AD8

Hello, Where is the horn relay on a '55 88? Horn began working intermittently just the other day. When jumped hot from battery, horn works fine. Need to trouble shoot but previous owner monkeyed around with a lot of stuff on this car. Once relay is located and checked out, I will move to the steering head. Any sage wisdom is much appreciated. Thanks, AD8

The left-side motor mount on my '64 Wildcat let go over the weekend. From what I've observed, no anchoring points or bolts failed. The vulcanization seems to have given up. The front of the mount is realitively easy to access. However, the rear of the mount is nearly impossible to reach effectively. Not much help in the Chassis Manual. What is the procedure for replacement? I do not have an engine hoist, only jacks. Was hoping to pull the bolts, jack the engine slightly and slide the old one out, then slip the new one in (have been soaking bolts with PB Blaster). But that just sounds too easy. The last time this happend was on a '65 in 1972. No recollection as to how Dad fixed the problem. Any input or commentary would be much appreciated. Thanks to all, Jim BCA 43102

Quick Question: My 50 year old 401 has 75,000 miles on the clock. After a new prop. shaft, radiator, carb rebuild, and numerous other repairs and replaced parts - before hitting the road come Spring, how much urgency should I place on replacing the the stock timing cam sprocket with a new steel set to protect against the old plastic coating deteriorating and jumping time? How commmon is this occurance in an engine of my vintage and mileage? Thanks to all. Jim BCA 43102

Ed, Similar story. The old gent who had the WC had let a lot of repairs go toward the end. Upon delivery, the control valve was frozen with evidence of coolant on the passenger floor. Still had the brittle original hoses and they were looped and clamped for quite a while. A leak had occured at the hose retainer on the passenger side valve cover and had gone unattended for quite some time, causing unsightly mess under the hood. Repairs so far: Rebuilt propeller shaft, rebuilt top motor/pump, rebuilt carb, recored radiator. ALL these were necessary before hitting the road before Spring. Thanks for the interest! Jim

Thanks Dan. Based upon the the number of views/replies it doesn't it looks like all should be okay. Thanks again. Stay warm up there! Jim

The 50 year old, one-owner needs something new every day. While tending to other needs in getting the Wildcat ready for Spring, I've decided to use the bugeted funds for repairs other than re-coring the heater core and sourcing/repairing the manual heater valve (frozen). I'll save that job for next winter's down time. I've removed the brittle factory hoses and and valve and fashioned a loop, using new hose material, between the water pump's outlet and return nipples. Are there any problems inherent in running this set-up over the summer and restoring the heater at the end of the year as described? Is there a better or "cleaner" way? Can the outlet/inlet nipples be capped? Are there cooling issues that might occur related to the change in circulation? Dying to fire up the rebuilt carb. Thanks to all, Jim BCA 43102

WC65, Carbking, Koala - Thank you for your input. I have have the choke tube and insulation for the assembly. It was removed at the repair (described earlier) to show what remained of the tube at the manifold. I suppose my question has been answered and can best be described as a "tube in a tube" inside the manifold. The inner supplying heat while the outer prevents exaust from being sent to the choke. Using Koala's technique I should be able to tell if damage has occured within the manifold, though carbon inside the choke indicates it is so. If I am able to loosen and remove the remaining tube from the manifold, are the replacement choke tube assemblies, such as offered by CARS, complete? Mostly concerned with restoring the function within the manifold. I have seen other varieties of aftermarket universal heat stoves that attach externally to the manifold but would rather return original design. Thanks to all and a Merry Christmas! Jim

I have read with great interest the replies to my various questions as my project unfolds. Last weekend I chased many old threads relating to heat stoves, automatic chokes and related topics and have learned much along the way. However; I have one question that was not directly answered. I received the car with a home repair on the choke tube. The tube rusted and broke (assumed) leaving a nipple protruding from the manifold about 1" or so long (see photo). The former owner fabricated an elbow out of tubing with a larger inside diameter to slip over the remaining original tube leading to the choke and the nipple sticking out of the exhaust manifold. He made the joints with aluminum HVAC tape. Not the best but it was holding when I took delivery and the choke functioned, though the repair joints leaked and the choke was pretty dirty. I took a stiff wire, smaller than the choke tube ID, and inserted it it into the broken nipple. I expected to bottom out on the inside wall of the manifold, opposite the point of entry but was only allowed a couple inches before the wire was stopped. The exhuast heats the air in the choke tube which is drawn into the choke by vacuum and relaxes the coil, slowly closing the choke. The question: Is the tube from the manifold simply an open route from inside the manifold up to the choke? It doesn't make sense that the engineers would design raw exhaust up the pipe to foul the choke. That's the question I could never answer. What is the original function of the automatic choke; how is it supposed to work? What is indide the manifold? There must have been a way that air is heated without drawing exhaust with it. I know, probably simple but I couldn't find the answer in the manuals and had to ask. Thanks, Jim BCA 43102

Thanks to all who commented. I have already resolved several issues and decided my next task. For the price, the Dorman Heat Stove repair kit is well worth picking up, even if it's just for experimentation. Thanks again, Jim

