Jump to content

Model 62 Rear Axle oil leak


maok

Recommended Posts

G'day all,

 

It is a very slow oil leak that needs addressing from the rear axle.

 

The manual describes a oil seal leather but I cannot work out what bolt/nut tightens this seal?

 

Im thinking if I simply nip a nut/bolt slightly tighter it may fix the oil leak. Probably wishful thinking.

 

Keep smiling,

 

Moe

 

 

post-154764-0-09865900-1453771408_thumb.

post-154764-0-40071300-1453771429_thumb.

post-154764-0-65694000-1453771454_thumb.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, Axle looks the same as a model 52. The original seal will be made of leather or felt, I don't think tightening up anything will work, it is more likely to change the pinion bearing preload. If you have never set up a differential before, then I recommend you talk to a mechanic who has done some. Changing the seal is probably not as easy as it looks, I did my rear axle 30+ years ago and seem to remember having to strip the whole lot out to change the seal. If you decide to do the job, upgrade to a modern type of rubber seal even if it means some machining or sleeving to fit the new type.

Good luck

Viv W.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, time to learn about the pinion bearings and oil seal and how to set up the bearings with correct pre-load. A good clean-out and ensuring the pinion shaft is smooth (polished) will also help the new seal actually seal. You might find it is leaking because the bearings are loose and allowing the pinion to move laterally; a shim may have been damaged or lost, or even not set up correctly. Do it now; the bearings and the pinion may be in danger. No seal will work long term until the bearings are set up correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks gents.

 

I was afraid of that. No, I have never assembled a diff before.

 

I am looking to pass a Dept of Transport inspection and was hoping for an easy solution.

 

Is there a product I can add to the gear oil that may slow or stop the leak that people have tried and it worked?

 

Moe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good point what is your fluid in it ? Did you or someone perhaps put in to light weight of fluid . Yours may take anything from 600 to 1200weight steam oil , which is like stiff honey . To light will not only leak in front ,but also sides into wheel and brake areas .You'll to find from a service manual the correct fluid .

 

 

                           Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunately the Chrysler manual does not state the weight of oil to use.

 

I am not sure what is in it at the moment, however, it does seem fairly heavy weighted oil because the droplet stays on the diff casing for some time before falling.  Im guessing its heavier than the typical diff 80w gear oil.

 

There seems to be differing opinions on what is the best weighted oil to use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My mechanic manual for Dodges and  Grahams says  600 weight for Grahams .  Axles look similar Is there a lower and upper hole ,lowers is level of fluid ,they call grease . Mine was litterly so thick when I checked the level some came out and stopped in mid-air . Had to reach finger in to pull more out for drop-let to continue . This was new, I changed .

 

diff Grah.pdf

Imfo book .pdf

 

Sorry this all I can help .Hope others jump in who are more familiar with these cars

Edited by ArticiferTom (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are only hoping to pass an inspection, how about giving it all a good wipe down and clean just before you set out for the inspection? The leak is probably so slow they won't see anything. But the leak will remain and you should see why it is occurring - probably some lateral movement.

 

The Dodge Brothers Eight Instruction Book just says to use "Fluid Gear Lubricant". I wonder what that was? Probably S.A.E. 250 or S.A.E. 190 would be good substitutes.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What sort of inspection are you working towards? It is a tough one if it expects no oil leaks on older vehicles.

 

You could try cleaning (de-greasing) the entire rear axle and prop shaft to look like it is well maintained and then go for the inspection. The inspector would not then know you have just wiped off an oil leak? Just check the pinion for movement fore and aft and laterally, which is probably why the seal is failing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I would expect it to be a thorough inspection process.

 

Wiping or cleaning it thoroughly would not work because the drip would show up while in the inspection process. I would be extremely lucky if the inspector does not notice it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Changed the oil to Penrite T250 axle oil which Penrite claim to be similar a weight to the old 600w oil.

 

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=14&id_subcateg=70&id_products=83

 

And about 200ml of the Lucas oil stabilizer.

 

http://www.lucasoil.com.au/products/engine-oil-additives

 

No leaks in 24 hours so far. Fingers and toes crossed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...