Car failed smog test......badly!

[doity]

Hi, my 88' with 68k just failed the OR. smog test previous to registration. I had smogged it 2 years back and it passed with flying colors. The lady at the DEQ station told me that the CO was so high that it shut down her station

The reading was close to 8 and she told me that passing was 1 or below. I am not sure if that is a percentage or ppm? Anyway, I did a full tune-up last year and there are no "check engine" light that comes on, but on occasion the CRT will give the message about engine controls which triggers the yellow light on the dash but this goes off right away.

My mechanic told me that he will start with fuel pressure and go from there, with the last thing to check being the cat. converter. He did notice a slight surge at idle with the tach going between 700-750 rpm at a stop while in Park.

Does anyone have any suggestions and or experience with the same symptoms? The car does drive great but I have noticed a strong exhaust smell at stops for the last year or so which is somewhat embarrassing as I live in a somewhat affluent area and everyone drives Mercedes and BMW's

Thanks in advance for any tips and I will keep everyone up to date on my progress or lack thereof.

thanks,

doity

[Ronnie]

Part of your tune up should have been replacing the oxygen sensor. You should check t see if any codes are stored in the ECM. Report any codes you find back here.

How To Access Trouble Codes - '88 & '89 Models*-*ReattaOwner.com

[stealthbob]

I would have to agree with the O2 sensor....for me it's always the place to start when you have a failed test. That and the Cat because it could be fouled now from a poor burn caused by a bad O2 sensor.

[NCReatta]

My solution would be to move somewhere else that doesn't require a smog test.

[padgett]

"Rotten eggs" smell (hydrogen sulphide) is usually from too rich a mixture. Failing O2 could cetainly cause that.

Suspect ECM code 13, 44, or 45 and the BLM is probably maxed.

Have also seen a bad coolant temperature sensor cause an overrich mixture but usually is accomanied by a rough idle, poor performance, and terrible MPG.

[Blue90]

Are you in Lake Oswego?

[doity]

Part of your tune up should have been replacing the oxygen sensor. You should check t see if any codes are stored in the ECM. Report any codes you find back here.

How To Access Trouble Codes - '88 & '89 Models*-*ReattaOwner.com

OK Ronnie, here are the codes I got:

Current - B447

History-

E042

E044

B420

B446

B552

C553

Also, here are the scores from the smog test:

HC - 469

CO - 8.56

[Ronnie]

Here are the BCM (Bxxx) codes

BCM & CRT Diagnostic Codes*-*ReattaOwner.com

And here are the ECM (Exxx) codes:

ECM Diagnostic Codes*-*ReattaOwner.com

Probably the most important one you list concerning the emissions test is the E044- Lean Exhaust Signal. It points to the oxygen sensor possibly being defective. Changing the O2 sensor would be my first step. It is relatively cheap and easy to change. Most parts stores will loan you a wrench designed just for changing the O2 sensor at no charge.

[padgett]

History-

E042 - EST, usually wiring from ICM to ECM, do not see it often

E044 - O2 sensor

B420 - Relay circuits

B446 - a/c low on freon

B552 - batttery changed

C553 - battery changed

I suggest clearing all the codes (can use diagnostics except for 446) and see what comes back.

Might want to monitor "cross counts" ED18 and "BLM" ED20 while driving. Suspect first will be low (under 10) and the second high (over 135).

[doity]

Hi all, it was both the O2 sensor and the PCV valve. Both were totally shot. The O2 sensor basically fell apart in the mechanics hands after he removed it. Anyway, a new problem came up that is unrelated. I noticed that the trunk lock was inoperative from outside (but not from the switch inside) and checked the fuses. The number 2 fuse was out. I bought some new 20 amp fuses and when I tried to replace it I got a spark from the fuse box. It melted the fuse instantly. Anything that I should be checking? This is the same fuse that controls the courtesy lights, etc.

thanks

doity

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

There's a ton of things powered by that fuse.

The only what might be an "expected failure point" is a splice under the drivers seat in the orange wires that power the power door lock switches, door courtesy lights, power mirrors, trunk lock release etc. Ever had a problem with water intrusion?

