Guest Brad Donaldson Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Okay I want to know how can i remove the transmission and replace the clutch ive never worked on a car this old theirs no drive shaft that iam use to theirs a tube from axle to a carrier bearing and another tube from their to trans that cant be moved back. do i have to pull the motor with trans ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Removing the clutch on any straight 8 Buick is one of the most difficult jobs there is. A royal pain.The usual procedure is to move the rear end and torque tube (the driveshaft is inside that) back. There are lots of ways to do that, but usually it is necessary to disassemble nearly the entire rear suspension.Once the torque tube is out of the way, it is a very straightforward job.It is not necessary to pull the engine.Get a copy of the service manual (Bobs Automobilia). It will be a great help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1939_Buick Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 (edited) Some disconnect at the torque ball and then pull the rear end and torque tube with a chain block or what everLook here in post 4 in '39 Team thread Edited April 10, 2015 by 1939_buick speliing (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Just yanking the rear end back with a come -a-long was a common method. But you still had to disconnect a lot of stuff to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Brad Donaldson Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Thanks for all the help. i had the front clip off the car so i just pulled motor and all. i couldn't believe i hade to remove the rear main cap in order to pull the flywheel ..with that being said does anyone recommend a special clutch that may last longer than another brand. I really dont want to ever change this again.thanks again.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Brad, I was able to get mine [1950, but same clutch plate] redone at a local clutch and drive line shop. You will probably not drive enough to ever need to replace it. Where are you? Pictures? Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danhar1960 Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 i couldn't believe i hade to remove the rear main cap in order to pull the flywheel.thanks again..G'day Brad. Just curious as to why you removed the flywheel ?? Does it need machining ?? I've seen 2 that were cracked. Have a good look at it.Did you mark it where you took it off the crankshaft ??? As the bolt pattern is not staggered, it can go back on wrong and you wont see the timing mark. Be careful when reassembling. If you're not sure, check back to save grief later.Danny(Been there, done that ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Just go to the auto parts store and ask for a clutch pack for a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 6 Cyl. Bring your pressure plate with to double check match. Got mine from OReilly Auto for 125.00. Put it in my 1939 Spec. Coupe, Nice! Comes with disc and pressure plate, perfect replacement, other parts in kit for Jeep, find a friend who has one and gift the extras that don't fit. The wavy plate originals aren't worth trying and prolly almost impossible to get redone. Just sayin! Just finished redoing my 39 drive line before winter storage. Yike! No wonder they quit that design after only one year. I feel your pain.They also had thoughout brearing for 21.00. Lemme know if you need part #'s for that or front and rear trans bearings, yes they also have those,which I needed also. Spin trans while out, if noise at all replace bearings now. Ask how I know? Ole Car Bearings has the bearings for rear end. Any other ?'s feel free its still fresh pain!QUOTE=Brad Donaldson;1415940]Thanks for all the help. i had the front clip off the car so i just pulled motor and all. i couldn't believe i hade to remove the rear main cap in order to pull the flywheel ..with that being said does anyone recommend a special clutch that may last longer than another brand. I really dont want to ever change this again.thanks again.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Hi,I have not had to do the clutch on the 37 Roadmonster. But I have to say, it looks like a bast%&* job. I think I would likely pull the clip rather than work under the car and pull the rear end, work under the car to pull the tranny and bell housing, in short, work under the car to do everything. With the clip off I coud also go through the front suspension more easily.Just thinking out loud for the day...OR--hire it out, but that's big bucks.--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Trp,I have done it both ways. For just a clutch job, pulling the rear end is actually easiest way to go.However, if you are going to do engine work too, Pulling the front clip and then the engine & trans is easier.In either case it is a GIANT Pain in the rear and a whole lot of work. Clearly the worse part of working on an old Buick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now