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1977 Skylark Limited S/R


Guest notanova

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Guest notanova

I also posted this in the main General section, but felt it better fit here.

I just got a '77 Skylark S/R with a 305 Automatic, limited slip differential, 2-Door Coupe, factory A/C and Cruise Control, and I'm wondering how much it might be worth.

My VIN is 4C27U7T122213

I'm asking because I want to confirm its value before I modify it, because I'd hate to tear it apart and find out afterwards that it'd be worth more as factory stock. I want to put a 383 stroker and a manual transmission in it but if it's worth more factory stock I'll do a mild restoration (I love factory stock).

Thank you!

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So many factors determine value. Milage? Current overall condition? Interior set up? Location? Rarety in terms of production? And last, but certainly not least, glassy eyed purchaser? What color combo is the car?

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Guest notanova

I'll get some pictures up, but the OD says 89322 so I'm assuming 189322. It's yellow with a white vinyl top, matching yellow rims (steelies) with hubcaps. Interior is in great shape (seats mainly, have to fix some carpet and bolt the seat belt back on). The exterior condition isn't great by any means, but it still looks good, not a lot of visible rust. According to team Buick there were only 3,880 made. Runs and drives great, all electrical works.

I know words really can't tell you but I'll be sure and put up some pictures later

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4C27U7T122213

4 = Buick

C = Skylark S/R

27 = 2-door coupe

U = engine code = 305 V8, 8.5:1 CR, 245 lbs-ft, 145 HP, 2V carb, LG3, by Chevrolet

7 = 1977 model year

T = built at Tarrytown, NY

122213 = sequential number, range was 100,001 to 168,839 for Tarrytown, NY built cars for 1977

Production = 5,023 (the 3,880 is the 1976 production which Team Buick has listed for both 1976 and 1977)

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Guest my3buicks

Not an overly desirable collectable model - if it were a pristine low mileage original I would say leave it alone, but not a high value car so don't think you will hurt it's value at all.

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Guest notanova

Thanks for the info Keith, I agree that's kind of how I felt but I at least wanted to make sure. I might get to have some fun with this after all!

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I suspect that IF the ordering dealer had ordered a Buick V-8, then putting a stroker Chevy motor in it would be "a change", but starting with a Chevy 305, who would know it's not still a 305 (but with a 4bbl) under the hood.

The car looks nice, especially that spiffy console. I'd advise against the manual transmission conversion. It might be "factory based", of sorts, but the clutch linkage on those earlier GM cars was MULTI-piece and not hydraulic. You'd need to fabricate a trans crossmember, among other things, plus getting into the restoration parts industry for all of the clutch linkage items. I suspect the rear axle ratio would need to be changed, too, as it's probably a 2.45 or 2.71 ratio (NOT conducive to good clutch life in "town driving". End result, you'd probably be better off with a stronger THM350 automatic in it. Undercar exhaust might need some "thinking", too, as the '73+ GM intermediate body did not have true dual exhausts under them, which would mean the trans crossmember is not clearance for true dual exhausts.

In addition to the engine upgrade, you'll also need to consider chassis and brake upgrades, too, for a better "package deal". Just find a rear sway bar and matching control arms from a Monte Carlo, for example. IF the car has a "Chevy" rear axle, that can make things easier . . . as in rear disc brakes from a Caprice would be a bolt-on for the Chevy 10-bolt rear axle. Get some "police pads" for the front brakes. Top it off with some KONI shocks and BFG Radial T/A tires (my suggestion and preference) and some repro Buick chrome wheels.

For the 383 stroker, key thing is to NOT get too wild one the camshaft. I think a good short block, topped with some Edelbrock aluminum heads, Street Demo carb on a dual plane intake (the Chevy ZZ3 intake would be good), and a roller cam (about 220 degrees at .050") would give plenty of torque to fry the tires and still run good towards 5500rpm. Like I said, "Who needs to know it's not a 305 4bbl under the hood?"

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

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Guest notanova

Yeah it's probably the best feature about it right now. Also the 305 still has a lot of compression, really wasn't expecting that. Must have really sat since 1991, which the tags indicate

Edit; didn't see the long post until posting my reply. Thank you for the info, that is exactly what I am looking for. I will put it all under advisement and it will be a big influence on my decisions! I can't wait to get into this thing!

Edited by notanova (see edit history)
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Guest notanova

Been racking up a parts list for what I want to do to this car, and starting with the interior luckily I was able to find front floor pans and the carpet (only replacing all of the carpet because of the hole in the driver side floor). This was an Eastern car (made in New York, lived in Michigan, but in Oregon now) so the underside is pretty rusty.

What I absolutely can't find is a parking light lens for the front driver's side. I can find a complete lens & bezel, but not just the plastic lens; anyone know of a good parts source that might have that? None in the junkyards around me.

Otherwise I'm looking to fix the hole in the floor with a new pan and carpet, performance intake & carb, brake booster & master cylinder, headers, radiator & water pump.

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Guest notanova

I have another question about this car. How do I determine what rear axle I have? I'm having trouble finding any stamped numbers in all the rust, and the only tag on the cover just says use only limited slip lubricant. Where are the identification codes supposed to be?

Thank you

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