Doubt it would be a splice on the ground side under the passenger's seat as a short there should not cause the fuse to blow, but make lights stay on all the time or doors lock/unlock at random etc.

[doity]

Hi Mc_Reatta,

So you think that I should check that point under the drivers seat? Is it visible or do I have to remove anything? I do remember that there is a set of wires down there but just assumed that they were for the power seats. I do have some water intrusion when I use the power wash so maybe that is what caused it? I tried to fix the problem with the rubber tubing behind the window seals and that helped but I still have a bit of water come in when using the drive-through washes. Do you think it is corrosion or should I be looking for something else?

thanks

doity

[Guest spiering.lucas]

Wow I am having identical problems with my 1990 reatta. The outside trunk lock doesn't work nor do the dome light, courtesy lights or electric door locks. I am also having a very strong exhaust smell and an E044 code amongst a few others stored in my ecm. My question is what if the O2 sensor is replaced and this problem with running rich/lean still occurs? My car runs like a million buck but I have to say I am getting less then satisfactory MPG at about 225 miles from a full tank ... I would also like my courtesy functions to work. Which fuse are you talking about and on which side fuse panel is it located. Also what wires under the drivers seat are you referring to and what can I do to fix the problem? As for the weather seals leaking on the Reattas I don't think there is a car out there that doesn't leak a little bit. They did a poor job designing this aspect of the vehicle. I should I know. I live in Washington state where it rains 11 months out of the year and when it rains it pours haha. Any help is super appreciated guys and gals. Thank you in advance.

[Ronnie]

Hi Mc_Reatta,

So you think that I should check that point under the drivers seat? Is it visible or do I have to remove anything? I do remember that there is a set of wires down there but just assumed that they were for the power seats. I do have some water intrusion when I use the power wash so maybe that is what caused it? I tried to fix the problem with the rubber tubing behind the window seals and that helped but I still have a bit of water come in when using the drive-through washes. Do you think it is corrosion or should I be looking for something else?

thanks

doity

The wire splices are under the carpet on both sides of the car. You must remove the seats and sill plates to get access to the wires. The orange wires are under the drivers seat and that's where you should look first. They supply electrical power to a lot of devices in your car. They are hot anytime the key is turned to the run position.

The ground wires for the devices are under the carpet on the passenger side. Most devices on the Reatta are controlled on the ground side of the circuit.

Look for splice where the wires come together under the seats. Use solder and shrink tubing to repair if you find a problem.

[Ronnie]

... I am also having a very strong exhaust smell and an E044 code amongst a few others stored in my ecm. My question is what if the O2 sensor is replaced and this problem with running rich/lean still occurs? My car runs like a million buck but I have to say I am getting less then satisfactory MPG at about 225 miles from a full tank ... .

If you have not replaced your O2 sensor you should do so. Think of it like any other tuneup item that should be replaced on a routine basis.

See my last post concerning your wiring issues.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Doity, troubleshooting your problem is going to be a PITA and or cause the destruction of several fuses to diagnose easily.

According to the diagram for fuse 2 with the exception of the fuel door release solenoid (controlled thru a switch), all of the items it powers are light bulbs, relays, or switches. These tend to fail in an open state which would not cause the fuse to blow. The fact that yours is blowing means either one of these has failed in an unusual shorted mode, or there is a short to ground somewhere in the wiring of all these items.

You can remove the drivers seat, pull up the carpet and pad, open the wire channel and inspect the splices and see if any wires have come loose and is touching the body or another wire. (Most likely an orange wire)

Or the other option is to replace fuse 2 with a trouble light and pull each item that is powered via that fuse until and in hopes that the light goes out. This would require you remove or unplug alot of items that would require the door panels coming off, the console cover removal to get at the relay panel, and some items in the trunk as well. If the light never goes out, then it tells you that the problem is not that an item failed in a shorted state, but that you have a short in the wiring somewhere. Again the most likely spot is the splices under the seats, but could be anywhere else as well.

I'll let you pick your own poison based on your feelings of what avenue you would rather pursue based on your knowledge of your car's history and what type of tear down of the interior you want to undertake.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

S.lucas, in a 90 the fuse panel is on the driver's side of the center console. Check the 20 amp body fuse #2. If it is blown replace and see if it blows again. If so follow recommendations for doity.