Bulldog and Jon, Thanks for your input. Sorry for late reply. Need to confirm my application requires s.s. baffle and gasket. I have attached photo of gasket removed from manifold. It appears to have a metallic element in it's construction. I need to verify if this a baffle, as discussed. What determines determines the need for s.s. baffle? Also need opinion and comment on the following: 1. It has been reccommened that I tap and plug the holes at both ends of the heat channel in the intake manifold under the carb. Reason: As this function was designed to reduce icing during humid, low temperature situations, it is no longer applicable for a car that is only driven in warm, optimal weather conditions. It will increase overall performance. 2. The heat stove in the exhaust manifold appears to have failed as evidenced by build-up inside the choke. How difficult is removal/replacement of this part, or would an electric choke be the easier/better/smarter solutuion? If electric choke; optimal power source, wiper motor? 3. Were the plates on these carbs steel or aluminum, or both. Mine does not appear to be aluminum. I am attempting to prepare for the reinstallation of the carb and I keep coming up with more questions. Thanks, Jim

Hi All, I have the carburetor pulled and ready to drop-off to be rebuilt ('64 401 w/4GC, 7024040). Meantime, I need to clean the intake and get a new gasket. I have heard from a hi-perf acquaintance that the best gasket isn't a gasket at all but a squeeze tube type material. It's been a while since I've monkeyed with fuel/air issues. Other than stock parts, I would like to know of any modern replacements or newer technology that would be superior to the stock gasket. Also, what best to clean and prep intake manifold, carb cleaner good enough? You know, while I'm asking, is there anything special I should ask the rebuild tech to do or inspect or change while rebuilding? Thanks, Jim BCA 43102

Thank you Ted, in my haste it slipped my mind. It is unfortunate, however, that we in this hobby support and generously assist eachother with technical support and guidance but a simple nod toward a service supplier whom others might view favorably, or not, is a forbidden zone. I understand the various forums could easily devolve into nothing more than a battle zone of opinions but this the very type of helpful guidance that is critical when it comes to risking hundreds or thousands of dollars. I apologize for the error. I will continue my research by word-of-mouth. Thanks again, AD8

Hi, I have several carburetors which need to be repaired/rebuilt. Hal at The Classic Preservation Coalition has been reccommended to me. Do other members agree? Thanks to all, AD8

Tough to find. Hope someone has a good spare. Horn relay is GM part no. 1366197, made by Littlefuse and so stamped on cover. Also need good rear speaker grill, non-dented. Thanks, Jim BCA 43102 jimc@midlandproducts.com

New fly in the ointment. While returning home from a small cruise-in last night (the weather in chicago has been beautiful!),I lost the horn. The original relay has failed. It's made by littlefuse and I know they're hard to come by. Anyone know the going rate and odds of finding one? Short of that, are there any reasonable substitutes that do not require mods? Thanks, Jim

I agree; summer driving is sometimes uncomfortable. And I will enjoy her as long as I can! In my opinion, this model and year looks better in a 2 door hardtop than convertible. But an open-top drive in the country on a beautiful Autumn afternoon or watching fireworks on Independence Day are memories made for a classic Buick convertible. And living in Chicago; these events are cherished as our driving season is short compared to more moderate regions.

Thanks John, that's nice to hear every once in a while when the task list and part costs never seem to have an end. Jim

What fluid was provided from the factory when vehicle was new? If the change is made to ATF, is there a problem/risk of reaction between the two fluids, given that all existing fluid (assuming it's brake fluid) cannot be completely removed from the lines and rams? Since I can find no information in the chassis manual regarding convertible tops, components, etc... Can it be found in the body maunual? Thanks, Jim

P.S. Haven't had much time for photos. Thought someone might to see a picture. This is after radiator, tranny lines and d-shaft install. Fresh off the blocka and ready for a drive. - Jim

Next on the hit list: The faulty convertible top motor. Able to lower top but difficulty returning to covered cabin position. Suspect problem partially due to fluid loss. Here it is out of car and ready for inspection at Midwest Remanufacturing to see if this original part can be saved. The former owner was well aware of the problems as evidenced by the paper towels and aluminum foil (?) found cleverly packed around the unit to contain leaking. After cracking open the motor/pump (below) the crud created by fluid leaking across the halves internally is obvious. The good news; it can be repaired, saving the cost of a new unit and keeping a 50 year old part original to the car. Here's a question: Fluid in lines and reservoir is colorless and clear. Can find no specification in chassis manual. Believe it to be brake fluid. Can anyone comment on this? All for now and thanks for the interest. Jim BCA 43102

Well that settles that. After the photos, advice and views researched online, it looks like the top is fuctioning normally, given the definition that has of "normal" that has been established here. Thanks 1sw63 for the final word. After being down the same path and having more than one shop affirm your top was not operating improperly, I'm satisafied. Jim

Absolutely! But as a passenger. First test after coming down off the stands was promised to a friend and hobbyist who offered to help with the shaft and stayed for the rest of the chores. His comment: " Man it sure drives like a Buick now!" Thanks for the interest, Jim BCA 43102 '65 Wildcat first car '69 Wildcat '72 Riviera '70 Rivera '69 225 con. '64 Wildcat conv. current

Update: New shaft, radiator, trans line all installed. No leaks, no squeaks. Next month: Pull top motor for rebuild, pull heater core for recore. Jim BCA 43102

I will be replacing the drive shaft in my '64 Wildcat tomorrow. The chassis manual is ordered but overdue. Are there torque specifications for the u-bolts connecting the shaft to the yoke and for the carrier bearing support bolts? Also, wanted to replace u-bolts but have had bad luck finding correct size. I will use original but where is a reliable source for replacement? What is correct weight for rear end fluid? Thanks a million, Jim