and Country's. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Thanx. That's what I needed to know. I just wanted to make sure this one wont work before buying another. This is what came on the car and I wasn't around when the tranny was rebuilt and reassembled Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 (edited) I am still in need of the correct interrupter switch for my M5 tranny. I can't afford the one on eBay. Way outta my price range. If anyone knows of one available please let met know. Edited August 21, 2017 by Steelbreeze Wrong word (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46windsir Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 I just wanted to see if you had any luck getting the car running on the 12v wiring conversion, I will be running into the same problem myself . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelbreeze Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 On 2/8/2018 at 8:35 PM, 46windsir said: I just wanted to see if you had any luck getting the car running on the 12v wiring conversion, I will be running into the same problem myself . The car starts and runs but I still haven't completed getting it on the road. No issues so far other than o was told a voltage reducer will not work for the clock. Someone wrote to me that they could convert it for around 80 bucks but I can't find that correspondence. Good luck and let me know if I can help. We also installed a modern wiring harness with fuse terminal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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