If it is OK, then I would suspect a splice in the ground circuits under the passenger's seat have come undone and need to be repaired. (Most likely the black wires with the white stripe.)

If the fuse was blown and replacing it doesn't result in another blown fuse, check all the lights and functions of the circuit and see what isn't working. Then trouble shoot that item.

[Guest spiering.lucas]

Thanks all. I'm gonna go check everything right now!

[Guest spiering.lucas]

Alright quick question. Under both seats there are two wires that come up out of the carpet, Orange wire and black wire. They both go into what looks like a white plastic plug with a black piece of rubber that covers the plug. #1 what is this for? Its not plugged into anything and there is nothing that appears to be unplugged. #2 On my car under the passenger side the orange wire has been cut and is no longer connected to this white plug. Also the inside of the plug when the rubber cover is removed appears to be severely corroded.

O BTW my fuse #2 20 amp is GOOD. ???? Next step??

[Guest spiering.lucas]

I tested the Fuse also and it is getting power.

[padgett]

Suspect that is for the 16ways and you have std seats.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

See middle suggestion in my earlier post for what to do if fuse was good.

As Padgett commented, there is an unused connector under the seats when 16 ways have not been installed.

The presence of corrosion on that connector under the passenger seat makes me feel even more strongly that you will find damaged splices on that side under the carpet.

You can refer to this guide on Ronnie's site for some more info. The post is for an 89, but I think most of the differences for 90s and verts are on the driver's side. Believe the wires for lights, locks, keyless entry etc, will be the same for all: ( no keyless in 88 of course)

Circuit Color Codes For Floor Splices - '89*-*ReattaOwner.com

Edited August 25, 2011 by Mc_Reatta (see edit history)

[Guest spiering.lucas]

Alright well I pulled out the passenger seat and found a bunch of wires that were heavily coroded. I replaced the wires but it didn't fix my door locks my anti theft system or my courtesy lights. What's next?!

[Ronnie]

Alright well I pulled out the passenger seat and found a bunch of wires that were heavily coroded. I replaced the wires but it didn't fix my door locks my anti theft system or my courtesy lights. What's next?!

Remove the bulb from the dome light. Test the terminals to see if you have 12 volts to a good ground (not the other terminal) . One should have 12 volts on it all the time. Does it? Edited August 26, 2011 by Ronnie (see edit history)

[Guest spiering.lucas]

Yup both sides have twelve volts constant. Next?

[Ronnie]

Replace the bulb in the dome light with a bulb that you know is good. Get in the car and shut the door. Slide the instrument panel dimmer on the headlight switch all the way to the right until you feel it click. That should turn on the courtesy lights including the dome light. Does it?

[Guest spiering.lucas]

No

[Ronnie]

Go into on-board diagnostics >> BCM outputs >> Select output B004 (courtesy light relay). The BCM will start switching the courtesy light relay on and off. You should hear the relay clicking and you should also see the BCM alternating from LO to HI. Do You?

Edited August 26, 2011 by Ronnie (see edit history)

[Guest spiering.lucas]

Well see there in lies another problem of mine. My car will only go into diagnostics mode when it feels like it. Right now I'm am not having any luck with it. It acts like it's going to start to enter DM and all the dash lights come on, and then nothing. Try again and same results. I have tried a dozen times now and no results. Another sideffect is if I reset the trip meter. Turn the key off and then back on the trip meter returns to it's previously retained mileage.

[Ronnie]

Well... you should hear the relay click when you attempt to turn the courtesy lights on and off with the dimmer slider as you did before. Can you hear it click?

[Guest spiering.lucas]

No

[Ronnie]

Since you are having problems with accessing diagnostics the BCM might be bad but it is hard to say for sure. Do you have a spare you can try?

When you open a door or slide the dimmer all the way to the right, the BCM should ground the courtesy light relay that grounds the courtesy lights via a purple wire with a yellow stripe that runs from the courtesy light relay to a group of wires, spliced together, under the passenger seat.

