Cooling/Water Pump question - '64 401

The 50 year old, one-owner needs something new every day. While tending to other needs in getting the Wildcat ready for Spring, I've decided to use the bugeted funds for repairs other than re-coring the heater core and sourcing/repairing the manual heater valve (frozen). I'll save that job for next winter's down time. I've removed the brittle factory hoses and and valve and fashioned a loop, using new hose material, between the water pump's outlet and return nipples.

Are there any problems inherent in running this set-up over the summer and restoring the heater at the end of the year as described? Is there a better or "cleaner" way? Can the outlet/inlet nipples be capped? Are there cooling issues that might occur related to the change in circulation? Dying to fire up the rebuilt carb.

Thanks to all,

Jim

BCA 43102

That should work-seen many such over the years-good luck. Dan Mpls. Mn.

That should work-seen many such over the years-good luck. Dan Mpls. Mn.

Thanks Dan. Based upon the the number of views/replies it doesn't it looks like all should be okay. Thanks again. Stay warm up there!

Jim

Seems you'd lose the extra cooling power the heater would provide if you should overheat.

When I got my '64 Riviera, both the water pump and the heater core had been looped because of a missing control valve. I never had any overheating problems running it that way. Just make sure that the rest of your cooing system is in good shape.

Ed

Ed,

Similar story. The old gent who had the WC had let a lot of repairs go toward the end. Upon delivery, the control valve was frozen with evidence of coolant on the passenger floor. Still had the brittle original hoses and they were looped and clamped for quite a while. A leak had occured at the hose retainer on the passenger side valve cover and had gone unattended for quite some time, causing unsightly mess under the hood. Repairs so far: Rebuilt propeller shaft, rebuilt top motor/pump, rebuilt carb, recored radiator. ALL these were necessary before hitting the road before Spring.

Thanks for the interest!

Jim

I wouldn't cap the water pump connections.

Many times when I had a leaky heater, I would loop the heater hose to the water pump connections, Bypassing the heater.

I haven't dome that on my Buick. But, I did on my '66 Chev, '67 dodge, '77 Dodge, '03 Dodge.

Doesn't hurt a thing.

Seems you'd lose the extra cooling power the heater would provide if you should overheat.

When I got my '64 Riviera, both the water pump and the heater core had been looped because of a missing control valve. I never had any overheating problems running it that way. Just make sure that the rest of your cooing system is in good shape.

Ed

Ed,

Similar story. The old gent who had the WC had let a lot of repairs go toward the end. Upon delivery, the control valve was frozen with evidence of coolant on the passenger floor. Still had the brittle original hoses and they were looped and clamped for quite a while. A leak had occured at the hose retainer on the passenger side valve cover and had gone unattended for quite some time, causing unsightly mess under the hood. Repairs so far: Rebuilt propeller shaft, rebuilt top motor/pump, rebuilt carb, recored radiator. ALL these were necessary before hitting the road before Spring.

Thanks for the interest!

Jim

it's a temporary solution, absolutely. Like a spare tire, You'll want to get it properly repaired as soon as possible.