If you happen to still have the passenger seat out you could ground that purple/yellow wire and all the courtesy lights should come on. The lights are controlled on the ground side of circuit. As I said before the lights should have power going to them all the time. Did you check that splice while you had the seat out?

[Guest spiering.lucas]

Well when I had the seat out I found that the group of 6 black wires with white stripes which I was lead to beleive where ground wires was severely corroded so I cut out the corroded parts and replaced the sections of wire. I also found 5 other wire splices that where severely corroded so I replaced those sections of wire as well and reconnected them. The other colors I remember were three thick pink wires going to one pink wire. Two grey wires going to two grey wires. A white wire going to a white wire and a light green wire. Other then That the rest of the wires were good. And no I don't have a spare BCM.

[Guest spiering.lucas]

I'll add that after I fixed all these connections it didn't fix any of my issues, door locks, courtesy lights, power windows and trunk lock. None of them work still.

[Ronnie]

Since you are having problems with accessing diagnostics the BCM might be bad but it is hard to say for sure. Do you have a spare you can try?

When you open a door or slide the dimmer all the way to the right, the BCM should ground the courtesy light relay that grounds the courtesy lights via a purple wire with a yellow stripe that runs from the courtesy light relay to a group of wires, spliced together, under the passenger seat.

If you happen to still have the passenger seat out you could ground that purple/yellow wire and all the courtesy lights should come on. The lights are controlled on the ground side of circuit. As I said before the lights should have power going to them all the time. Did you check that splice while you had the seat out?

Well when I had the seat out I found that the group of 6 black wires with white stripes which I was lead to beleive where ground wires was severely corroded so I cut out the corroded parts and replaced the sections of wire. I also found 5 other wire splices that where severely corroded so I replaced those sections of wire as well and reconnected them. The other colors I remember were three thick pink wires going to one pink wire. Two grey wires going to two grey wires. A white wire going to a white wire and a light green wire. Other then That the rest of the wires were good. And no I don't have a spare BCM.

I didn't notice that you had a '90 model. I was looking in the '89 FSM instead of the '90. The color of the wire that controls (grounds) the courtesy lights on a '90 model is Dark Blue with a White stripe (not purple/yellow). everything else I said applies to your '90 model.

If you are certain those wires are in good condition there is a good chance the BCM is bad. I know of no way to troubleshoot the BCM other than replacing it and see if everything starts working.

-------------

It's a good idea to add the model of your Reatta, (and any other relative information), to your signature line. It will make it easier for us to help answer your questions without repeatedly asking you about the specific model you own.

Click "User CP" in the menu at the top of this page and scroll down to "Edit Signature"

Thanks!

Edited August 26, 2011 by Ronnie (see edit history)

[padgett]

It is likely that the mess under the seat took out some other components.

The diagnostics flashing all of the lights then everything goes blank does sound like a BCM - the HVAC panel is triggering and the IPC is testing itself, the rest comes from the BCM. OTOH the dash is working properly otherwise which is also a function of the BCM.

Has the BCM been changed before ? Are you certain it has the original PROMs ?

BTW this really should be in its own thread unless you are having trouble passing a smog test - moderator ?

[Ronnie]

Hi all, it was both the O2 sensor and the PCV valve. Both were totally shot. The O2 sensor basically fell apart in the mechanics hands after he removed it. Anyway, a new problem came up that is unrelated. I noticed that the trunk lock was inoperative from outside (but not from the switch inside) and checked the fuses...

doity

... BTW this really should be in its own thread unless you are having trouble passing a smog test - moderator ?

I agree that a new post should have been started but... The original poster was the first one to go off topic. His issue with trouble passing a smog test appears to be resolved so he decided to talk about trunk locks.

[Ronnie]

I should add that I didn't mean to step on any toes. I was just trying to help someone with a problem.

[padgett]

As all of us do, it just helps the archives to have a meaningful title.

[Guest spiering.lucas]

Ronnie if you look under my username Spiering.Lucas you will see it says Reattadriftwood90. But your right I'll add it to my signature. Thanks for all your help btw, I will continue to explore the problem.

I have had this car for 8 months. I am not certain if the bcm is original or not.

I will start a new thread with this topic. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for the help.